Hey guy's, new to the club, happy to be here.
So I've recently gotten out of the 240/nissan game and gone toyota. So please go easy on me haha.
I just bought an 87 sr5, a 20v silver top, a T50 Gts tranny, the Tweaked harness and a Gts rear end. I thought it would be a pretty easy swap, but now I'm starting to get a little overwhelmed.... What type of issues am I going to run into to so I can start planing ahead.
From what I understand the T50 Gts tranny will bolt up without issue to the 20v correct?
Will I have to do any modding to the dash harness?
Will I be able to run the sr5 break booster? What about the clutch slave cylinder?
Will I be able to run the sr5 fuel lines?
Will Gts rear end just bolt in once I take the sr5 out?
I also plan on running open itb's, so I know I need the blacktop ecu and a map sensor off a 94 corolla.
Please guys, drop the knowledge on my ass haha I need all the help I can get.
Thank you,
Am I in too deep? (Sr5 20v swap)
Re: Am I in too deep? (Sr5 20v swap)
- Tranny will bolt up no problem. One bolt will not work on one reinforcement, but that's fine. No one that I know of yet has had this fail and it carries very little stress.
- If you have the Tweak harness it should just be plug n' play, as far as I know. You may have to do some extra wiring to accomodate the power for the fuel pump, but that should be easy since (I believe anyways) the tweak'd harness has it's own fuel relays. Print out the 86 electrical manual for your year and read it carefully.
- Brake booster and clutch slave are identical (as far as I know). Should only be proportioning valve that has to change.
- You will need a new fuel feed line, you can use basic rubber EFI hosing though, 3/8" will be fine. Get the right clamps for it and replace the stock filter with another filter that uses clamps, I use a Ford filter and it works fine, no leaks. I use the old feed/return lines for my evap and return respectively, I left the old evap line just hanging there. It's redundant and won't hurt anything just having it there. Just ziptie the new hosing tight to the old lines and use those zips liberally, a 5C zip is cheaper than leaking gas and having a broken down car because your fuel line has a hole in it from the driveshaft.
- The GTS rear end bolts right on, if you can find it source a GTS driveshaft as well, it's a larger diameter and will be stronger. Also buy an LSD, stock or otherwise, seriously you will thank me.
As another tip, DO NOT buy the OBX tri-Y unless you are willing to deal with having to have it modified and having a manual rack swap. For your 20V swap source a stock exhaust or the cheaper, basic OBX header as they seem to fit fine from what I hear.
Good luck dude, enjoy your Hachi.
- If you have the Tweak harness it should just be plug n' play, as far as I know. You may have to do some extra wiring to accomodate the power for the fuel pump, but that should be easy since (I believe anyways) the tweak'd harness has it's own fuel relays. Print out the 86 electrical manual for your year and read it carefully.
- Brake booster and clutch slave are identical (as far as I know). Should only be proportioning valve that has to change.
- You will need a new fuel feed line, you can use basic rubber EFI hosing though, 3/8" will be fine. Get the right clamps for it and replace the stock filter with another filter that uses clamps, I use a Ford filter and it works fine, no leaks. I use the old feed/return lines for my evap and return respectively, I left the old evap line just hanging there. It's redundant and won't hurt anything just having it there. Just ziptie the new hosing tight to the old lines and use those zips liberally, a 5C zip is cheaper than leaking gas and having a broken down car because your fuel line has a hole in it from the driveshaft.
- The GTS rear end bolts right on, if you can find it source a GTS driveshaft as well, it's a larger diameter and will be stronger. Also buy an LSD, stock or otherwise, seriously you will thank me.
As another tip, DO NOT buy the OBX tri-Y unless you are willing to deal with having to have it modified and having a manual rack swap. For your 20V swap source a stock exhaust or the cheaper, basic OBX header as they seem to fit fine from what I hear.
Good luck dude, enjoy your Hachi.
1984 SR5-GTS 20V ST/BT coupe.
- Stance GR+ Coilovers
- Mishimoto Cooling
- T3 adjustable 4-bar, Panhard, traction brackets, tension rods
- T3 Short shift
- Manual rack conversion
- Blacktop electronics
- Stance GR+ Coilovers
- Mishimoto Cooling
- T3 adjustable 4-bar, Panhard, traction brackets, tension rods
- T3 Short shift
- Manual rack conversion
- Blacktop electronics
Re: Am I in too deep? (Sr5 20v swap)
Take a look at thisviewtopic.php?f=28&t=4906
Read the sr5 to gts thread, link is provided im my diy. Then read my 20v swap diy. Sounds like youre pretty close
Brake booster is fine, clutch slave is different. Proportioning valve was mentioned above, thats for brakes, you need a gts valve for a gts rear.
Check this out for converting sr5 fuel lines to gts
http://ectoyotas.com/%20forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1344
haha cali...i got one of your 86's and you're not getting it back.
My turd of an 86
20v swapped 86 write-up
My turd of an 86
20v swapped 86 write-up
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ALLHEARTdrift
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2013 3:48 pm
Re: Am I in too deep? (Sr5 20v swap)
morgan wrote::? Take a look at this
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=4906
Read the sr5 to gts thread, link is provided im my diy. Then read my 20v swap diy. Sounds like youre pretty close
Brake booster is fine, clutch slave is different. Proportioning valve was mentioned above, thats for brakes, you need a gts valve for a gts rear.
Check this out for converting sr5 fuel lines to gts
http://ectoyotas.com/%20forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1344
Thank you brother. Very helpful! Toyota people are good people.
-
ALLHEARTdrift
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2013 3:48 pm
Re: Am I in too deep? (Sr5 20v swap)
Army Fork wrote:- Tranny will bolt up no problem. One bolt will not work on one reinforcement, but that's fine. No one that I know of yet has had this fail and it carries very little stress.
- If you have the Tweak harness it should just be plug n' play, as far as I know. You may have to do some extra wiring to accomodate the power for the fuel pump, but that should be easy since (I believe anyways) the tweak'd harness has it's own fuel relays. Print out the 86 electrical manual for your year and read it carefully.
- Brake booster and clutch slave are identical (as far as I know). Should only be proportioning valve that has to change.
- You will need a new fuel feed line, you can use basic rubber EFI hosing though, 3/8" will be fine. Get the right clamps for it and replace the stock filter with another filter that uses clamps, I use a Ford filter and it works fine, no leaks. I use the old feed/return lines for my evap and return respectively, I left the old evap line just hanging there. It's redundant and won't hurt anything just having it there. Just ziptie the new hosing tight to the old lines and use those zips liberally, a 5C zip is cheaper than leaking gas and having a broken down car because your fuel line has a hole in it from the driveshaft.
- The GTS rear end bolts right on, if you can find it source a GTS driveshaft as well, it's a larger diameter and will be stronger. Also buy an LSD, stock or otherwise, seriously you will thank me.
As another tip, DO NOT buy the OBX tri-Y unless you are willing to deal with having to have it modified and having a manual rack swap. For your 20V swap source a stock exhaust or the cheaper, basic OBX header as they seem to fit fine from what I hear.
Good luck dude, enjoy your Hachi.
Thank you kind sir for all the help, really thankful. I can't wait to finish this thing. Gonna be amazing!