![Image](http://i.imgur.com/EvIB2dil.jpg)
![Image](http://i.imgur.com/QuIwpcDl.jpg)
Part number: 19100-16080
![Image](http://i.imgur.com/zFfs5V0l.jpg)
And it has the 24+4 tooth gear setup that I was looking for.
![Image](http://i.imgur.com/1eQFuO4l.jpg)
Cost: $72.78
Shipping: $46.87 via EMS
Total Cost: ~$120
On the 13BT motor which I am using as an example, the I have found to work
well is around 24ms. Others may find values that differ, so use whatever works best.
jondee86 wrote:BTW, your engine sounded pretty crisp when you were goosing it up in your vid![]()
jondee86 wrote:In reality the valve does not "pulse" as providing that the frequency of the PWM
signal is high enough, it is seen by the valve as a simple variable voltage supply.
aceforever wrote:I think I figured out the hunting. I think it's because I set the cold open position
too high. I'll have to keep on adjusting it until it's just right.
aceforever wrote:Today I took the car in for an alignment and while I was able to get a lower
negative degree camber, the camber plate settings are still polar opposites.
jondee86 wrote:Looking at the procedures in manual (which are a bit cumbersome) I see that
there is a Cold Min Position. This one appears to set the minimum position
to which the BAC will close while the engine temp is below the selected min temp.
Setting the Cold Min Position to a couple of % below the desired cold idle % open
should act as a "stall saver" by preventing the BAC from overshooting the target
cold idle percentage open. At least that is how I think it should work. And yes,
as you are setting up a closed loop idle control system, it will take a fair amount
of trial and error to get it working like a factory ECU.
jondee86 wrote:It could be a suspension component, or it could be the chassis or inner guard. If
there are no telltale signs of damage, it may be be more trouble than it is worth
to track down the cause. Your car should now drive straight without any tendency
to pull left or right, and turn in pretty goodThe downside if there is one, will
be a little more wear on the inner edge of the front tires, and maybe a bit of
"tramlining" over longitudinal ridges in the road.
aceforever wrote: Today I had to crank it three times to get it started.
jondee86 wrote:Old school technology at its best !!
aceforever wrote: Perhaps I need additional air during cranking.
aceforever wrote:Went to another meet with some of my FRS/BRZ friends too.
jondee86 wrote:I haven't checked the manual, but you want your ISCV to drive all the way open
while the engine is cranking. Maybe there is a control for this ? Once the engine
fires it should then close to whatever setting you have chosen for cold start.
jondee86 wrote:Likewise, there should be a setting for adding extra fuel while cranking. The
engine needs a lot of extra fuel and air when cranking, and that was the function
of the thermostatic air valve and cold start injector on the 16V 4AGE's. You need
to be able to duplicate those conditions for a one crank start.
EDIT: Just FYI I hooked my WBO2 up and my engine (stock smallport) starting cold
from around 12-13 degC idled at 11.2 AFR. When warmed up it idles at 13.5 AFR.
So that confirms that 16V engines like to idle a bit lower than stoich.
jondee86 wrote:PS: Must get my car cam working next time I go for a drive
strmrdr23 wrote:was this the FT86 Club cruise on 4/10 or something? i saw that. i wanna go to the next one, i hope.
aceforever wrote:Yeah, I've found that and it's the fuel prime map and the post-start enrichment map.
I'll try to adjust them. I'll try to match those numbers, but 11.2 AFR seems a bit too rich
right? I'm currently idling at 13 AFR cold then 14.7 warm.
jondee86 wrote:Mud flaps look good... wonder if they do them with other lettering ?
jondee86 wrote:PS: Must get my car cam working next time I go for a drive
BoostJunky wrote:I didn't rear the whole thread but did you get the haltech running? I'm curious if youre tuning via VE? Mine will not start unless I select Injection time.
jondee86 wrote:EDIT: These should be public now. Found one from a while back so I put that up
as well. Engine noise drowns out the music... but I can live with that![]()
Deuce Cam wrote:I also have a set of those same mudflaps from AUS on ebay. I got the ones that have the 'TOYOTA' emblem. They are nice, but I have 2 gripes: the emblems aren't quite level with the ground when installed, and they are made out of hard plastic so there's no give like the oem rubber flaps.
aceforever wrote:BoostJunky wrote:I didn't rear the whole thread but did you get the haltech running? I'm curious if youre tuning via VE? Mine will not start unless I select Injection time.
I don't see a VE option at all on my E6X, what model do you have?
BoostJunky wrote:PS500. Are you using injection pulse? I'm curious how it runs on yours. I cannot find a way to smooth out the throttle response, it's sounds like its out of breathe when I blip the throttles at idle and its very jerky when I press/let go of the pedal quickly while driving.