Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

[aceforever]

The PO said it's a stock GTS unit with LSD. It would be more preferable to have a lower ratio back there too though.

[aceforever]

Today I jacked up the car from the rear for the first time. The aftermarket exhaust forces me to jack it up by the rear diff housing instead of the side otherwise the rear axles would hit it.

I asked around for the safest way I could do this since I'm terribly afraid that the car might fall on me as there are no ebrakes for the front wheels. I bought myself some wheel chocks. In addition to the jack stands, I felt more at ease.



I pulled out the speedometer casing and gear all together and had something to catch the transmission oil dripping out.



You can definitely see where the starts of the teeth are. It was kind of hard to see where starting position was, however luckily there was a strand of hair or nylon (from the plastic driven gear) on one of the teeth starts. So I used that as my reference point.

I count 6, how about you?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viHeodKxY60

Looks like I'll need a 22 or 23 6 driven gear. But at this point any gear that was made for the 6 teeth worm gear would work for me. Maybe I'll just get the 20 6 that the SR-5 comes with and call it a day.

[aceforever]

I might have found some 22/6 driven gear that might work. Are these parts from other models interchangeable?

Looks like they might have different casing and securing types:



It's not clear which part is which

33403-19175
Description:
SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN GEAR (MTM) (COROLLA (KE30),50; CANADA
COROLLA (KE30); K50 TYPE TRANSMISSION
COROLLA (TE51); LB; SR-5 TYPE,GLX TYPE)

33403-19085
Description
SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN GEAR (MTM) (COROLLA (KE30),50; CANADA
COROLLA (KE30); K50 TYPE TRANSMISSION
COROLLA (TE37),51; SR-5 TYPE,GLX TYPE
COROLLA (TE51); LB; SR-5 TYPE,GLX TYPE
KE3#,50)

[aceforever]

Looking at the Japanese Trueno GTV and GT-APEX models

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_198305 ... _3304.html
They list:

33403 GEAR SUB-ASSY, SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN (MTM)
33403-19135 歯数=19, マーク 19:34, N=19 1 $30.09
33403-19175 N=22 1 $30.09

The N=19 is definitely the one for the N=5 worm gear.
I'm guessing the N=22 is the one for the N=6 worm gear.

Looking at the transmission part list:
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_198305 ... _3305.html

33481 GEAR, SPEEDOMETER DRIVE (MTM)
33481-12030 N=5 1 $30.52
33481-14040 N=6 1 $30.52

It looks like in Japan, they use either N=5 or N=6. Why? No idea. Seems like a pain if you don't know what you started out with.

Since the rear diff is always 4.3 in stock form, I'm guessing the driven gear 33403-19175 is 22/6

41201 FINAL GEAR KIT, DIFFERENTIAL, REAR
41201-29207 FINAL GEAR RATIO=43:10=4.300 1 $896.11

[jondee86]

But at this point any gear that was made for the 6 teeth worm gear would work
for me. Maybe I'll just get the 20 6 that the SR-5 comes with and call it a day.

That ^^^^ or perhaps this vvvv



Oh yeah, I counted six starts also.

Cheers... jondee86

[YoShImUrA]

195/50R15 is near the same diameter as 185/60R14 which is the stock tire size. So you're good on that.


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[aceforever]

Thanks for confirming jondee86. I'm going to try ordering 33403-19175 and report back. I guess I'll use my cellphone in the mean time

Also, cool YoShImUrA! That's great to know.

About tires, I was thinking of picking up a spare wheel/tire from the junkyard. Is it not recommended? Anything I should look out for other than tire condition and age? Also would any 4 hole wheel work? I'm guessing there might be different offsets.

[YoShImUrA]

4x114.3 and try to get around 14 or 15", 5 to 8J wide, and an offset between +0 and +25, more or less

Easier said than done, though... Best bet is to try to source an original cookie tire, as the regulars don't fit flush with the floor, unless they're quite thin or else you don't have the cardboard floor with the small black plastic brackets that hold on the cookie tire for weight support.


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[aceforever]

I'm sorry, what do those numbers mean? I'm not familiar with wheel or is it tire sizes?

[YoShImUrA]

4x114.3 is the bolt pattern, or the distance between the studs on the hub.

14 and 15 inch is the rim diameter.

5-8J is the width of the rim

Offset is a measure of this. Sorry but I think if I try to put this into words I'll make it more confusing:




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[aceforever]

Oh wow thanks YoShImUrA! That was very helpful!

[aceforever]

Another question, what are those small cone filters called? The one that is on the valve cover. I'm thinking of going with that for now just to keep the dust out before I do some more research on getting a catch can system.

EDIT:
Seems like this might work? It's $28
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0408

A catch can varies from $23 to $120
http://www.amazon.com/Godspeed-Universa ... =catch+can
http://www.amazon.com/CUSCO-Subaru-Impr ... +catch+can

Any advice on these things?

[jondee86]

Just to make things clear...



If the wheel has a tire mounted, the size will be on the sidewall e.g. 185/60-14. In this
example 185mm is the tread width, 60 is the profile and 14" is the rim diameter. If the
rim does not have a tire mounted, measure inside the rim as shown, and add a small
amount on for the thickness of the metal. Rim diameters will be in full inches (14, 15 etc).

The 4 x 114.3mm (4 x 4.5") PCD bolt pattern is measured between the centers of opposite
bolts. And you will find this bolt pattern on most old RWD Toyotas. As mentioned, the
wheel well does not accommodate a very wide wheel, so better to locate an original steel
wheel or skinny alloy wheel from an early Corolla. Any wheel that has a serviceable tire
mounted will do... consider it the equivalent of a "spacesaver" type spare wheel

Cheers... jondee86

[aceforever]

Thanks for all the help! I think I have enough to go on to try to find a spare.
I'm also hoping I can find a washer fluid motor and container as the OEM one will not fit with the ITB and filters at the junk yard tomorrow.

I've been trying to figure this out and I couldn't find instructions online or in the manual about. How do you take the door panels off? I need to replace my side-view mirrors as the small F1 style ones are not very helpful in a daily-able car.

[jondee86]

You shouldn't have to take the door panels off if the mirrors are attached
in a similar fashion to the OEM mirrors...



This pic shows manually adjusted mirrors, and I imagine power mirrors are
attached in the same way. Of course, if you were planning to install power
mirrors, you would need to remove the door panels to run the wiring

Cheers... jondee86

[aceforever]

I do have power mirrors and need to remove the door panels.

Is there another manual for interior pieces that I'm missing?

[jondee86]

Yes.... this one... http://files.aeu86.org/manuals/AE86Manual.pdf

Page # 257 This is not for the USDM AE86, but you should find that
most of the information you need is in there.

Cheers... jondee86

[YoShImUrA]

D'oh! Sorry about the funny naming for the spacesaver tires. We call them cookie tires here in Spain due to their size and shape.


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[aceforever]

Thanks jondee86. I must have missed it when I was scrolling through that manual.

Haha YoShImUrA, cookie tires does make sense too! Now I want some cookies!

---

Went to the junkyard today.


Searched everywhere but couldn't find wheel/tire combo that wasn't totally bald or rusty. Apparently they take any spare tires and weld them to make car stands! So I'll have to look else where. Did have some luck with the washer fluid reservoir and pump though.

I hope the following helps anyone who needs to fit a washer fluid reservoir when ITBs are in the way on a LHD AE86.

---

Donor vehicle was a 1987-92 Toyota Corolla E90. There were 3 on the yard.


Closer look at the reservoir and pump.


All washed up.

The wire colors were the same as the AE86's washer fluid wires. The length of the washer fluid plumbing was just enough.

I made sure the pump worked at the junk yard by carrying a bottle of water and jumping the wires via my homemade 12V battery.

Here's a final check before going into the car. Surprisingly the pump motor works regardless of polarity. It does seem like going one way better though.


The wiring harness expects the washer fluid reservoir right next to the right strut tower. I had to cut and extend the wires.


Both the washer fluid and the wiring routes underneath the quarter panel neatly. Here's a picture of just the washer fluid tube.


Here's the engine bay with everything hooked up.


Closer look. As you can tell the bottle is a bit tilted because there was not a screw hole at the ideal spot. I didn't want to drill a hole and tap it so I'll deal with the slant.


Moment of truth...


Success! All and all took around 6 hours for the whole project.

[jondee86]

Ahhh... I see you are starting to savor the aroma of used engine oil and old cars
I have spent countless hours over the years hunting for various bits and pieces that
can be adapted to fit on my car. Everything from wheels to lug nuts, weather seals and
those little plastic clips that always seem to get broken. I call it junkyard therapy

You need to get yourself something like this if you are planning to take the door
panels off. Levering with a screwdriver is liable to just pull the holding clips out of
the panel. A tool like this lets you lift both sides of the clip which works better.



Cheers... jondee86

[aceforever]

It's pretty awesome when things that weren't made for your car can connect up and work.

I like the challenge. Although, an SR-5 washer reservoir would probably work much better since it was designed to fit in that spot.

Seems like you and I could spend days at a junkyard

I'm waiting for the day an AE86 pops up so I can buy the pieces I'm missing at not crazy prices.

I do have a plastic version of that tool. A metal one would probably have more leverage though. Thanks for the tip!

[aceforever]

Just flushed the coolant today.

Each time, I let the engine warm up rev it every once in a while for 10 minutes.

Here are my results from left to right.


After 7 flushes, I'm getting a more clear liquid. Seems like I still have some more to go. I'll continue tomorrow.

[aceforever]

Visited a few yards to look for parts.

Found an AE86 SR-5 an hour's drive away. When I got there, most of front has been taken.


Luckily I was able to get the following:
Radiator Bushing,
Another VSV,
Antenna,
Blue cable controlling the heater control valve,
SR-5 water / coolant reservoir combo,
Also found a spare tire from a different car that fits. It was the right height and everything.


Also visited this AE92 GTS in a different yard 20 mins away today.



It has a small port and has most of the engine pieces in tact.

I took the following:
A/C Compressor and bracket + v belt + wiring, (took a long time)
Ignition module (only took it because it's a piece that is getting rarer and more expensive, in case I needed it later)
Valve Covers (was in better shape than mine, mine has a big dent on it)
Distributor

I've been playing the idea of installing AC on the car as it gets pretty hot around here in the summer. Perhaps I can take the hardlines, evap, drier, expansion valve from the AE86 SR-5 and use the compressor from the AE92 GTS to make a full ac system?

Anything else I should take from the car before it gets crushed?

[jondee86]

As I recall, when I swapped an AE92 smallport into my AE86, I don't think it
was possible to use the FWD A/C cradle with the RWD AE86 A/C compressor.
The RWD pulley set that I swapped onto the smallport has a different offset
to the FWD pulley set on the AE92. So the A/C compressor ended up being
a few mm out of line... maybe it would have worked if I had used the FWD
pulley set Only I wanted to use the OEM viscous drive cooling fan.

From memory I used the original AE86 A/C cradle and it lined up correctly.
So you might want to grab a 4AC A/C cradle if you don't already have one.

Cheers... jondee86

PS: Doesn't look like there was any rust in that SR5 !!!

[aceforever]

Using the FWD pulley set works really well.



Going counter clockwise the AE92 pulley set looked like this: crank pulley -> tension pulley -> a/c compressor -> power steering. I knew that since I don't have power steering and my steering rack can't work with power steering, I needed to use a smaller V Belt. So I took the Alternator/water pump belt on the other side of the AE92 and used that.

Test fitting:


Taking the compressor off for now but the bracket can stay.

I couldn't take a SR-5 AC bracket because the pulley on the bracket is made for a single V.


P.S. Yeah!! I wonder what the previous owner was like. It had a pretty funny bumper sticker, something like "Pray for the president!". It had an automatic transmission, so I couldn't get the speedometer driven gear!

P.S.S. Is there someone who can create the A/C hardlines? As I think the AE86 A/C hardlines to the compressor would not work. The ports on the FWD compressor is at a different location.

[jondee86]

Using the FWD pulley set works really well.

I think you got lucky there It looks like your engine is a FWD version as
it has the FWD crank pulley, so the offset will be correct for the AE92 cradle.

Best you find a A/C service and repair shop, as you will need one later on
when it comes time to evacuate, leak test and gas the system. They should
be able to make up/repair any hard lines you need.

Cheers... jondee86

[aceforever]

Wooo! Gotta love it when things luckily works. Ah, are the crank pulleys different for FWD and RWD? Does that mean aftermarket crank pulleys differ as well?

AE86
13470-16010

AE92
13470-16030

Seems like the AE86 style has two different diameters for the inner and outer pulley guides. AE92 style has two of the same. Is that right?

Thanks for the tip about the AC service/repair shop. I'll put that on the list of things to do! A/C is definitely not my highest priority, but when opportunity comes up, I'm not afraid to take it!

The SR-5 washer + coolant combo reservoir is great. It bolts right up even on a GT-S chassis. I'm guessing the holes were pre-drilled for both?


The SR-5 coolant overflow tank is the same displacement as the GT-S one.

The SR-5 washer fluid reservoir is a bit smaller than the E90/AE92 reservoir.

[jondee86]

Ah, are the crank pulleys different for FWD and RWD?

The RWD crank pulley is unique to the AE86 GTS. As you say, it has two different
pulley diameters, and the pulley offset is a few mm different from the FWD pulleys.
Enough to be noticeable if you mix and match. The 4AGZE has a stepped pulley
also, but the diameter is larger than the RWD pulley.

Aftermarket pulleys should be made correctly as RWD or FWD, single or double.

AFAIK for the USDM all AE86 body shells (either GTS or SR5) were made the same
to meet US safety standards. However in Japan it is said that the AE85 (equivalent
to the SR5) was of lighter construction than the AE86 (equivalent to the GTS). I have
not seen any hard evidence that this was so, but it is plausible given the higher power
and more sporting emphasis of the AE86.

Cheers... jondee86

[aceforever]

Thanks for confirming my guesses on the crank pulley.

I heard from the Previous owner that the SR-5 shells have less spot welds on the frame. I don't know if it's some rumor or what. Do you know about this?

[aceforever]

Just finished flushing the coolant once more. I tried to get the heater core hoses off, but they seem to be stuck on there. I'm not sure how to get it off. I even tried prying it off with a flat head screwdriver. It's pretty hard. I'll need to flush the heater core with the engine water pump.

I took off the blue heater valve cable off and was able to open the heater control valve manually. I'll have to replace the blue cable after I'm all done since that's what's actually seized. So I put the blower at full blast and let the engine idle. At first there were no hot fluids coming out of the heater core exit. The heater core inbound hose was super hot, however the exit was cold. I didn't think the heater core was that efficient in transferring heat as it's only a small radiator. I believed that the heater core was clogged. After a few minutes of idling, I was still getting no hot air in the cabin. I then proceeded to throttle the engine higher up hoping that higher engine RPM would cause the water pump to pump faster, thus unclogging the heater core. And to my amazement, that ended up working. After flushing the coolant once more, I noticed that the coolant dirtiness returned to something similar to flush #1 or 2. And also, there were less coolant flushed out. Perhaps some of the liquid is still in the heater core?

Sample liquid:



I also managed to trip the Heater Blower Circuit Breaker somehow. Perhaps it's because I was running the blower for too long? I was feeling up the Heater Relay and Ground point where the metal piece bolts up to the shell and they were very hot. Also the heater blower itself was pretty hot as well. Is this a sign of something? Perhaps the relay is bad? or is this normal?