AE86 Shocks & Springs etc Install HELP!

[idreamofdrifting]

Hey fellas, gonna tackle this project in a few days.
Here's what I'm going to install myself:

-KYB AGX Mr2/Camaro Short Strokes Shocks INSTALLED
-Swift Springs 8k/6k INSTALLED
-T3 Camber Plates INSTALLED
-T3 RCAs INSTALLED
-T3 Strut Tube Spacers (Casings Unshortened) INSTALLED
-T3 Traction Brackets
-T3 Panhard Bar
-T3 4 Links
-Cusco Rear Strut Tri-bar
-Megan C-Pillar Bar

Tools on hand:
-1/2 DeWalt Cordless Impact Wrench (effin' epic of an impact wrench for the money!)
-Extra long Husky Torque Wrench
-Spring Compressor
-2x Jackstands
-Various Toolbox stuff

This is the first time, I'm doing this.
All tips and tricks are welcome! Thanks!

[carbd7age]

The rear stuff is a breeze, you can do that drunk. The front isn't so hard, especially since you have an impact gun. The strut nut that's inside of the upper mount can be a pain if you don't have an impact. It's super helpful if you have a bench vise to hold stuff down. The gland nuts that hold the struts in the tubes are super-hella-dope-add-tight. Getcha a big old pipe wrench for them dudes.

[idreamofdrifting]

The rear stuff is a breeze, you can do that drunk. The front isn't so hard, especially since you have an impact gun. The strut nut that's inside of the upper mount can be a pain if you don't have an impact. It's super helpful if you have a bench vise to hold stuff down. The gland nuts that hold the struts in the tubes are super-hella-dope-add-tight. Getcha a big old pipe wrench for them dudes.

thx Eric, but ok so wait, so what size pipe wrench would I need to take out those inner gland nuts?

[mad_86]

For the gland nut
I was able to use a big set of plumbers pliers
And some PB blaster

[miswuevos]

let us know how that setup turn out!

[idreamofdrifting]

great tip on the pb blaster!

mos def keep u all posted on the setup!

Question:
are the spring compressors necessary for the rears?
and rear bump stops, do I need to shorten them?

[Jimmee1990]

Depends on the height of the rear springs, I would only ever cut off one of the three(?) sections on the rear bump stops though. Sounds like a reasonable setup though, are you running equal or enequal length t3 rear arms?

[idreamofdrifting]

Depends on the height of the rear springs, I would only ever cut off one of the three(?) sections on the rear bump stops though. Sounds like a reasonable setup though, are you running equal or enequal length t3 rear arms?

cool, it would sit pretty low so yeah thx for the tip at least one of three sections would be trimmed.
what do u mean equal unequal?

Adjustable T3 4 links, T3 lateral rod/Panhard bar is what i'll be rockin'

[gotzoom?]

A couple more things. Remove the pinion snubber. That's the bumpstop that bolts to the body directly above the rearend input flange. If you have trouble pulling the inserts out of the dront struts, use a small screwdriver to push the black seals down into the oil and the inserts will slide right out. If your brake lines thread through the tabs on the front struts, you can cut a small piece out of each one so that you can bend the tab and get the link through without disconnecting the brake lines. That will allow you to remove the strut from the car. I find it easiest to put the gland nut in a vice and turn the strut housing. If you leave the hub and rotor attached, you should get enough leverage that way. It's a good idea to use a spring compressor on the front springs, but you don't need it for the rear. Once you disconnect the rear swaybar and shocks, the rearend will drop down enough for you to pull the springs out.

[idreamofdrifting]

A couple more things. Remove the pinion snubber. That's the bumpstop that bolts to the body directly above the rearend input flange. If you have trouble pulling the inserts out of the dront struts, use a small screwdriver to push the black seals down into the oil and the inserts will slide right out. If your brake lines thread through the tabs on the front struts, you can cut a small piece out of each one so that you can bend the tab and get the link through without disconnecting the brake lines. That will allow you to remove the strut from the car. I find it easiest to put the gland nut in a vice and turn the strut housing. If you leave the hub and rotor attached, you should get enough leverage that way. It's a good idea to use a spring compressor on the front springs, but you don't need it for the rear. Once you disconnect the rear swaybar and shocks, the rearend will drop down enough for you to pull the springs out.

fantastic tips so far fellas!
in that case I'll start out with the rear then.

@gotzoom question: by pinion snubber did u mean the rubber bumpstops that has 3 sections directly above the rear springs?
the dront struts? u meant front struts right?

[gotzoom?]

If you follow the driveshaft where it meets the rearend and look up, you'll see the pinion snubber. It is there to stop the rearend from smashing into the body. When you run stiffer springs that lower the car, you don't need it and it will cause handling problems if the rearend hits it.

Yeah, spelling error. dront = front

[idreamofdrifting]

Update:

Got these out....



Started with the rear passenger side....


Loosened the 19mm lugnuts with the impact wrench (my new best friend!)
Jacked the car up...
Placed a jackstand...
Removed wheel...
Unbolted the 14mm top nuts of the oem rear strut....
Unbolted the 14mm bottom nut....causing the rear end to droop a little....
Pryed the oem shock out with a random bar...
Pushed down the drooping rear end and wiggled out the oem spring off the perch....
Trimmed one section off the bump stop....(a pain in the effin a$$!)
Top oem spring rubber mount was still in great condition, so I put it on top of the 6k rear swift spring, and a brand new oem rubber perch ....the old one was still ok but, I might as well replace it with a new one....
Placed the brand new top rubber bushings that came with the kyb agx's....
I screwed the bottom of the shock in place with the 14mm nut using the impact wrench....
Slowly jacked up the shock high enough so I can screw in the 14mm nuts on top in place using the impact wrench...
19mm + impact wrench should suffice for the lugnuts as you put the wheel back....
Remove jackstands....
Jack the 86 down....
19mm + long torque wrench should suffice for the lugnuts make sure the lugnuts are hella tight, while wheel is on the ground of course...
Rear passenger side is DONE!

Same steps for the rear driver side should do the trick!



honestly....these things are a pain!!!


the result....

OEM stock height.....



On 6k Swift Spring w/Kyb Agx short stroke shocks.....


OEM stock height...


On 6k Swift Spring w/Kyb Agx short stroke shocks....


sayōnara 27 year old oem springs & shocks....

[Jimmee1990]

Un-equal length rear trailing arms is what I meant. Unless you have equal length boxes welded in for the top arms, running rose jointed rear trailing arms is a really bad idea. The rear will just bind and snap oversteer, and stretches and tears the trailing arm mounts off the chassis.

[idreamofdrifting]

Un-equal length rear trailing arms is what I meant. Unless you have equal length boxes welded in for the top arms, running rose jointed rear trailing arms is a really bad idea. The rear will just bind and snap oversteer, and stretches and tears the trailing arm mounts off the chassis.

did u mean the 4 links and Panhard bar?

I have a set of T3 adjustable 4 links and a T3 adjustable panhard bar and T3 traction brackets....
I'll be installing afterwards....not gonna drive around till then.....

Speaking of....

How are you fellas removing your oem panhard bar and 4 links?
I tried to remove it but its on there tight, and an impact wrench can't get in there....
Help please?

[miswuevos]

Use some of extensions for the impact gun sir^

[idreamofdrifting]

Use some of extensions for the impact gun sir^

I mean theres no space for an impact wrench to fit.
The workspace is nearly non-existent....
Extension is not the problem, if anything I need a rather 17mm slim wrench to take out the panhard and 4 links

[carbd7age]

Yep they are hard to get to, 17mm wrench and a whole can of spinach.

[idreamofdrifting]

Yep they are hard to get to, 17mm wrench and a whole can of spinach.

yeah dem sumb*itches are tight as hell!
no choice but to pb blast it!

[BoRoYaSui]

Tips for the front suspension:

Loosen the the top shock nut while the car is on the ground and weighted. do not remove completely. if you dont have a impact and you cant remove it without spinning try using a rachet and hit it quickly with a hammer.

To loosen the bottom 17mm strut bolts rotate the steering wheel to position the strut where the bolts are easy to get too. It also helps to use the steering lock to prevent the strut from rotating while you losen them.

Sometimes it can be a bitch to put the strut and rcas back on. Save yourself the headache on fighting it and remove the strut rod. Make sure you mark the postion so you dont mess up the alignment when you put it back on.

[idreamofdrifting]

Tips for the front suspension:

Loosen the the top shock nut while the car is on the ground and weighted. do not remove completely. if you dont have a impact and you cant remove it without spinning try using a rachet and hit it quickly with a hammer.

To loosen the bottom 17mm strut bolts rotate the steering wheel to position the strut where the bolts are easy to get too. It also helps to use the steering lock to prevent the strut from rotating while you losen them.

Sometimes it can be a bitch to put the strut and rcas back on. Save yourself the headache on fighting it and remove the strut rod. Make sure you mark the postion so you dont mess up the alignment when you put it back on.

Thank you so much for all the tips fellas....
Kyb Agx Short Stroke Shocks, 8k/6k Swift Springs, T3 Camber Plates, Strut Tube Spacers, and RCAs have been installed!
A very SPECIAL THANKS to my friend who was instrumental in helping me get the front struts done!
You know who you are!

Still to do:
-T3 Panhard Bar
-T3 4 Links
-T3 Traction Brackets
-Cusco Rear Strut Tri-bar
-Megan C-pillar Bar