New TPS, TPS error gets back and is running me crazy

[onnaj]

I thought that because of the wrong insulators (make pictures later this day i hope) the injectors aren't installed properly in the hole. I think they might slide in a bit too far, or because the insulators are too loose it might leak through the insulators, causing fuel to drip in the hole at moments it isn't supposed to be.

I'm just brainstorming Going to the Toyota garage today and pick up the new insulators. So I'll post if that caused my problem.

[onnaj]

the insulators turned out to be fine. They get a bit wider because of mounting, that's make them look bigger

But the running rich stays, i'm getting really crazy about it.

I checked the exhaust and didn't discover any leaks at all. Going to recheck, but when it would leak this would be such a small hole it wouldn't make this big difference.

Today i installed 4 different injectors. Starting was really perfect after installing them but afterwards the engine started running on 3 cylinders. I had another 4 lying around and i've installed them, but i still have a huge power loss. I don't dare reving too much and give full throttle a lot cause i'm still in the break in period. Today i did a WOT once in the second gear till about 5500 rpm and it definitely don't feel like having 165 ponies under the hood.

What else can i look into? I'm almost out of ideas except trying a different ecu.

Thanks again.

[onnaj]

to be certain i've checked compression on all cylinders and it's just perfect.

Cylinder 1:


Cylinder 2:


Cylinder 3:


Cylinder 4:

[yoshimitsuspeed]

According to your O2 sensor tests the AFRs at least at idle sound okay.

This would be a perfect situation for my rent a wideband.
If I finish it would you be interested in renting it?
Say $20/day.
If so, do you have a toyota two bolt O2 or a screw in 02?

[onnaj]

That's a good offer but too bad I live in Holland

At idle it's okay the garage told me but at 3000 rpm it's running way too rich.

Can the iat also cause this? It's now just hanging in the motor compartment near the filter.
I used my 7afe mapsensor, maybe i should use another?

[yoshimitsuspeed]

Oh yea I forgot you were Hollandese.
Can you run a wire from your O2 output to the cabin and monitor AFRs while you drive? That would help a bit.

[onnaj]

Oh yea I forgot you were Hollandese.
Can you run a wire from your O2 output to the cabin and monitor AFRs while you drive? That would help a bit.

that shouldn't be a problem at all. it still should be between 0.1 and 0.8V or something like that?

Do you think the IAT 'hanging' around could be a cause?

[yoshimitsuspeed]

Oh yea I forgot you were Hollandese.
Can you run a wire from your O2 output to the cabin and monitor AFRs while you drive? That would help a bit.

that shouldn't be a problem at all. it still should be between 0.1 and 0.8V or something like that?

Do you think the IAT 'hanging' around could be a cause?

It should continue to bounce back and forth between high and low values. If it pegs high or pegs low while cruising that is not a good sign.

Oh yeah and I dobt the IAT would be a problem unless it's somewhere that is a drastically different temp than the intake air.

[jdm86gtz]

There was a thread on poor running 20Vs on the old site.
A lot of the problems stemmed from the STA starter signal wire to the ecu not connected.
Have you opened the ecu to look for leaking capacitors?

[onnaj]

It should continue to bounce back and forth between high and low values. If it pegs high or pegs low while cruising that is not a good sign.

Oh yeah and I dobt the IAT would be a problem unless it's somewhere that is a drastically different temp than the intake air

The IAT is near the air filter so that wouldn't be a great difference i think.

I measured the O2 values when driving and they bounce between somewhere 0.1 and 0.9 volts. Also when cruising at the same speed.

There was a thread on poor running 20Vs on the old site.
A lot of the problems stemmed from the STA starter signal wire to the ecu not connected.
Have you opened the ecu to look for leaking capacitors?

The STA is connected and gives 5V when cranking so that's okay.
We looked at the ECU but didn't find anything wrong. There was a little bit of rust/white spot on the right side of the ecu, but nothing was either touched or damaged.

Today i've noticed by coincidence that the ECU connector aren't really perfect. I was measuring the STA and disconnected the ECU connectors to put a wire in it. After the check was done the engine was running poorly and on 3 cylinders it seems. When i moved the wiring harness near the ecu it was running normal again. Touch it again and it was running poorly. So i've disconnected the connectors again and reconnect them, now it runs fine.

But i think my connectors aren't the best anymore. I think you can deliver new one, isn't it yoshimitsuspeed? How much would they be for all three including shipping to holland?

There's another thing i found out. It seems that the VVT isn't always working when it should. Sometimes i feel a little turbo and make the engine sound better, but most times it seems that it doesn't do anything only causing a loss of power. I've cleaned it and put 12V on it and it does work, while the engine starts to run rough when putting 12V on it. Somebody any idea of what can cause the VVT not always working? Maybe the special break in oil that's too thick?

[yoshimitsuspeed]

I don't have easy access to connectors.
I would try http://www.tweakdperformance.com/services.html and http://www.wiregapinc.com/.

Bad connections would be my main thought for the VVT as well. I doubt and reasonable oil would cause this.

[onnaj]

I found a site in holland which do sell the connectors.

So that's what i'm going to do first. I still have some backfires, but just maybe once or twice a week and the starting problem is solved. No more problems during warms starts.

Did a run in the second gear yesterday too about 6500 rpm and the VVT was definitely there. Feel pretty quick, but i didn't dear to rev it further cause of my break in period. I think VVT won't activate beneath 2500 rpm?

EDIT: I checked my valve clearances yesterday and most of them were out of spec. Can too loose valves also cause the running rich, backfires, some loss of power?