"nostalgia"
- onelungderryl
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:20 pm
"nostalgia"
First off I apologize for the lack of detail. My old thread went down with the site and I'm too lazy to salvage it. So here's some pictures with a little bit of detail.
August 1st, 2008 I picked up my 1985 Toyota Corolla GT-S off the original owner for $1150. I found it on craigslist listed as a "TOYOTA CARROLA"
The car had 304,xxx miles, original paint, led windshield washer squirters, alarm, and keyless entry. I later found out on the drive home that it had 7 quarts of oil in the engine and then eventually developed a rod knock. So I swapped all my parts from my coupe which had been totaled from being rear ended.
Anyways heres the build in order (sorta). You'll notice I go from jdm back to usdm, then back to jdm, then usdm, and finally to where we are today cby front, jdm rear.
ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch installed in 2009. It's been on 3 engine's, through daily driving, and drift days (STILL IN THE CAR TO THIS DAY!)
Got some centerlines for it
Did the whole dry ice and acetone thing put back in the full interior after.
Bought a blacktop from a Canadian importer and it was junk
Got a silvertop from a local importer.
SS works waterline
Pulled my 16 valve out.
20 valve in getting wired
Got fender flares, jdm bumpers.
Decided I didn't like how it all looked. Sold the wheels, bumpers, and the kit I had and got some Hoshino G5's. Went drifting at Thunderhill
Cleaned the engine bay up.
Installed a dash cap.
Replaced my wornout kyb agx combo for stance, modified my obx exhaust
Traded my digital gauge cluster to a friend for work on some door bars
Drifting at the fatlace event 2010
Jerry (jzxseven on here) took some amazing photos of my car at the old alameda naval base.
Went back to JDM.
Got a rs-yasu induction box and sold it
Built a spool and 4.77 ring and pinion
Back to usdm bumpers and drifted at asb 2011. Must go back to horse thief mile..
Had my 15x7.5 -1 turned into a 15x9 -22
Other events. Mostly sonoma drift (local track)
Crashed car street drifting, then crashed car at sonoma. Had to have my fronts rebarreled to a 15x8 -23 since they didn't do half size barrels (going 9 fronts and 10 soon).
Redid front fenders with metal ones and got a cby front bumper from Gabe. New engine (blacktop), t3 tension rods, trd sway bar, jdm rear bumper, solo8 led tail lights, nardi classic, new rear end housing, probably other stuff. Pics from various drift events. Sonoma and fatlace/hellaflush event.
How nostalgia sits as of today. Thats her name because the car reminds me of my first 86 from highschool, except less beat (err was), but still reliable and all over the bay. I'll try and keep this one updated.
August 1st, 2008 I picked up my 1985 Toyota Corolla GT-S off the original owner for $1150. I found it on craigslist listed as a "TOYOTA CARROLA"
The car had 304,xxx miles, original paint, led windshield washer squirters, alarm, and keyless entry. I later found out on the drive home that it had 7 quarts of oil in the engine and then eventually developed a rod knock. So I swapped all my parts from my coupe which had been totaled from being rear ended.
Anyways heres the build in order (sorta). You'll notice I go from jdm back to usdm, then back to jdm, then usdm, and finally to where we are today cby front, jdm rear.
ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch installed in 2009. It's been on 3 engine's, through daily driving, and drift days (STILL IN THE CAR TO THIS DAY!)
Got some centerlines for it
Did the whole dry ice and acetone thing put back in the full interior after.
Bought a blacktop from a Canadian importer and it was junk
Got a silvertop from a local importer.
SS works waterline
Pulled my 16 valve out.
20 valve in getting wired
Got fender flares, jdm bumpers.
Decided I didn't like how it all looked. Sold the wheels, bumpers, and the kit I had and got some Hoshino G5's. Went drifting at Thunderhill
Cleaned the engine bay up.
Installed a dash cap.
Replaced my wornout kyb agx combo for stance, modified my obx exhaust
Traded my digital gauge cluster to a friend for work on some door bars
Drifting at the fatlace event 2010
Jerry (jzxseven on here) took some amazing photos of my car at the old alameda naval base.
Went back to JDM.
Got a rs-yasu induction box and sold it
Built a spool and 4.77 ring and pinion
Back to usdm bumpers and drifted at asb 2011. Must go back to horse thief mile..
Had my 15x7.5 -1 turned into a 15x9 -22
Other events. Mostly sonoma drift (local track)
Crashed car street drifting, then crashed car at sonoma. Had to have my fronts rebarreled to a 15x8 -23 since they didn't do half size barrels (going 9 fronts and 10 soon).
Redid front fenders with metal ones and got a cby front bumper from Gabe. New engine (blacktop), t3 tension rods, trd sway bar, jdm rear bumper, solo8 led tail lights, nardi classic, new rear end housing, probably other stuff. Pics from various drift events. Sonoma and fatlace/hellaflush event.
How nostalgia sits as of today. Thats her name because the car reminds me of my first 86 from highschool, except less beat (err was), but still reliable and all over the bay. I'll try and keep this one updated.
- mikeyee
- Club4AG Enthusiast
- Posts: 167
- Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:33 pm
- Location: SF Bay, CA
- Contact:
Re: "nostalgia"
sweeeeet.
sub'd
sub'd
Re: "nostalgia"
Best build on Club4AG, always was... PERIOD! imo
Keep us updated!
Keep us updated!
Re: "nostalgia"
nice to see that this build is back.
R
R
-
- Club4AG Expert
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 11:05 am
- Location: orange county - irvine
- Contact:
Re: "nostalgia"
love this =D
raw - simple - looks great - and driven & enjoyed
raw - simple - looks great - and driven & enjoyed
Rays - Project Mu - TE37 club
BLUE MOON / CUSCO
AE86fightclub.com
PM me for Contact
BLUE MOON / CUSCO
AE86fightclub.com
PM me for Contact
Re: "nostalgia"
hey buddy.
car is looking real cool, as always.
keep it up.
car is looking real cool, as always.
keep it up.
-
- Club4AG Enthusiast
- Posts: 113
- Joined: Sun Apr 07, 2013 2:48 am
Re: "nostalgia"
Looks fantastic with the CBY front bar, and always good to see someone actually using their car!
Re: "nostalgia"
I want them rims!
Nice build
Nice build
- Mr.Fujiwara
- Club4AG Expert
- Posts: 482
- Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:13 am
- Location: North Hollywood
Re: "nostalgia"
Welcome back banana hammock...er, banana fender
Here's your old log, not all is lost. Still love the car.
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=30475
Here's your old log, not all is lost. Still love the car.
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=30475
haha cali...i got one of your 86's and you're not getting it back.
My turd of an 86
20v swapped 86 write-up
My turd of an 86
20v swapped 86 write-up
Re: "nostalgia"
Clean!!
Re: "nostalgia"
Glad to see this build again! Miss the bannana fender but it still looks clean as!
- onelungderryl
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:20 pm
Re: "nostalgia"
Sorry for the lack of updates. This is my cat Apollo
Found mk1 celica supra in the junkyard and pulled the axle.
Cut off the original mounts and busted out the grinder.
Drove down to fresno to trade parts with Jeremy for welding on the ae86 mounts on the axle. Some of the cars at HYPE racing
Jermeys sr20 corolla
sr20 vw beetle
2jzgte celica belongs to Terry the fabricator and shop owner. He did the welding on the mounts.
much penetration
such bead
wow
Welded the open differential (for now)
Installed. Unfortunately richmond gear sent me a reversed cut set of gears so I had to return them. Currently running 3.90s but will be going to a 4.88 once I get the w58 ready.
Broke my bumper had a friend fix it. Repainted it.
Picked up a noby booth induction box
Currently the car is down waiting on my w58 to go in. I'm sick of rebuilding and replacing driveline. I'm working on my design for a w58 to t50 adapter plate. If you're interested in one please PM me.
Found mk1 celica supra in the junkyard and pulled the axle.
Cut off the original mounts and busted out the grinder.
Drove down to fresno to trade parts with Jeremy for welding on the ae86 mounts on the axle. Some of the cars at HYPE racing
Jermeys sr20 corolla
sr20 vw beetle
2jzgte celica belongs to Terry the fabricator and shop owner. He did the welding on the mounts.
much penetration
such bead
wow
Welded the open differential (for now)
Installed. Unfortunately richmond gear sent me a reversed cut set of gears so I had to return them. Currently running 3.90s but will be going to a 4.88 once I get the w58 ready.
Broke my bumper had a friend fix it. Repainted it.
Picked up a noby booth induction box
Currently the car is down waiting on my w58 to go in. I'm sick of rebuilding and replacing driveline. I'm working on my design for a w58 to t50 adapter plate. If you're interested in one please PM me.
Last edited by onelungderryl on Fri Jan 03, 2014 2:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: "nostalgia"
looks sweet
1985 Corolla Hatch widebody w/ SR20det (The Project)
1993 5SGTE stroker widebody MR2 Turbo (drag car)
2002 Miata SE hardtop (daily Driver)
1994 4runner (The truck)
1993 5SGTE stroker widebody MR2 Turbo (drag car)
2002 Miata SE hardtop (daily Driver)
1994 4runner (The truck)
Re: "nostalgia"
Keep us updated, your build is to awesome not to.
-
- Club4AG Expert
- Posts: 423
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:08 pm
- Location: SF
Re: "nostalgia"
One of my favs.
Nice work !
Nice work !
- onelungderryl
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:20 pm
Re: "nostalgia"
So I sold my autopower roll bar. It was good for what I used it for but extremely heavy and had a large roof gap. Chris from Car N Bike Moto is going to help me make a 6 point with door bars. Thats after this whole transmission deal...
Look how much space there is for activities!
Pulled my transmission finally gave it to Mike (high_moon). Heres my ACT clutch. This has been on three engines and in this car since I bought it! 30,000 miles, countless clutch kicks, and 2+ hours of commute for two years and still grabs hard!
Girlfriend surprised me with an awesome gift. NST steering spacer. Apparently they have a 30% off sale with the promo code AE86
Picked up a 3.7kg toda flywheel for a steal and some ARP hardware for the flywheel.
Visited high_moon to drop off his transmission/pick up my usdm bumper/say hi
Saw Takumi's car at Oakland pick n pull...
Heres a video from March 2013. Driving was kind of shaky since that was my first event in 7 months. The miata that I am tandeming with was supercharged at the time. I really want to put in more seat time...
http://youtu.be/fDsVSpFAd_U
Also another video of fox and I tandeming from may 2012.
http://youtu.be/L3kyAPxFHAM
Close call with my buddy Andy in his 20v coupe.
http://youtu.be/CC3QkNpuMaw
Fox's video from the Fatlace event september 2012.
http://vimeo.com/50117063
doublezero/MINT Drift coverage same event.
http://vimeo.com/50272761
Look how much space there is for activities!
Pulled my transmission finally gave it to Mike (high_moon). Heres my ACT clutch. This has been on three engines and in this car since I bought it! 30,000 miles, countless clutch kicks, and 2+ hours of commute for two years and still grabs hard!
Girlfriend surprised me with an awesome gift. NST steering spacer. Apparently they have a 30% off sale with the promo code AE86
Picked up a 3.7kg toda flywheel for a steal and some ARP hardware for the flywheel.
Visited high_moon to drop off his transmission/pick up my usdm bumper/say hi
Saw Takumi's car at Oakland pick n pull...
Heres a video from March 2013. Driving was kind of shaky since that was my first event in 7 months. The miata that I am tandeming with was supercharged at the time. I really want to put in more seat time...
http://youtu.be/fDsVSpFAd_U
Also another video of fox and I tandeming from may 2012.
http://youtu.be/L3kyAPxFHAM
Close call with my buddy Andy in his 20v coupe.
http://youtu.be/CC3QkNpuMaw
Fox's video from the Fatlace event september 2012.
http://vimeo.com/50117063
doublezero/MINT Drift coverage same event.
http://vimeo.com/50272761
- mikeyee
- Club4AG Enthusiast
- Posts: 167
- Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:33 pm
- Location: SF Bay, CA
- Contact:
Re: "nostalgia"
*waves*
Re: "nostalgia"
we should drive together someday maybe.
Come out to USAIR and ride the roller coaster of love.
and damn you for finding a supra axle. I need to go junk yarding when it gets warm again.
Come out to USAIR and ride the roller coaster of love.
and damn you for finding a supra axle. I need to go junk yarding when it gets warm again.
- onelungderryl
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:20 pm
Re: "nostalgia"
LongGrain wrote:we should drive together someday maybe.
Come out to USAIR and ride the roller coaster of love.
and damn you for finding a supra axle. I need to go junk yarding when it gets warm again.
Yeah man! I may go hang out at club fr since a bunch of my friends are going.
Also why not run a toaster toyota van axle?
- onelungderryl
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:20 pm
Re: "nostalgia"
I decided on removing the door decals/molding since I decided on changing the look of my car. Heres the easier way of doing so..
Removing decals, pin stripping, quarter panel chip protector, and molding adhesive is a pain without the correct tools. Using a razor blade or your thumb is hard work/stupid so pick up yourself one of these (it was about $10 from a local auto body supplier). Don't bother buying the adapter they they to sell you, it will fit in your drill chuck no problem.
Follow the directions on the package (keep drill angled at 60 degrees and below 4000rpm)
Before:
During:
Messing around:
After:
Note the rubber everywhere. Use eye protection and wear a mask since its pretty messy.
Removing decals, pin stripping, quarter panel chip protector, and molding adhesive is a pain without the correct tools. Using a razor blade or your thumb is hard work/stupid so pick up yourself one of these (it was about $10 from a local auto body supplier). Don't bother buying the adapter they they to sell you, it will fit in your drill chuck no problem.
Follow the directions on the package (keep drill angled at 60 degrees and below 4000rpm)
Before:
During:
Messing around:
After:
Note the rubber everywhere. Use eye protection and wear a mask since its pretty messy.
- onelungderryl
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:20 pm
Re: "nostalgia"
So first thing before I could fill my rear arches was welding up the seam that ripped and the cracked fender from dolly and hammering it too much. My buddy let me borrow his harbor freight special (non gas mig) welder. Excuse my welds, first time welding and I burned through initially!
Terrible I know. I sealed it up with some filler and rubber coating after I smoothed it out with the grinder. I bet when it rubs it will all fall apart.
Thank you grinder. Cut off the bumper tabs since I was rubbing on them.
Before fill, ignore the saggy jblood.
Filled the arch sanded it.
Primered
I fixed that "wavy" portion seen in this picture
done with this side!
Picked up my custom splined act clutch and had my toda flywheel resurfaced
Started on my rear finish panel. The original owner tried pushing it out himself and made things worse. I wish I could just find one to have someone weld in but its hard to find a straight one... Before I started
Best I could do
Don't worry, I ground down all the rust with the grinder before I put filler.
Looking to trade my LED sprinters for redlines to hide majority of that damage.
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=9698
Let me know if you're interested!
Terrible I know. I sealed it up with some filler and rubber coating after I smoothed it out with the grinder. I bet when it rubs it will all fall apart.
Thank you grinder. Cut off the bumper tabs since I was rubbing on them.
Before fill, ignore the saggy jblood.
Filled the arch sanded it.
Primered
I fixed that "wavy" portion seen in this picture
done with this side!
Picked up my custom splined act clutch and had my toda flywheel resurfaced
Started on my rear finish panel. The original owner tried pushing it out himself and made things worse. I wish I could just find one to have someone weld in but its hard to find a straight one... Before I started
Best I could do
Don't worry, I ground down all the rust with the grinder before I put filler.
Looking to trade my LED sprinters for redlines to hide majority of that damage.
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=9698
Let me know if you're interested!
- onelungderryl
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:20 pm
Re: "nostalgia"
Some stuff I won on yahoo japan auctions.
I was surprised how fast the kit showed up!
My car desperately needs some aero mirrors.
Also if you didn't know my car is influenced by Yuki Saito of THE SEXY KNIGHTS. He drives a chaser now, heres his old 86.
looking at getting these GKtech s13 mirrors, anyone interested in my murakamis?
I was surprised how fast the kit showed up!
My car desperately needs some aero mirrors.
Also if you didn't know my car is influenced by Yuki Saito of THE SEXY KNIGHTS. He drives a chaser now, heres his old 86.
looking at getting these GKtech s13 mirrors, anyone interested in my murakamis?
- onelungderryl
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:20 pm
Re: "nostalgia"
Fiberglassing 101
You'll need supplies and equipment
The most important things to remember while working with fiberglass... Always wear gloves/respirator/eye protection and work in a open environment!
That being said you'll also need...
Fiberglass mat
Fiberglass resin
Fiberglass "kitty hair"
Something mechanical that sands
A drill with bits
Electric screw driver (nice to have but not necessary)
Wood screws
Stir sticks (they were free when I bought the fiberglass stuff)
Acetone/rag to use for cleaning
Disposable paint brushes (dollar store)
Large piece of cardboard
Disposable container (for mixing)
Some good shears for cutting fabric
Patience
First thing you're going to want to do is sand down the edges that need to be connected. In this case there is no jagged edges (we will get to broken aero later) so it was pretty basic.
You want the pieces to be thin to connect the two. You don't need to remove much material, I'd say an inch from the edge is fine maybe too much.
Next align the pieces. I used a block of wood underneath to do so.
Then predrill a stir stick (or piece of wood) with four holes that are spaced fairly far apart. You want to use a larger diameter bit for this than what you'll be using on the fiberglass piece.
After you get one side lined up, do the other sides with the same method (note: I only did two sides on this skirt since everything lined up fine and didnt flex)
Backside
One piece again!
Pour some acetone on a rag and wipe the area clean.
Both skirts clean and ready for resin.
Next precut some of your fiberglass mat to the correct size/shape so you're not messing around with it while its drying. Ideally you want the damaged/cut area to be covered by 2 inches in either direction.
Heres what I used. Evercoat brand fiberglass resin.
Now for some fun. Take your disposable container and pour your resin in. Read the directions carefully on the packaging to obtain the correct mixing ratio with the hardener.
When mixed correctly the resin should change to a different color.
Next place your precut fiberglass mat onto that large cardboard box. Then apply resin onto the mat using the paint brushes.
You want to make sure that its completely saturated.
If you're not wearing gloves already go put some on! Pick up the presoaked mat and position it onto your piece. Be sure to leave enough slack to go around the screws.
Next grab our trusty paint brush and pour the resin onto the mat. Apply the resin throughout to attach the mat to the inside of your piece trying to remove any air voids.
Then you're done! With step one... now its a waiting game depending on the humidity, temperature, and how well you mixed your resin.
You'll need supplies and equipment
The most important things to remember while working with fiberglass... Always wear gloves/respirator/eye protection and work in a open environment!
That being said you'll also need...
Fiberglass mat
Fiberglass resin
Fiberglass "kitty hair"
Something mechanical that sands
A drill with bits
Electric screw driver (nice to have but not necessary)
Wood screws
Stir sticks (they were free when I bought the fiberglass stuff)
Acetone/rag to use for cleaning
Disposable paint brushes (dollar store)
Large piece of cardboard
Disposable container (for mixing)
Some good shears for cutting fabric
Patience
First thing you're going to want to do is sand down the edges that need to be connected. In this case there is no jagged edges (we will get to broken aero later) so it was pretty basic.
You want the pieces to be thin to connect the two. You don't need to remove much material, I'd say an inch from the edge is fine maybe too much.
Next align the pieces. I used a block of wood underneath to do so.
Then predrill a stir stick (or piece of wood) with four holes that are spaced fairly far apart. You want to use a larger diameter bit for this than what you'll be using on the fiberglass piece.
After you get one side lined up, do the other sides with the same method (note: I only did two sides on this skirt since everything lined up fine and didnt flex)
Backside
One piece again!
Pour some acetone on a rag and wipe the area clean.
Both skirts clean and ready for resin.
Next precut some of your fiberglass mat to the correct size/shape so you're not messing around with it while its drying. Ideally you want the damaged/cut area to be covered by 2 inches in either direction.
Heres what I used. Evercoat brand fiberglass resin.
Now for some fun. Take your disposable container and pour your resin in. Read the directions carefully on the packaging to obtain the correct mixing ratio with the hardener.
When mixed correctly the resin should change to a different color.
Next place your precut fiberglass mat onto that large cardboard box. Then apply resin onto the mat using the paint brushes.
You want to make sure that its completely saturated.
If you're not wearing gloves already go put some on! Pick up the presoaked mat and position it onto your piece. Be sure to leave enough slack to go around the screws.
Next grab our trusty paint brush and pour the resin onto the mat. Apply the resin throughout to attach the mat to the inside of your piece trying to remove any air voids.
Then you're done! With step one... now its a waiting game depending on the humidity, temperature, and how well you mixed your resin.
- onelungderryl
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:20 pm
Re: "nostalgia"
Also I ziptied my bumper together so it wasn't in 6 pieces.
Excited! I'm going to extend the bottom of the origin rear bumper a little bit to match the skirts better.
Fiberglassing part 2
First off, since you're reading this give yourself a pat on the back. It shows good character since you didn't give up. Good job.
The next step is to remove the screws/wood from the skirts. After take out your trusty dremel with a sanding wheel and lightly sand around the screw holes.
Next grab your short strand fiberglass hair or "kitty hair"
Not that kitty hair...
Thats more like it. Grab a piece of card board to use your body fill spatulas to mix and apply.
After its done drying use a "block sander" with 60-80 grit sand paper on it.
Hold the block sander flat moving in the same direction until the part is smooth with no "high" edges on the ends that were connected. It's ok that there is voids, we are getting to that...
Body filler can be used to fill whats left
Same deal, mix apply.
Sand, primer, grab a beer you did it.
Excited! I'm going to extend the bottom of the origin rear bumper a little bit to match the skirts better.
Fiberglassing part 2
First off, since you're reading this give yourself a pat on the back. It shows good character since you didn't give up. Good job.
The next step is to remove the screws/wood from the skirts. After take out your trusty dremel with a sanding wheel and lightly sand around the screw holes.
Next grab your short strand fiberglass hair or "kitty hair"
Not that kitty hair...
Thats more like it. Grab a piece of card board to use your body fill spatulas to mix and apply.
After its done drying use a "block sander" with 60-80 grit sand paper on it.
Hold the block sander flat moving in the same direction until the part is smooth with no "high" edges on the ends that were connected. It's ok that there is voids, we are getting to that...
Body filler can be used to fill whats left
Same deal, mix apply.
Sand, primer, grab a beer you did it.
- onelungderryl
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:20 pm
Re: "nostalgia"
Decided to man up and try welding my sidemarkers and rear hatch holes up. Grabbed my "dropvent" hood I had laying in the backyard and cut off some metal
Made a pattern and cut it out
Skills with the grinder
'
Ugly I know.
Again, skills with the grinder
1/4 panel
Tacked in
Basically finished the rear tail light section
Fixed that radius
Lots of runs, it was cold out when I painted
Overall.
Getting there. I need to glass my front bumper but its been damp out. Still don't know what color I want to go with. Its between red, black, and almond.
Made a pattern and cut it out
Skills with the grinder
'
Ugly I know.
Again, skills with the grinder
1/4 panel
Tacked in
Basically finished the rear tail light section
Fixed that radius
Lots of runs, it was cold out when I painted
Overall.
Getting there. I need to glass my front bumper but its been damp out. Still don't know what color I want to go with. Its between red, black, and almond.
- onelungderryl
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:20 pm
Re: "nostalgia"
Finally started on the drivers side body work...
Made another block off plate and got it welded in
Patience worked out on this side and I didn't warp the panel at all. Lesson learned. #amatureweldporn
Rear finish panel under the passenger tail light is finished.
Before
Now
No more buckle over the wheel arch and no more quarter panel side marker
Made another block off plate and got it welded in
Patience worked out on this side and I didn't warp the panel at all. Lesson learned. #amatureweldporn
Rear finish panel under the passenger tail light is finished.
Before
Now
No more buckle over the wheel arch and no more quarter panel side marker
- onelungderryl
- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:20 pm
Re: "nostalgia"
Put in the time at the shop the other day and finished up the prototypes on the lathe. The final design for the pilot bearing extension will be made of steel to avoid the possibility of the bearing "falling out" because of thermal expansion. I checked clearance with my custom ACT clutch disk (PN #6200107) and even if the clutch disk explodes and the face of the flywheel is worn it should not make contact with the pilot bearing spacer.
Also I will offer the weld on throw out bearing spacer separate from the kit for the 1uz guys or anyone who has the nite parts bell housing and need an extension. The extension is 0.75" thick but can be made to your spec. $50 plus pay pal, tax, and shipping on the extensions alone.
Note: I used the "mid" shifter position, this shifter position will require cutting the tranny tunnel. However, RA64 RA65 and MA61 will go straight in.
This is the MK3 shifter in the MK2 supra/RA64 celica shifter housing.
Very slight shifter lean, comparible to the TRD short shift for the t50
Easy remedy. Threw the shifter in the vice, heated it with a propane torch, and bent it with a jack handle. Look for a short shift kit soon!
Also I will offer the weld on throw out bearing spacer separate from the kit for the 1uz guys or anyone who has the nite parts bell housing and need an extension. The extension is 0.75" thick but can be made to your spec. $50 plus pay pal, tax, and shipping on the extensions alone.
Note: I used the "mid" shifter position, this shifter position will require cutting the tranny tunnel. However, RA64 RA65 and MA61 will go straight in.
This is the MK3 shifter in the MK2 supra/RA64 celica shifter housing.
Very slight shifter lean, comparible to the TRD short shift for the t50
Easy remedy. Threw the shifter in the vice, heated it with a propane torch, and bent it with a jack handle. Look for a short shift kit soon!