Erratic Tach, Misfire, CEL code 6, HELP!

[overspool]

So, after rebuilding my motor I'm having some very weird electrical issues.

Only on LEFT HAND TURNS or LARGE BUMPS, my tach starts jumping around, the car bogs/misfires terribly, and the CEL will come on. I have zero emissions devices on this vehicle, nothing even plugged in, and the CEL has stayed off lol. So, I'm a little concerned with what's going on. I ran new wires for the tach as well as water temp (originally the water temp was jumping up with the tach), and the problem still persists. I checked the underdash harness, engine harness, and gauge cluster. No shorts or anything.

Anybody else have a similar issue? Possibly coil/ignitor? It's just weird that it only does it on left hand turns.

[ae86xy]

Jump the diagnostic plug for codes, car bogs down and misfire does it do that qhile your driving I think its your dizzy but again count how many times the cel flash and write it and post it here

[overspool]

The CEL only stays on for a few seconds. not enough time to jump the diagnostic plug and count the flashes.

I found this in the engine harness... the 2 brown wires go to the AC connector (I don't have AC), and the other two go to the igniter.



I dunno if there is a short through them, but that sure is crispy.

[BakaBaka]

I think you might've answered your own question there.

FIx them wires up and let us know how it goes afterwards.

[ae86xy]

Get those wires fix and get back on us

[overspool]

bump. Fixed those wires, issue still persists. I now have a code 6.

I've swapped:
Coil
Igniter
Distributor
ECU

I've replaced/rewired:
Distributor to ECU wiring
Underdash harness water temp & RPM signal wire

I have literally replaced/swapped everything associated with the code 6 (distributor RPM signal). It shouldn't have a problem, but yet it still does... uggghhh...

[overspool]

I decided to take the distributor completely out of hte question. I unplugged it (The 2 wires that go to the ecu). CEL is on, and it runs just fine, but still has the same issue. So... the issue is not with the distributor, but with the igniter side of the circuit. OH JOY. I've got 5 more new wires to run.

[overspool]

Checking the resistance of the wires between the igniter and the ECU, all of them are normal. 0.2-0.5 ohms. The main power wire that goes from the ignition switch to the igniter (black with an orange stripe) has 10.4 Mohms of resistance. That's NO BUENO. Somewhere in the short section of underdash harness it is getting oodles and oodles of resistance. I'm going to trace it as best as I can, but most likely I'm just going to replace the wire. Drift event on Saturday... gotta get the motor broken in tomorrow, alignment done, and oil cooler mounted. MAN THIS IS GOING TO BE CLOSE.

[jondee86]

Try putting a temporary 12V feed straight from the battery positive to the coil positive.
That will take the key switch supply out of the equation. Just remember you will have
power on the coil and igniter all the time, regardless of key position.

And that black/orange wire runs thru the big squarish multipin plug high on the firewall
behind the engine. Check that doesn't have a broken wire or burned pin.

Cheers... jondee86

[overspool]

igniter had good voltage. I ended up running new wires for the signals from the ECU to the igniter (or visa versa). that solved my issue. The weird thing is that I couldn't get the wires to ground out anywhere when testing them. After I ran the new wires, I had no more issues.