So i've created my own wiring harness for everything in the car (ripped out all the old ones) and I'm not sure what the 3 wires coming out of my alternator are/do. I have a white, blue and black wire. I have the power wire running back the battery, but my alternator is not recharging.
Do I need to be adding power to any of those wires to make it recharge?
Alternator is new, its not originally form a 4a, but its a Toyota (Denso) alternator. and the ground for the alternator is good.
Rewired my entire car - Alternator issues.
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- Club4AG Regular
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:39 pm
Re: Rewired my entire car - Alternator issues.
I checked my part number on the alternator, its out of an 85 gts, mine is car is an 87.
still no idea what to do with those wires.
still no idea what to do with those wires.
Re: Rewired my entire car - Alternator issues.
Yes, you need all three of those wires. The white one is a battery voltage sense lead, it goes to the + terminal of the battery via the fusible link blocks. Separately from the charge output wire, although both are identical white SAE-10 wires stock. Replace your charge wire with something heavier and use that one for the sense lead.
The black and blue wires go to the ignition harness to provide power to start the alternator and that's also tied into the charge/brake light. You'll want a wiring diagram to show you where those go. Running an alternator without the battery sense lead connected can cause it to go full output (17 volts) and burn out in a minute or less, so finish your wiring before you try to run the alternator. And since the output wire does go direct to battery hot...you might want to disconnect the battery ground when you're working on the alternator. If you short out the output post, the short carries full battery power and can do a lot of damage to fingers too.
85/6/7 model year shouldn't matter on this.
The black and blue wires go to the ignition harness to provide power to start the alternator and that's also tied into the charge/brake light. You'll want a wiring diagram to show you where those go. Running an alternator without the battery sense lead connected can cause it to go full output (17 volts) and burn out in a minute or less, so finish your wiring before you try to run the alternator. And since the output wire does go direct to battery hot...you might want to disconnect the battery ground when you're working on the alternator. If you short out the output post, the short carries full battery power and can do a lot of damage to fingers too.
85/6/7 model year shouldn't matter on this.
-- Original owner, 1985 GT-S
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Re: Rewired my entire car - Alternator issues.
Well because I rewired the entire car, I'm going to have to create my own fuse for the white wire.
Could I just loop these wires back to the recharge terminal? I already changed out the wire to a thicker gauge.
Thanks for the help!
Could I just loop these wires back to the recharge terminal? I already changed out the wire to a thicker gauge.
Thanks for the help!
Re: Rewired my entire car - Alternator issues.
http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php ... ng_Diagram
and
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=26085
may explain it better. The lead that goes to the "charge" light is critical, the light is also used as a dropping resistor to prevent full voltage from going to that lead. Get that wrong and you may blow out the alternator or worse. All the wires need to be fused, and of course the primary output wire needs to be fused at full capacity, i.e. 60A with a proper fuse. The common ATO fuses are not rated for ignition protection or battery protection.
If the switched leads aren't switched properly, you may blow the alternator, or kill your battery. So this can be kludged, but it won't be any harder to find your harness wires and get it done right.
and
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=26085
may explain it better. The lead that goes to the "charge" light is critical, the light is also used as a dropping resistor to prevent full voltage from going to that lead. Get that wrong and you may blow out the alternator or worse. All the wires need to be fused, and of course the primary output wire needs to be fused at full capacity, i.e. 60A with a proper fuse. The common ATO fuses are not rated for ignition protection or battery protection.
If the switched leads aren't switched properly, you may blow the alternator, or kill your battery. So this can be kludged, but it won't be any harder to find your harness wires and get it done right.
-- Original owner, 1985 GT-S