First off i want to say hello again, I havent been on here in a while. Well i finally decided to play with a AE86 instead of 240sx' for a change but with the car not running i cannot play, so I need y'alls help.

The car is a 1987 Corolla SR5 RWD with a 4a-ge swap. I dont know much about these things at all so i really dont know what 4a-ge it is besides it being a 16V and it has TVIS. I got the car not running and it has been sitting.
I put a new battery, Spark plugs, fuel pump and fresh fuel in it. I lined up the camshaft notch,the distributor and had the crank notch at the 10 degree mark.
I got the car to start but it idled at 5000k RPM then died after 5 seconds. I went through the vacuum lines and plugged a lot of them off, i ran a line from the center of the valve cover to the center nipple of the intake manifold, which brought down the idle to about 1000k RPM, but the car dies after 5-10 seconds and if i try to rev it, it misses instantly dies.
I checked the voltage to the injectors and its about 11.90V all around. There is spark going to the plugs and i beleive there is fuel going to the injectors since it does start. I was confused about the fuel system because i disconnected the feed line off before the fuel filter and turned the key on but there is no fuel coming out unless i turn the car over.

I was reading something about a injector resistor and i found something like it in the car,but the car does have stock injectors in it i beleive. Its a metal rectagular thing with cooling fins on it and has 4 male prongs in it so my guess was that its the resistor, correct me if im wrong. I dont know where it plugs in though because there is two round plugs that look like it fits into one is next to the round 2 prong jumper connector and the other one is behind the strut tower . I plugged it into the plug behind the strut tower and it didnt make a difference on how it runs.

Any help would be appreciated.

rj180sx wrote:i finally decided to play with a AE86 instead of 240sx' .

I have decided to help you after I read this. Two hundred and Forties X's are for peasants. You are better than a RWD civic.

Check your fuel pump power with a voltmeter. You most likely have a problem with the circuit open relay (aka fuel pump relay) behind the glovebox. You have a GTSR5 so no clue knowing how they wired it or what grade speaker wire was used for the fuel injector wiring. There SHOULD be a black relay with a yellow connector behind the glove box if they used a stock EFI harness off a GTS. If not you need to check for battery voltage at the fuel pump in these two states.

The factory fuel pump relay is really two relays in one. Half of it turns on the fuel pump for cranking then the other half keeps the pump on during RUN. Sounds like the relay is working during cranking and supplies enough fuel to let it run for about 5 secs until the line runs dry. See that you have 12v at the pump when cranking and YOU CONTINUE to have 12v until it dies. If you have power then it goes away you probably just need a new relay. Try feeding power to the pump at all times. Disconnect one of the license plate light connetors and run a peice of wire from the GREEN wire of the light connector to the BLUE/BLACK wire (or B+ wire) of the fuel pump connector with the fuel pump connector still plugged together. Turn your headlights/running lights on. Jumping the plate light wire to the fuel pump now turns your headlight switch into a temporary fuel pump on switch. When the headlights are on you now have 12v to the pump and bypass the relay. If the car now runs, the relay was bad get a new one. If you change the relay and it still does the same thing but runs with the headlight trick, try holding the flapper door open in the AFM and cranking it. The AFM controls the fuel relay. If the AFM is bad the relay will not get a ground and will not turn on.

**I lined up the camshaft notch,the distributor and had the crank notch at the 10 degree mark.**

Crank indicator should be at 0* with cams at notches, Dizzy goes in with dots lined up.

MisterJerk wrote:**I lined up the camshaft notch,the distributor and had the crank notch at the 10 degree mark.**

Crank indicator should be at 0* with cams at notches, Dizzy goes in with dots lined up.

The only way the cam notch would line up was the 10º mark, so does that mean the mechanical/timing belt is off?

It could be off.
Try this:

With timing belt off, crank to zero, cam gears lined up with notches and tensioner set loose enuff for you to get the belt over the gears. Make sure this is tdc. lower timing pulley has a notch that lines up with a dot on the oil pump. If you do not see the dot and notch, check for tdc with a long screw driver down the #1 spark plug hole.
The key, or keyway on the crank could be messed up.
Once you are able to find TDC. pull the timing belt around until you feel it catch the grooves in the pulley, verify still at tdc. Cam gears should be lined up with dots and lines. Pull the timing belt tight on side with no pulley. Verify tdc. slip it on the gears. Loosen the tensioner bolt, should take up the slack on the belt. Verify TDC and cam gears are lined up. Turn the Engine clockwise at the crank bolt a few revolutions, you will see the tensioner taking slack out. Once the tensioner has taken the slack out and you are satisfied with the tension, tighten the tensioner bolt. Verify TDC.

Dizzy time, with cap off, but rotor on, Line up the dots. Hold rotor position with your hand(should be pointing at #1) slide it in.

Time consuming, but it works.