My car is pissing me off. I just restored it myself and I'm already thinking about selling it.. but that's for another topic. Not selling till I actually enjoy driving it again, which as of now.. I can't because the engine is having issues.

First off, I rebuilt (or should I say "overhauled") the tiny 4AGE on my 'Rolla GTS. During the process of removal to installation, I lost most of the EGR stuff except for the charcoal canister and some hardlines. So seeing how EGR is expensive as hell from the dealer and since there isn't any cons that outweigh the pros in keeping it, I decided to delete the EGR completely while keeping the charcoal can + lines for it. I do believe I did the EGR delete 99.999998% correctly. I blocked off the rear of the intake, caps some lines, re-routed the TVIS lines under the intake manifold.. etc etc. However, and I don't know whether or not this is a symptom from going EGR-less, but my car always has a extremely rough cold start and after a few seconds the RPM will drop and bog and eventually stall out. I have to constant rev the engine at 2-3k rpm to keep it from stalling. After it's fully warmed the car will stay at around 1000rpm with some shudder/rumble.. feeling like it's at the point where it starts stalling, but doesn't for most the part. However, if I blip the throttle after it's warmed a few times, there's a 50/50 chance it'll bog down and die. When I try to drive it, it's sluggish and slow as hell.. I could hear it bog and it feels like there's no power.

I checked the cold start and fuel injectors and it's working, I took off my throttle body, IACV and cleaned it and the same crap still happens. I'm at the point where I'm completely lost and have no clue what's causing it. I checked for any and all vacuum leaks and there isn't any. I would like to point out I also deleted the power steering, so the two vacuum lines for the P/S pump on the IACV has been capped individually. I tried connecting a hose to both P/S vacuum lines on the IACV and the stalling/rough idle issue is gone but it would idle at 3k rpm even with the mixture screw adjusted all the way down. Timing is spot on as well @ 15-17 degree TDC, and yes, I shorted the two jumper terminals as well during the timing procedure.

Also, the dashpot works as well and doesn't seem to be the culprit I was hoping for since I also tried capping the DP and nothing changes. In a nutshell, the car sometimes idles just fine after it's warmed up.. however, idle is still rough but stalling doesn't happen as frequently. But then again, there is absolutely no power, when I try to gas it, all I hear is bogging and the car feels like it has only 50hp. I'd finally like to point out that when I pump the brakes multiple times.. the motor's rpm decreases eventually causing it to stall too.

That's all I can come up with... someone please waste a minute reading this and another minute brainstorming what crazy **** could be causing my issue. I will be forever grateful.

Kudos,
Jay

oxygen sensor MAYBE, make sure the intake tube from the AFM to the manifold is good (no loose clamps or anything), and make sure the injectors are grounded well (brown wires that bolt onto the intake mani).

Check timing on cam gears and dizzy

overspool wrote:oxygen sensor MAYBE, make sure the intake tube from the AFM to the manifold is good (no loose clamps or anything), and make sure the injectors are grounded well (brown wires that bolt onto the intake mani).

o2 sensor is new, no vacuum leaks either.. I ran a smoke test on it already. And all points are grounded correctly.

TTC wrote:Check timing on cam gears and dizzy

Cam shaft & gears were installed correctly, no jumped tooth or anything. Dizzy is timed correctly as well with correct firing order.

BakaBaka wrote:

overspool wrote:oxygen sensor MAYBE, make sure the intake tube from the AFM to the manifold is good (no loose clamps or anything), and make sure the injectors are grounded well (brown wires that bolt onto the intake mani).

o2 sensor is new, no vacuum leaks either.. I ran a smoke test on it already. And all points are grounded correctly.

What I'm referring to isn't technically a vacuum leak, it is pre-throttle body, so not under vacuum.

It's definitely not the dash pot, iacv, or egr delete (unless you routed vacuum lines wrong). These items can all be removed from an otherwise stock 4age and it will run fine. I wish I could help further.

overspool wrote:What I'm referring to isn't technically a vacuum leak, it is pre-throttle body, so not under vacuum.

Yea, the AFM elbow is secured/clamped on.

BakaBaka wrote:Cam shaft & gears were installed correctly, no jumped tooth or anything. Dizzy is timed correctly as well with correct firing order.

No one on the WWW has ever claimed anything different then you, until they corrected it.

allencr wrote:

BakaBaka wrote:Cam shaft & gears were installed correctly, no jumped tooth or anything. Dizzy is timed correctly as well with correct firing order.

No one on the WWW has ever claimed anything different then you, until they corrected it.

That doesn't help me.. ya know.

have you looked inside the dizzy? any oil in there? Unplug the AFM and take a look at the contacts on the plug, make sure they are all there amd not somehow pushed out of the way. Stock TB from an ae86? make sure all the ports line up on the intake manifold?

If only you were closer, we could get our heads together in person and figure it out.

But yeah, like I said on ECtoyotas, check the TPS. If you have checked all the vacuums and what not, what else is left? I dont think the O2 sensor would cause that. could unplug it and see if theres a diff.

OK then, what's the compression and is the TDC mark on the damper actually @ TDC and are there any codes?

I totally spaced about the TPS. That guy gave me a headache.