4age won't spray fuel

[kuvyoghmoob]

I ran 12v to fuel pump and its works but when I turn the key the fuel pump it will not spray fuel. I hooked the multi meter to the injectors and they are getting power when I crank. Checked fuses and relay already. Can this be a ground issue? Been on this for a couple days now. I just can't figure it out. I need some help. Thanks

[Jeonsah]

Start by disconnecting the fuel line after the fuel rail.Jump the fuel pump and then let the fuel go into a container. If there is fuel present at the fuel rail, then it is most likely your injectors are not wired correctly. The injectors are all grounded on the intake manfiold right next to the fuel rail. Otherwise, if you dont get any fuel, you either have a clog in the system or your fuel pump is dead.

Lastly, are you sure the issue is your not getting fuel? What are the symptoms of your car? Does it run at all?

[kuvyoghmoob]

If I run 12v and the pump turns on. Does that mean that it's still no good? When I turn the key on, I hear no fuel pump, unless I jump the pump with 12v. Do you think my pump is dead?

[Jeonsah]

You could try hooking up 12v to the pump and trying to start the car. At this point, there isnt quite enough information to diagnose the problem for sure. If the car doesnt start with the fuel pump jumped, then it could be the fuel pump or something else(i.e. injectors not firing). If the car does start, then the wiring for the fuel pump is bad. It could be a ground wire in both cases. In the mean while, hook the fuel pump up and then try running the car. Then try check for fuel at the end of the fuel rail (the return line from the fuel rail). Then check all your ground wires.... I believe theres 1 from the cylinder head to the firewall, 1 by the fuse box, 1 on the intake manfiold(4 brown wires) for the injectors, and a few others im not remember.

[ga_goosh]

your fuel pump doesnt prime like a honda. it will run on cranking only. there is 4 brown wires that bolt to the top of the intake manifold. that is the ground for the injectors.

[kuvyoghmoob]

Tried running 12v and cranking but still no start up. Intake mani is grounded too. I have 3 circut open relays and tried all of them.. Still no start up. It was working fine on the old motor before I swapped out the motor. Can the metal mani gaskets have something to do with the ground. They are installed but maybe I should have put new ones.

[ga_goosh]

Tried running 12v and cranking but still no start up. Intake mani is grounded too. I have 3 circut open relays and tried all of them.. Still no start up. It was working fine on the old motor before I swapped out the motor. Can the metal mani gaskets have something to do with the ground. They are installed but maybe I should have put new ones.

are you saying you reused the intake mani gaskets? if that is the case then put new gaskets on since you probably have a vac leak

[kuvyoghmoob]

I will get new gaskets but do you know if that effect the grounding of the motor

[ga_goosh]

im not sure but a vac leak that bad could keep you from running

[Jeonsah]

Alright so it sounds like your fuel pump is working... You can do a couple tests to confirm that its working. You can check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail and make sure it is within spec (i think its around 30 to 35 psi. not positive tho). Then another thing you can try is giving the fuel pump 12v again and making sure there is fuel going to the return line. This line is just on the back of the fuel rail towards the firewall. If you have fuel coming from there, then it is most likely something else.


Start off by doing those 2 tests. This will give you more information on the fuel pump. If your car passes both of these tests, then It is something else.

An engine needs the following to start:
1. air
2. fuel
3. spark (with correct timing)

Do the two tests i said above and once you have that information, I will help you move on. Dont give up!

I would not worry about the vacuum leak as long as your intake manifold is bolted down tight and you do not hear any leaks.... You will have to have a pretty big vacuum leak to make an engine not run.

[kuvyoghmoob]

Sorry i have been busy working. I don't have a fuel pressure kit so I did not check the pressure. But I ran 12v to the fuel pump and the fuel came out the return line. There are 2 blue wires that come from the fire wall harness in the trunk and it hooks up to the fuel pump. I took a multi meter and I don't see 12v when the key is on or when I crank the motor. What is giving the fuel pump power. I look at the wiring diagrams but I don't know how to read that stuff. I have 3 extra COR so it probably isn't this relay. Check all grounds and everything has a good ground. I also ripped out the old harness out and put a different harness on. I just need to know what gives the pump power? Fuel pump might be bad too because it only works with 12v and will not start car if I crank the motor. I want to be sure because an oem pump is pretty pricey.

[Jeonsah]

You can start off by testing the continuity of the fuel pump wires. Continuity tests can be done with a multimeter and they will check to see if the wire is broken. So do that on both of the fuel pump wires. You will want to follow the fuel pump wires from the fuel pump to wherever they go. Then test them on once your sure you have both ends of the wires. The fuel pump is only turned on when the Air Flow Meter (AFM) flap moves. So if you can, swap in another air flow meter. If you dont have one, we can test yours with a multimeter.

So first just check those fuel pump wires. You can test the ground wire by touching the wire with one prob of the multimeter and then the other probe to the chasis. If your multimeter beeps, then you have continuity. You will need to find where the 12v fuel pump wire goes. Then you test that wire for continuity.

[kuvyoghmoob]

I already tried a different afm but how do I check if its good with the meter? Fuel pump ground has good continuity. Both of the blue power wires for the pump read a little bit of voltage. My battery is weak from all the cranking and is charging now. I went to the COR and jumped blk/blue and blk/red. But I didn't here the fuel pump engage.

[Jeonsah]

So its pretty late and its been a stressfull day... I figured id give you some information that'd help you work on your car before I go to bed. Ill help you out some more tommorrow. Heres some pictures that will help ya out some more...

1. AFM tests via factory service manual



2. COR circuit stuff from factory service manual


I would follow those tests. The other thing you can do if you have spare time after these tests are:

1. Check the AFM connector. I believe there ground wire(possibly Vs is ground). So make sure it has continuity with the chassis. The AFM may have 2 ground wires so check them both. I believe they're both brown wires.

2. Check for spark.
- start at plugs
- next wires
- next distributor cap
- next coil wire
- next coil

This will make sure there is spark traveling through every part its supposed to. The only other thing you can do is take off the front timing cover and check your timing. At TDC(top dead center) you should see the '0' mark on the lower timing cover lined up with the mark on the crank. When the crank is lined up, you should see your cam gear dimples lined up with the two vertical marks on the black backing plate behind the cam gears. You will have to rotate the crank via the crank pulley bolt.

[kuvyoghmoob]

Checked for spark and I'm getting spark. Checked afm and it's within spec. COR is also within spec. But I'm not getting any continuity on the afm connector "vs" . What can I do to fix this? And the efi main closes when the key is on.

[kuvyoghmoob]

Yessssss... It's running now... Thank you guys. The head on this jdm motor is making a low knocking noise. Can this be adjusted. Or do I need a new head.

[Jeonsah]

If the head is making any noise, its either something really bad or your valve clearances are out of spec. If you want to see if they're in spec, you will need to pull of the valve covers and check the clearance between the backside of each cam lobe and its shim. You will need feeler gauges for this. There is a procedure for doing this. If you want, I can post up the How-To from the factory service manual for ya.


You should also take into account that it is possible that the knocking noise could be coming from your block. Your bearings for your connecting rods could be on their way out. The easiest way to tell is to grab a stethescope and hold it next to the block. If you hear a loud knocking noise on part of it, then your rod bearings are probably going out.


Congrats on getting your car to run again. The vs wire is most likely the ground wire. If its a brown wire, that is most likely what it is. In that case, you can solder a wire to that wire near the connector and then ground your new wire. Or you can trace the bad wire and see where it is broken and repair it.

Vic

[kuvyoghmoob]

Is there a way to adjust the valves like Honda motors? I hope it's not the block, because I have an extra rebuild head ready to go. Can you send me the steps to check the head specs? Thanks

[Jeonsah]

Here ya go homey:

1st Page:


2nd Page:


Intake Table:
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac29 ... able-1.jpg

Exhaust Table:
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac29 ... tTable.jpg


Use the intake & exhaust tables to figure out what size of shim you need. Make sure when you order your shims, you keep the receipt. You may end up still having to return some.

Vic

[Jeonsah]

You can also compute the size of shim you need another way. Using feeler gauges, you can see what the max size feeler gauge that will fit. Then you know the ideal clearance stated in the pictures above. So then you can do some basic addition and subtraction to get the correct size.

(Max feeler gauge size that fits)
- (Ideal Clearance Size)
__________________________________
= ( left over clearance)

If you add this left over clearance to the size of your shim, it will get you in the maxium clearance allowed range. So you may want to go to the next size.


new shim = old shim size + (left over clearance + 1 size bigger)


Hopefully this makes sense. It may be a little more complicated than the book but it can be done with just using a feeler gauge. It wont be as accurate though.

[kuvyoghmoob]

Thanks. It's running and Sounding good now