I need the specifications on the ae86 slave cylinder travel distance. My search on the net has yielded nothing useful. I'm getting about .5 of inch throw... But its not enough? Check this video ...

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6kwW2vXB66DS3haRl9wMWVUUzg/edit?usp=sharinghttps://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6kwW2vXB66DS3haRl9wMWVUUzg/edit?usp=sharing

If this looks good, then the issue is with the tranny, right?

Here is situation: My tranny stopped shifting (easily). I had noticed a leaking master cylinder a few weeks prior but keep driving on it until it stopped shifting into gear properly. I replace the master cylinder and it did not help. I have kp61 with 4ag and t50 tranny, not sure which bell housing i have...I thought it was an sr5. A few years ago i had a leaking slave cylinder. Went to a few different autozones and orielys, never found a matching slave so in frustration, I bought the kit and was happy with the results. Nonetheless i'm ordering what I think is the right slave cylinder...PN: 3147012030 Looks like one i have.

Thanks for any assistance.

Iv heard of some part stores mixing up parts and part numbers. I have heard that oreily has the ae86 part number for the te72 slave cylinder and vise versa. take your old slave and see if it is longer or shorter then the new one. if your old one is longer then your new one then you have the wrong slave cylinder.. also rock auto sells rebuild kits for pretty cheap. you might be able to get away with rebuilding your old one for less moneys.

or you could hit up RPM motors and get a Master & clutch slave made by aisin(OE toyota supplier). I did this, when i bought my car, 4 years ago. I hardly ever buy stuff from the local parts stores anymore. The quality isnt there, at least in my experience.



*edited, cause i spell like poop

Interesting that the slave cylinder worked well with the other MC before it leaked...
If Part#3147012030 corrects the limit travel at the fork....

JulianTayloring wrote:If this looks good, then the issue is with the tranny, right?

If it was at the tranny, a worn pressure plate could mimic the same condition.

Can someone offer an opinion on the travel distance? What should it be? Is half inch enough? Anyone with a ae86 observe there slave cylinder movement of the fork?

I appreciate the responses. The service manual links are great but did not have a specficication.

I had pulled my tranny last weekend to check the fork action. My cluth has maybe 10,000 miles on it. The pressure plate had some wear at the contact point with the throw-out bearing but it did not appear to be excessively worn.

Mines has a 5/8" inch travel at the fork..hope this helps

Maybe your clutch is out/worn or damage.
My buddies car wouldn't shift to ANY Gear, we pop the transmission and check the clutch and it was f*** up. The springs broke up. After switching new clutch, it shift smooth again.

when you replaced the master, did you readjust the linkage to the pedal? also, no mention of bleeding after the master was replaced.

when i replaced my clutch master, I had to swap the piece that attaches it to the pedal from the original MC, for some reason it was different and longer than the original, limiting the pedal travel.

Yes, .5in is more then enough.
Is it just dragging or not disengaging at all?
Hanging the trans off the clutch when installing, before the pilot bearing is engaged, twists the disk and causes it to drag.
A bad pilot bearing can also cause drag but is very rare. it's a very big bearing for the job it has to do & usually will last twice the cars lifetime.

Thank you for the travel distance information. I will do an exact measurement to verify.

I'm not sure about disengaging versus dragging. When the clutch is in and i try to shift into gear the car will start to roll forward. While running the tranny does not want to shift into reverse. It grinds but can be forced. When the engine is running and i'm gear, i can put the clutch in and come to a complete stop.

I've bled the system several times. The pedal linkage goes the full stroke of the MC. I di not look at the pilot bearing while the tranny was out... Doh

So i can throw out the tranny being issue. Suspects are slave cylinder and clutch coponents.

Yes, it's dragging very badly, not dis-engaging completely.
If the pedal isn't mushy from air in the system or have a lot of freeplay, then you have a clutch problem.

^^^x2 w allencr said

Short update:

I was short on my guessimate, my slave cylinder output is only 1/4". Now i'm crossing off the clutch components as a problem. My new oem unit does not arrive until Wednesday.

Another question: Does anyone install banjo bolts to their slave system? My header ends up real close to my flex line. I would like to get a 90 to route away from it.

I"m check over the system in the mean time. I'm suspicious of the new refab master cylinder from napa. Inside the car keep finding streaks of brake fluids on the trim. The master cylinder appears clean and dry. I keep cleaning the trim, but it returns. I was leaking fluid for several weeks so assume it is just residual fluid leftover from the leak. I'm keeping an eye on this area to watch for new leaks. I'm tempted to get another master cylinder just in case, Its a faulty unit...

I wouldn't mess with it, I'd just take it back & exchange it,or refund..but seriously consider buying a brand new MC, genuine aisin if possible...rpmauto here in the classifieds carries it

Finally back on the road! Thanks for the information, support and help.

I installed a new slave cylinder and flex hose with a banjo bolt. I also adjust the play on the pedal a little. Now the shifting is better than before.