Front wheel bearings, brake lines and caliper questions

[BlackStar]

I understand how to do them,(there is also a great write up on this site i think), but I am confused about getting replacment bearings. Apparently, there is an inner bearing, an outer bearing and a seal (judging form the diagram form the haynes book). To my dismay, it seems that I can't buy all three together as a set, I have to buy them one at a time. Is that true? I would like to buy form rock auto, but if autozone sells them as a set I'll go there. Whichever is cheaper frankly.

I also want to splurge a bit and get speed bleeders. I know where to purchase those; I would like to get new brake lines. Mine aren't broken, but they are in sorry shape( i am upgrading the front brake system, might as well not cheap out). Worth it price wise to go stainless steel? And any place to buy SS brakes lines, so I can judge for myself?

Now that I think about it, I might as well rebuild the front calipers. Iknow its easy to buy a kit, and just follow the instructions. What i remmeber from shop class is that compressed air is used to blow out the piston. I don't have an air compressor, is their another way to extract the piston form the caliper? I'll probably just take it to a shop to have it done, but its nice to stay at how when your all grimy lol

[MisterJerk]

check out some of the sponsored companies on the forum.
i got some stainless brake lines, the difference is night and day compared to the stock ones.

for front wheel bearings and seals, a couple companies on here can sell you the whole kit for a great price, shipped to you.

now the front caliper rebuild, i havent done that yet, but i will be doing them both as soon as i get the rebuild kit from Cabe toyota.
If i have to use compressed air to get the pistons out, i may just take the pads off the caliper and use the brake pedal to push the piston out enough to grab it.

[Deuce Cam]

I understand how to do them,(there is also a great write up on this site i think), but I am confused about getting replacment bearings. Apparently, there is an inner bearing, an outer bearing and a seal (judging form the diagram form the haynes book). To my dismay, it seems that I can't buy all three together as a set, I have to buy them one at a time. Is that true? I would like to buy form rock auto, but if autozone sells them as a set I'll go there. Whichever is cheaper frankly.

I also want to splurge a bit and get speed bleeders. I know where to purchase those; I would like to get new brake lines. Mine aren't broken, but they are in sorry shape( i am upgrading the front brake system, might as well not cheap out). Worth it price wise to go stainless steel? And any place to buy SS brakes lines, so I can judge for myself?

Now that I think about it, I might as well rebuild the front calipers. Iknow its easy to buy a kit, and just follow the instructions. What i remmeber from shop class is that compressed air is used to blow out the piston. I don't have an air compressor, is their another way to extract the piston form the caliper? I'll probably just take it to a shop to have it done, but its nice to stay at how when your all grimy lol

It looks like z1 put together a kit: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=1833

They were great to work with back in my Subaru days. I haven't used them in a few years though.

[Omni86]

Not sure about complete kits I've only pieced orders. Its a simple fairly simple task, pack bearings w fresh grease and take time with preload if you are unfamiliar with the process. Dont put the nut/washer/cotter pin to tight that it creates too much friction/resistance, if you hear grinding loosen it abit so wheel spins freely with mild resitance. I think its 5-9lbs but haynes will have it. Easy to adjust with wheel on later.

Steel lines are great unless you run ruff, off/semi off road. Rubber will take rock hits better in my experience.

[HASport AE86]

Spend the money and get good SS lines. I buy only Goodridge. Lifetime warranty. You can google pics the ching chong SS line knock off failures. Scary stuff.

[LongGrain]

88Rotors in the vendor section of the classifieds.

best prices i've found on the internet.

[Deuce Cam]

The goodridge lines are a little cheaper through tirerack.com

I got them for the warranty.and so far I'm happy. I wish there was an outer coating for the ss braid though. They also didn't come with any retention clips, etc. to fasten the fittings on the front lines to the strut casing - I ended up using E clips from the hardware store along with the stock brake line clips.

[MisterJerk]

88Rotors in the vendor section of the classifieds.

best prices i've found on the internet.

^^ what he said. And they are coated over the stainless braid

[ssspacely]

I am trying to find the write-up for replacing the front wheel bearings. I think the author was assassin. I can't remember. I used to have it bookmarked but my computer crashed. Please help. Thanks.

[gotzoom?]

The service manual has pretty clear and easy to understand steps with pictures. You can use the old bearing race in place of the SST described in the service manual to press in the new races.

[Deuce Cam]

And they are coated over the stainless braid

They are?

Perhaps they changed that at some point. I bought mine new 1 year ago and there's no coating covering the outside for the ss braid.

[MisterJerk]

mines are coated in a flexible clear rubber like sleeve. I bought them over a year ago, I think i got them from 88.. maybe i got them from RPM, I cant remember now.. damn getting old

[LongGrain]

just got mine from 88 rotors yesterday and they are definitely coated.

[Deuce Cam]

Thanks for confirming, it's good they added that feature. When I got my goodridge lines I was disappointed that they didn't have a coating for the braid, especially considering my old name ss lines (I'm assuming ebay) did.

Good thing they have a lifetime warranty haha.

[ras0ne]

I just replaced all these on my rolla.

To get the bearings out you're going to need a set of punches to hammer out the inner and outer bearing rings off the hub.

Having a vice to clamp the hubs down in is helpful also.

I was able to tap in the new bearing rings with the same punch. I just lightly tapped around the ring until it was fully seated.

I got all the seals and bearings from Orielly's, it didn't cost me that much.

You're also going to need some grease and some brake cleaner to clean out all the old gunk.

As for the stainless lines.

I did these when I was doing everything else, including a stainless clutch line.

In my opinion, stopping power seems to be the same, but the pedals are stiffer and a bit more responsive.

Just look at it as bringing your ride to the 21st century.

None of the above was hard...just a little tedious.