HELP! keys wont turn at all!

[Esenpai]

So since my birthday (feb 1st) my car wont Start because the keys wont turn in the ignition. Some luck i have right? I dont know why this is happening. It just started randomly And it Doesnt happen every time. and i keep getting stuck places and have To sit there for 30 mins trying to Start my car. Its getting really annoying.
What am i supposed to do? Im stuck somewhere right now.....

[Jacare]

Is your steering wheel locked up?

[Esenpai]

No...im not a moron.

[Tora]

Easy answer could be that your key is worn too much to work. My original key is so dulled that it's mostly brass that is visible: not the plating. It doesn't work to open my hatch anymore. If you have a spare, have you tried it?

[Esenpai]

Easy answer could be that your key is worn too much to work. My original key is so dulled that it's mostly brass that is visible: not the plating. It doesn't work to open my hatch anymore. If you have a spare, have you tried it?

well I have another key from another hachi.. Its started my car before when I couldn't find the key because well anything that thin enough will start these cars.
I finally did get it to start but I have to be constantly jiggling the key up and down while turning it. I dont think its the key as much as its the tumbler itself.

[BlackStar]

spray it with WD40? Worked on my door locks....

[Esenpai]

spray it with WD40? Worked on my door locks....

its not my locks its my ignition.

[Esenpai]

Is your steering wheel locked up?

sorry for being so rash I was just really annoyed and frustrated.

Sorry man.

I was there for a good two hours I found that I have to jiggle and turn the key fast.

le sigh

[Esenpai]

solution.... double check ignition switch playboy
might be a short

ignition tumbler is worn.....

key is worn.....

Where do you check the ignition switch? the little thing that pops up and down on the side of the ignition lost its spring it fell out while I was pushing on it.

all I can really see is a ground coming off the steering column and its hard to get to all the wires without ripping the whole face of the dash out.... which started doing to my shell to try to swap over the ignition. but that **** wouldnt come off..

the key is worn and I'm pretty sure the tumblr is worn too.

but at least I figured a way to start it for the time being.

[Red]

"Where do you check the ignition switch?"
The ignition switch is a white nylon switch assembly that is held on to the bottom of the ignition cylinder with one blind brass screw. If you stick your head by the pedals and wrap your legs around the driver's seat, you still can't really see that screw. It has a slotted head, fwiw. Undo the screw and the switch assembly comes off the cylinder. A parts diagram really helps, unless you pull the steering column so you can see what you're working on.

But that doesn't matter, a bad switch will cause electrical problems, not mechanical ones. You've got a WORN KEY OR WORK CYLINDER or both, end of story. And the way to fix that is first to have a new key made from the key codes (you do have the key codes, or a spare key, don't you?) and then to pull the cylinder and have it re-keyed or replaced. Probably cheaper to replace but a locksmith can rekey it, putting in new "teeth" so it works with your existing key. Since your key still works in the DOOR CYLINDERS, the odds are the key is good enough and the ignition cylnder is worn out.

Any locksmith can tell you what you have to do.

Removing the ignition cylinder is a PITA, if I remember you have to pull the steering wheel and take off the column garnish (the plastic trim) to get in there so there's a lot of labor but not a lot of parts money. There's also a locking bar in the bottom of the cylinder, which is why your steering column locks up and sometimes sticks even when the cylinder is working properly.

Fix the cylinder/key, don't chase wiring problems unless you've got some reason to think they exist. From what you've said? you don't.

[ga_goosh]

I would pull out the passenger side lock there is a 4 digit number take that number to the dealer they will make a brand new key that was NOT cut from the original. it is litterally a brand new key and not a copy. i had to do this since my ignition did simmilar things and it helped a lot. also there is some key graffite that can be squeezed into the ignition for lubrication. then if it still continues i would then look into the ignition.

[Red]

The only moving part in the actual ignition switch is like a wiper arm for the contacts. If that jammed, it would almost for sure also short things out, creating a small fire or blowing fuses. It would be terribly odd it that could jam--without causing a short--and block the cylinder from turning.

"When you hear hoofbeats, think horses not zebras."
Horses are more likely than zebras. Simple cylinder/key wearing out, more likely than bad switch. Or you drop the column, unscrew the switch, look for problems, try to reassemble without loosing that RFPITA blind screw. (A hex head would have made it easier, or at least a small bolt.)

Toyota followed the example of Ford, with keys that can be inserted upside down and still work because they are cut on both sides. The problem is, that creates a sloppy cylinder and problems as the keys and cylinders age. This is a flaw in the way Toyota does things. Convenient, but guaranteed to fail sooner.

[Esenpai]

"Where do you check the ignition switch?"
The ignition switch is a white nylon switch assembly that is held on to the bottom of the ignition cylinder with one blind brass screw. If you stick your head by the pedals and wrap your legs around the driver's seat, you still can't really see that screw. It has a slotted head, fwiw. Undo the screw and the switch assembly comes off the cylinder. A parts diagram really helps, unless you pull the steering column so you can see what you're working on.

But that doesn't matter, a bad switch will cause electrical problems, not mechanical ones. You've got a WORN KEY OR WORK CYLINDER or both, end of story. And the way to fix that is first to have a new key made from the key codes (you do have the key codes, or a spare key, don't you?) and then to pull the cylinder and have it re-keyed or replaced. Probably cheaper to replace but a locksmith can rekey it, putting in new "teeth" so it works with your existing key. Since your key still works in the DOOR CYLINDERS, the odds are the key is good enough and the ignition cylnder is worn out.

Any locksmith can tell you what you have to do.

Removing the ignition cylinder is a PITA, if I remember you have to pull the steering wheel and take off the column garnish (the plastic trim) to get in there so there's a lot of labor but not a lot of parts money. There's also a locking bar in the bottom of the cylinder, which is why your steering column locks up and sometimes sticks even when the cylinder is working properly.

Fix the cylinder/key, don't chase wiring problems unless you've got some reason to think they exist. From what you've said? you don't.

I dont have the key codes. or a spare key I have a key from another 86 but not two for a single and thats no help. where do you even get the key codes?
well I mean any key will pretty much work in the door cylinders I only have the stock cylinder on the hatch because I couldnt get my solex to stay in place there. I do need a new key because mine is worn down to the brass. hopefully that helps a bit because I dont have the money for a new cylinder assembly. though my car came with two solex on the driver and passenger already and the stock cylinder for the hatch..... is the key code on the hatch?? if its not then im in a bit of a pickle.

[Esenpai]

I would pull out the passenger side lock there is a 4 digit number take that number to the dealer they will make a brand new key that was NOT cut from the original. it is litterally a brand new key and not a copy. i had to do this since my ignition did simmilar things and it helped a lot. also there is some key graffite that can be squeezed into the ignition for lubrication. then if it still continues i would then look into the ignition.

When I bought the car it had solex on driver and passenger... is there anywhere else the key code is on? and how much would that key run? seems expensive if you're buying it from the dealer....I'll try the key graphite too.

[KonaTrueno723]

Could this code be retrieved from our VIN# ?

[Red]

Your car came with solex locks but you replaced them with Toyota cylinders?? Or you've still got solex on the doors?

The key code would have been on plugs (punchouts) that dealers are supposed to deliver with the car, probably long ago lost. Or on the bill of sale, again probably lost. Any locksmith can take the trunk cylinder and "read" the code from it, then key up new door and ignition cylinders to match. I have no idea if there are numbers tagged with it. But even if you walk in to a locksmith (dealers usually charge more or job it out) and say "takee fixee" I can't see it costing you less than $20-25 per cylinder to have them rekeyed. If you can't afford to fix or replace the ignition cylinder, the only "free" solution would be to pull your cylinder, remove all the teeth (pins, whatever you call them) so any key fits and turns it--but then, you'd also be making the car very easy to steal.

[Esenpai]

Your car came with solex locks but you replaced them with Toyota cylinders?? Or you've still got solex on the doors?

The key code would have been on plugs (punchouts) that dealers are supposed to deliver with the car, probably long ago lost. Or on the bill of sale, again probably lost. Any locksmith can take the trunk cylinder and "read" the code from it, then key up new door and ignition cylinders to match. I have no idea if there are numbers tagged with it. But even if you walk in to a locksmith (dealers usually charge more or job it out) and say "takee fixee" I can't see it costing you less than $20-25 per cylinder to have them rekeyed. If you can't afford to fix or replace the ignition cylinder, the only "free" solution would be to pull your cylinder, remove all the teeth (pins, whatever you call them) so any key fits and turns it--but then, you'd also be making the car very easy to steal.

Yeah all those are lost forever. yes it came solexes and they are still on there besides the hatch which is the original cylinder. I Called some locksmith who Did Auto work and he said itd be around $150 to $200 and yeah. Cant afford that. For The time being the jiggle method i devised is working so yeah im good until it really wont start i suppose.