DIY: Rebuild Rear Caliper

OEM Rebuild Kit
Less than $40 at the dealer

Level of hardness: 6/10

Time: 5-6 Hours

-long snap ring pliers
-flat head screw driver
-assortment of picks
-rear caliper compresion tool
-brake cleaner
-scotch bright pad
-a lot of shop rags
-17mm wrench
-14mm wrench
-needle nose pliers







1) Loose up the E-Brake Cable inside the car (two 10mm Nuts). It makes the job easier. Remove Caliper and E-Brake Cable linkage.

2) Once removed, pull out the piston from the caliper.





3) Remove the Rubber boot/Slider.



4) Remove snap ring. (get a GOOD snap ring piler.) Be sure not to scratch the side wall of the piston. Pull out the retainer and spring with a PICK. (don’t turn it upside down. You might lose something.)Then pull out the threaded rod with come along with two washer thing.





5) Remove E-Brake Spring and brackets. Remove E-Brake crank.




6) Remove the E-Brake crank boot. Theres a tab where you can pop it out.

[IMG]http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac103/taken_by_koshoy/Rebuild%20caliper/Rebuild11_zpsa112c21f.jpg[/IMG

7) Clean it good and well with the scotch bright pad. Take your time here.



8) Insert the new E-Brake Crank boot back on. Used the old one as a spacer and hammer it in.




9) Grease up the E-Brake Crank shaft and the bearing inside. This is where the Bore sits on. Turn the bearing so the opening is facing out towards you. Move the E-Brake Crank to make sure everything works fine.




10) Grease up the end of E-Brake threaded rod and Bore.



11) Put the threaded rod washer lock back in. Make sure it FLUSH with the bottom.



12) Put the spring washer back in.



13) This is the hardest part and where you will spend more of your time. I spent like 2.5 freaking hours trying to put the snap ring back, my first time. Second time, 30-45 min.

A) You can do it the hard way by pushing down the spring while trying to hold the snap ring piler on one hand and on the other hand, with a flat head trying to push the spring and the snap ring in. I didn’t have any luck. It’s harder then it seem.

B) Or you can do it my way. Use small zip ties and compressor the spring. This way you don’t have to worry about compressing. Makes it a little easier but it’s still kinda hard to put the snap ring on. Probably get it on the 10-15 try. No joke. haha Double check to make sure the Brake Crank is working properly, if so put back the E-Brake spring back on.

Before


After



14) Insert the new O-ring.



15) Compressor the piston back on. Make sure you clean it well. I used a little brake fluid to easy it up.



16) Insert the new boot and ring. and and your DONE

Can the roller bearing for the hand brake crank be replaced? I wrote down the bearing number on the last pair I rebuilt.

I bought the SST for compressing the spring to make fitting the circlip an easy job, I gave the parts man the number to order and hoped for the best.
You can make an SST from an old damaged piston and a nut. I can take a picture of the SST if required.

This should be a sticky!

jdm86gtz wrote:Can the roller bearing for the hand brake crank be replaced? I wrote down the bearing number on the last pair I rebuilt.

I bought the SST for compressing the spring to make fitting the circlip an easy job, I gave the parts man the number to order and hoped for the best.
You can make an SST from an old damaged piston and a nut. I can take a picture of the SST if required.

Not sure. Want to say yes.

I bet that SST cost a lot for a one time use. Haha yeah take a pix of that SST. Want to see how it looks like

Really sweet walk through!
Definitely going to reference this when I attempt mine =)

Make sure there is NO/ZERO corrosion dirt smegma nicks burrs etc. in the cylinder's groove, use a dentist mirror & bright light.
USE ASSEMBLY GREASE on the seal & piston.

You'd be surprised how cheap it was and I've done at least 5 sets maybe more so it has more than paid for itself by now.

Awesome write up thanks man.

WOW i wish i see this write up last year when i have brake problem
thank for the great write up.....