just got my prothane bushing kit in the mail and am starting with my 4-links. Got them out and I cant get the old crush bushings out!

I have seen people cut the rim off of one side and then heat the link with a torch to loosen them up. The onky othereffective way I have heard is to press them out with a shop press.

Any other ways to do this?

Thanks in advance
Dinkers

This is one way. @3:15

http://youtu.be/gd_692PZt38

This is what the OEM trailing link bushes look like when removed...



These ones are in prime condition. I pressed them out using a socket
a few millimeters smaller in diameter than the barrel of the bush.
The bushes look as so they must have been replaced not long before
I got the car, but I had a set of TRD rubber bushes to install. Now
the OEM bushes are in my spares collection.

The crush sleeve has teeth on both ends designed to bite into the
bracket when the bolt is tightened, and stop the sleeve from rotating.
The sleeve is bonded to the rubber.

Poly bushes are lubed and designed to rotate on the sleeve, so it is
not a good idea to try and re-use the crush sleeve from the OEM
bush. Use the metal sleeve that comes with the poly bushes.

Cheers... jondee86

if you're talking about the metal sleeve that's normally around the stock bushing, that needs to STAY IN the arm. Burn or press the stock rubber bushing out, leave the metal shell/sleeve in, and put your poly bushings in.

Im talking about removing the rubber bushing from the 4link. I dont plan on using the old bushing or the old sleeve.

I tried pushing them out with hand tools and tried drilling one out but they are fused to the inside of the 4link. It seems like heating up the 4link is my best bet at this point.

Thanks for all of the input! Ill post up once I get them out!

If you drill through the rubber in a bunch of spots all around the bushings you should be able to push the center pin out, and then the rest of the rubber. Be careful not to drill into the control arm. If you still can't get all the rubber out try dousing it in Pb blaster and letting it sit overnight, then try again.

Are you talking about the 5th link? The bar that runs horizontally?
http://www.hachiroku.net/5link

I just replaced all the bushings on my rear end, and one side of the 5th link does have a metal sleeve that the rubber bushing sits inside of. I used a press to get it out, but I almost couldn't get it to move. It finally started to budge and then came right out easily. Also, the bushings I got (from T3) would not fit with that metal sleeve in there, but it might depend on the kit.
All the other bushings have the metal sleeve on the inside like jondees picture there. Those come right out easily with a press.

Burn it out w. a torch from home depot. Wear a mask and safety goggles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lihtyALKUvI

Grant wrote:Are you talking about the 5th link? The bar that runs horizontally?
http://www.hachiroku.net/5link

I just replaced all the bushings on my rear end, and one side of the 5th link does have a metal sleeve that the rubber bushing sits inside of. I used a press to get it out, but I almost couldn't get it to move. It finally started to budge and then came right out easily. Also, the bushings I got (from T3) would not fit with that metal sleeve in there, but it might depend on the kit.
All the other bushings have the metal sleeve on the inside like jondees picture there. Those come right out easily with a press.

I was talking about all of them haha. All of the bushings on the car have melded with the partsthey go in.got my bushings from them as well. Ill have to keep that in mind. Thanks for the heads up!

I have ended up having to heat the part the bushings are in until the outer layer of rubber is melted enough to push out.

Take it to a machine shop, leave all of them and $30, and they will come back fine without your vice bent and socket and washers stuck in your bleeding forehead...

Just an advice if you don't have proper press and sst to push them out safely.


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I just used a propane torch. If you go this route, have a fire extinguisher handy(required)