Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

aceforever
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Wed Mar 30, 2016 7:07 pm

The distributor came today!

Image
Image

Part number: 19100-16080
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And it has the 24+4 tooth gear setup that I was looking for.
Image

Cost: $72.78
Shipping: $46.87 via EMS
Total Cost: ~$120

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Tue Apr 05, 2016 11:57 pm

ISCV update:

Finally had time to work on the idle air control valve. I looked up the schematics on some pages and it seems like center wire is +12V and one wire closed the valve, while the other one opens the valve.

I then tested it with a 9V battery, putting + in the middle wire. Then tested each side to verify which one is which.
Looks like on the BMW harness, white/red is the +12V, white/yellow is open, white/green is the close.

Firstly, I needed to take off the old nonfunctional thermostatic idle up valve. Taking it off felt like surgery. I was delicately unclamping the hose clamps and plugging them up so the least amount of coolant leaked out. I also took the negative battery terminal off and put some plastic over the alternator (lesson learned from last time)

Here's the old idle valve. I looped the coolant nipples with the original hose.
Image

I cut the other hose so it makes a nice small loop.
Image

Here's my new setup. I modified the support bracket and secured it to where the GTS coolant overflow used to sit. Don't mind the electrical tape. I'll find a way to step down from the ISCV to the hose connecting to the vacuum distribution box. This is just a testing rig.
Image

It took a lot of trial and error with the "period" or pulse. The default was 0.0ms, which is suspiciously wrong. I looked up a bunch of places and it seems like stepper motors are around 2-6ms, I couldn't find any rotary type numbers in the moment. So I tried 6ms, and then 2ms, then 10ms, none of them worked. I got pretty defeated after that. Turned off the engine, double checked the wires. I was wondering if the numbers were too low, since the manual says 0-50ms. So I maxed out the number. It didn't do anything while the engine was running. I turned off the car and started it up again. This was what worked initially! I took a peak at what the rotary valve was doing and it was fluttering about. So I repeated the process with 30ms, then finally 20ms. Which seemed to be a good spot for it.

I then adjusted the idle section of the fuel map, and the fuel post start enrichment map, and fuel-coolant priming map.
Also adjusted throttle pump so they work with the new setup.

Anyways, with a lot more tweaking I got this during hot start:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMYQhJGHhMg

It idles at 878rpm + 314rpm (start)

Will test again once the engine is cold.

EDIT:
Measured some of the sizes.

Bosch Idle Valve measured in diameter:
Air inlet: 26.5mm with ridge at 27.5mm
Outlet: 24mm with ridge at 25mm

Vacuum Distribution Box hose:
inner diameter ~8-9mm

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Wed Apr 06, 2016 3:07 am

It seems you did OK :)

This thread...
http://www.rx7club.com/haltech-forum-62 ... ost1480413
... (scroll down a couple of posts) plus the info in the E6X HELP file cover the BAC setup
procedure reasonably well. By selecting one PWM output as BAC Valve and the other as
BAC/BAC2 Slave you are setting one output as the inverted mirror of the other. This gives
you the "push-pull" control of the two coils in the valve.

Then the % values in the Idle Control Options page set the Duty Cycle for the under certain
conditions. Generally speaking, 100% DC should drive the valve all the way open/closed in
one direction, and zero DC should all the way in the opposite direction. That is, 100% DC
represents 12V on one coil and zeroV on the other.

The only thing that is not clear is the relationship between ms and Hertz ? I drove my ISCV
at 250 Hz which I figure to be 4ms. However your experimentation and the above referenced
article both found a much higher frequency to work better. In reality the valve does not "pulse"
as providing that the frequency of the PWM signal is high enough, it is seen by the valve as
a simple variable voltage supply (think light dimmer). If the PWM frequency is set too low,
the valve will buzz like that "massager" your g/f keeps in the bottom drawer of her dresser ;)

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Wed Apr 06, 2016 9:11 pm

It's so nice hearing your kind words.

Also thanks for that thread! I found this gem in there:
On the 13BT motor which I am using as an example, the I have found to work
well is around 24ms. Others may find values that differ, so use whatever works best.


Seems like my 20ms isn't so far off then! I lowered the number from 50ms down until the valve stopped fluttering and ended up with 20ms.

And also very funny on the massager ;)

Ended up with this setup:

ISCV outlet -> 1 inch inner dia hose -> 1" male threaded to 1/2" female threaded brass fitting -> 1/2" male threaded to 1/4" male barbed fitting
Between the two brass fittings, I used some teflon tape to prevent leaking. All hose to fitting joins are clamped to prevent leaks.
Image

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Thu Apr 07, 2016 12:09 am

Just thinking about that frequency versus ms thing... there is a reciprocal
involved, so that the ms goes up as the Hertz goes down. For example...
250 Hz = 4 ms
200 Hz = 5 ms
150 Hz = 6.66 ms
100 Hz = 10 ms
50 Hz = 20 ms
25 Hz = 40 ms

I'm told that lower frequencies give more accurate control, but are more likely
to generate "buzzing". The suggestion was to use the lowest frequency that worked
without buzzing, and it seems that you got there intuitively :)

You have made a tidy installation. However, I suspect that given the size of the
hose you are using to get idle air into the engine, it will not be capable of supplying
ALL the idle air for the engine. Essentially air will be leaking into the engine by way
of the throttles or other "fixed orifice" leakage paths, and the ISCV will be controlling
the additional air required to stabilize idle between the hot and cold idle limits.

Nothing wrong with that strategy... it just occurred to me when looking at the size
of the ISCV inlet tube on the 20V ISCV which is more like 15mm dia. It is designed
to handle ALL the idle air to the engine, and the engine will stall if the inlet tube
is blocked off.

BTW, your engine sounded pretty crisp when you were goosing it up in your vid :)

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Thu Apr 07, 2016 8:58 am

It's great to hear when I did the right thing! I feel like I'm on a streak here. Haha, but I should keep my ego in check. I hope I didn't miss anything, please do let me know when I'm doing something wrong. I'm open to learning new things and redoing work when it's done poorly.

I think you might be right on the ISCV not being able to provide all the air necessary. When the engine is warmed up and started, ISCV can be blocked off entirely and the engine will still run. The throttle bodies must be providing enough air leakage for the engine to run.

Looking at the Vacuum distribution box, it's odd that it was designed with such a small hose nipple for idle inlet. Perhaps it was designed with the strategy you mentioned, one where you need to have some air from some other orifice.

For the time being, I think it is acceptable to keep this setup. Making the throttle bodies leak less seems like it would require modification of vacuum distribution box and other modifications.

jondee86 wrote:BTW, your engine sounded pretty crisp when you were goosing it up in your vid :)

That is music to my ears to hear that from you! Thank you so much for helping me out so far. I think I'm getting the throttle pump adjustment pretty close so it doesn't go super lean or rich on sudden gas pedal movements.

---

I replaced driver side popup headlight assembly since it was deformed. I made sure to touch up some of the rust spots with rust converter and sprayed it with some black primer on the replacement.

I also torqued up all the suspension bits underneath the car. Although my torque wrench doesn't go higher than 60Nm. I'm hoping I torqued them up enough that I could drive to the alignment shop to get them torque it down to factory specs.

Anyways, here's a picture of the carbon stuff. Still needs a bit work on fitment though. Need to enlarge the covers and popup assembly bolt holes a bit more so I can make the gaps even. But it's not looking too bad.
Image

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Thu Apr 07, 2016 2:05 pm

jondee86 wrote:In reality the valve does not "pulse" as providing that the frequency of the PWM
signal is high enough, it is seen by the valve as a simple variable voltage supply.

Probably should clarify this a bit, as I have a small PWM idle-up valve for electrical
load on my car that DOES pulse !! It is a two-wire valve and when it is active it sounds
like a tiny steam engine "puffing" away under the hood. It is driven by the factory AE92
ECU and obviously runs at a frequency of somewhere around 4-5Hz which is low enough
to let the valve pulse open/closed.

When the larger IAC valves are driven at higher frequencies, the rotational inertia of the
valve and the short duration of the pulses result in the valve "hovering" at the % open set
by the ECU. Technically the valve is pulsing, but the pulses are too small to be detected
as movement. Same as an incandescent lamp pulses at 50 or 60Hz.

And I should also mention that the 20V ISCV is a somewhat special case among older cars.
Most will have a fixed orifice controlled by an idle air screw, and likey a thermostatically
controlled idle-up for cold starts. The electrical ISCV will be a small valve (often more than
one) that compensates for extra electrical or mechanical load on the engine. Because the
20V ISCV controls all the idle air for the engine, it can compensate for all the variables
that can affect the engines idle speed... and so it needs to be larger :)

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Sat Apr 09, 2016 9:59 am

That's an interesting tidbit. Always learning from you :)

I've been playing more. Looks like I was wrong with my earlier statements. With the PWM period, and it seems like whether if it's 4ms or 20ms, it would work. I think the reason why it wouldn't work earlier was that I didn't restart the ECU (turning ign off and on again) not because 4ms would not work.

It also seems like the E6X likes to close and open the ISCV every few seconds on starts. It fluctuates between open and close. Is this a diagnostic thing? It's actually quite annoying since during cold start, I need as much air I can out of the small idle inlet. I've replaced the brass barbed fitting from 1/4" to 3/8" and stretched the hose over it. It seems to help but the open/close diagnostic is still preventing me from a clean cold start. If there was only a way to keep it open for a longer period of time.

With a 2nd crank it usually starts working better though. Can't really tell if it's because the ISCV was already opened, or if it's because there's more fuel in the manifold.

I've installed a crankcase ventilation filter for the time being. Not sure if an oil catch can is necessary or not. "K&N 62-1600RD Vent Air Filter" About $14 on Amazon.
Image

Also installed a no name motocycle air filter from China. "AUDEW Motorcycle Air Filter Dirt Pocket Bike ATV Pit Bike POD 28mm". $8
Image

I've had to modify the CF popup headlight covers a little bit because my popup assembly isn't hanging exactly straight. I accidentally took off a bolt head from before. Need to deal with that at some point. But currently modified the headlight covers so the gaps are even.
Image

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Sat Apr 09, 2016 3:04 pm

I think I figured out the hunting. I think it's because I set the cold open position too high. I'll have to keep on adjusting it until it's just right.

Today I took the car in for an alignment and while I was able to get a lower negative degree camber, the camber plate settings are still polar opposites.

Image

Seems like we're back at square one. To recap I performed the following:
  • Replaced bent tension rod, and other side
  • Replaced inner tie rods
  • Set ride height to similar height in the front

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Sat Apr 09, 2016 7:19 pm

aceforever wrote:I think I figured out the hunting. I think it's because I set the cold open position
too high. I'll have to keep on adjusting it until it's just right.

Looking at the procedures in manual (which are a bit cumbersome) I see that
there is a Cold Min Position. This one appears to set the minimum position
to which the BAC will close while the engine temp is below the selected min temp.

Setting the Cold Min Position to a couple of % below the desired cold idle % open
should act as a "stall saver" by preventing the BAC from overshooting the target
cold idle percentage open. At least that is how I think it should work. And yes,
as you are setting up a closed loop idle control system, it will take a fair amount
of trial and error to get it working like a factory ECU.

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Sat Apr 09, 2016 7:38 pm

aceforever wrote:Today I took the car in for an alignment and while I was able to get a lower
negative degree camber, the camber plate settings are still polar opposites.

That is a reasonable alignment with the front camber being biased towards
competition rather than street driving. If the minimum amount of camber you
can achieve on the worst side is negative 2.8 deg, it would suggest that something
is bent. And since you have mentioned that it appears the car was in a front end
accident, having something beside the tension rod bent is feasible.

It could be a suspension component, or it could be the chassis or inner guard. If
there are no telltale signs of damage, it may be be more trouble than it is worth
to track down the cause. Your car should now drive straight without any tendency
to pull left or right, and turn in pretty good :) The downside if there is one, will
be a little more wear on the inner edge of the front tires, and maybe a bit of
"tramlining" over longitudinal ridges in the road.

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Sun Apr 10, 2016 8:25 pm

jondee86 wrote:Looking at the procedures in manual (which are a bit cumbersome) I see that
there is a Cold Min Position. This one appears to set the minimum position
to which the BAC will close while the engine temp is below the selected min temp.

Setting the Cold Min Position to a couple of % below the desired cold idle % open
should act as a "stall saver" by preventing the BAC from overshooting the target
cold idle percentage open. At least that is how I think it should work. And yes,
as you are setting up a closed loop idle control system, it will take a fair amount
of trial and error to get it working like a factory ECU.


Ahh thanks for the explanation. I didn't know I was opening another can of worms here with yet another closed loop system!

It does seem to idle much better with much higher Cold Min. I think I set the Cold Open too low and will need to raise that to have it start in one key turn. Today I had to crank it three times to get it started.

jondee86 wrote:It could be a suspension component, or it could be the chassis or inner guard. If
there are no telltale signs of damage, it may be be more trouble than it is worth
to track down the cause. Your car should now drive straight without any tendency
to pull left or right, and turn in pretty good :) The downside if there is one, will
be a little more wear on the inner edge of the front tires, and maybe a bit of
"tramlining" over longitudinal ridges in the road.


I was debating about letting it go and focus on other things. But I think it'll always be an annoyance on the back of my mind haha. Perhaps, in time, I will figure this out.

---

For now I'm enjoying being able to take the car out and drive it around on these nicer days.

This video was shot after I torqued down all the suspension parts. This was before the alignment, it felt a bit funny, but was pulling straight (I made sure caster is the same on each side by eyeballing it)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DcZyyvkF24

Went to another meet with some of my FRS/BRZ friends too.
Image

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Sun Apr 10, 2016 11:01 pm

aceforever wrote: Today I had to crank it three times to get it started.

Tell me about it :) Because my aftermarket ECU supplied extra fuel by opening the injectors
for longer when starting from cold, and the ISCV supplied extra air, I deleted the cold start
injector feed from the fuel rail. Now I am back on the stock ECU and have the thermostatic
idle-up valve for extra air, but no cold start injector. The first crank does nothing but wet
down the cold surfaces. The second crank may or may not get a cough. By the third crank
there is enough fuel in cylinders to get the engine to catch and stumble into life !!!

Then it will idle at 2200-2300rpm for 3 or 4 minutes before slowly starting to taper down
as the engine starts to warm up. Old school technology at its best !! You better believe
that I am looking forward to the day when I have a new ECU and get the engine starting
like a modern car.

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Sun Apr 10, 2016 11:37 pm

HAHAHA. That sounds like my car. Am I being too frugal with my fuel prime timings? Perhaps I need additional air during cranking.

jondee86 wrote:Old school technology at its best !!

I have the sentiment that sometimes old technology can go to the discard pile. Especially the old thermostat ISCVs given the luck I've had with them.

I hope you get your new ECU soon :)

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Mon Apr 11, 2016 2:16 am

aceforever wrote: Perhaps I need additional air during cranking.

I haven't checked the manual, but you want your ISCV to drive all the way open
while the engine is cranking. Maybe there is a control for this ? Once the engine
fires it should then close to whatever setting you have chosen for cold start.

Likewise, there should be a setting for adding extra fuel while cranking. The
engine needs a lot of extra fuel and air when cranking, and that was the function
of the thermostatic air valve and cold start injector on the 16V 4AGE's. You need
to be able to duplicate those conditions for a one crank start.

EDIT: Just FYI I hooked my WBO2 up and my engine (stock smallport) starting cold
from around 12-13 degC idled at 11.2 AFR. When warmed up it idles at 13.5 AFR.
So that confirms that 16V engines like to idle a bit lower than stoich.

Cheers... jondee86

PS: Must get my car cam working next time I go for a drive :)
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby strmrdr23 » Mon Apr 11, 2016 9:19 am

aceforever wrote:Went to another meet with some of my FRS/BRZ friends too.
Image


was this the FT86 Club cruise on 4/10 or something? i saw that. i wanna go to the next one, i hope.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Thu Apr 14, 2016 7:40 pm

jondee86 wrote:I haven't checked the manual, but you want your ISCV to drive all the way open
while the engine is cranking. Maybe there is a control for this ? Once the engine
fires it should then close to whatever setting you have chosen for cold start.

There isn't for the closed loop idle control, however in the haltech manual there's a "BAC2" Where you have an open loop idle control. There you can adjust start-up duty.

jondee86 wrote:Likewise, there should be a setting for adding extra fuel while cranking. The
engine needs a lot of extra fuel and air when cranking, and that was the function
of the thermostatic air valve and cold start injector on the 16V 4AGE's. You need
to be able to duplicate those conditions for a one crank start.

EDIT: Just FYI I hooked my WBO2 up and my engine (stock smallport) starting cold
from around 12-13 degC idled at 11.2 AFR. When warmed up it idles at 13.5 AFR.
So that confirms that 16V engines like to idle a bit lower than stoich.

Yeah, I've found that and it's the fuel prime map and the post-start enrichment map. I'll try to adjust them. I'll try to match those numbers, but 11.2 AFR seems a bit too rich right? I'm currently idling at 13 AFR cold then 14.7 warm.

jondee86 wrote:PS: Must get my car cam working next time I go for a drive :)

I would be very excited to see some of that when you get it working :)

strmrdr23 wrote:was this the FT86 Club cruise on 4/10 or something? i saw that. i wanna go to the next one, i hope.

They're called "86 Sessions" I'm not sure if it's the same group you're referring to. We had folks from Oregon drive up to Washington to meet us. It was pretty fun to see all the cars. It was 4/10 so perhaps we're talking about the same one?

---

Haven't been doing any serious work on the car lately. Got these nice reproduction Trueno mudflaps from Australia. They're great and fits right up. OEM fitment!

Image

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Thu Apr 14, 2016 8:38 pm

aceforever wrote:Yeah, I've found that and it's the fuel prime map and the post-start enrichment map.
I'll try to adjust them. I'll try to match those numbers, but 11.2 AFR seems a bit too rich
right? I'm currently idling at 13 AFR cold then 14.7 warm.

Good catch... just as well someone is checking what I say :oops: :D

I forgot that I don't have an O2 sensor hooked up to the ECU at the moment. That
means the ECU will not be making any corrections to the fuel... more or less running
in open loop when it should be in closed loop. So what I am reading on the wideband
may not be what I would have with a sensor hooked up.

I shall have to see if I can hook up the simulated narrow band output from the WBO2
to give a signal to the factory ECU. See if it changes things. From memory, when I had
ITB's on the engine it did warm idle close to stoich, and start from cold with an AFR of
around 12.8-13.0.

Mud flaps look good... wonder if they do them with other lettering ?

Cheers... jondee86
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persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Thu Apr 14, 2016 10:26 pm

Ah, that must be it! Good that you're taking care of it now. I suppose running rich too often is a bad thing?

jondee86 wrote:Mud flaps look good... wonder if they do them with other lettering ?

Thanks! They have them in Kouki Trueno:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221888413438

or Kouki Levin:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221888211469

Both currently at $170, shipping was another $25 for me

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Fri Apr 15, 2016 3:29 am

jondee86 wrote:PS: Must get my car cam working next time I go for a drive :)

Never posted a video before, so a bit to learn. Here are a couple of clips from
yesterday... and it will give you an idea of the country around Wellington. Lots
of hills and a few of these nice country roads...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qv8QndA4J-k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMkE7Wv_ad8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpROWEmBhRc

Where these clips are taken is only a few minutes from where I live... one of the
advantages of living on the edge of the city.

EDIT: These should be public now. Found one from a while back so I put that up
as well. Engine noise drowns out the music... but I can live with that ;)

Cheers... jondee86
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Fri Apr 15, 2016 8:07 am

The videos are set to private view only. Can you make them unlisted or public? Thanks! I'm excited to see!

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby Deuce Cam » Fri Apr 15, 2016 8:19 am

I also have a set of those same mudflaps from AUS on ebay. I got the ones that have the 'TOYOTA' emblem. They are nice, but I have 2 gripes: the emblems aren't quite level with the ground when installed, and they are made out of hard plastic so there's no give like the oem rubber flaps.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby BoostJunky » Fri Apr 15, 2016 1:10 pm

I didn't rear the whole thread but did you get the haltech running? I'm curious if youre tuning via VE? Mine will not start unless I select Injection time.
-1986 GT-S BT20v-

aceforever
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Fri Apr 15, 2016 6:10 pm

BoostJunky wrote:I didn't rear the whole thread but did you get the haltech running? I'm curious if youre tuning via VE? Mine will not start unless I select Injection time.

I don't see a VE option at all on my E6X, what model do you have?

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Fri Apr 15, 2016 6:11 pm

jondee86 wrote:EDIT: These should be public now. Found one from a while back so I put that up
as well. Engine noise drowns out the music... but I can live with that ;)


Wow those are nice roads out there! I'd like to drive something similar!

Deuce Cam wrote:I also have a set of those same mudflaps from AUS on ebay. I got the ones that have the 'TOYOTA' emblem. They are nice, but I have 2 gripes: the emblems aren't quite level with the ground when installed, and they are made out of hard plastic so there's no give like the oem rubber flaps.

Ahh! I didn't notice about the being level. They seem to be close when I put them on. But yes they're much harder than OEM rubber ones.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby BoostJunky » Fri Apr 15, 2016 8:32 pm

aceforever wrote:
BoostJunky wrote:I didn't rear the whole thread but did you get the haltech running? I'm curious if youre tuning via VE? Mine will not start unless I select Injection time.

I don't see a VE option at all on my E6X, what model do you have?


PS500. Are you using injection pulse? I'm curious how it runs on yours. I cannot find a way to smooth out the throttle response, it's sounds like its out of breathe when I blip the throttles at idle and its very jerky when I press/let go of the pedal quickly while driving.
-1986 GT-S BT20v-

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Fri Apr 15, 2016 9:59 pm

BoostJunky wrote:PS500. Are you using injection pulse? I'm curious how it runs on yours. I cannot find a way to smooth out the throttle response, it's sounds like its out of breathe when I blip the throttles at idle and its very jerky when I press/let go of the pedal quickly while driving.


I have an really old Haltech model so the settings are probably different. If you start a new thread on the forum and link us we can start to help you diagnose it :)

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Tue Apr 19, 2016 8:44 pm

Received wheels today! They are SSR Longchamp 15x7 -1 offset A face.

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14.6lbs if anyone is curious.
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Wed Apr 20, 2016 1:28 am

WOW !!! Much nice... very bling... many shine !!!! :D

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby strmrdr23 » Wed Apr 20, 2016 3:02 pm

one of my fave wheels!