Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

[aceforever]

Found some info (or misinformation):

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=73667

I was going to say, I've been under my own car and a lot of other AE86's many times and installed Goodridge lines within the last 2 weeks, haha.
There are either 5-lines or 7-lines (early models), however the 7-line models are no different, they just had an extra line on each front. The 5-line kit can be used on all AE86's.

So based on this, if I see two lines on front, then I'd need the two extra brake lines.

[aceforever]

Spent a couple hours doing preliminary wiring. Looking decent. Will finalize everything and torque it down.

[aceforever]

I ended up getting the 5 line kit for kouki models. I hope that's the right one!

I've been thinking about my higher than normal idle. You think my ITBs are suppose to run at 1500 rpm? I've been looking around for vacuum leaks but I can't find any.

I think the only other reason might be the ITBs need to be rebuilt as jondee86 has mentioned before. I called up carbs unlimited and they said they could take a look at it but will need to keep the car for a long period to diagnose and fix. Anything else I should do before taking the plunge?

[jondee86]

Just to clarify, the OEM rubber brake hoses were made up from two short
hoses joined nose to tail at the point where they clipped onto the strut. More
or less like this...



Replacement hoses usually make the front hoses as a single length, often with
a fitting (either fixed or sliding) for clipping into the lug on the strut. So a 7-pce
kit would have 4 short front hoses, and 3 rear hoses. A 5-pce kit would have 2 long
front hoses and 3 rear hoses. Either will work.

Cheers... jondee86

[aceforever]

Replacement hoses usually make the front hoses as a single length, often with
a fitting (either fixed or sliding) for clipping into the lug on the strut. So a 7-pce
kit would have 4 short front hoses, and 3 rear hoses. A 5-pce kit would have 2 long
front hoses and 3 rear hoses.

OH! I kind of guessed right then. 5 line kit should work just fine.

[jondee86]

Anything else I should do before taking the plunge?

Basically, if you have not been able to discover any vacuum leaks, one would
have to assume that the extra air is getting into the engine by leaking past
the throttle plates. If this is the case, you should be able to drop the idle by
blocking off the throttles... covering the open end of the bellmouths with some
kind of rigid material that will not cave in under vacuum.

Theoretically, if you cover the bellmouths completely, the engine should idle low
then stall. By leaving the covers ever so slightly open, and adjusting as required,
you should be able to regulate the airflow and thus engine speed. This may not
be very scientific, but it will prove leakage one way or the other. If the engine
continues to run with the throttles blocked off... you have a vacuum leak

Cheers... jondee86

[aceforever]

Ah, thanks a lot for the tip! I will try that once I get the calipers back on and the car back on the ground.

Another thing I noticed is that underneath the dash the clutch pedal area has some fluid leakage. Seems like from the clutch master. Looks like now is the time to deal with that.

EDIT: OH NO. I see paint peeling and rust!



EDIT2: I've been reading up on the differences between kouki and zenki clutch master cylinders. Apparently the kouki's reservoir is further away from the firewall and has a bushing near the clutch pedal.

I've found aftermarket part that looks to be for kouki: ($45)
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... bilityTab_

Since my master cyl is zenki, the solid lines wouldn't match up without me bending it a little, is that advisable?
Also it seems like this aftermarket part doesn't have the bushing clevis on there. Is it still worth it getting kouki just for the length away from firewall?

I see the zenki version for much cheaper: ($24)
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0015

I also found AISIN brand zenki version: ($45)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Corolla- ... 90&vxp=mtr

Or AISIN master zenki + slave ($84)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Corolla- ... 17&vxp=mtr

OEM kouki 31410-12182 is about $120 but is it worth the extra cost? I don't think it comes with the reservoir or other parts so I'll have to transplant my current parts like the clevis over assuming that would fit.

Someone mentioned on another thread that it's possible to use the AE92 master clutch cylinder, but you'll need to mod it. Take the lower screw post off, and sanding it down so your AE86 firewall post can fit through.

[jondee86]

If the zenki O'Reilly lines up and matches to what you have in the car
now... go with that. You should be able to swap over the linkage parts.
And get a new slave cylinder while you are in the shop, as chances are
it will need changing also.

Clutch cylinders are not a critical safety part, so no need to be buying
the OEM parts. By the way, those Aisin castings look like they were dug
out of a swamp !!!

Cheers... jondee86

[aceforever]

Update on the brake calipers:

Remember the sludge-filled cylinder? After soaking in EvapoRust it's now bare metal with some pitting at the bottom where the rust/sludge was. Since it's not going to touch the pistons I decided to leave them be.


Painting:



Rebuilding:


Test fit before torquing things down:



I feel like these calipers are in much better shape than before. The brackets were missing some of the anti-rattle pins as well. With the fresh coat of paint, it looks a whole lot newer too! Waiting for my Goodridge Stainless Steel G-Stop Brake Line kit to arrive before torquing everything down.

[YoShImUrA]

As I told you, great job, man! You made them look brand new!


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[aceforever]

Thanks YoShImUrA it's always great to hear your encouraging words.

Thanks Jondee86 for the advice! I actually found someone selling a never used aluminum clutch master cylinder for $10! I didn't notice that this clutch master cylinder was probably made for a different car? The bottom hole was actually threaded. I had to sand down the threads to actually get it to fit later on. Is this for the coupe? I saw on auto parts stores that they differentiate between hatch and coupe clutch master cylinders.


Getting to the rust spot was a big ordeal. I had to take off the brake booster and master cylinder and remove the clutch master cylinder.
Some of the bolts were really on there. I didn't have the right tools so I improvised:


Out comes the brake master cylinder. I used those flare nut wrenches as you mentioned before to not round them off while taking them off. It helped a lot!




The brake booster was SUPER HARD. I didn't want to take apart the dash or steering column. So I contorted my body into a weird shape with heads underneath, back partially on the seat, legs up. It was back breaking work, literally! I finally managed to get the brake booster off after struggling with it a bit.

The clutch master cyl bolt was also quite annoying to get. I ended up stacking up a bunch of different length adapters and a U-joint to be able to unbolt it.


And here it is the culprit. I noticed that cap doesn't tightly seal the reservoir. I think that contributed to introducing new brake fluid onto the firewall. The cap does fit tightly on the new clutch master cylinder though. I can't seem to get the clevis off (linkage parts). It's rusted on pretty good. I think I'll have to go to the junkyard to see if I can find any with a clevis. Perhaps I'll get lucky and find a bushing-type clevis from another Toyota vehicle (jondee86 you have any ideas?)


I used a screwdriver and sand paper to see what the damage was. It was very surprising to find a bunch of rust underneath the paint.


Currently soaking with Evapo-Rust on paper towel before using the Rust Converter.


While that is soaking. I took off the clutch pedal bracket to see if I can restore it. I took off the ignition safety switch before soaking and brushing with a wire brush.


After that, I'm planning to clean up the brake pedal while I have the brake booster off.

[YoShImUrA]

Whoa. Some dedicated work there. This car will be in top condition at this rate. I really like that you take your time to do things right once. Reminds me of that attitude I have when working on cars of "while at it", which has made me basically change the whole car from time to time, lol


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[aceforever]

Whoa. Some dedicated work there. This car will be in top condition at this rate. I really like that you take your time to do things right once. Reminds me of that attitude I have when working on cars of "while at it", which has made me basically change the whole car from time to time, lol

Thanks! I really hope so, then maybe I can get back at practicing driving a manual! You look like you were having lots of fun in your videos

At some point I wouldn't have to fix much things right? It's not just constantly fixing stuff right? Riiiight?

[YoShImUrA]

Lol. There's always something to do. Either to replace or change what you think that could be upgraded.

But yeah, there are "sweet plateaus" of wrenching, in which you just turn the key and drive. If you do your work well it should be more often than not


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[jondee86]

Brake/clutch fluid attacks paint and any spills need to be washed off with
water as soon as possible. I had a clutch cylinder that leaked down the inside
of the firewall and got under the carpet. Made a bit of a mess.

You have some fairly advanced corrosion going on there, so it is a good idea
to deal to as much as you can while you are under the dash. Most times I have
to get under there I end up taking the seat out... a lot easier on the back

I don't know what models would have a compatible clevis, but I should imagine
that any 80's vintage small Toyota should have something similar. Even other
makes, as the basic setup is much the same. As it happens, I have a spare
clutch master and slave that I bought simply because they were new parts that
someone was selling off cheap.

I may never use them, but if I do need to replace either, the parts are in the
garage. It's a habit you get into when working with older cars... grabbing
spares (lights, switches, window glass, radiator etc) simply because they are
getting harder to find, and one day you might need them.

Cheers... jondee86

PS: The brake master must go back onto the booster exactly as it came off.
Don't adjust the pushrod and don't lose the gasket (if there is one) between
the master and booster.

[totta crolla]

Some of those rusty parts may be candidates for this process:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4yYF8gSHdA

And Jondee is right, I have have a shed rammed full of parts that one day I might need. But.... I can't ever find

[aceforever]

Haha I was thinking of doing that at first! But EvapoRust does a good job too without electricity. I guess for bigger parts, it's probably cheaper to do the electrolysis method.

[aceforever]

I made a bit more progress again. I'm currently sick so things will have to wait for now.

Rust Treatment

I found some rust on the wheel well as well that was caused by the leaky fluids up top. Good thing I caught this as I could only see a speck of rust before scrapping off the rubber undercoat for rust treatment before sealing it up again


After trying to remove the rust with EvapoRust, I treated the bare metal with rust converter.



Remember this?

Now it's this!


I sprayed black enamel on the pieces so it'll resist rust more


Brakes
I found some AE86 Stainless Steel braided brake lines. One of my friends recommended a site with a pretty good deal at the time. They are called "thmotorsports.com". I bought the Kouki version from their site. Comes with 5 lines. Two longer ones for front. Three for rear.


Connected it up with the right torque. I learned a lot here. I think the best tip I have for future adventurers is to bolt up the bracket, then caliper, then connect the brake line caliper side first. Since stainless steel brake line are more rigid, it's hard to connect the hardline side first then the caliper side.


It's a good thing I replaced the brake lines too as the old OEM lines were starting to crack


New Parts



These Cibies look so retro. It's awesome! I used a 9V battery to test them and they both work Not sure about the lighting performance of them, so I'll definitely have to do a comparison later.

--



I also received some JDM Zenki Trueno tailights that say "Sprinter" on it. Found this on a seller here on the boards.

They look very nice with some blemishes which I'll have to touch up at some point when I'm finishing up the build.

[YoShImUrA]

Great to see the progress. Can't wait to see it with the Cibies amd zenki taillights on


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[jondee86]

Seeing those fog lights reminded me of a set that was on an old FWD
Celica I once owned. Similar to the lights in this pic...



They had motorised covers, and when you turned the fogs on you could
hear a zzzzzz as the cover rotated up out of the way. Only used them a
couple of times as we don't get a lot of fog. Eventually one of them got
a fault and the cover would just randomly start motoring open and closed
by itself, so I disconnected them. But the idea was good, as under bumper
lights are exposed to loose stones, and need the covers for protection.

That clutch pedal support bracket cleaned up good

Cheers... jondee86

[aceforever]

Those are pretty neat! Were they repairable afterwards?

I recall YoShImUrA wanted a similar one of those for his MR2.

For me, though, the Cibie's are just the right look. I'm so happy to get it

EDIT:

Are those fog light switches still available? I'd like to have it so it looks OEM inside.

[jondee86]

Are those fog light switches still available? I'd like to have it so it looks OEM inside.

Check around the junkyards... the same switches were used in a few 80's
Toyotas, and they are easy enough to pop out of the dash.

Cheers... jondee86

[aceforever]

Ah great! I'll keep an eye out next time I head to the junkyard.

Oh as you might have seen in the pictures. I was able to get the clevis off of the old clutch master cylinder. It took a lot of effort to get off. I wasn't able to get the nut off, but I'll just leave that rusted nut be as I have many extras!

[YoShImUrA]

Oh, those motorized Koitos are so valuable these days. I wish I had bought a set a few years ago. The ones I showed aceforever I bought them off yahoo auctions Japan last month for a pretty penny, and they're broken.

But a good set will easily set you back $500 nowadays.


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[aceforever]

Hey guys, just wanted to check in again. I also have some questions about velocity stacks.

Engine
Since I was busy working on the brake system, I haven't had time to start the engine and test how it's running in the winter. At the very beginning, the car is pretty hard to start and takes 10-20 seconds before starting. I've up the post start enrichment table, and I'm starting to think I also need to up the start fuel prime time too. Turns out the colder temp fuel - air temp correction map is a bit off, I was running a bit lean. Adjusted it a bit but probably needs more tests and tweaks to tune it properly.

Here's a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq24GNBUjx4

Brake and Clutch progress
I've finished up overhauling the braking system and the clutch components as well.

Got the pedal brackets and pedal all painted up to help prevent future rust:


As I was installing it and adjusting the stop screws and clutch-start interlock switch, the wires twisted off. Got some help from someone at work who knew how to solder to show me how. First time soldering! It's actually not too bad.



Got various missing gaskets and clips that were missing from the Toyota Dealership, the parts customer service at the one closest to me are super nice.


Also ordered an AISIN clutch slave from ebay and braided stainless steel clutch line from T3.


Comparing old and new parts before installing. The OEM clutch hose has a very thick rubber and looks to be in great shape still unlike the brake hoses. My old clutch slave has seen better days. It no longer pops back out and is probably leaking or going to leak soon.



The Goodridge brand braided stainless steel brake lines are pretty good. The fittings look to be of stainless steel and overall good quality. The only complaint I have is that the rear brake lines are bit too long. I compared all the hoses and lines and it turns out OEM rear brake hoses should be the same length as the clutch hose. The lines aren't kinked or rolled so hopefully they stand the test of time.


Since I'm overhauling the brake system, I thought I might as well clean up some of the brackets down there as well. Before and after:



Finally on the car


Although in decent shape, the aluminum clutch master was a bit corroded so I sanded off the white nasties, and polished it a little. Here it is on the car with the proper gasket. Gasket material seems to be treated paper. Perhaps paper coated with something?


On goes the old brake booster and brake master cylinder.


Questions / Prepping for a professional tune
I think it's time to get a proper set of velocity stacks. 2 out of the 4 stacks are damaged and I really should replace them. Jondee86 or anyone else with experience on the ST/BT velocity stacks. Do you know what the inner diameter of the velocity stacks for OEM ITBs are?

I've measured mine and they are 48mm in diameter. I've heard the black top velocity stacks might work? The length of mine are 50mm.

Since my ITBS are tapered as well with considerably more length than the OEM ITBs, I'm guessing common advice for matching the best length of velocity stacks for BT/ST ITBs is not going to help as much. My intake manifold is probably going to add a bit more intake runner length than stock. Perhaps sticking with the HKS velocity size would be best for now?

I also probably need to take the car to Carbs Unlimited at some point and have them take a look at the ITBs. I wasn't able to find any vacuum and I did the cover the intake bellmouths trick that jondee86 mentioned by using my hands. I can feel the vacuum build up and the engine was not happy. So I think we can conclude that the throttle bodies need to be rebuilt for lower than 1500 rpm idling.

[aceforever]

Today I drove the car around some more it runs pretty well. There's a light sound coming somewhere underneath the car.

At first I noticed that while in neutral, when you depress the clutch pedal and let the clutch engage, I hear scraping sounds.

While driving, at 4000 rpm or higher, I hear really loud scrapping sounds.

Someone suggested it's a throw out bearing, is that right?

[jondee86]

Someone suggested it's a throw out bearing, is that right?

The throwout bearing is only under load when you depress the clutch. The rest of the time
it will only be in very light contact with the clutch fingers. So you should be able to hear
a change in the noise when you depress the clutch.

Car stopped and in neutral with the engine running, squeeking noise that changes pitch
as you rev the engine, probably dry throwout bearing. Push the clutch in and get a deeper
harsher sound that changes pitch with the engine revs, probably terminal throwout bearing.

If, when driving you can play a tune by tapping the clutch pedal with your foot, that will
be the throwout bearing. Gearbox bearings usually make more of a rumbling sound, and
the hanger bearing only makes a noise while the car is driving. But the hanger bearing
is one that can make a lot more noise as the car speed increases (as opposed to engine
speed increasing).

Spigot bearing only makes a noise with the engine running, with a gear engaged and the
clutch depressed (as in waiting for the green light).

Plenty of options

Cheers... jondee86

[jondee86]

Perhaps sticking with the HKS velocity size would be best for now?

There is no correct answer when it comes to the "right" length for velocity stacks.



A "tuned length" intake calculated on the distance from valve head to the open end of the stack
will be most effective in a specific rpm band (usually <1000rpm wide). At other rpm's it will be
less effective, so it is a question of choosing the rpm at which you would like to have a little bump
in power/torque. For a race car this might be helpful, but for a road car it matters not

So your choice comes down to a stack that fits in the available space without having the airflow
obstructed, hitting other parts of the car, making it impossible to fit a filter, and looks cool. The ST
AE101 throttle bodies have a diameter of 48mm at the open end and are tapered down to around
43mm at the throttle plate. So any decent ST stack will do a job. I can't say that your throttles will
have the same bolt centres as ST ITB's so you may have to elongate or slot the holes.

Cheers... jondee86

[aceforever]

Thanks for the tips! When I mean 48mm, I was referring to the diameter of where the stack connects up with the throttle body. I think ST stacks would be too small in that case.

Also the grinding sound while reverse is not there anymore today. I guess it was something else?

I figured out why at 4000+ RPM it was making clanking sounds. It was a loose bolt on the AC compressor bracket which I removed for now. No sounds at post 4000rpm!

[jondee86]

When I mean 48mm, I was referring to the diameter of where the stack connects up with the throttle body.

Correct... the outer face diameter of a ST ITB is 48mm, and the base or inner face diameter of the
ST velocity stack where it attaches to the ITB should be 48mm to match.

Cheers... jondee86