20v Swap Checklist

Nyriks
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Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 2:14 pm

20v Swap Checklist

Postby Nyriks » Fri Jan 25, 2013 2:51 am

Hi,

Currently planning on swapping my 16v for a 20v. I have read http://club4ag.com/?page_id=145 and am aware of some of the specifics but I was confused on some of them.

I know for a fact I will have to...

1) get a new ECU

2) relocate the distributor. Anyone try this?
http://s-86.com/20v_dizzy_relocation.php OR
http://www.rhdjapan.com/sp-tec-distribu ... ae86-58913

3) get a new wiring harness
http://www.tweakdperformance.com/online ... ducts_id=1

4) redo water lines

5) electric fan

6) pilot bearing

7) modify the exhaust to fit 20v


What I am mainly confused about is 4-Wire heated O2 Sensor and All VSV solenoids. In the guide it just lists I need them but doesn't go into much detail about them. Sorry I am new to working on cars myself. Any pictures or so showing where is where and what I need to change out would be most appreciated.

-Tim

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gotzoom?
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Location: Silicon Valley, CA
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Re: 20v Swap Checklist

Postby gotzoom? » Fri Jan 25, 2013 9:00 am

On the surface, this might seem like an easy swap, but it's really not. This is especially true if you're not familiar with wrenching on cars already. If you can leave the car on jackstands for a few weeks while you sort things out, it may be ok, but if your intent is to do the swap over a weekend and drive the car to work on Monday, I think you'll be taking the bus for a while. Even though you're prepared with all of the parts, you will still be faced with a number of issues that you can't foresee. Things just never seem to line up or be long enough the way they are supposed to. I'd either seek help from someone experienced or just take it to a shop and let them deal with it and save yourself a lot of headache.

Regardless of what you've heard or read, both 20V engines are illegal for road use anywhere in the US. If you're in an area that requires a smog inspection, you will never legally pass. Just something else to think about before you start turning a wrench.

Nyriks
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Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 2:14 pm

Re: 20v Swap Checklist

Postby Nyriks » Fri Jan 25, 2013 6:05 pm

I have no doubt I will run into trouble especially me being so new to cars. Thankfully I do have another car I can use. I do have some friends who have worked on cars and such. I have been asking them for help but I feel like I need to do my share of work and research as well. Not only that, they all are not local to me : / I would def have taken to a shop to save myself time and headache but the problem is that I ruined the 16v engine in it in the first place and the car is not running. My engine burnt all the oil in it so quickly, and by quickly I mean less than 2k miles after an oil change from toyota, and most likely spun a bearing and pulled some rods. Yes it is my fault for poor maintenance but we learn from our mistakes. Original plan was to take it out and rebuild it but the place I was looking at to rebuild is quite pricey 1600-1700 plus parts. If anyone knows of a good place in so cal, preferably 818 or 805 area code, I would go this route.

Ah and thank you very much for your concern. It does indeed sway me

NAallDAY
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:23 am

Re: 20v Swap Checklist

Postby NAallDAY » Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:17 am

in all honesty i would pick up a used long block if i were you and get the car back running. then you can do extensive research/parts gathering without the constant pull knowing your car doesnt run. just a thought. dont know how easy they are to find where you are, but i got a good running mr2 16v a month ago for $450, and i got to see it run/drive the vehicle before he pulled it, he was doing a 20v swap.

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HASport AE86
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Re: 20v Swap Checklist

Postby HASport AE86 » Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:04 am

If you are worried about burning oil don't pick up a used 20v hoping to fix that. Just about every single one I've done has had worn valvesteam seals that need replacing, otherwise you pull oil in to the combustion chamber on decel.

For a reference on oil consumption, I had a customer with a 2011 Ridgeline complaining that his engine was burning oil at 27,000miles and wanted Honda to buy him a new motor for free. Per the factory, it is within tolerances for an engine to burn up to 1qt of oil every 1000 miles. Burning oil is a natural combustion process, it's only at a certain point does it become excessive. This is why your owners manual will tell you to check fluid levels every time you refuel your car. At that 1qt/1000mi tolerance, if you change your oil every 3000mi and never check it, on a "good" engine you may have only 1qt of oil sloshing around come oil change time. On a worn motor, if you never check it keep your AAA card on you.
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