I refilled my coolant today and filled it up to the top. I started it and then let it run, as the bubbles came out I put more coolant in. Once it got up to temp, the coolant would drop low then shoot out, and it kept doing it. I shut the car off and the temp was over the halfway mark which I assume was because there was still air in the system. So, what's the best way for me to bleed the air out? I have a BT 20v and T3 coolant lines. No bleeder valve. Mizu radiator.
Thanks in advance!
Coolant bleeding question
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death_blossom
- Club4AG Enthusiast
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:36 pm
- Location: Vancouver, BC (Canada)
Re: Coolant bleeding question
try having the car on ramps, or jack stands so it is angled up. this will help the air to rise up. you can try squeezing the rad hoses as well?
location: Vancouver, BC (Canada)
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flowisode_zero
- Club4AG Expert
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 4:53 pm
- Location: Glendale, AZ
Re: Coolant bleeding question
This makes burping the system easy with no mess:
Re: Coolant bleeding question
^A must for any diy'er.
You can also park the car with the front wheels up on a curb - like on a driveway - to help raise the radiator if needed, but you shouldn't need to do this with a no spill funnel kit like pictured above.
Also make sure you're running the heater - if the components are still there - so coolant is flowing through the heater core when doing the bleeding process.
You shouldn't really have coolant 'shooting out' of the radiator unless you remove the cap on a hot engine, but if you don't have a good sealed funnel like pictured above it will overflow. It's normal for the fluid level to rise/fall some between t stat cycles.
It really helps if you add coolant to the radiator slowly from the beginning until it's topped off (before the bleed process); you'll get less air bubbles that way.
PS: **** takes forever with a clutch fan
You can also park the car with the front wheels up on a curb - like on a driveway - to help raise the radiator if needed, but you shouldn't need to do this with a no spill funnel kit like pictured above.
Also make sure you're running the heater - if the components are still there - so coolant is flowing through the heater core when doing the bleeding process.
You shouldn't really have coolant 'shooting out' of the radiator unless you remove the cap on a hot engine, but if you don't have a good sealed funnel like pictured above it will overflow. It's normal for the fluid level to rise/fall some between t stat cycles.
It really helps if you add coolant to the radiator slowly from the beginning until it's topped off (before the bleed process); you'll get less air bubbles that way.
PS: **** takes forever with a clutch fan
Re: Coolant bleeding question
thanks guys finished it up this morning 