Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Sat Jun 27, 2015 11:25 pm

Hook your multimeter up to the TPS and monitor the resistance change as you
make a full sweep of the signal track. You should see a smooth increase as the
wiper moves around the track. Stop and start the sweep a few times without
allowing the spring to move the spindle back at all. If there is no dip in the
meter reading, then I would say that the dip is due to some strangeness in the
throttle linkage.

Check the linkages for any looseness, worn bushes or links etc that could relax
once forward movement of the linkage pauses. As you say, having two units
displying the same unusual fault would be unlikely. If you are checking the junkyard
you could look for these vehicles...

Part 89452-20050 (SENSOR, THROTTLE POSITION (FOR E.F.I.)) was found on the following models:
Date range Model Frames/Options Found in diagram
12/1984-11/1989 TOYOTA MR2 AW11 84-04: ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
08/1985-07/1987 TOYOTA CELICA ST16* 84-04: ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
08/1987-07/1989 TOYOTA CELICA ST16* 84-04: ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
08/1986-07/1988 TOYOTA CAMRY SV2*,VZV21 84-04: ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
08/1988-05/1991 TOYOTA CAMRY SV2*,VZV21 84-04: ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
07/1988-08/1991 TOYOTA CAMRY SV2*,VZV21

Part 89452-28010 (SENSOR, THROTTLE POSITION (FOR E.F.I.)) was found on the following models:
Date range Model Frames/Options Found in diagram
08/1983-06/1987 TOYOTA COROLLA AE86 84-04: ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
12/1984-11/1989 TOYOTA MR2 AW11 84-04: ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
08/1981-11/1985 TOYOTA CELICA RA6*,MA61 84-04: ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
08/1984-07/1988 TOYOTA CRESSIDA MX7* 84-04: ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
08/1983-02/1989 TOYOTA 4RUNNER TRUCK RN5*,6*,7*,VZN6*,LN5*,6* 84-04: E F I SYSTEM

Thanks to TOYODIY.COM parts cross reference :D

Cheers... jondee86
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persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Sun Jun 28, 2015 1:02 am

aceforever wrote:Seems like my MAP sensor reading is just shifted by 50kPa down. I get -4kPa
at engine off and -60 kPa for engine idle.

It is pretty much a universal convention these days to refer to the manifold
pressure in kPa(absolute). This places full vacuum at 0kPa and atmospheric
at 101kPa. On this basis you are at 97kPa engine off and 40kPa at idle. That
is actually a very good idle value if it is correct. My engine idles at around
78kPa depending on mood :P

I use MegaLogViewer (free download) for graphing my logs. You just need to
be able to export .csv files, and it has some quite nice options for setting
up the screens. This one is a log of a dyno pull and has a couple of slightly
interesting features...

Image

First you can see how the Dynapack applies load to hold the rpm steady at
WOT before incrementing the speed upwards at a constant rate. And second
you can see how the MAP reading drops a couple of kPa as the rpm increases,
indicating that there is some small degree of restriction from the filter and
intake setup at full flow.

And last but by no means least, you can see that my AFR's flucuate quite a
lot thru the pull :oops: This is something I shall have to work on.

Cheers... jondee86
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persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby shagymc » Sun Jun 28, 2015 2:20 am

Just following this thread since there seems to be a ton of great info in it. I'm building my 20v and thinking of going to Haltech sprint 500 and I don't know where to start. Great work so far!!!!

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Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Sun Jun 28, 2015 10:41 am

shagymc wrote:Just following this thread since there seems to be a ton of great info in it. I'm building my 20v and thinking of going to Haltech sprint 500 and I don't know where to start. Great work so far!!!!


Hey shagymc, thanks for your encouragement! I'm glad some of the information on the thread is helping you :)

I highly recommend finding a tuner first if you want it professionally tuned after you get it running. Based on where you live, finding a Haltech tuner might be hard and perhaps another ECU solution would be better for your area. Maybe jondee86 can chime in here about his experiences with other brands. But for me, it's been a huge struggle finding someone that would work on my ECU. It's like a black sheep lol.

I inherited my Haltech and so far the tuning software isn't as easy as some other ones I've seen on YouTube. That Haltech ECU you're looking at is much newer than mine so it should be better in most regard.

The process is going to be very similar on all ECU installs. The manual provides a very good explanation of what the installation process is like and I very much recommend you download it from their site and read it over if you're serious about getting it and installing yourself.

The basics are wiring everything up, setting up engine settings(4cyl, rpm limits, load sensing, etc), trigger settings(this counts rpm and helps the ECU time when to fire inj and ignition, make sure you calibrate the timing with a timing light), injector settings and ignition settings. Then you put a base map if you have one for ignition timing and injector timing. If you're unlucky like me, you can use the ones jondee86 graciously provided us on this thread. Then once you have everything set up and check your work 5-8 times over. Haha

You might want to create your own thread on the subject when you actually are starting out. It's going to be hard to follow two conversations on one thread once your project is in full force.

Wishing you the best of luck!
Last edited by aceforever on Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:40 am

jondee86 wrote:It is pretty much a universal convention these days to refer to the manifold
pressure in kPa(absolute). This places full vacuum at 0kPa and atmospheric
at 101kPa. On this basis you are at 97kPa engine off and 40kPa at idle. That
is actually a very good idle value if it is correct. My engine idles at around
78kPa depending on mood :P

Ah, I'll have to keep that conversion in mind then. I can't find a way to calibrate the internal map sensor so I'll just have to leave it like that for now.

Thanks for the tip about MegaLogViewer. It's pretty awesome! I wasn't able to convert the O2 mV into AFR using the program, but I was able to do that in Excel prior to importing it into the MLV using the formula /1000*2+10 to convert mV to AFR.
Image

You can see at 23.9% TPS, it already nears atmospheric. AFR goes way rich and I can adjust that at ~1200RPM ~-10kPa, give less fuel?

Is there a problem losing the granularity between 30% and 100% throttle? Seems like I wouldn't be able to optimize the engine as well as I could?

Hook your multimeter up to the TPS and monitor the resistance change as you
make a full sweep of the signal track. You should see a smooth increase as the
wiper moves around the track. Stop and start the sweep a few times without
allowing the spring to move the spindle back at all. If there is no dip in the
meter reading, then I would say that the dip is due to some strangeness in the
throttle linkage.

I forgot about my o-scope. I'll use that to map it out first. I did try with a multimeter and it seemed fine at the time. But O-scope would be better.

Thanks to TOYODIY.COM parts cross reference :D

I didn't know they had a cross reference! THANKS! :D

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:36 pm

This article... http://77e21.info/mstuning_tbsizing.htm provides some insight
regarding the importance of correctly sizing ITB's if you want to obtain decent
MAP load sensing. If the ITB's are oversized so that the MAP value reaches
atmospheric well before the throttles are fully open, you effectively don't have
any load control at higher rpm's. Your engine is receiving all the air required for
maximum power at something less than 50% TPS, and opening the throttle
further does... well... nothing :D

Not entirely true... as the engine rpm's continue to increase, the engine will
take in more air. So there is a possibility that the half-open throttle might need
to open a little bit more to avoid becoming a restriction. The real difficulty that
arises is that if you are relying on the MAP signal to change and tell the ECU to
supply more fuel after 50% open, that won't happen. The MAP sensor is already
maxxed out, so the only variable available for increasing fuel is engine rpm.

As you will see in the article, if you have the option of choosing the size of the
ITB's, it is possible to match the size to the airflow in such a way as to obtain
a MAP signal that does not max out early. If I had wanted to spend another
$2000 on custom ITB's I could most likely have run my engine on MAP sensing.
But like most people, I took the available option of grabbing used silvertop
ITB's for $200. They are too big for a 1600cc engine (blacktop ITB's are worse),
and the result is that I ended up having to use TPS load sensing.

Look at the size of this throttlebody (because everyone loves pics :D )

Image

Cheers... jondee86
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persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby grappletech » Sun Jun 28, 2015 6:13 pm

Best Throttle body on this site
87 GTS Coupe stock and Super Duper Clean
87 GTS Coupe Beams 3sge (under construction cuz I'm slow and lazy and broke-FML)
87 SR5 Coupe Shell. (Sold)
86 SR5 Hatch Shell
86 GT-SR5 Coupe 20v Swap

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Sun Jun 28, 2015 7:14 pm

Oh my. Those are *ahem* very big... throttle bodies.

jondee86 wrote:Your engine is receiving all the air required for
maximum power at something less than 50% TPS, and opening the throttle
further does... well... nothing :D

Not entirely true... as the engine rpm's continue to increase, the engine will
take in more air. So there is a possibility that the half-open throttle might need
to open a little bit more to avoid becoming a restriction. The real difficulty that
arises is that if you are relying on the MAP signal to change and tell the ECU to
supply more fuel after 50% open, that won't happen. The MAP sensor is already
maxxed out, so the only variable available for increasing fuel is engine rpm.


Wait, so does that mean at 1200rpm, at 30% throttle position is essentially full throttle? Is this what people say when a car's throttle response isn't linear? Is this a reason for electronically controlled TBs?

In your example scenario where at the a higher RPM when 50% throttle would restrict the air intake. Does that mean MAP sensor would detect it or would it not? I'm thinking because there is air restriction, there's a little bit of vacuum?

jondee86 wrote:They are too big for a 1600cc engine (blacktop ITB's are worse),
and the result is that I ended up having to use TPS load sensing.

Why did Toyota fit oversized ITBs? Seems odd that they would do that.
Based on some forums, the ST ITBs are 42mm and BT ITBs are 45mm. Mine are 35mm so I'm guessing they're a bit better for less aggressive cams?

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Sun Jun 28, 2015 8:16 pm

I've tested the two different TPS I have with a USB oscilloscope. I used two channels to monitor the input voltage(ch1) and signal voltage(ch2). But you can just use one channel for signal voltage if you don't have two.
Image

First pin is E2, connect up signal negative and battery negative.
2nd pin is IDL, not needed for my case.
3rd pin is VTA, this is the signal positive
4th pin is VCC, this is sensor power, I've hooked up battery and my input voltage channel +

Lastly, I connected input voltage channel - to battery negative.

Both TPSes are working without that dip in signal when changing positions. I also found something interesting. The two TPSes don't have the same characteristics.

89452-28010
Image
You get full voltage at 100% throttle.

89452-20050
Image
You get around 90% of full voltage at 100% throttle.

Next step is for me to test it on the car. First without the ECU, and test TPS in position with the linkages to rule out linkages. If everything is good there then, it might be the ECU (worse scenario)

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Sun Jun 28, 2015 9:34 pm

Weird, I'm able to reproduce it with the TPS connector and TPS uninstalled.

Image

Image

It would be weird if it was the connector.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Sun Jun 28, 2015 9:46 pm

It was the connector.

Testing it without the connector:
Image

Image

Maybe I wired it wrong? I followed the previous owner's wiring as it was already partially matching. I'm going to double check pin to wire with multimeter.

EDIT: Pin to wire was wrong. I mixed up sensor +5v and signal!
Last edited by aceforever on Mon Jun 29, 2015 8:36 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Sun Jun 28, 2015 10:20 pm

aceforever wrote:It was the connector.

Reminds me of the mess I made wiring up the TPS first time round.
I knew I had to reverse the order, but brain fade hit somewhere along
the way and I managed to get several wires wrong. ECU definitely
was not happy :oops:

But you have it sorted now and that's the main thing.

Cheers... jondee86
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persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Sun Jun 28, 2015 10:48 pm

I shouldn't have assumed that the previous wiring would be right. I double checked other wiring but missed this one.

Oh well, at least we know the symptoms of that and can easily help others now!

EDIT: so other than the dip in signal. The TPS signal maxed out at around 30-50% travel. So 30-50% was essentially 100% in signal.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Mon Jun 29, 2015 1:00 am

aceforever wrote:So does that mean at 1200rpm, at 30% throttle position is essentially full throttle?

Basically, an engine pumps air according to its capacity and rpm. If the manifold
pressure is at atmospheric, then the intake of air can be assumed to be unrestricted.
That is, the engine is getting the maximum amount of air it can consume at that
particular rpm. If the throttle is only 30% open at that point, opening it further will
not increase the amount of air drawn into the engine. So, yes, you could consider
the throttle to be effectively wide open (at that rpm) for any opening 30% or higher.

Is this what people say when a car's throttle response isn't linear? Is this a reason
for electronically controlled TBs?

Here is a typical flow vs opening curve for a butterfly valve...

Image

As you can see it is not a straight line relationship. About 80% of max flow is
achieved before the valve is half open. This conflicts with the human expectation
that the car should go faster the further down you press the gas pedal. The rapid
increase in flow before the throttle is half open creates the impression that the
engine has plenty of POWAH !! But the driver also likes to know he has power in
reserve for overtaking. So he/she is not happy with a car that feels like it has run out
of puff when the pedal is pushed to the floor. :?

There are various ways of playing with the throttle linkages and the shape of cable
quadrants to try and create a more linear power curve. However, fly-by-wire throttles
allow the ECU to intervene between the movement of the throttle pedal and the
butterfly... by programming the throttle response characteristics.

In your example scenario where at the a higher RPM when 50% throttle would restrict
the air intake. Does that mean MAP sensor would detect it or would it not? I'm thinking
because there is air restriction, there's a little bit of vacuum?

In an intake manifold and ITB assembly, the ideal would to be to have the manifold
pressure just start to drop below atmospheric when the engine reached maximum
rpm's. That is to say, the throttle plate would exercise some degree of control over
manifold vacuum all the way from idle to redline. If the throttles are oversized, they
lose control authority early, and the the engine functions more like a diesel.

The resistance to flow within the intake varies with the velocity, and with the degree
of obstruction provided by the throttle plate. Therefore, while 30% TPS might give
atmospheric at 1200rpm, at 5000rpm it might require 50% TPS to give atmospheric.
Even with the throttle plate at 100%, at redline the velocity may be high enough to
generate a small pressure drop of 1 or 2 kPa. The MAP sensor will pick this up, just
as it picks up the pressure drop caused by my filter at high rpm. You can see this in
the second graph I posted above... with WOT the MAP signal drops towards redline.

jondee86 wrote:They are too big for a 1600cc engine (blacktop ITB's are worse),
and the result is that I ended up having to use TPS load sensing.

Why did Toyota fit oversized ITBs? Seems odd that they would do that.
Based on some forums, the ST ITBs are 42mm and BT ITBs are 45mm. Mine are 35mm
so I'm guessing they're a bit better for less aggressive cams?

This quote from Jenvey might be helpful, as they know a thing or two about ITB's..
What is the best throttle body diameter ?
Factors influencing size are; Power output, RPM, cylinder head design, cylinder
capacity, position of the throttle body in the inlet tract and position of the injector.

Choice of bore size is a balanced compromise resulting from the following;
1) A larger bore leads to lower flow resistance, but obeying the laws of diminishing returns.
2) A smaller bore leads to better throttle control and response (never underestimate)
and improved fuel mixing.
3) The system should be considered in total - from (at least) trumpet flange to cylinder
and proportioned accordingly.

Basic references for BHP per cylinder, assuming ca 120mm from butterfly to valve head
and a max of 9,000 rpm are;
Up to 30 BHP - 30mm Bore
Up to 33 BHP - 32mm
Up to 39 BHP - 35mm
Up to 46 BHP - 38mm
Up to 51 BHP - 40mm
Up to 56 BHP - 42mm
Up to 65 BHP - 45mm
Up to 74 BHP - 48mm
Up to 80 BHP - 50mm
Up to 87 BHP - 52mm
Up to 93 BHP - 54mm
These power figures may be increased by up to 10% in a purpose designed and well
proportioned system.As butterfly to valve distance increases, butterfly size will need
to increase in proportion to system taper and vice versa. Lower revving engines and
those with injectors placed before the butterfly will generally accept a larger body.


So in round figures ST ITB's are good for 220hp and BT good for 260hp. Bolting either
onto a 110hp bigport is overkill. You are better off with your 35mm throttles, and this
is probably why you can get a bit more manifold vacuum than I get with ST ITB's.

Cheers... jondee86
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persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
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Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Mon Jun 29, 2015 9:17 am

Thanks for the detailed explanation! I love it.

So is the slightly lower pressure at high rpm, 100% throttle, the reason why some cars have full throttle fuel maps? So they don't have to worry about the MAP pressure drop?

I know you mentioned that it's usually better to use TPS as load instead of MAP before for ITBs. Other than not having to worry about the slight full throttle MAP drop, are there any other benefits to switching over? Should I switch over to TPS load sensing as I have my TPS wired correctly now ?

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Mon Jun 29, 2015 11:49 pm

aceforever wrote:So is the slightly lower pressure at high rpm, 100% throttle, the reason why some cars
have full throttle fuel maps? So they don't have to worry about the MAP pressure drop?

Haltech says...
The full throttle map is used with engines that use Manifold pressure load sensing but cannot
produce a stable manifold pressure signal at full throttle.

Because the MAP signal becomes "noisier" at high rpm's, the MAP signal can cause the
fuel map to jump around from cell to cell, which may result in less than ideal fueling. And
as poor fueling at high rpm can quickly turn your :) into a :(, using a fuel map with fixed
values is a good idea. Many ECU's change from closed loop to open loop at the top of the
fuel map for the same reason.

I know you mentioned that it's usually better to use TPS as load instead of MAP before
for ITBs. Other than not having to worry about the slight full throttle MAP drop, are there
any other benefits to switching over? Should I switch over to TPS load sensing as I have
my TPS wired correctly now ?

At this stage I don't see any reason why you should abandon MAP load sensing at this time.
MAP should give you better control at idle and low throttle settings. In this country the AE86
came from the factory with MAP sensing (not AFM as sold in the US) and the system works
just fine on single throttle engines. MAP sensing works on the blacktop 20V 4AGE although
I have not been able to figure out how the stock engine gets such a good signal and I get
such a poor one on my 16V conversion :? My best guess is that it is something to do with
cam timing.

TPS load sensing is usually reserved for race cars that spend most of their time at high rpm's,
and for ITB setups like mine, with very little manifold vacuum. But it appears you are getting
a decent vacuum, so I'd say stay with MAP :)

Cheers... jondee86
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persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Tue Jun 30, 2015 12:17 am

Thanks for the tips! I'll then try to refine the throtte pump settings and tune the fuel map a bit better so it doesn't bog down with too much fuel at certain rpm and load ranges.

Seems like maybe I should invest in a 1 bar MAP sensor so I can get better resolution.

Just curious are you running a similar setup as me other than the bigger ITBs and longer duration cams? I'm guessing you have a vacuum box like me as well? I do have the ISCV totally blocked off and it seems to start and idle okay right now (pretty warm around here in Seattle these days) maybe that has something to do with the idle vacuum?

So what should I work on now?

I've tuned the fuel timings for idle to 5000rpm. Should I venture up higher rpm after the finer tuning? Now that I know a bit more about data logging and know that my TPS is functioning well, I'm pretty comfortable with tuning injection timing.

Maybe I should probably start contacting the tuner again for the actual ignition tune/ inj tune?

Probably should drive it around to learn how to drive a manual car too prior to that since it's quite a drive away.

There's that lug nut lock that I need to get off and flush brakes / rebuild the lightly seized caliper.

Also have that pretty corroded radiator to replace and flush coolant.

I assume braking should be done first. But any tips on the ordering is highly appreciated :)

I'm really happy with the build so far. And I feel like I learned a lot thanks to you and others here! It's been a long journey so far. Thanks for sticking with me along the way.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Tue Jun 30, 2015 1:26 am

aceforever wrote:Seems like maybe I should invest in a 1 bar MAP sensor so I can get better resolution.

Details of OEM MAP sensor here... viewtopic.php?f=13&t=16117
If you have the facility to connect an external OEM sensor, Ithink it would be a good move.

Once you have established the slope of your fuel map to 5000rpm, you can extrapolate
upwards to 8000rpm at a similar slope. Then start pushing the load and rpm a little higher
while keeping an eye on the AFR and MAP reading. It helps if you can find a long uphill
grade where you can load the engine in a higher gear (say 3rd or 4th) and log a pull from
30 to 50mph. Hold the throttle open at a few different settings and allow the car to
accelerate smoothly. Then use the logs to adjust the fuel map. That's basically what I do :)

Work your way up from part throttle to full throttle runs over several days. The engine
will not be harmed by spending a short time too lean or too rich at part throttle, but it is
not a good idea to spend a lot of time at high load when the AFR is way off.

Cheers... jondee86
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persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Tue Jun 30, 2015 2:10 am

aceforever wrote:Just curious are you running a similar setup as me other than the bigger ITBs
and longer duration cams? I'm guessing you have a vacuum box like me as well?
I do have the ISCV totally blocked off and it seems to start and idle okay right
now (pretty warm around here in Seattle these days) maybe that has something
to do with the idle vacuum?

Your ITB's are leaking air somewhere, and obviously that is sufficient for idle.
You should find that the idle rises a couple of hundred rpm from cold to warm as
there is no temperature compensation on an air leak ;) Providing your mixture
is on the rich side at idle, starting will not be a problem, and you can always tweak
the cranking enrichment if you need a little extra.

My setup uses a 20V ISCV that is controlled by the ECU to operate the same way
as it does on the 20V. Idle air is supplied directly into each intake runner downstream
of the ITB's. There is a separate small vacuum collector that samples each intake
runner, and provides an averaged signal for the FPR and MAP sensor. In my case the
MAP sensor is used by the ECU for some compensation trickery that I don't really
know anything about, but the ECU supplier says keep it hooked up.

Get the brakes cleaned up and then go driving 8-)

Cheers... jondee86
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persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
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Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Tue Jun 30, 2015 9:35 pm

So today I took the car out alone. This time after rush hour! :) Stalled out a couple times driving around the block, but I think with a few more times driving I'll be able to drive it better.

After I drove it around the block 20 or so times. I wanted to try going a bit further. I made it maybe 3-4 blocks away on a larger street. That's when I noticed something disturbing.

My engine was running as if I had 10-20% throttle down. My throttle was all the way up. Something was leaking air into the intake. My rpm was steadily climbing. I clutched in. Shifted to neutral and I turned the ignition off. Luckily I was able to turn into a side street. I stopped and put the ebrake on. After checking all the vacuum hoses and the throttle linkages, I noticed that one of my throttle bolts that secure the throttle arms was loose. I guessed that it was letting air in. I did not have a 12mm wrench at the time and I was at least half a mile away. Luckily I have a pair of pliers that I was able to use to tighten the bolt little by little.

After I got the engine running, I needed to get up the incline. I stalled a good 4-6 times before I got up the hill. I got back safely and after stalling out a bunch of times again trying to get up the inclined alleyway and small driveway. I finally parked it.

Whew.

While I was driving, I noticed the speedometer acting a little weird. It was bouncing up and down from 0-10mph. Perhaps the driven gear wasn't seated properly? It was going pretty well a few days ago though.

Luckily I did not lose power at all during any of those stalls. At least the electrical system is okay!

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Wed Jul 01, 2015 12:28 am

When I started out playing with old cars, I learned that it was a good idea
to always have a small selection of tools in the car. Even today, I make sure
that factory tool roll, scissors jack and lug spanner are in the back. You never
know when you might need to tighten a battery terminal or change a wheel.

If you are stalling the car a lot, it's most likely that you are taking you foot
off the clutch too quickly. Many people do the same when learning to drive a
manual transmission. As soon as they feel the car start to move, the foot
comes off the clutch, and that is too soon. The engine gets pulled down to
300 or 400 rpm and stalls. You need to let the clutch out until the cars starts
to move, and then sloooowly let it come all the way out as the speed picks up.

Came across this thread the other night...
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/222-For-the-love-of-a-tractor-engine-The-life-and-times-of-the-18R-G?p=1445503&viewfull=1#post1445503

Image

And I saw that it mentions that you can use Mikuni parts for rebuilding the ITB's.
Could be worth looking into if yours are leaking around the spindles ? Maybe even
see if the there is a carb re-building business anywhere around Seattle, as it could
be that the spindles and seals need replacing.

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Wed Jul 01, 2015 8:15 pm

Haha yup! I understand the concept but I need more practice.

Seems like the Mikuni makes the 40mm and 44mm throttle. I wonder if I can use just the spindles and seals from the Mikuni. Probably not the throttle plate.

Maybe there's a rebuild place. Is this so I can get the leak low enough to idle lower?

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Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Wed Jul 01, 2015 9:41 pm

Woo! I went around the block for about an hour today without stalling! Making good progress. I can feel when the clutch catches better now. I only stalled out when backing up into my garage. That area is hard. Lots of bumps where I need to have a lot of torque to get over.

The right front wheel is making a little scraping sounds. I'm guessing it's the semi seized caliper. I'll need to get that taken care of as soon as I can. Maybe I can drive it to an auto repair shop to get the lug nut off now since I'm less prone to stalling.

Maybe I need another day of practice...

I also got the speedometer working again. Seems like the casing needed to be pushed to one side so the speedo driven gear makes good contact against the transmission gear. So I used a screw driver to spin the cable side of the speedo driven gear and played with the angle of the casing until I can't turn the screw driver at all. Then I unscrewed and pushed the little casing holding piece against the casing so it was secured there. Now my speedometer works :)

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Wed Jul 01, 2015 10:08 pm

aceforever wrote:Maybe there's a rebuild place. Is this so I can get the leak low enough to idle lower?

Yes. There has to be a reason why you still idle high with the idle-up valve
closed off. Air is leaking into engine from somewhere, and it might be that
the ITB's are worn to the point where there is leakage at the spindles. What
I suggest is that you see if there is a workshop local to you that specialises
in rebuilding carbs. Then ask them if they can check your ITB's and rebuild
them if they are leaking.

Listen carefully to what the guy says. If he shows an interest and wants to
know exactly what ITB's you have, and the workshop looks like they have the
tools to make stuff, not just fit new parts, then let him take a look and give
you an opinion. You want a guy who wipes his hands on his overalls before
he shakes yours... not a counter clerk :)

Basically, if you can feel slop in the spindles by wriggling them up and down
by hand, they will be letting air in. And most likely the butterflys won't be
seating properly, which causes further leakage. Not saying this is the cause
of the high idle, but with vintage hardware there is always the possibility
of wear causing issues. Worth checking :)

Cheers... jondee86
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persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Wed Jul 01, 2015 11:46 pm

I think I found a local chain for carb rebuilding. Both around 21 miles away.

"Carburetors Unlimited"

http://www.carbsunlimitedandperformance.com/Main.html
http://www.carburetion.com/index.htm

The tuner place might also do carb repair. I see one of their services is "emissions repair". Is that similar? It's 37 miles away.

http://www.marysvillespeed.com/performance.html

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:06 am

jondee86 wrote:Image


My ITBs look the same as his, however my intake runners are vastly different shape. His is much shorter than mine. Just curious, what does that change in terms of engine breathing?

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Thu Jul 02, 2015 1:00 am

aceforever wrote:I think I found a local chain for carb rebuilding.

The Carbs Unlimited shop sounds like the right kind of place. They even mention
re-bushing throttle shafts which is the kind of service you will require if your
spindles are loose in the ITB body. I'd give them a call and see if you can get to
talk with one of the guys who actually does the rebushing work.

I'd guess that "emissions repair" means that if you fail emissions testing, they
will sell you a new carb :) And I wouldn't go near a tuning shop to ask about
getting your ITB's re-built. They would only send the work out and double the
price to you !!!

The picture you linked has an intake manifold to fit the ITB's to an 18RG Celica
engine, that was originally fitted with twin sidedraft carbs. It is quite possible
that the manifold is the original. The style of ITB that you have is designed to
match the DCOE bolt pattern to make the ITB a straight bolt-on replacement
for carbs. In the pic you can see that the injectors have been fitted to the ITB's
as the 18RG does not have holes for injectors in the head.

In general, short intakes (measured from the open end of the trumpet to the
valve head) are considered better for high rpm power, and longer intakes better
for making mid-range torque. Or if you like, peak torque will occur at lower rpm
with longer intakes. Having the injectors further away from the valve head allows
more time for the fuel to mix with the air, and is generally accepted to promote
better combustion.

Cheers... jondee86

PS: A tire shop might be a good bet for getting those lock nuts off ?
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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:21 am

Thanks again for your insight. I'll talk to the carbs unlimited place today. Should I bring the car to them or should I just unbolt the ITBs and bring them that? I'm less comfortable with driving the 86 there just yet. Wouldn't they need to take the ITBS off to work on it? Or would it be better to have a working engine so they can test it with that?

Do you think they would balance the two ITBS pieces for me? I guess they would need the intake manifold then. Since that's where the throttle cable hooks up to the rocker arm that connects to the linkages.

I'm also talking to a national chain Discount Tires today. My ex mechanic friend said that they're probably the best bet as the shop provides tools rather than mechanic owned tools. The Firestone I went to to get my tires aligned did not have the tools accessible at the time to take off the lock nuts. It was in a mechanic's tool chest and he went home already.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby aceforever » Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:26 am

Since it's pretty far away. I think I should make sure if it's not something simple. Let me test it with some cigar or smoke to see where it's leaking first.

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Re: Restoring AE86 w/ 4AGE 16v + HKS ITB + Haltech E6X

Postby jondee86 » Thu Jul 02, 2015 3:58 pm

aceforever wrote:Since it's pretty far away. I think I should make sure if it's not something simple.
Let me test it with some cigar or smoke to see where it's leaking first.

As you can drive the car with the throttles the way they are, getting them
checked or re-built is not urgent. You can leave a visit to the carb shop until
you have done a few other things, and driving the car regularly.

If it gets to the point where you want the shop to re-build and balance the
ITB's, you would need to give them the manifold to avoid upsetting the
adjustment between the two sets when re-installing. But again, this is
something you will need to talk to the shop about when the time comes.

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.