4AG blue top head/red top bottom builds

[idrum2loud]

Was wondering if anyone else is running the Frankenstein combo of a blue top head/red top bottom end 4AG. If so, what is your setup including injectors, TVIS or no TVIS, timing settings, etc. Thanks for the input guys! trying to get my frankestein motor dialed in for the most part before this 2014 drift season!

[yoshimitsuspeed]

I assume you mean a largeport head with a 7 rib bottom end and late smallport 10.3:1 pistons:
We try not to use top color because 9 times out of 10 it's misused and always vague.
The smallport head is better so if you have it use it.
You will want to pair all the electronics with the ECU you use. If you use a late LP ECU then use late LP injectors, AFM, TPS etc. If you use a different TPS or AFM make sure it passes all on car and off car tests from the FSM of the ECU you are using.
Any way you cut it with a build like this you will want to run a wideband just to be sure you get it right. Plus you can optimize the tune once it's up and running.

Was wondering if anyone else is running the Frankenstein combo of a blue top head/red top bottom end 4AG. If so, what is your setup including injectors, TVIS or no TVIS, timing settings, etc. Thanks for the input guys! trying to get my frankestein motor dialed in for the most part before this 2014 drift season!

[idrum2loud]

Oh it runs lol and drives...but i a trying to dial it in. High compression bottom end yes. It has all of the factory blue top afm, ecu, etc...but it has honda injectors that are equivalent to high comp injectors i was told. Blue top head was used to avoid intake manifold throttle body mod i assume, this build is aged and was thrown into my car which was saved from a junkyard. I have a aftermarket FPR on her and its set to stock 45psi. Took it to the shop that built it and had the bottom end checked and its got amazing compression. Engine guy said it was running rich as well. I have been playing with the timing for some time, and it is tricky since the head had a lot of work done ( port n polish 3 angle valve job ) and was decked lowering it down so placing the dizzy in just right is a chore. I am just trying to get insight on maybe needing to get different injectors or what to get it dialed in better. It SCREAMS when i get it running right now, def a huge difference in power from a stock blue top that came in the ae86!

[yoshimitsuspeed]

If you want to tune your car you NEED a wideband unless you are willing to pay a dyno with a wideband to dial in your tune. Even then you are better off with your own because you can focus more on mid throttle and load areas you don't see on a dyno.

I feel like we have talked about this before. Maybe on facebook or somewhere else? Maybe here? I don't remember. Anyway that's your first step.
I can get most name brand widebands including AEM, Autometer, Defi and a number of others. If you are interested in getting one let me know.
Without one you are basically standing at the wrong end of the field with a blindfold on, not knowing which way you are facing and trying to kick a socker ball into a net at the far other end of the field.

[idrum2loud]

Awesome man thanks. My buddy has a wideband with a fuel ratio meter on his 240 he used to kinda set up his deal....so this is def where i need to head. My headers have a wideband spot or i can just replace the o2 with this. How much for a gauge and wideband setup nothing special just low end budget to get me going?

[yoshimitsuspeed]

This isn't something you want to go too cheap on. I would go name brand that way you can trust the numbers and trust that it will stay functional and properly calibrated as long as possible.
A couple of the more affordable ones I can get are the AEM 30-4100 for about $180