Brake Proportioning Valve Issue

[BakaBaka]

I'm in the process of rebuilding my brake valve since the piston is stuck but I have no idea how to go about removing it. Any ideas/suggestions?

I've included 2 pics to show what I'm on about. I feel as if this simple piece is often overlooked when it comes to braking performance.

Kudos,
Jay

[morgan]

Jay...have you tried the FSM...

[allencr]

Inertia - you want it to move one way so hit the body holding it the other way.
Tap or maybe even a screw extractor.

[Red]

Get a black rubber cork with a hole in the middle of it, oddly still sold by Ace Hardware in the drawer of nuts & bolts & odd parts, and bolt or jam a Schraeder valve fitting into the middle. Jam the cork in the housing, put an air pressure hose on it, poof, the valve body should blow out. WIth no tool marks or other damages on it. Assuming you're pushing from the right side of things.

You might be able to do the same thing by just putting mineral oil upstream of the valve, and then pressing in a solid cork to generate pressure on the oil. Probably have to put something in there to plug the valve first.

[BakaBaka]

Jay...have you tried the FSM...

Yea, I did. Unfortunately, the FSM doesn't even mention the BPV. This part is even overlooked by Toyota themselves =/

[BakaBaka]

Inertia - you want it to move one way so hit the body holding it the other way.
Tap or maybe even a screw extractor.

Get a black rubber cork with a hole in the middle of it, oddly still sold by Ace Hardware in the drawer of nuts & bolts & odd parts, and bolt or jam a Schraeder valve fitting into the middle. Jam the cork in the housing, put an air pressure hose on it, poof, the valve body should blow out. WIth no tool marks or other damages on it. Assuming you're pushing from the right side of things.

You might be able to do the same thing by just putting mineral oil upstream of the valve, and then pressing in a solid cork to generate pressure on the oil. Probably have to put something in there to plug the valve first.

I've tried tapping/hitting it with a 3/8 ratchet extension and hammer hoping to loosen any crud or rust that might be fused onto the valve with no luck.

I've also tried the compressed air method and it wouldn't budge. I'm still pretty much stuck at this point (no pun intended). If replacement parts were easy to obtain, I would drill right through it but seeing it's not and Toyota want over $200 for a BPV, I don't want to risk anything. I can also find used BPVs on eBay.. but there's no guarantee I wouldn't run into the same problem as well.

[Red]

" and Toyota want over $200 for a BPV"
Sometimes the are plain old fashioned f*ing nuts. Last time I needed a windshield, Toyota wanted over $900 for just the glass. SafeLite did the whole installation for something like $250.

Maybe putting the entire assembly in a pan of oil and heating it up will help it drop out? That's a normal procedure for some press-fit parts, might help here.

[BakaBaka]

" and Toyota want over $200 for a BPV"
Sometimes the are plain old fashioned f*ing nuts. Last time I needed a windshield, Toyota wanted over $900 for just the glass. SafeLite did the whole installation for something like $250.

Maybe putting the entire assembly in a pan of oil and heating it up will help it drop out? That's a normal procedure for some press-fit parts, might help here.

Good tip Red, I'm going to try that method and let you know how it goes. The piston valve isn't pressed into place. It should easily slide up and down (or in and out depending how you perceive it) in a good working condition BPV. Only a tiny spring on top of the piston keeps the pressure equalized.

[Red]

Another option would be to shoot PBlaster into it. That would hurt any o-rings but you'd want to replace those during a rebuild anyhow. Maybe try that first, before the oil.

[BakaBaka]

Another option would be to shoot PBlaster into it. That would hurt any o-rings but you'd want to replace those during a rebuild anyhow. Maybe try that first, before the oil.

Tried it, done it.

I've had the part soaked for 24 hours in a synthetic rust remover bath called Metal Rescue, it didn't work. I've also emptied 2 cans of PB Blaster into a plastic container and let that sit over night as well.. and no luck once again. I'm starting to think the piston just doesn't want to come out.

[BakaBaka]

UPDATE! PISTON REMOVED!

Thanks to everyone for their ideas and suggestions, especially Red. I eventually took a blowtorch to the BPV and it came out with ease. Albeit, ruining the o-rings in the process but those had to be replaced anyways.

FYI: Only use EPDM (ethylene propylene) o-rings for brake application where brake fluid will come in contact with the o-rings. Any other type of o-ring material will break down over time.

[Red]

EPDM? Very interesting. I wonder how using DOT5 affects that picture. (Put mine in 26 years ago, knock wood.)

Interesting the way so many companies want you to have your brake fluid tested, not just changed on schedule, these days. Brakes ain't just brakes anymore.

[BakaBaka]

EPDM? Very interesting. I wonder how using DOT5 affects that picture. (Put mine in 26 years ago, knock wood.)

Interesting the way so many companies want you to have your brake fluid tested, not just changed on schedule, these days. Brakes ain't just brakes anymore.

Yea, I didn't realize there was such a vast difference in o-ring materials and how it's application-specific. But, since it was such a pain taking my BPV apart, I'm going to play it safe and source some EPDM o-rings to "minimize" the time in between services. Red, if it's not too much trouble, why don't you take your BPV apart and lemme' know how your o-rings fair out? If it still looks good, I might just put the regular ones in (nitrile-based) that I already have. If not, I'll just go buy me a set on eBay.

[Red]

No problem, I'll just slip under the car and...oh, wait a minute, I seem to be too thick for that.<G>

But I'd bet Grainer or McMaster sells whatever o-rings you need.

[BakaBaka]

Hah! I already purchased a set. If you ever decide to rebuild your BPV, hit me up and I'll send you the replacement o-rings free of charge. No good deeds (or advice) goes un-rewarded

[Red]

Thank you! With any luck (furiously knocking wood) the DOT5 was intended to make sure I'd never have to do brake work on this car, with find memories of crocus cloth and rebuilding the brake cylinders on my 289 Mustang when it was only four or five years old.