replaced master/slave cylinders, clutch worse

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replaced master/slave cylinders, clutch worse

Postby winzersr20 » Tue Apr 04, 2023 12:30 am

1985 gts hatchback w/4agze:

had issues shifting into gear and sometimes having to pump the clutch to keep pressure. so i decided to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders (oem) and now i can't shift into gear at all. bled thru the slave til there were no bubbles left. i don't understand how it could get worse from before/after the replacements when there's no air bubbles? i didn't see any leaks.

i haven't dropped the trans to check the plate/flywheel/throw out bearing yet. was hoping i didn't have to.

also, if the good chance ill need to replace the clutch, what clutch is recommended for drifting? i currently have a ACT stage 2.

thank you

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Re: replaced master/slave cylinders, clutch worse

Postby jondee86 » Tue Apr 04, 2023 9:56 pm

For clarity.... are you saying that with the engine running you cannot get the clutch to disengage
sufficiently (or at all) to allow you to select a gear ? What happens if you try to select reverse...
does it just graunch and not engage ?

Have you set the pedal height and free play correctly ?

Does the slave cylinder move out (and return) about 10mm (3/8") when you get someone to depress
the clutch while you watch for movement under the car ?

If you accidentally move the end of the clutch fork too far up or down you can dislodge the fork
from the spring clips that hold it to the throwout bearing sleeve. The the fork just flops around like
a cock in a sock. Then you YOU DO have to get inside the bell housing to put it back together again.

Cheers... jondee86
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress
depends on the unreasonable man.

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Re: replaced master/slave cylinders, clutch worse

Postby winzersr20 » Sat May 06, 2023 2:08 am

sorry for the late reply, didn't see the email from your reply. luckily was on here searching other stuff lol.

with the engine on, i cannot shift into any gears including reverse, it just grinds and doesn't feel like its disengaging.

the clutch isn't as stiff as it was prior to part replacements (currently have an act clutch) and feels like the pressure isn't as long in the pedal as before (if that makes sense).

we raised the pedal height as high as we could and no difference.

havent had a chance to check the slave movement, i plan on swapping the old slave back on to see if it makes a difference. if the slave isn't moving all the way would that be bc of the fork? the fork dislodging makes sense but would it still have some pressure in the pedal or would it have none at all?

i have to replace the rear main seal so i plan to replace the clutch anyways. now that will be a new thread with the options im looking into to lol

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Re: replaced master/slave cylinders, clutch worse

Postby Corey20v » Sun May 21, 2023 8:21 pm

It's likely a clutch hydraulic bleeding issue. Confirm the slave moves as the clutch pedal travels, toss a cell phone down there recording and call out where you are in the pedal travel. If you're like 50% of the pedal traveled and the slave hasn't moved yet, it needs to be bled (or there is a leak somewhere, look for wet. If lines etc are dirty, clean the area w brake clean first so you know what is freshly wet)

Swapping the slave does nothing. It's easy to have air trapped in the lines, its also easy to have air travel around the threads of the bleeder. I typically 2man bleed with the bleeder barely cracked on the last few pumps, closing before the pedal hits the floor and while the pedal is under pressure to prevent air going back in the lines
1986 SR5->20V ST (WIP!)
Other toys: 1993 S13 Coupe, 1993 NA6 Miata, 1996 Z32 300ZX