Daily Driver...Could use some advice

[AE86DailyDriver]

So i'm kind of a newb when I comes to fixing up cars (in fact i'll be paying my mechanic friend to do most of the work to it) and I am looking to fix up my first Corolla just a bit. I have a 1984 Corolla SR5 that I want to turn into a daily driver but be fun as well.
So I don't need anything too advanced on it, but enough to feel safe flying down a half empty freeway, up and down the mountain/hills around my house and work, allthewhile being a dependable daily driver. So I don't need it built up to race or slide around too often in.

Things I have in mind:
-Rear axle from either an AE88 or Mk2 Supra (to gain both the better differential and rear discs)
-BC Coilovers (BR series)
-R1 Concepts Rotors (all the way around) and pads
-Maybe the Calipers and/or Master Cylinder from R1 Concepts as well depending on the condition of how the stock ones are, and how much of an upgrade they really would be
-First generation 4AGE (Would be nice to actually find a front clip from a Levin, that way I not only get the engine, but also the Levin front end that I desire so much). I would love a 20v 4AGE, but the complexity of that swap vs a first gen swap seems like it would put me way too far over my head (and while I have complete faith in my mechanic friend to do the bigport swap, im no sure how id feel about him doing the swap if it was the 20v Silver or Black top)

Of course I am going to have someone look over the condition of everything else (Cooling, transmission, brake line, hoses, power steering, etc), and see what needs to be replaced. And figure out a decent set of tires once I get to about 30% or less left on them. Then when I get all that jazz sorted out, then Ill worry about the cosmetic stuff like wheels, Levin front end, rear bumper, seats and belts, etc.

Any advice on things I should or might want to look into as well?...Keeping in mind that right now I really just need the basics to make moderate street driving safe (and of course fun as well).
Any noticeable difference between A corolla GTS differential vs a Celica Supra differential?
Any other braking and Suspension parts that I should really look to upgrading?
And know where I can get an AE86 Levin front clip as well? haha

[Jan Pedersen]

Sounds like a thought through plan to me!

If you are going to keep it as a daily driver pick the 5/4.5 kg/mm option for yourcoil overs. Before you buy them search the internet to see if the BC dampers are any good. Most "cheap" 8/6 kg/mm coilovers uses dampers that aren't valved properly and will make the car way to uncomfortably to be enjoyed every day. Or you could have a set build with the springs and dampers you like...

I think that the MK2 rear will have a different ratios than the AE86. And you with the limited power of a 4AGE it can't be too long and if its too short it will be unbearable on the street

[AE86DailyDriver]

Thanks for the reply, and I was doing some research, and I agree that I should be fine with a Corolla GTS axle (not to mention a much easier swap than a Supra swap). Really I should be fine with the SR5 axle, but I still think i'm going to go with GTS swap....just because. haha
Farther down the road, if I ever decide to drop in a built Blacktop 4AGE then, I probably really consider the Supra axle.
And yeah, seems like im gonna have to spend quite a bit of time researching my coilover options before deciding.

[EvoSolley]

Firs off Congrats on the car! I too drive a 1985 sr5 as my daily and love it. I'm still sporting the 4AC at the moment, but are working towards a redtop 4AGE swap in the near future

One of my first, cheapest, and most noticeable mods to my car was this: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86 ... 86-corolla Hands down one of the best mods to date. My shifter had so much slop (due to the worn out 28 year old shifter bushings), that when I shifted i didn't even know if I was in a gear or not. Swapping in this shifter bushing kit was like a night and day difference and pretty cheap! I have no idea what shape your car is in as of right now, but first things I would do, would be common maintenance stuff like change fluids, checking suspension components, some bushings here and there, etc.

Also, don't be afraid to get your hands dirty and work on your car, this would be a great place to start learning. Goodluck!

[marley4us]

Wow it is so refreshing to see a new member that is already well rounded and thinks through his action before even asking anything! I apploud you!


I think you have a great plan layed out and you really seem to already know quit a bit. I would recomend first replacing bushings etc all the old stuff that has gone rotten or bad over the 30ish years. Basic maintance etc. You sound like you have had a few cars, or just got a good head on your shoulders. I would play with the car once all the maintance done. These cars are a lot of fun at when pushed to the max. But deffinitly take your time learning the car. I highly recomend SCCA, and local drift nights at a track near you. Once you have all that done, then start doing your suspension brakes etc.

I think a GTS rearend etc will be more then enough for any of the motor platforms you have suggestions. the MK2 is overkill and not necissary unless your are trying to get into 220hp plus and those type of builds usually are not very streetable or daily driver friendly.

One of the best suggestions on mods I would suggest after maintance, would be a good 1.5 diff, that will really make the car feel so much better!

Best of luck and welcome to club4ag family!

[The Robot Cow]

If you want to daily it, just keep it simple. Yea 20v is a pretty cool motor but just stick with the 16v
Stock gts(ae88) rear end, brakes, calipers, oem lsd should be plenty for now.
Give it polyurethane bushings on the suspension, goodridge brake lines, a good brakepad
I wouldn't go with a cheap coilover like BC(just a personal preference) just replace the shocks with Tokico blue shocks, and eibach springs maybe?
I'd wait for the levin front end, i'd focus on getting the car running solid first. Make sure the 16v that is going in is solid, replace old worn out hoses etc.

[AE86DailyDriver]

Just wanted to say thanks for the input so far. I will def. be having a couple of trusted mechanics go over it and see what they recommend. This will be a fairly slow build for me (basically pay check by check) and/or getting lucky at one of the pick-it-part places in the area (Luckily, they are pretty bountaful in my city and surrounding cities especially around the old route 66 path).

I see where you are coming from with the cheap coilover thing. Personally I trust BC racing coilovers, even if they are a cheaper route. Too be honest though, I really don't mind saving up for high end shocks even if they will be overkill. I personally feel that overkill is A-OK when it comes to components that affect safety so much such as suspension and brakes. I just need to spend some more time researching whats available because my knowledge of high-end suspension components available to the 86 is next to nothing. But for now I am def. going to just go with basic shock replacement (either Monroes, Tokicos, etc). Im taking it in either tomorrow or thursday to get the cooling, suspension, brakes, alignment, Cats, and steering overlooked, and ill have him order me the shocks to get them on the next day...Just to get it riding decent for now until I decide what I am going to end up throwing on it.

Also something may have fallen into my lap, not sure yet though...Lets say that hypothetically, I was able to get a 5th gen 3S-GE registered (and pretend that it is 100% legal, just for a fantasy build sake)...What options for the rear end should I be looking at if the RS200 powerplant (engine and trans) were to be swapped in?

[AE86DailyDriver]

The Updated Plan...
So right now I am just trying to get it legally smogged. This week I had it inspected by 2 shops I trust (one a tire and suspension specialist, the other an exhaust and brake specialist) and had a smog test station run a pre-test and inspection as well. Needless to say it failed, but I assumed as much based on the age of the car, the price I got it for, etc. Had the tire shop do an oil and filter change while it was there.

Taking it in on Monday to get a new Cat and Muffler, then as soon as they are done with the install, they are driving it across the street where a mechanic is going to go over all the other emissions components, probably throw on the belts that are missing (Power steering belt and AC belt were both off when I bought the car...assuming because both stopped working) and check to see what the power steering needs...There's my paycheck for wk1-2 Feb.

Later on in the week, hopefully first thing Tuesday morning (but it all depends on what the Mechanic will find in reguards to the EGR and/or other emissions control problems), I'll take it in get it smogged...Probably paying for another pre-test just in case.

Assumming it does infact pass, then Ill take it back to my tire guy and get new tires (probably just a basic street tire, but ill see what he has available), balancing, and allignment done. He priced me out for a set of basic Shock/strut replacements, and with the amount that they will run me, I may as well just wait and save up for something better. With all of that and the above, that will be about all of the free money Ill have available to spend for Feb....Now time to save up for Suspension.

As for suspension, I have been doing tons of research lately and have been going back and forth between the options that I have found. AJPS and HSD just seem too much overkill, as well as too costly and probably too aggresive. The Tiens would be awesome, but way too pricy and hard to find IMO, and probably too aggresive as well (but I would def. put up with the rough ride for the Tien coilovers, haha). So as far as I can tell that leaves me with the BC racing sets (BR and ER type), Greddy or Megan as far as coilovers, or go with Tokico, TRD, Koni, or Blistin shocks and add springs (as I said before, basic OEM replacements are out of the question due to the nominal price difference for better options...Im also throwing out other options like K-sport, D2, etc due to some bad reviews). I considered maybe to see if I could find someone selling just the greddy fronts, then buy the Koni's for the back (probably about the most optimum set-up, and a semi-affordable option)...But too make it quick and easy, I think Ill just go one full set. And for simplicity sake, Ill probably go with a coilover set rather than buy the shocks, springs, etc. seperately. As I said before, I trust BC Racing products myself and haven't really heard much bad reviews about them from 86 owners...ER type is an unneccisary amount of overkill since I wont be heavy on them for long periods of time, so at the moment, my main considerations are the BR series BC coilovers vs the Greddys. I wont be able to afford anything untill the end of March anyways, so I'll still be keeping my options in mind until I save up enough paychecks XD But as it stands now, Ill more than likely try to pick up the BC Racing BR's with their standard spring option for under $1000 and see how they fare me.

When I do infact save up enough for the Coilovers (or whatever set-up my final descision will be) hopefully I was ill have found a decent GTS rear end. That way I can change out the axle, when I do the suspension work. At this time I will also be changing out anything suspension related that i've been adviced to by my mechanics (as of now, the only problems they have found were the shocks, tie rod ends and bellows. So hopefully by early to mid April, I will have that all done.

Once all that is done, and now have complete confidence in how the car rides, mainly the safety aspect, then Ill take it to a general mechanic and have him go over everything with a fine toothed comb, looking for any of those old rubber peices that need to be changed out, in the mean time hopefully I will have found a decent rebuilt gen1 4AGE for an easy swap. Id love to go the gen5 S3GE route, but Id prefer it if I kept the car legally registered and smogged in California. Once Im happy with my AE86, then Ill probably look for a second gen Corolla 2-door sedan or coupe and build it up more aggressivly as my "toy" since I won't have to worry about Smog or anything, and drop the Altezza RS200 in that. I must say though it is very hard resisting the urge to drop one in my AE86.

Brakes seems good for now, but I'll probably want something with a little more stopping power in the future, so either when I do the suspension, I might try to save some extra to get Discs and pads from R1 Concepts, or wait utill after the engine swap and figure out a better settup. Seems like ive been reading that quite a few people use brakes from RX7s, so that might be something to look into. Again, ill have plenty of time to research brake set-ups while im saving up for the suspension. Probably while I do my research and saving up for the brakes, ill be saving up for the right wheel and tire set-up as well...Assuming if I go with bigger rotors and calipers, i might need different rims to fit...then Ill look for better tires as well.

After all of that, then I will be looking for the appearance/comfort things as well as the small additions such as swaybars, etc. Probably start by saving up for R134 A/C conversion. Keeping an R12 system running, and even more so buying the gas for it, is ridiculusly expensive to do and near impossible to find a shop who will do it in Southern California now. So ill probably just bite the bullit on the price for the conversion, and make life easier in the future as well as not suffering when we get our summer heat waves. Its already got a decent CD player and the Speakers aren't too bad (not very good, but not bad either), so i'm fine with the sound until later down the line (Im happy to even have the radio let alone CD player and aux input...Seeing how the car I have been driving around for the past year had no working sound at all. haha. So after the AC conversion, Ill probably worry about the body. The Levin front clip seems like a pipe dream, unless I get lucky in finding a good one for a good price. Im gonna start by changing the rear bumper...Probably just to an aftermarket peice that makes a clone of the JDM rear...Just to get rid of the huge, ugly USDM bumber. Then Ill look to the front. Ill probaly end up doing the same thing, just an after market one...maybe a Trueno clone and get a Trueno grill to go with it. But this will be quite a long ways down the line.

Again, this is all tentative, and depends on available funds, part availablility, changing my mind, etc. After I get the suspension all done and get decent tired on it, I may decide that I love how it rides even with the stock 4AC, and decide to keep it as is. Doubtful knowing me, but who knows. I honestly think that once I get a 4AGE in there, I ought to be happy for a couple of years with it, just by the coolness factor, but Ill probably end up going for more power later on. Either building it up for a turbo (maybe even one of those Turbo/electronic Spercharger hybrid designs like in the new F1 Renaults, id be in heaven), a slightly built up 20 V Silver or Black top, or even break down and say F it and drop in the RS200 motor and heck with the consiquences...of course upgrading brakes, suspension, and drivetrain as needed to handle the extra power.

[yellowsnow4free]

Wow, that is a lot of text, but I actually read through all of it!

As others here have said, start with general maintenance and stuff; you're gonna have to deal with that regardless of what engine you put in.

+1 for the T3 shifter rebuild kit; probably the best upgrade I've done on my car.

And I think someone else said this, but don't be afraid to get your hands dirty. I understand paying a mechanic to do some tasks, but for general maintenance you should save some $ and do it yourself (Google / YouTube are your friends here).

But you're right in thinking about your eventual plans now; no sense sinking $ into a 4AC if you eventually want to swap to something else later.

Here's something that caught my eye and could save you some $:

Regarding your A/C, don't do the R134 conversion. It's expensive and won't get the same results as R12 (yes, I know you can't get it in CA).

Instead check out the "quick-charge kit" here: http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm

ES-12a is a R12 substitute that (I think) you can get in CA. If you order from that site you can upgrade the kit to use Industrial 12a (colder) for $7.00 extra. I haven't pursued it yet, but maybe you can find an A/C shop that is familiar with R12 substitutes.

Here is an interesting engine swap for 4AC drivers:

http://forums.club4ag.com/zeropost?cmd=tshow&id=42373

http://www.86garage.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2726&sid=b2a110a9f6bbb72907498add8e8a1aaf

Now it isn't smog legal, but aside from the oil pan it's almost impossible to tell it isn't a 4AC.

Lastly, here's a site dedicated to 4AC (and related) engines; it's very good for 4AC info:

http://4ac-powered.forumotion.com/

Good luck and have fun

[yoshimitsuspeed]

I have to say, if I lived in CA my engine mods would take a much different route than my choices in the past but my more recent thoughts much more closely parallel changes that I would make anyway if I lived in CA.
Part of that is the fact that in the last 10 years a number of USDM motors have come out that are pretty sweet. I have to say the beams has never impressed me that much. OEM, NA power to displacement is pretty good but meh just not that amazing.
Especially if I lived in CA but even not I would be much more likely to consider USDM options. If you can find a RWD trans for a beams you can find a RWD trans for a 3SGTE that will officially put a beams in it's place.
Want the same kind of power without worrying about a turbo how about a 1GR? Engine weighs about the same as a 3SGTE. The trans may add a couple more pounds but unless you are entering in tractor pulls it should take about anything you could throw at it.

[AE86DailyDriver]

New Cat and Muffler are on. I think Ill take it back to the Smog test station and get another pre-test when I feel that I have broken in the Cat, before having a mechanic go over my emissions control equipment. There's a small chance that the new Cat will be enough to get me passing, and for $20 bucks I figure I may as well give it a go.

Touching up on some of the replies that I might have missed...
As for the shift kit, seems great, but its an auto...and for the moment it is staying that way. My primary purpose of this car is a Daily Driver, and I greatly prefer the 4-speed when I am sitting in rush hour and/or weekend vacation traffic on my way to work in the evenings.

Once I get the suspension work that I want done, then I will start working on it with my own hands for the most part. I have friends (one with mechanic shop experience) that have spent years building Baja bugs and trophy trucks as well as do all of the work on their own cars and trucks themselves, so I'll be able to pay them in beer and pocket change money to give me a hand after doing my research on the specifics.

Ill take the A/c quick charge kit in mind until it gets to that time when I make my decision on which route I want to go with in that regard.

As for the engine, I doubt Ill go a 6 cylinder route. Ill probably stick with a I4 or maybe a flat 4 or 2Rotor (but it would be nice to stay a Toyota powerplant). For now im still more set on a gen 1 4age, at least for the short term and probably building it up a little bit. If I decide to go a different route later on, Im sure weight and weight distribution will still be a huge concern, but I think I may be more interested in the way it puts down the power and drives...plus I'll have a bit more funds available them, so the possibilities will be greater.
As for non-Toyota/USDM choices, an LNF sounds fun (When looking for my car, I was also looking for a gen 1 Isuzu Impulse with the intention of a LNF swap), but in an AE86...It's probably more power than I would ever need, or even should have. haha.
We will see what the future holds for me though.

[AE86DailyDriver]

Isn't it funny that no matter how much you plan and think things out with cars, somehow it gets skewed?
Anyways when I was driving to work in the Corolla this weekend, I threw a belt and started overheating...By the time I got off the freeway and parked at a gas station, it was smoking pretty bad. Ive been warned by a few of my car enthusiast friends and co-workers that if it was smoking that bad, there's a good chance that the engine suffered some damage. Been looking at the cost and work involved with changing the V-belts, so hopefully either today or tomorrow i'll have some time to drive over to a buddies house (about 2 miles away) and we can put on some new ones and hope for the best.

So if that doesn't work then left with only a few options: take apart, inspect, and rebuild the 4A-C; or bump up my swap plans earlier than expected

If the engine proves to have taken internal damage, then in the next few days, Ill probably be focusing on hunting down a new engine (probably either blue-top, 20 valve, or GZE). I guess depending on how the new belts work out and/or what I find this week will decide how I go.

As of now my engine preferences have changed slightly. Ultimately I think I'd like to end up with either a mildly built 4aGE blue-top keeping in the true spirit of the car, or if I want more N/a power, then build upon a Blacktop 20 valve instead. But I may decide to add a bit of turbo power in the long run using one of the hybrid builds out there (mild 4AGTE: gze bottom with silvertop top, or moderately built 5SGTE: 5sge bottom with 3sgte top)..right now im leaning a bit more towards the Blue-top or Turbo 4Ag build, but we shall she what becomes available to me...But whatever block I do end up putting in, I will be keeping it stock for a good while first though.

[redroku87]

1. Where did you get the Skyline?
2. AE86=no reliable.

[AE86DailyDriver]

The C10 Skyline is on the list for my future cars. One day Ill import one over. That wont be for quite a few years though XD. The entire bottom row in my signature are all cars I plan on adding to my collection a few years down the line.

As for the AE86 not being reliable, I feel that it would be a very reliable car if taken care of properly. As for my SR5, I just bought it not too long ago for $1,000 USD, so I knew I was going to have to throw some money into it to get it running correctly. It was only a matter of time that something like the Fuel pump/Alternator belt incident would have happened. Its just a shame that I couldnt have had more time to save up some money for suspension and brakes before the engine started giving me troubles. But that's the gamble you take when you buy a 30 year old car from a private party.

[redroku87]

They are old, are there are a lot of times trying to find parts for them has resulted in a huge NOPE for me.

[AE86DailyDriver]

Alright, so Im trying to get everything together to make a Blacktop 4A-GE swap...on paper first so I know what I am getting into first. This is for a complete, swap ready, BLACKTOP into a pretty much stock automatic SR5 by the way! Stock Blacktop ECU, using Blacktop pumps, pullies, etc.

From what I have researched, this is my current situation with it. It's hard for me to know for sure though, since i'm far from experienced with this kind of stuff, and it seems like just about all of the guides I am reading are for GTS Corollas for a 20v swap, where I am going straight from SR5 to a 20v without the GTS conversion inbetween...Plus it seems most of the guides are written by ppl from AUS/NZ and are quite a few years old. So I am not sure how much of it equates to being different or the same with US models, nor if better options have since come out since they were written.

-Mounts are prob the 30 yr old stock ones, so I'll probably spend some money on the Cusco mounts.
-For intake, im torn between trumpets with screen filters, or the K1 Filtered Velocity stacks. Im sure the open trumpets would gain more power, but Im shooting for reliability at the moment, so Im leaning towards the K1's.
-Ignition: Torn between SQ dizzy relocation kit (simplist route avoiding molesting my firewall), or doing a 1nz Coil-on-plug settup (not sure how reliable this option is though)...My problems with the Dizzy kit, is that a year or so down the line, I plan on using the same head for a fully built 7A-GE build and I'll probably want to run an adjustable exhaust cam pully (the purple HKS one looks sexy with a clear timing cover), so if I set-up for coil packs now, it not only will save me money now, but also money and time later on.
-Cooling route: Im probably gonna go with the T3 kit. Yeah its expensive as hell, but it seems like the best option as far as it seeming to be the easiest solution that will ensure the head is getting cooled enough. Yeah, some ppl think the pipes are an eyesore, but from what I can tell it looks fine to me.
-Throttle cable: SQ seems to think the LHD cars stock cable will work fine, but I am not sure.
-ECU: Stock Blacktop ECU, no piggyback
-Wiring: Tweaked's SR5 to 20v seems like the obvious option for me. Directly made for my exact situation.
-Exhuast manifold issue: Probably go one of the DIY routes. Performance headers would be nice, but I'll probably wait until later

I know I still have more to work out. Such as the fuel system requirements, I have no idea what I am going do for that, nor do I really know my options.
As the for the radiator and fans, I havent figured that out yet. I actually bought a brand new OEM replacement radiator not too long ago, so If I could get away with using that with an electric fan shroud, then great. But I am not sure if that would provide enough cooling if im stuck in rush hour on my way to work during the hot summer...Im in Southern California by the way, so an hour drive of stop and go traffic in temps over 110 is likely to happen a time or two. So I might need to play it safe and just a performance radiator as well.

That is about the only issues that I am fully aware of that I will have to deal with. I'll try to hunt down a Serivce manual for a 20v engine if I can find one, so that way my mechanic buddies have something to go with when it comes to all of the sensors and stuff, but I dunno how easy that will be to do. :/
And I am sure that I am missing some other important factors reguarding this build, so any advice is welcome.

[yoshimitsuspeed]

I guess I didn't post this in my last reply and dang a lot has happened since then.

Like I did say above, if I was building a car in CA I would take a much different approach on the build.
I love the 20 valve motors but I would not run one in CA.
Here is a customer of mine running a set of poncams and a set of 11:1 pistons of my design in his largeport 16v.



Here you can see some 20 valve dynos
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=6288

As you can see a 16v with cams and compression is pretty easy to get very competitive with a 20v.

In your situation it has a bucketload of advantages that would save you a lot of time, money and hassle.


I am not positive this combination will pass emissions but the cams aren't too wild so it should be possible. Any way you cut it you will have a much easier time than you would with a 20v.
Instead of doing a full 20v conversion you are basically doing a GTS conversion. Faster, cheaper and easier.
No dizzy relocation.
Easier wiring. I'd think you could just find a used GTS harness and ECU from someone on the boards.
You also end up with a fully rebuilt motor instead of dropping in a used engine and hoping for the best.

The cost of both options has too many variables to easily predict but if you do a similar amount of work on both the cost should be in favor of the 16v especially if you buy a harness and dizzy relocate kit. That would pay for your cams and pistons. Then you just need to find a healthy 16v which should be pretty cheap and then pay for any machine work and rebuild that you aren't comfortable with.


This is the piston I designed. It is non interference with the poncam and stock valves. 11:1 CR.

[AE86DailyDriver]

Thanks Yoshi...At the time I'm not worrying passing the emissions/inspection anymore. I know I was before, but Im at a "F-it" point when it comes to the regulations out here. I guess I've been hanging out with my constitutionist and Libertarian buddies too much. haha.
I see what you are saying, as for the 16v vs 20v concern, after I get enough money saved up, I am actually be building a 20v 7A-GE. So im not going to want to spend hardly any money at all on a 16v really. And buying any 16v now, means a total engine rebuild before even considering to throw it in. While seal kits and light engine mods might not be a lot, all together it does add up along with the cleaning and machine work. And more so, more work than I'd want to put into an engine I plan on running less than a year. Also, buying a Blacktop now saves me the hassel of getting one later. Also I'd imagine that setting up my car now to run a Blacktop would make getting the 7A-FE block in easy as pie. So id rather spend a few thousand now driving something mild (conservative driving using a Blacktop with stock internals) but would already be set-up for a good base for the 7A-GE conversion.

[sekang0]

I need a piston like that for 272/9mm!

[AE86DailyDriver]

So Im Just about done with the outline for everything i need for the BT swap, so far:
-Complete 4A-GE Blacktop engine, with all periferals, ECU, maniforlds, throtles, cut wiring, etc
-Cusco Engine mounts
-T3 Waterline kit
-Tweak'd SR5 to 20v complete harness (set-up for COP)
-SQ COP Adapter Plate
-1nz Coil plugs
-SQ Distributor Blocking plate
-K1 Filtered Velocity Stacks
-Walbro 255 Pump with Install kit
-Braided High pressure fuel lines
-Electric Radiator Fan

What else do I need to get the Fuel System up to par (Inline filter?...Better tank or Fuel cell?..etc) I'd like to keep it as reliable and as clean/simple as possible, so spending a little more of my fuel system now would be A-OK with me. Keep in mind, I plan on putting together a built 7A-GE 20v...So Id be looking for a solution that would suit not only a stock 20v BT, but also the more powerful 7AG that should be going in in about a year down the line, hopefully less.
Am I missing anything else? Vacuum sensor maybe...Or do they usually come with swap-ready engines?

[AE86DailyDriver]

So I'm picking up an engine today. Its just got pulled last night from an AE86, so it's already set up for it:
Complete with T50 trans (gearbox, bellhousing, Starter, flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch, assembly, etc) as well as SQ waterline kit, Tweak'd Harness setup for COP, Coil Packs, and Velocity stacks.
The engine is a fairly complete swap engine as well (intake side all there, pumps, ECU, etc) minus the exhause manifold.
I know I was going to try to make the 20v swap work (somehow) on an automatic, but it's giving me a headache trying to figure out all of the extra crap I need, not to mention the cost and work it would be to get a later model toyota automatic, or buy/build a custom automatic and TCU setup for such an engine...So screw it, Ill take the easy route after all.

So here is a list of what all I believe I still need:
-4age manifold with gasket, or aftermarket headers
-Engine Mounts (or fiberglass my stock mounts)
-Transmission Mount (if it's different than the mount for the automatic)
-Vacuum sensor (These are body mounted right, not engine mounted?)- One from a 7A-FE car would work just fine right?
-Throttle Cable (although Ive heard conflicking arguements on this stating that the USDM SR5's is actually long enough to work)
-GTS, a fuel cell replacement, or weld a baffle box in my stock SR5 tank
-High Pressure fuel pump
-EFI fuel lines
-Inline fuel filter (am I looking at any particular types?)
-Anything else I need for the Fuel system to work?
-Stick shift lever and base
-Master Clutch cylinder
-Slave Clutch Cyliner
-Clutch pedal and cable
-GTS drive shaft (or aftermarket one peice)
-M/T radiator
-Electric fans

And that is all that I can think of, I am sure I'm probably missing something. So please look it over and see if you notice anything Im missing for the 20v instal itself, the EFI fuel system conversion, and/or the stick shift conversion.

Right now I am running the stock SR5 rear end, but I hope to be getting a complete GTV rear end soon, so that will be going on.
And as for rebuilding the engine...Supposidily its all good, but who knows. But the plan is the get it up and running in my car, then Ill run a compression test...then if it seems a bit off a leakdown, then I'll do all of the seals, gaskets, and bolts if it's needed.

So yeah, look it over please, add any input you might have, and wish me luck. I posted a listing for these parts at http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=10980, basically saying the same thing. So if you have anything you be willing to sell, then feel free to reply there, or here...it's all the same to me.

[AE86DailyDriver]

So I am looking for a GTS fuel tank as well as Fuel Pump kits for GTS's...So assuming I get a GTS tank and I buy one of these kits but downgrade to a Walbro pump better suited to my needs (Im thinking between 100-120 LPH) rather than the 255 unit, what else am I going to need? The pumps say they have a filter built into them, so does that mean the need for a inline filter (that so many conversion guides have mentioned) is unnecessary?

An example of kit I am look at is here: http://www.fuelpumps.com/toyota-fuel-pumps-c-75/toyota-corolla-fuel-pumps-c-75_853/19851987-toyota-corolla-fuel-pump-4-cyl-16l-gts-coupe-p-3316.html
...Assume I am able to downgrade to the fabled GSS310 (115 LPH) Walbro pump, and have a GTS tank installed...What all am I needing to have my fuel system up to par with the 4AGE Blacktop Engine? Are all of the fuel lines and everything else I need included on these kits?

*If I can't find the GSS310 pump, then I might look for something like this kit then: http://www.fuel-pumps.net/gca3334.html...Less flow than the 115 LPH rated Walbro, but still more than enough for a stock 20v in a daily driver to get me around for a year until the big upgrades.