Silvertop 20v valve tick

[tommy_t]

I just purchased an 87 MR2 with a Silvertop 20v 4age.

I did a compression test before purchasing and everything checked out. I also test drove it twice before purchasing it.

The day after I brought it home, I noticed a valve tick from what appears to be the exhaust side, but I can't confirm it because I do not own a stethoscope. I took it to a mechanic and he confirmed that it sounds like a valve tick, but he was not able to provide more info without cracking it open.

I read that using the wrong weight of oil can cause similar issues. The owner told me that the car uses 5w-30 and regular gas. From what I understand, a 50 weight oil is recommended and also premium should be used for gas. I have also read that octane boosters may be needed to get it closer to 100 octane.

I changed the oil to 20w-50 and I filled the car with premium, but the tick only gets worse. Of course, the owner is claiming to know nothing of the issue.

Does anyone know anything else I can try?


There are no mods to the engine other than an air filter.

Thanks!

[allencr]

I read that using the wrong weight of oil can cause similar issues.
Does anyone know anything else I can try?

I don't know where you could read anything like that about any engine except something written by a fool on the net - do not read ridiculous stuff on the net, something only written once & not confirmed by any one any where else!
Yes. Measure the lash. All valve lashs/gaps open up when hot, so its sound should be more noticeable when hot, maybe even joined by a few others.
Use a piece of hose for a stethoscope.
You should be able to hear ALL 20 of them ticking, some more then others, with no fear of any anything being wrong & ready to fail, unliss that 'tick' is more like a hammer on a railroad track.
I'd be more concerned about them being too tight & making no sound.
Checking the lash on a newly acquired engine should be SOP, along with changing all fluids.
Good luck.

[tommy_t]

Thanks for the reply.

I actually read that in multiple places. It does not surprise me at all that it is BS.

The tick is not extremely loud.

I am taking it to Forged Performance in Atlanta tomorrow to have them to do a quick look to confirm.

I will probably check the lash next weekend. I will provide updates.


Thanks for the help.

[tommy_t]

By the way, here are a couple of examples that I found mentioning that the wrong oil could cause the valvetrain noise.

I am definitely not going to take one person's opinion about something like this. I researched quite a bit and the way people were speaking, it almost sounded as if it was common knowledge that using the wrong oil could cause this problem.

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=28165
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=77344
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forum ... f8d15af8d7
http://www.trinituner.com/v3/forums/vie ... hp?t=96772
http://forum.lotusregister.co.za/defaul ... osts&t=337

I also plan to check the VVTI pulley.

[onnaj]

Same here. Just a bit valve noise from the head. It's a LOT less after adjusting the valve clearances, but still is there. Happily i almost don;t hear it in the car anymore.

I think my break-in oil is causing this, so i'm happy when i can return to normal oil . Only 700 miles left and then it's over with break-in

[tommy_t]

I have been trying to test the VVT pulley but every time I connect the leads, the car stalls out. Am I doing something wrong?

I am placing the negative to the terminal that is nearest to the gear....

[tommy_t]

It is the vvt pulley.

I have been reading that this will not damage the engine and that the only true issue is the noise. There could also be some decrease in performance. Does that sound correct?

I found a place that can get me one but it is $500 and it will take 8-12 weeks to get here...

Thanks for the help everyone.

[yoshimitsuspeed]

By the way, here are a couple of examples that I found mentioning that the wrong oil could cause the valvetrain noise.

I am definitely not going to take one person's opinion about something like this. I researched quite a bit and the way people were speaking, it almost sounded as if it was common knowledge that using the wrong oil could cause this problem.

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=28165
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=77344
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forum ... f8d15af8d7
http://www.trinituner.com/v3/forums/vie ... hp?t=96772
http://forum.lotusregister.co.za/defaul ... osts&t=337

I also plan to check the VVTI pulley.

OMG almost every person in all those threads must be completely high.
I love the

Blacktop should be running 20W50 man.... lol check the manual

And

considering all 4AGE's (cept for 20v's) are designed to run on 20w50 mineral..

Where the F are people pulling this information from?
I looked in the BT BGB and found the exact same diagram I have seen in the 1988 and 1989 BGBs.
Just found this with the exact diagram I found in the BT BGB which looks just like the digram in the other 4AGE BGBs.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=2785966

If you live somewhere really hot you might be better off running a 10w40 or maybe even a 20w50. Personally I would run 10w30 if it doesn't spend much time over 100f where you live.

I can get supertech shims that are supposed to fit the 20 valves and I am working on putting together a shim bank so let me know if you need shims.

[furqan]

Nice surprise about this shorter form. Can you tell us what it is you are talking/writing about?
Has any info. about this shorter form been posted before (and i just missed it)?

[allencr]

I am placing the negative to the terminal that is nearest to the gear....

Short circuiting the wire that energizes the VVwhatever's oil valve solenoid?
That is NFG. Disconnect or power it only! NOW.

[tommy_t]

I am placing the negative to the terminal that is nearest to the gear....

Short circuiting the wire that energizes the VVwhatever's oil valve solenoid?
That is NFG. Disconnect or power it only! NOW.

Allen,


I was testing the issue to confirm that it was indeed the pulley by running 12v to the solenoid. I believe I was just connecting the leads for too long a period of time and that was causing the engine to stall.

Once I placed the lead for a shorter period of time, it wouldn't stall completely. It was just bog out for a second and once I removed the lead, it would run fine again.

Is this an issue?

I was not trying to short circuit it. I have since reconnected everything and the car is running the same as before. Of course, the VVT pulley still sounds awful but it runs fine.

Being that the engine is in reverse due to the mid engine layout, it is very hard to get to the solenoid since it is facing the rear of the engine. It is possible that I did short it at one point, but I am not sure. How concerned should I be?


Thanks

[tommy_t]

By the way, here are a couple of examples that I found mentioning that the wrong oil could cause the valvetrain noise.

I am definitely not going to take one person's opinion about something like this. I researched quite a bit and the way people were speaking, it almost sounded as if it was common knowledge that using the wrong oil could cause this problem.

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=28165
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=77344
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forum ... f8d15af8d7
http://www.trinituner.com/v3/forums/vie ... hp?t=96772
http://forum.lotusregister.co.za/defaul ... osts&t=337

I also plan to check the VVTI pulley.

OMG almost every person in all those threads must be completely high.
I love the

Blacktop should be running 20W50 man.... lol check the manual

And

considering all 4AGE's (cept for 20v's) are designed to run on 20w50 mineral..

Where the F are people pulling this information from?
I looked in the BT BGB and found the exact same diagram I have seen in the 1988 and 1989 BGBs.
Just found this with the exact diagram I found in the BT BGB which looks just like the digram in the other 4AGE BGBs.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=2785966

If you live somewhere really hot you might be better off running a 10w40 or maybe even a 20w50. Personally I would run 10w30 if it doesn't spend much time over 100f where you live.

I can get supertech shims that are supposed to fit the 20 valves and I am working on putting together a shim bank so let me know if you need shims.

Thanks for the info. I am changing to 10w30 today.

[allencr]

...changing to 10w30 today.

Why? Hope not in the belief that something is wrong or that something different is going to happen.
If you're not in Norway putting gear oil in it or Morocco with 0-5, It's fine, you'll do MUCH MORE serious wear to the engine by starting it with an empty un-primed filter then then by not changing a few SAE grades on a whim.
Don't F with what ain't wrong.

[tommy_t]

...changing to 10w30 today.

Why? Hope not in the belief that something is wrong or that something different is going to happen.
If you're not in Norway putting gear oil in it or Morocco with 0-5, It's fine, you'll do MUCH MORE serious wear to the engine by starting it with an empty un-primed filter then then by not changing a few SAE grades on a whim.
Don't F with what ain't wrong.

Thanks for all the help Allen.

Forgive my ignorance, but are you stating that I need to prime the oil filter every time I change the filter or are you just stating that it should not be a big issue to run this oil in general? I'm just confused by that statement...

Also, just reposting my previous question regarding your comment that I should not be shorting out the solenoid....:

I was testing the issue to confirm that it was indeed the pulley by running 12v to the solenoid. I believe I was just connecting the leads for too long a period of time and that was causing the engine to stall.

Once I placed the lead for a shorter period of time, it wouldn't stall completely. It was just bog out for a second and once I removed the lead, it would run fine again.

Is this an issue?

I was not trying to short circuit it. I have since reconnected everything and the car is running the same as before. Of course, the VVT pulley still sounds awful but it runs fine.

Being that the engine is in reverse due to the mid engine layout, it is very hard to get to the solenoid since it is facing the rear of the engine. It is possible that I did short it at one point, but I am not sure. How concerned should I be?