Re: I have a 4age frankenstein and its driving me crazy
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 10:11 am
So I played around with it some more.
Injectors are 2 ohm, resistor box in place. I am keeping it there obviously.
Distributor is 4 wire. Don't know if the ecu wants 3 or 4 wire.
I also re-did my timing belt. Here's a weird thing that happens. I align the cam and crank marks to tdc positions, make sure everything is tight on non-tensioning side, push the tensioner pulley to the right and tighten it. Make a full revolution and as soon as I do the crank pulley does not align to zero anymore, it is stupidly close, but it goes like a mm or two off its positions, towards the 5 degrees mark. I did it a few times and it happens every time. Am I doing something wrong? I tension the non-tensioning side first, starting from exhaust pulley, then attach the belt to the intake pulley and then tighten with the tensioner pulley.
Also there's a sound when I rotate the engine by hand when I get close to tdc, cant figure out where the sound is coming from sounds like alternator or the tensioner pulley. Any ideas what it could be? Cant describe the sound, sounds mechanical I guess, but not like metal touching metal or anything, different.
I made new timing marks and actually managed to time it this time and it its 16-17 outside of diagnostic mode. On cam pulleys it looks like 1 tooth, maybe a tiny bit less.
Drove the car again. Idle is still stupid-ish, there are pulses of rough running and the occasional misfire, 2 and 8 flashes of course still there after resetting faults. Cars feels pretty fast and pretty good. But I tought it wasn't too bad when it ran with the skipped tooth belt....so my ideas of what is running good and fast are stupid. Need to "race" it again against my suzuki dd as a reference point.
I also ordred a used afm and a used aw11 distributor with the number my ecu needs according to toyodiy, also ordered a rebuild kit for it. Can't wait for it to arrive. Worst case scenario I get a spare, nothing bad about having spare parts for cars like this I guess.
Injectors are 2 ohm, resistor box in place. I am keeping it there obviously.
Distributor is 4 wire. Don't know if the ecu wants 3 or 4 wire.
I also re-did my timing belt. Here's a weird thing that happens. I align the cam and crank marks to tdc positions, make sure everything is tight on non-tensioning side, push the tensioner pulley to the right and tighten it. Make a full revolution and as soon as I do the crank pulley does not align to zero anymore, it is stupidly close, but it goes like a mm or two off its positions, towards the 5 degrees mark. I did it a few times and it happens every time. Am I doing something wrong? I tension the non-tensioning side first, starting from exhaust pulley, then attach the belt to the intake pulley and then tighten with the tensioner pulley.
Also there's a sound when I rotate the engine by hand when I get close to tdc, cant figure out where the sound is coming from sounds like alternator or the tensioner pulley. Any ideas what it could be? Cant describe the sound, sounds mechanical I guess, but not like metal touching metal or anything, different.
I made new timing marks and actually managed to time it this time and it its 16-17 outside of diagnostic mode. On cam pulleys it looks like 1 tooth, maybe a tiny bit less.
Drove the car again. Idle is still stupid-ish, there are pulses of rough running and the occasional misfire, 2 and 8 flashes of course still there after resetting faults. Cars feels pretty fast and pretty good. But I tought it wasn't too bad when it ran with the skipped tooth belt....so my ideas of what is running good and fast are stupid. Need to "race" it again against my suzuki dd as a reference point.
I also ordred a used afm and a used aw11 distributor with the number my ecu needs according to toyodiy, also ordered a rebuild kit for it. Can't wait for it to arrive. Worst case scenario I get a spare, nothing bad about having spare parts for cars like this I guess.