808AE86inAZ wrote:A word to the wise. If/when using the MSD Tach Adapter, do not mount it in the passenger compartment… the buzz it creates is annoying as all hell! Jus moved mine out to the eng conpartment today, SOOO much better!!!

I've gotten used to it but yea some days I want to move it out into the engine compartment...

Whats up fellow Carbed enthusiasts!

After reading this full thread come continue the discussion over at "Carbed Toyotas"




http://https://www.facebook.com/groups/CarbedToyotas/

What does an advance curve look like for these engines?
I have a mildly tuned big port 16v(10.8:1 cr; Poncams; 40mm Webers) running a MSD 6al-2 with a straight line from ~10deg BTDC at idle to max advance (~33) at 4000rpm. It runs great, but I am looking to optimize the curve. I am using the stock distributor and do not have vacuum advance.

Okay, I just made some adjustments on the MSD. I initially had the dizzy locked out and a "retard curve" set at 25deg retard from 500-1500rpm then slope to 0degs retard at 4000rpm. It ran good but lost power at the upper end. I set the MSD to 0degs flat line and then set my idle timing to 10BTDC. As I was doing this I rev'ed the motor and noticed centrifugal advance! I verified that the MSD had the new zero retard curve. I thought these distributors where "locked" at ~37degs? I made a timing scale and added it to the timing marks on the engine. I set the max advance at 35degs while holding the revs at ~ 4000rpm. My idle timing is now about 5 BTDC!? It runs great and pulls much harder at all rpm and pulls to 7500 easily! ... with no run retard from the MSD!
Video... https://youtu.be/UATNY349BP4

Good Morning, I am very new to the 4age world. I have a bigport and a t50 that I'm thinking about putting into my 77 celica ra29.

I have removed the intake and t vis as I will be running dcoe's.

so a few questions
Can the carb manifold be bolted on without the tvis plate or the t3 spacer i've seen?

what are these inserts in my engine head. my manifold will not butt up tightly as the holes are not large enough on the manifold to accept the inserts?






I've read that I can gut the t vis plate and use it as a spacer only?? That would give me a bit more runner lenth and the mating face of the t vis plat is properly bored to accept those inserts.

I've pretty much read this thread before asking and it seems no one else has had this issue??

Thanks in advance for your help and I'm enjoying reading all the knowledgeable input here.

Cheers
Neil

Gregxster wrote:Okay, I just made some adjustments on the MSD. I initially had the dizzy locked out and a "retard curve" set at 25deg retard from 500-1500rpm then slope to 0degs retard at 4000rpm. It ran good but lost power at the upper end. I set the MSD to 0degs flat line and then set my idle timing to 10BTDC. As I was doing this I rev'ed the motor and noticed centrifugal advance! I verified that the MSD had the new zero retard curve. I thought these distributors where "locked" at ~37degs? I made a timing scale and added it to the timing marks on the engine. I set the max advance at 35degs while holding the revs at ~ 4000rpm. My idle timing is now about 5 BTDC!? It runs great and pulls much harder at all rpm and pulls to 7500 easily! ... with no run retard from the MSD!
Video... https://youtu.be/UATNY349BP4

I run the cheaper street-fire box by msd on my celica,

The 20r runs solely on mechanical/centrifugal advance. I use the box only for the multispark function a low revs to help burn the fuel more completely.

Good that you've all those revs now!

neil

77ra29gt wrote:Good Morning, I am very new to the 4age world. I have a bigport and a t50 that I'm thinking about putting into my 77 celica ra29.

I have removed the intake and t vis as I will be running dcoe's.

so a few questions
Can the carb manifold be bolted on without the tvis plate or the t3 spacer i've seen?

what are these inserts in my engine head. my manifold will not butt up tightly as the holes are not large enough on the manifold to accept the inserts?






I've read that I can gut the t vis plate and use it as a spacer only?? That would give me a bit more runner lenth and the mating face of the t vis plat is properly bored to accept those inserts.

I've pretty much read this thread before asking and it seems no one else has had this issue??

Thanks in advance for your help and I'm enjoying reading all the knowledgeable input here.

Cheers
Neil

ANYONE? Are these just guides and can I remove them to install the manifold?

Thanks
Neil

You can remove those. They are just guides for aligning the t-vis. I'm not running no spacer(s) on my carb intake manifold, I just had to change to shorter bolts and studs because the stock bolts are too long and were designed to accommodate the t-vis and stock intake plenum.

Thought I'd throw up a few pics of my 4age on R1 Mikuni carbs.




https://vimeo.com/136498530


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

El Gato Felix wrote:You can remove those. They are just guides for aligning the t-vis. I'm not running no spacer(s) on my carb intake manifold, I just had to change to shorter bolts and studs because the stock bolts are too long and were designed to accommodate the t-vis and stock intake plenum.

Thank you sir! Not sure if I'll remove them or not. The weber manifold is only about 2" depth so the t-vis plate will help keep some length to add to the total runner length.

Thanks for the response
Neil

Lost the tvis plate. It will only restrict flow.

Make sure your carb mani is for a large port. If it is not, then yes, you will need the T3 plate

Has anyone done the in-tank route? The listed pumps are obviously not GT-S oem (one is actually the OEM replacement for my friends '78 Corona). I'm just curious how it was mounted/held in place, and if a GT-S in-tank bracket was needed, or if you could use the SR-5 dummy bracket that comes with its tank?

yukesrevolver wrote:Has anyone done the in-tank route? The listed pumps are obviously not GT-S oem (one is actually the OEM replacement for my friends '78 Corona). I'm just curious how it was mounted/held in place, and if a GT-S in-tank bracket was needed, or if you could use the SR-5 dummy bracket that comes with its tank?

My friend is bolting his external pump in the cargo pocket to the right of the spare. (kind of big pump)

If you have a long shaped pump, you can mount it fairly flush to the frame with a bracket.

You can use your sr5 bracket's straw, it will be a tad smaller than optimal but you should be fine. You can get fancy and fab up your own AN fittings

If you do end up w. a GTS bracket, you can just leave an old fuel pump on there and it will suck through it. or replace with hose

Just a little home made upgrade I made to fix the whole bike carb throttle size difference issue. I wish CAD parts weren't so damn expensive or i'd just get someone to CNC mill one, but this will do nicely. Just need to find smaller hardware to attatch the two throttle wheels...

Can anyone please tell me a few things:
1) is the magnetic pickup being used the "4point wheel" as opposed the single point wheel in the distr.
2) which wires would they be? I am thinking in my distributor it is the red and white wire connector (female blades) that go to the red and brown wires inside the distributor. Other diagrams previously posted show green and grey or white wires together and red with black or grey. Kinda confusing for me
3) what wire is + and which is - for the pickup

Thanks!

SR85DET wrote:ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444926286.239930.jpg
Can anyone please tell me a few things:
1) is the magnetic pickup being used the "4point wheel" as opposed the single point wheel in the distr.
2) which wires would they be? I am thinking in my distributor it is the red and white wire connector (female blades) that go to the red and brown wires inside the distributor. Other diagrams previously posted show green and grey or white wires together and red with black or grey. Kinda confusing for me
3) what wire is + and which is - for the pickup

Thanks!

7 years and almost 11 months later: The "4point wheel" : red & white (female blades).