davew7 wrote:I'm running almost the same set-up with the stock ECU. Slightly less lift, CR, and no TVIS. Try advancing the intake 3*. If you are willing to break into the engine, a thinner head gasket would also help. Dave W

yoshimitsuspeed wrote:The TVIS should always be a benefit to low end. The only reason to remove it is when the whole intake becomes such a restriction to top end performance that it's worth sacrificing the low end losses for much more top end with a completely different manifold setup or ITBs.

yoshimitsuspeed wrote:As suggested you might try playing with the cam timing. Those are tiny cams so with your small compression bump the low end should feel similar to stock.

http://club4ag.com/tech-data/camshaft-story-revised/ wrote:Using adjustable cam sprockets can optimize the performance of any cam. This allows for “degreeing” in the proper cam timing for the particular engine and intended use. This procedure is best carried out on a dynamometer so that quantifiable results can be measured. The advancing or retardation of cam timing will affect the peak power of the engine by moving the power band up or down the curve. There are many adjustable cam sprockets to choose from, each differing in design from all aluminum to using steel (less thermal expansion), but the most convenient to use are the ones with precision markings to allow for track turning and returning to the original settings. In general, advancing both camshafts increases bottom-end power and retarding both cams will increase top-end by giving higher peak RPM power. On twin-cam engines, changing the lobe center separation between exhaust and intake will change the valve overlap. This can be used to improve top-end or bottom-end, but this depends on the critical placement of the intake closing and exhaust opening events. The placement of both events has a significant effect on power, i.e., exhaust valve opening determines the beginning of the exhaust cycle and cylinder blow down, and the placement of the intake closing event fixes the balance between cylinder filling and intake reversion. It must be emphasized that this is only a generalization and that you must perform dyno/track testing to fully realize the benefits. In the absence of a dyno, timed acceleration tests can be performed. These acceleration tests can also be performed using a precision accelerometer. Tuning the cam to the specific engine operations, i.e., acceleration from a stop, between two RPM ranges, etc. will maximize what is important to you. Peak horsepower is only impressive on a dyno. By its self, it will not improve track times. Note, when adjusting the cam sprocket, make sure the ignition timing is corrected between each cam adjustment. The exhaust cam drives the distributor and any change to the exhaust cam will change the ignition timing. After changing the cam timing and correcting the ignition timing, the fuel calibration must also be checked. Cam timing has a profound effect on the air/fuel mixture and if not optimized for each cam timing setting you will not know if the effect of the change in cam timing is positive or negative.

SgtRauksauff wrote:I'm running a 7-rib largeport, with first oversize (0.5mm, .020") 10.3:1CR pistons (storm GSi spec) TODA 264°int/256°exh (don't remember the lift, either 7.9 or 8.5, but it's NOT the 9.0), stock ECU, and 8mm TRD headgasket. If the head comes off, I'll put on a 6mm for that much more fun.

Running the TVIS gave much more noticeable differences with the stock cams (intake noises are beautiful), and I still have TVIS running with the TODA cams.

These engines aren't torquey at all, I got 108hp/98lb-ft on the stock cams.
after install of the TODA cams, (and FPR,and 4-1 header) i got 133.0/105-ish.

Erik_drift10 wrote:

I've been looking at different builds for a 7rib and I'm liking your build. How much was it with the toda cams, pistons and trd headgasket? Oh and what does FPR stand for?
I have a spare 7rib sitting around that I want to build. Nothing too crazy hence why I like your build. Thanks

oldeskewltoy wrote:

yoshimitsuspeed wrote:As suggested you might try playing with the cam timing. Those are tiny cams so with your small compression bump the low end should feel similar to stock.

this......... although the intake cam duration is a bit more then "tiny" at 230 degrees duration @ .050"(1.2mm) this cam is closer to a 272, then a 264.... so a bit more compression likely would've helped

keep the TVIS

http://club4ag.com/tech-data/camshaft-story-revised/ wrote:Using adjustable cam sprockets can optimize the performance of any cam. This allows for “degreeing” in the proper cam timing for the particular engine and intended use. This procedure is best carried out on a dynamometer so that quantifiable results can be measured. The advancing or retardation of cam timing will affect the peak power of the engine by moving the power band up or down the curve. There are many adjustable cam sprockets to choose from, each differing in design from all aluminum to using steel (less thermal expansion), but the most convenient to use are the ones with precision markings to allow for track turning and returning to the original settings. In general, advancing both camshafts increases bottom-end power and retarding both cams will increase top-end by giving higher peak RPM power. On twin-cam engines, changing the lobe center separation between exhaust and intake will change the valve overlap. This can be used to improve top-end or bottom-end, but this depends on the critical placement of the intake closing and exhaust opening events. The placement of both events has a significant effect on power, i.e., exhaust valve opening determines the beginning of the exhaust cycle and cylinder blow down, and the placement of the intake closing event fixes the balance between cylinder filling and intake reversion. It must be emphasized that this is only a generalization and that you must perform dyno/track testing to fully realize the benefits. In the absence of a dyno, timed acceleration tests can be performed. These acceleration tests can also be performed using a precision accelerometer. Tuning the cam to the specific engine operations, i.e., acceleration from a stop, between two RPM ranges, etc. will maximize what is important to you. Peak horsepower is only impressive on a dyno. By its self, it will not improve track times. Note, when adjusting the cam sprocket, make sure the ignition timing is corrected between each cam adjustment. The exhaust cam drives the distributor and any change to the exhaust cam will change the ignition timing. After changing the cam timing and correcting the ignition timing, the fuel calibration must also be checked. Cam timing has a profound effect on the air/fuel mixture and if not optimized for each cam timing setting you will not know if the effect of the change in cam timing is positive or negative.

here is your cam timing card........ http://www.catcams.com/products/camshaf ... TUP_id=828


To the OP.... do both cams have distributor drive gears machined into them?? You might swap the intake cam, and exhaust cam and see if you prefer them that way.... don't forget to make sure the valve clearances are checked

Erik_drift10 wrote:

SgtRauksauff wrote:I'm running a 7-rib largeport, with first oversize (0.5mm, .020") 10.3:1CR pistons (storm GSi spec) TODA 264°int/256°exh (don't remember the lift, either 7.9 or 8.5, but it's NOT the 9.0), stock ECU, and 8mm TRD headgasket. If the head comes off, I'll put on a 6mm for that much more fun.

Running the TVIS gave much more noticeable differences with the stock cams (intake noises are beautiful), and I still have TVIS running with the TODA cams.

These engines aren't torquey at all, I got 108hp/98lb-ft on the stock cams.
after install of the TODA cams, (and FPR,and 4-1 header) i got 133.0/105-ish.

I've been looking at different builds for a 7rib and I'm liking your build. How much was it with the toda cams, pistons and trd headgasket? Oh and what does FPR stand for?
I have a spare 7rib sitting around that I want to build. Nothing too crazy hence why I like your build. Thanks

yoshimitsuspeed wrote:

Erik_drift10 wrote:I've been looking at different builds for a 7rib and I'm liking your build. How much was it with the toda cams, pistons and trd headgasket? Oh and what does FPR stand for?
I have a spare 7rib sitting around that I want to build. Nothing too crazy hence why I like your build. Thanks

Toda cams are nice but very expensive. IMO your money can be better spent elsewhere.

I assume you are trying to stay on the stock ECU?
What octane do you plan on running? When you say you don't want to do anything crazy what do you mean? Are you just trying to stay on the stock ECU? Are you looking for a build that doesn't require much effort on your part to monitor and fine tune it or do you have other reasons?

Alex170984 wrote:
However I may see if anyone has any 256/264 HKS cams kicking around and sell mine.

Valve clearances are all okay. These were done when my head was rebuilt

Alex170984 wrote:Is there a way of jamming the TVIS butterflies open by not disassembling the whole rail?