7age? Questions

[sirdeuce]

If you are more concerned about the revvy nature of the 4age try building with an early 40mm crank and rods with a light, 7lb or so, flywheel. The 40mm internals can handle 8,000rpm and a goodly amount of power while still being quite reliable. Engine like this screams like a banshee! Last one I built like this had 11-1 comp with 272, 9mm TODA cams, oversize valves and port work. The light flywheel was TODA @ 7.5lb. It was a lot of fun!
I'd still suggest going with the 7AGE though. Tune it right and you can probably get 40+ hp increase over stock, with the stock electronics. Just using all stock components from the 7A and 4A should get you @120/120 tq/hp. A little port work, mild cams, good valve grind, intake and exhaust will take it quite a ways.

[Gabes86]

3TC? Why? I know it's a great little engine, but I'd rip out a 2/3T to put in a stock 4AGE any day. Sacrifice a few RPM and drop in a stock V6. Bunch of power and reliable.

Just until I get money for the perfect motor :/ but im still debating spending $250 just to have a engine instead of saving $250 to invest in my "dream engine" and it would help me figure out thinks wrong with the electronics chassis if it has a motor

[Gabes86]

checked out 1UZ corolla builds ?
Does it get any better for normally aspirated toyota power ?
Torque everywhere, so no need for hi RPMs
Is "hi-rev" more important than outright acceleration ? ....then cam-up a freshened balance 4AG and luv yourself

... I want to do world time attack in the future and the clubsport rules say if u swap a motor it has to be within the same manufacturer and cylinders of the original chassis :/

[Gabes86]

I decided on a 7A-GE after having everything rounded up for a 4A-GE build. I'd rather get that extra torque & power than be concerned about high RPMs. At least with my driving, I'm rarely in high RPMs.

Cams, rods, pistons, machine work, aftermarket engine management, tuning... those will be the highest costs with any "built up" engine. Plan it out, accumulate parts, and do it right. I'm still halfway through those expensive things I listed. One small goal at a time.

man im leaning back towards a 7age now, but hows it cheap dont you have to do distributor relocation and water relocation on the 7a too like a 20v

[Gabes86]

If you are more concerned about the revvy nature of the 4age try building with an early 40mm crank and rods with a light, 7lb or so, flywheel. The 40mm internals can handle 8,000rpm and a goodly amount of power while still being quite reliable. Engine like this screams like a banshee! Last one I built like this had 11-1 comp with 272, 9mm TODA cams, oversize valves and port work. The light flywheel was TODA @ 7.5lb. It was a lot of fun!
I'd still suggest going with the 7AGE though. Tune it right and you can probably get 40+ hp increase over stock, with the stock electronics. Just using all stock components from the 7A and 4A should get you @120/120 tq/hp. A little port work, mild cams, good valve grind, intake and exhaust will take it quite a ways.

But is it ever going to be possible to hit 8k :///// Ik it sounds really dumb that i keep obsessing about 8,000 rpms but its just part of my "dream car" oh yeah and what do you think a 7age without alot of work done's redline would be

[oldeskewltoy]

my "little" 4AGE is almost all stock.... it has a set of mild performance cams, a set of TRD valve springs, and a kevlar timing belt.... but the rest of the internals are all stock. The machine work was meticulous... add a ported head and it makes about 165 crank hp, or about 140-145 @ the wheels....




I'm using a 40mm rod journal crank, I can spin it to 8 grand.... and it is quite quick.




As to building a 7AGE, 8000 MIGHT hold up.... but if 8000 rpm on a budget is your goal, build a 4A instead of a 7A.






edit: as to a mild built 7AGE, a "256" type cam should allow you to twist it to about 7200, a "264" to about 7600.

[Gabes86]

my "little" 4AGE is almost all stock.... it has a set of mild performance cams, a set of TRD valve springs, and a kevlar timing belt.... but the rest of the internals are all stock. The machine work was meticulous... add a ported head and it makes about 165 crank hp, or about 140-145 @ the wheels....




I'm using a 40mm rod journal crank, I can spin it to 8 grand.... and it is quite quick.




As to building a 7AGE, 8000 MIGHT hold up.... but if 8000 rpm on a budget is your goal, build a 4A instead of a 7A.






edit: as to a mild built 7AGE, a "256" type cam should allow you to twist it to about 7200, a "264" to about 7600.

+

what head are yo running

[sirdeuce]

OST. Is that the head you are selling? The one with it's own delivery system?

7AGEs are being built to run at 8k, just have to put all the right parts in it and pay attention to the build. There is a set of Bellfab rods and Wiseco pistons in the for sale section. Guy also has ARP hardware listed as well. Check it out. Be a good start in your 7AG journey.

If you are using the 16v head the distributor stays in the same location as with a 4AG.

[oldeskewltoy]

what head are yo running

smallport, with a flipped smallport manifold

OST. Is that the head you are selling? The one with it's own delivery system?

No, the engine with it's own delivery system has yet to make it to a dyno... it is a ported largeport head with stock cams, stock springs, but it does have a a significant bump in compression over stock....

[Gabes86]

smallport, with a flipped smallport manifold

YOU MADE 145WHP WITH CAMS AND SPRINGS!?

[oldeskewltoy]

smallport, with a flipped smallport manifold

YOU MADE 145WHP WITH CAMS AND SPRINGS!?

...., and headwork, Toyota 4age 10-1 pistons(from Europe), and being totally honest aftermarket engine management...

my engine build - http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=26593