Blacktop rebuild. Track use

[hachirokkos]

I am currently using a 4AGE 20v blacktop with a q16 vp racing fuel 116 octane and 10% oxygen, with custom mapping on a motec m400 and i have an out 135 hp at the crank, 115 whp.

Most probably i rebuild my engine. And i wanted to know what do you think about to put in the engine. Also i will be using 98 octane fuel with vp additive to raise to 102 or 109 octane.

I am thinking of putting

1. Racing bearings mains and conrod
2. Camshafts about 278°
3. Valve springs and retainers ( JUN, TOMEI )
4. Reinforced Bolts - Main Stud & Ladder Set (tomei)
5. Pistons 81.5 mm 11.5 or 12.0 comp.ratio (cp)
6. Trd gasket 0.8mm

i would love to hear your ideas and experianses. Also i will be very pleased to sugest me brands and profiles for those items.

[oldeskewltoy]

I am currently using a 4AGE 20v blacktop with a q16 vp racing fuel 116 octane and 10% oxygen, with custom mapping on a motec m400 and i have an out 175 hp at the crank, 115 whp.

this seems a bit suspect... 175 crank hp should come out to about 150-155 wheel hp, and........... 115 wheel hp is about 135-140 crank hp. These approximate calculations are based on single axle drive, awd/4wd losses would be higher, but still unlikely to line up with your stated numbers.

Most probably i rebuild my engine. And i wanted to know what do you think about to put in the engine. Also i will be using 98 octane fuel with vp additive to raise to 102 or 109 octane.

I am thinking of putting

1. Racing bearings mains and conrod
2. Crankshafts about 278°
3. Valve springs and retainers ( JUN, TOMEI )
4. Reinforced Bolts - Main Stud & Ladder Set (tomei)
5. Pistons 81.5 mm 11.5 or 12.0 comp.ratio (cp)
6. Trd gasket 0.8mm

i would love to hear your ideas and experianses. Also i will be very pleased to sugest me brands and profiles for those items.

I'd add a well ported head. The exhaust side of the Blacktop head has some flow issues that can be overcome by proper port work.

I'd also add a dry sump set up. Yep it is costly (close to $2000 used, and a lot more new).... but, a dry sump oiling system is the best way to make your engine survive on the track.

Other things that might help would be an Accusump backup oiling system, as well as a custom oil pan with baffles, and then you can add Toda oil pump gears, and the cost of porting the oil pump housing. All of these things cost... and by the time you invest in them all, you will likely invest as much as a dry sump system... so go dry sump to begin with......

[hachirokkos]

135 i meaned. Thanks for correcting me

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[allencr]

1. Racing bearings mains and conrod
4. Reinforced Bolts - Main Stud & Ladder Set (tomei)

I really doubt that these items will help you one bit and their cost will cause you to skimp on others and they would only be giving you a false sense of security.
Very few failures are caused by parts compared to assembly technique and CLEANING.
One thing for sure, You WILL learn what not to do on your next project from this one, and throwing $$ at all the advertised bling just isn't effective right now.

[yoshimitsuspeed]

I am currently using a 4AGE 20v blacktop with a q16 vp racing fuel 116 octane and 10% oxygen, with custom mapping on a motec m400 and i have an out 135 hp at the crank, 115 whp.

Most probably i rebuild my engine. And i wanted to know what do you think about to put in the engine. Also i will be using 98 octane fuel with vp additive to raise to 102 or 109 octane.

I am thinking of putting

1. Racing bearings mains and conrod
2. Crankshafts about 278°
3. Valve springs and retainers ( JUN, TOMEI )
4. Reinforced Bolts - Main Stud & Ladder Set (tomei)
5. Pistons 81.5 mm 11.5 or 12.0 comp.ratio (cp)
6. Trd gasket 0.8mm

i would love to hear your ideas and experianses. Also i will be very pleased to sugest me brands and profiles for those items.

I feel like it's best to set your build plan around a power goal and budget then try to make a parts list that best compromises between that goal and your budget.

I disagree with Allencr about the bearings and crank ladders. The ACL race bearings are great and many of my customers run them even in more street builds. They are a little less forgiving so contaminants in the oil are a little more of a concern so if you don't plan on changing your oil for 10k miles they may not be the best choice.
I assume you mean camshafts hehe.
Remember that 278 doesn't mean much on it's own. There are a lot of properties that dictate the performance of a cam and advertised duration is only a small part of that. You might find a 278 that you hate, one that you love and a 268 that feels bigger than both of them. Again this is where your goals become very important. What do you want to set your redline at? Where do you want peak power? What do you want your power curve to look like?
For most builds I recommend you stay under 8500 RPM as that is getting real close to where a number of parts like your oil pump gear will start to wear very quickly and more potentially fail. If you jump to the next step like Dry sump, better rods, and a few other things then you can spin considerably higher but RPM still accelerates wear.
I have never seen springs or retainers made for the 4A by Jun or Tomei. Which springs you get will depend on which cams you get. As will your piston choice.
For most cams our valve springs will work great.
http://www.matrixgarage.com/products/ma ... lve-spring
My second choice would be Toda which I just noticed it doesn't look like I have them on my site for the 20v but we can get them.

We also have our own ladder caps that are cheaper and I believe at least as good. Our design radiuses all corners to eliminate stress concentration points. Plus it makes them look nicer hehe.
http://www.matrixgarage.com/products/ma ... nk-ladders
Again this kind of depends on how far you are taking the build. I like adding these to builds that probably don't need them but add a little safety margin. If you are going to be really reving high or making a ton of power you might want to take it to the next level and add Formula Atlantic style cross braces.

For pistons the design and compression ratio should be based around your cam. As with most manufacturers CPs numbers tend to be a little off on their shelf pistons. This is why I recommend making a custom or semi custom piston.
I have worked with Arias on their 16v shelf pistons and we have gotten them greatly improved over their old designs or any other shelf pistons on the market. I am now working on a 20v design to propose to them. Once it's available it should be quite affordable. They don't currently have any high comp 20v pistons.
I can design and have pistons made specifically for your build. Through Arias and CP these wouldn't cost much more than their shelf pistons as long as I maintain rights to the design. If you want a design that you own the rights to that will cost you more.
The headgasket is something that you will want to plan around your final deck height to achieve the best squish height possible. .8mm would likely be a good choice but if for example you had your block shaved .2mm and ran a piston with .2 higher compression height a .8mm headgasket would very likely cause the pistons to hit the head at high RPM.

[Yegor]

When you say track use, do you have a class you will be racing in or is it for track days and weekend driving?