Advise on a 20v bt build N/A

[ticotek]

Hey guys,

So I have been buying and storing parts for a long time to try to get a bit more power out of my BT but I have reached a point that I will need advice and thought I can get some from you guys.

About a year ago I bought a 20v bt for my AW11. Runs strong with the exception of some smoke that blows from the tailpipe when I step on it... oil...

So far I have:
Rebuild kit from Toyota (includes valve stem seals)
Supertech Valve Guides
Swift valve springs
TRD .8 head gasket
TODA intake Cam (can't remember but it should be around 288)
TRD Exhaust Cam (can't remember but it should be around 280+)
TODA cam gears

I need to buy: bearings, arp head studs

Running a stock BT M/T ECU with an eManage ultimate, AEM Wideband and EGT. Also have AEM pump and regulator.

The question... what am I missing? I have been thinking about high comp pistons but I am not sure if I should get them due to the poor octane ratings in my country (91 tops).

Any feedback and advice is welcomed. My idea was to build a car that I can drive on weekends and take to the track from time to time, say about 6 or 7 times a year.

Thanks,

[gaijin_rokurunner]

Take a look at my build viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1026...my advise dont waste time or money on changing the guides..u dont get any noticeable performance gain from them the stock guides are great anyhow...i would invest in valves though...get the link above i sell valves i dont advise supertech valves they are exact copies if stock just bigger. I would also invest in an aftermarket ecu if you acutally want some gains and performance..the stock ecu is good for stock setups with a few bolt ons but you seem to want to go beyond the capability of the ecu even with the emanage ur limited big time. Also an aftermarket ecu will allow u to tune ur engine appropirately even with the use of higher compression pistons. Harmonic balancer is available, high performance coatings, upgraded oil pumps, i even sell high performance valve train setups that are lighter then stock, maintain higher rpms better and support higher lift cams...keep in mind also any cam under 10mm lift will have minimal performance gains...over 10mm lift and elimination of vvt is where u get your power on the 20v

[ticotek]

Thanks man, will keep that in mind. The cams I got are about 9 lift... I figure that big power was above that but I do not want to loose too much of the drivability. I bought the guides because I am blowing old and the guys said that seals do alright for a bit but that guides tend to wear about and could most likely have been the cause.
With aftermarket ecu... man, I like brand stuff because I have little patience. If the Toyota ECU had a fix I would rather use that but since it does not, what would you advice as a reliable ECU setup?

Thanks,

[ticotek]

gaijin_rokurunner

I ran into problems with my built... turns out that the guy in the forum that sold me the cams did not tell me that these were not even close to being a matching set and never run them himself. Bought from Costa rica so I was screwed and I found out when my engine has apart at a shop so I had to just get whatever I found available... I ended up going with the tomei cams, not really great gains but something. I did take the vvt out with the toda cam gears. Now that it is all set the engine did gain some hp but nothing crazy... would you advice on lighter components still even when it is a mild build now

[burdickjp]

i dont advise supertech valves they are exact copies if stock just bigger

This is demonstrably not true, and most of why they aren't much good. Ferrea's valves are actually much closer to the stock back profile than Supertech's.

Most 20vs have worn guides, which require replacing, but doing so arbitrarily is wasting money.

VVT is a GOOD THING. Keep it if you can.
There are, that I can think of, only two good reasons to get rid of VVT:

1 - your camshaft profile would introduce valve clearance problems with VVT. This is extremely unlikely, as only the most ridiculous profiles will have clearance problems on stock pistons, and many of these problems can be alleviated using aftermarket pistons specific to your cam profile. Cams before pistons means you won't have any trouble here.

2 - Your camshafts don't time up to cam-card specs on the VVT gear. This one is actually a fallacy, as there's ALWAYS a way to make cams time up on the VVT gear.

Here's the good news: your Tomei cams ( assuming they're PonCams ) are VVT compatible, and generally install correctly with the stock cam gear. Put VVT back on and enjoy it!

What is your power goal? I've seen mostly stock AW11s absolutely DESTROY cars at the track. It doesn't take a lot of power to wake the AW11 chassis up.
The best upgrade I did to my AW111 was the installation of a C60 6-speed trans and an LSD. It really brings the 20v to life. It's not an easy install, as it involves cannibalizing 2 transmissions and setting differential bearing preload. You need an equipped shop and you need to know what you're doing, but it is AWESOME.

Good luck.

[ticotek]

Thanks gaijin_rokurunner...

I've got a fair setup with suspension and will be doing some weight reduction with on the car with carbon fiber (not into carbon for cosmetics). I would like to put down 170 to the floor. I have been checking into the C60 but just having a hard time getting one in Costa Rica... they only sale them with the motor for a full swap and there are few.

[burdickjp]

I've got a fair setup with suspension and will be doing some weight reduction with on the car with carbon fiber (not into carbon for cosmetics). I would like to put down 170 to the floor. I have been checking into the C60 but just having a hard time getting one in Costa Rica... they only sale them with the motor for a full swap and there are few.

This gentleman claims 170 HP at the ground: http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=7800
His camshaft setup may actually allow VVT retention, but unlikely that he wants it, as he's drag racing. He'd likely only see the operational RPM range of VVT once in the run.

Did you ever get the 2000+ Celica GT-S? Corolla or Matrix XRS? They come with C60s, and the kids who buy them tend to murder 2nd gear synchros. This is an easy fix, and even easier when you have transmissions apart to build a C60 for an AW111. Find one with trashed syncrhos. Buy it cheap. Tear it down. Rebuild it with new synchros as necessary. Install. Enjoy. Brand new transmissions from Toyota are also not all that expensive. Honestly.

What do you have for suspension?

[ticotek]

Never thought of a C60... I used to have a 03 corolla and I destroyed that one but came up with a solid build between that, a celica GT's trans and a C52 a while back. Will check it out.

I don't have much on suspension it is in good condition. Polyurethane bushings, Kayaba 4 way adjustable shocks, Eibach springs and Hawkley rear tie rods. I am looking for what I should go next...

[gaijin_rokurunner]

well well old Jeffy is back giving advise as if he ever built anything significant. Ticotek...most important advice i can give you is dont pay attention to Jeffy aka burdickjp....i will help you out via message so Jeffy cant see!

[burdickjp]

I've got a fair setup with suspension and will be doing some weight reduction with on the car with carbon fiber (not into carbon for cosmetics). I would like to put down 170 to the floor. I have been checking into the C60 but just having a hard time getting one in Costa Rica... they only sale them with the motor for a full swap and there are few.

Initial weight reduction is easy on an AW11. Pull up the carpet and get all the sound deadening out. There are actually lead bars under the spot-welded ribs under the seats. The bumpers are VERY heavy, and can be drilled or replaced.

supertech valves they are exact copies if stock just bigger.

[ticotek]

burdickjp ... thank you for the info... I'll be looking into going this route soon

[oldeskewltoy]

yup... I interveined...

IF you had VALID info for the original poster... indeed repost it... but I'll be more than happy to delete the crap...

[gaijin_rokurunner]

edited (by oldeskewltoy)for not useful content.......

[burdickjp]

My '87 T-top after removing interior sound deadening and carpet. Still had the lead bars in, because those are a LOT of spot welds. That I remember, I was sitting in it as well.

[MisterJerk]

LEad bars under the aw11 mr2 seats? I cant find shiz on google mentioning this... Link me or show pics of these elusive lead bars.

[yoshimitsuspeed]

There have been a number of discussions on this on the mr2OC. There are ridges under the seat that look like chassis reinforcement which they probably also are but underneath that ridge there is a big heavy bar. I don't believe it's lead. I have never pulled mine out but reading the threads and looking at the size to weight it seems more likely they are steel or something. I seem to remember a thread where someone hit it with a drill bit and if I remember right it crumbled much like cast iron would. It is theorized that these are in place for NVH.
I couldn't find any of the threads in a quick search but I'm sure a little time over there would find you a few threads on the subject. Most were in relation to weight reduction.

[ticotek]

Hey guys,

Thank you all for advice... I ran short on funds (sucks have 3 toys). This is where I am at now:

M.D.I. Multiple Discharged Ignition System, 20v BT (with bad ass plug wires)
Freshly rebuilt (all seals, rings and bearings)
Crower Rods
Swift jp valve springs
TRD .8 head gasket
Tomei PonCams (had more aggressive ones but they guy that sold them to me screwed me over)
TODA cam gears (not using VVT
Running a stock BT M/T ECU with an eManage ultimate, AEM Wideband, EGT, fuel pump and regulator.
HKS header
T3 stacks

I need to tune the car a bit but somehow I feel that emanage is not cutting it. The car runs great while lean and with timing well advanced but I feel it might be missing a bit. Not sure if I should go stand alone but if I do, I do not want to go COP, just not a fan for no reason.

Say I want 10 more hp... what should I do?

[burdickjp]

Say I want 10 more hp... what should I do?

Put VVT back on.

What AFRs are you running?

[ticotek]

Thought of putting VVT back on. Was not sure if I should.

Once I put the spark system it got better since I was running rich. About 13.5 but needs to be tuned (coming up this week)

[burdickjp]

13.5 is where it needs to be for wide open throttle AFRs.

VVT is a good thing. It increases torque in the mid range.