Help with EGR delete

[CloudStrife]

So I'm pretty close to cranking the engine, but just need to look over a few things.

First off, on the EGR delete, The two BSVs were damaged when the vacuum tubing was taken off. Apparently the plastic nipples, where the vacuum hoses went on were brittle as hell.

So I'm trying to brainstorm what I should do to seal the openings, as introducing air in the system can't be good.

Can I just unbolt them? And then find a matching bolt pitch and torque it down? Would I need some sort of washer-type gasket like the headers need?

I was also thinking maybe I could get them out, file down the tops to be perfectly cylindrical, then heatshrink and throw a vacuum cap on...

Ideas?

Thanks guys.

[davew7]

Neither sensor will leak coolant with a broken plastic nipple. The sensor body that screw into the engine is solid brass. DaveW7

[Deuce Cam]

Top one is for egr and bottom one is for charcoal canister/evap.

Just leave them as is if not using the egr or evap systems. (Nothing will go in the engine, and nothing will come out through the openings from the broken hose barbs, aka nipples...fwiw.)

[CloudStrife]

HOSE BARBS! haha, sorry I just love learning legacy and proper terminology

Thanks guys, just wanted to verify. I need to find that thread that discusses EGR removal but I can't for the life of me find it.

[CloudStrife]

Ok guys, so I cranked her and she caught! She died immediately after, but now I know I'm having a vaccum issue.

Ok so here is my setup:

It's a factory 86' GT-S.

It came with PS and I deleted it.

It also has A/C from the factory.

I deleted the EGR and put the factory IACV back in place.

I used the KSD engineering block-off plate on the IM, and the washer gasket/bolt to plug the manifold. (I also have TRD headers).



But now I have a bunch of empty ports.
I'm also missing the "T" that I need on the intake piping (I have a CAI).


So what am I missing to let her idle?










Thanks guys.

[Deuce Cam]

Are you using the charcoal canister? Where are the vacuum lines from it going?

From what i can see with the vacuum lines it looks like it should run, and at least idle warm. When the engine starts cold what is the idle rpm?

Also, fwiw on the throttle body barbs... Iirc the looped 2 are for egr, yellow cap is for evap, and black forward facing cap goes to electrical load idle up valve mounted on afm. (The other port on afm valve thingy connects to barb on intake tube.)

[CloudStrife]

Hey Deuce! Thanks for the quick reply.

No, I deleted the canister when I removed the EGR components. I'm damn sure I did it correctly, but I can't verify as the zero thread is unaccessible, and I can't even get google to find the page to cache. I tried the wayback machine, but I need a login. Here is the link, I had to scour my own thread just to find it :/. Also, just to be clear, the car will crank, catch, and run VERY briefly, and immediately die. So I don't even have a chance to really idle.

(The best thread for EGR removal, but of course lost to the internet)
"http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=49805"

But here are the main diagrams I followed when I removed EGR and Charcoal can.:




I think I followed it exactly, but I'm not sure.

Here are the pics I took at all sorts of fun angles under the bay, after I did the removal:

Before:



After:




Here are some better pictures I took tonight. I also found out how to hook up pretty much all my vacuum lines. There are only three that are still open to air. (2) ports for (what I believe) are coolant that run through the IACV, and a small nipple/barb that looks like it's for vacuum next to those two coolant ports, but I have no idea what it goes to, or whether I should just cap it.









I also want to ad that before I did all this (removing EGR, deleting cannister, putting back on the IACV), the previous owner deleted the IACV and put a block off plate on.

OLD PICTURE NOT CURRENT


I have the idle valve back on, however there is no coolant running through it... Is this bad? I have no idea how it's supposed to be hooked up, or even what line it comes off of..

[CloudStrife]

Ok, I found out that the last open to breathe vacuum nipple/barb is for California bullshit. So definitely capping that.

I believe the way those coolant hoses route is like this:


I can't really tell since I can't get under the car right now, but I believe PO looped the two hard lines when the IACV was deleted. So in theory I think I should be able to get some bulk coolant hose (not sure what diameter..) and some clips and route it proper.

Still don't think it's part of my dying issue though..

[davew7]

The water lines to the waxstat should not prevent the engine from idling. In fact it should cause it to idle at a HIGHER RPM. I'm thinking your issue an injector problem. It sound like you are only running on the cold start injector. Verify that you are getting a signal to the injectors. Use a noid light or a VOM, (not a digital VOM it will not react quick enough) Dave W

[CloudStrife]

That sounds pretty good to me Dave, thank you!

I've never tested injectors before so It will be a learning experience..

I think all my multimeters (VOMs) are digital, so I'll see if the auto store has a noid light set for rent..

Ian

[CloudStrife]

So I didn't test the injectors.

I decided to plug that nipple and replace two burned out fuses in the bay. Also the oil wasn't even reading on the dipstick so I filled it up. It idles high, just like you said Deuce! (around 2K)

So now I'm off to route the coolant proper.

[Deuce Cam]

Fwiw in cool/cold weather it should idle around 2-2.5k rpm on cold start, so thats good. (Fwiw, with iacv deleted idle is around 600 rpm on cold start... engine will stall unless throttle is manually raised until engine warms.)

Definitely get that iacv working. Its so nice not having to hold the throttle. Only good thing about no iacv is it forces one to learn left foot brakong

[CloudStrife]

Haha, yes! the IACV is hooked up and should be working.

I was having a weird issue at one point (after it settled down and idled at a little over 1k), where I started to play with the throttle and opened it up a bit. Randomly it shot up to 5k, and wouldn't come down.

So I turned off, and cranked. It wouldn't catch.

So I cranked again and it did, but surged at high idle again.

Disconnected the TPS sensor (unplug), and it seemed to settle it self back down again.

I opened it up again, and it seemed fine, although There are little drops of oil coming sporadically through the exhaust muffler..

I cleaned the contacts on the TPS sensor and plug, and it seems to be settling down in the 1k range at idle. (the plug is broken so it might have vibrated itself off). The TPS does seem to be working, as unplugging/plugging changes the idle.

But the oil dribbles shooting out.. Is that just immediately piston rings? Or valve stem seals? I honestly have no idea how long it could be going on for. First time I had a garage with her. I do have a leak at the disty..