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I've had a few of these, currently an '87 GTS. I don't have a manual, but I found it easy to do the clutch by dropping the trans out the bottom. I borrowed a nice tool from a friend that supports the engine from above using the fender rails. You could use an engine hoist or floorjack to support the engine, but they tend to be a nuisance. So, support the engine so it doesn't rest the pulley on the passenger side frame rail. Remove the crossmember and the various components attached to the trans, axles thermostat housing, etc.. put a floorjack under the trans for support and remove the driver side mount, unbolt the mount from the chassis and the trans. Then it's easy to remove and install the trans. Don't forget to disconnect the battery! I always add this for a clutch job, but, now is a good time to install a light flywheel if the budget will allow! It does make a difference! Have fun!
My current toys

You would be surprised how many parts are interchangeable between these two, like the axles.

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MR2 trans is one part that won't interchange, sorry, the shift lever is on the wrong side. Any FWD trans that bolts to an A series will work. As for the time involved? Take your time and be thorough and an afternoon should do it. As for the GZE, Look around for any writeup on that. I read one and I think there was an issue with the E- series trans. Some interference with the crossmember, not sure though. But good luck and have fun!

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Suspension upgrades? I have BC coilovers and Whiteline sway bars and complete bushings set. I like the way it handles this way! All those parts are a bit pricey, but well worth it! I'm in CA, so the engine mods are limited. A set of mild cams and raising the compression to a level that your area's fuel will allow, light flywheel, intake and exhaust upgrades or even an engine change..... Look for a trans from an AE 101 or 111 with an LSD. You could get the 6 speed trans from an AE111. Sooo many ways to go. One thing I plan on with mine is the 2 piece passenger axle from later model Corollas. Supposedly reduces the torque steer. Mine's like a go-cart!

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Is the intake piping actually cracked? If you need to replace it a simple and cheap method is with a couple of silicone couplings and aluminum piping.
My example;
I used a 2 3/4" mandrel bend 45 and cut to fit. Couplings are silicone 2 1/2" x 2 3/4" reducing coupling and a 2 3/4" coupling. I got the pieces on e-bay for around $25. You can make it work with the stock airbox or just about any filter that fits. Easy fix. I'd post a pic of it in the car, but CA smog rules.... Probably put it back on as soon as I get my reg. tags.

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Yep, been there done that. Even tried using FIPG, but I haven't found anything to really do a good job. I did get lucky enough to find a good tube at the wrecking yard.

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I'm on my 4th one now. Dunno how many more in the future, I think there are no more left here, I have them all! Oh wait, #3 I sold to mechanic kid and I sometimes see it on the road. Anyway, if you can get rid of all emisions, its pretty easy to replace the intake hose with silicone tube. I had driveability problems that was due to bad intake hose and bad AFM. Those AFMs by now are all flaky, hard to find a good one. In a pinch, you might be able to use silicone tape, but not sure if it'll conform enough to the ridges to make an airtight seal. Stuff is not cheap, you'll see it under brand of Rescue Tape, you can also find same stuff at some home improvement hardware stores for cheaper with no branding.
NA Mr2 tranny actually has same ratios as the FX16, the SC MR2 is a different beast, not realy good in the FX16 unless you're running boost, I'd say. But as was mentioned, the shifter shaft exits wrong side. You can however take all the rest of the internal bits and put it into a FX16 case, that's what I did when I rebuilt mine. Theres a good chance your synchros are worn out and bearings worn. The bearings often cause the common 5th gear pop-out.
I've dropped the transaxle so many times now, on a good day I can change it out in one night by myself, actually I did it twice in one night once because like a bubble head I installed the clutch friction plate backwards! A couple jacks, wood blocks, engine hoist, couple ratcheting tie down straps, and two guide pins fabricated out of bolts that fit the top two transaxle to bellhousing bolts with heads cut off and I've got a system down.
For aftermarket, its tough, gotta get creative. If you do the flywheel, you can use flywheel and clutch speced for the last gen Celica or MR-S. I'm running an Exedy Hyper Single clutch & flywheel. Kinda overkill.
KAAZ makes a LSD for our transaxle. Unless you know how it drives though, I don't recommend one for street. It's almost like opposite of torque steer, coming out of a corner and applying power, the steering will fight you and try to go straight. I use it for dirt and its awesome for that, prob number one improvement for dirt up there with tires. Also, if you've got crappy driveshafts, like pretty much any aftermarket OEM replacement shafts and run really hard with LSD, you'll break driveshafts. I broke more than a couple.
I finally went custom driveshafts from The Driveshaft Shop. They can pretty much build you any shaft as long as you can get them specs and sample parts.
I have a Whiteline adjustable anti-sway for rear, but they no longer make it.
I'm running TRD springs, also hard to find, with Koni one way adjustable insert dampers. OEM strut casing up front, modified OEM AE92 rear casing in rear. KMAC camber kit to fix rear camber.
MOMO tiny steering wheel with MOMO hub adapter.
AE92 short shift kit (JDM) that I modified further by cut & welding the shift shaft.
Sears Platinum AGM Battery relocated to rear in custom box cut into the spare tire well.
Speedline Corse wheels with rally tires.
This little FX16 gives a wake up call to all the STi's at our rallyCross!

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Mustang? Mustang? Uh, you mean Muskrat??

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kuddster wrote:Perhaps. every truck, car and SUV in my area has an obnoxious exhaust, most trucks have diesel fuel spraying black smoke everywhere, and all think they are too awesome. When in reality they are just some kid, who has parents with more money than brains. Yeah, those muskrats are what I'm talking about.

There are more mustangs and cobalts here than the rest of the country, I promise.

I know how you feel, man.

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what are you asking? I'm in Abingdon, va. Looking for a rust-free body.

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Would you be so kind as to send me some pics of the surface rust? ( A certain amount of paranoia here- a salty bagel in the passenger seat can cause the body to disintegrate.) Mine came out of N.C. 12 years ago, and now both rocker panels are rusted through. If you want to reach me directly it's johnmichalhomes@yahoo.com

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Thanks, kuddster. I've got knee replacement surgery coming up, and I'll probably be off the road for a month. I'll check back with you toward the first of the year, and see if you still have the car and still want to sell it.

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Thanks. I just realized I saw this on C'list in July. Recognized the tape on the intake pipe, quite similar to my own. Still looks good.

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kuddster wrote:Yeah. Just make me an offer. The C'list post is to stop idiots from low-balling the crap out of me.

giv ya 10 bux

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