You can get dry-break fittings for cooling systems, however they are hideously expensive. DTM teams used to use them in the 90's so they could swap engines in the 15 mins between sessions. No need to bleed oil or cooling systems as they were primed before-hand. In saying that, they do leak over time...

The ignition timing was a modified 4k distributor, the advance curve was copied off the standard electronic curve so as close to identical as was practical. I was planning on using that as a baseline and re-graphing from there but never got around to it as it went pretty well as it was. Australian p...

The rings and pistons reach the exact same place on every single revolution of the engine no matter what revs(discounting the tiny amount of side clearance they should have in the ring grooves), it's not like revving it harder changes the stroke length or the rod length does it. Don't get started ab...

Any reason why you chose S13 front, and how are you going to tune out the bump-steer?

I don't know about 90's style ( because I was born in 1990), but I've always thought this style looked best to me. Just do whatever you think looks good instead.

Considering in my first 86 I was running 11.7:1 comp for a while on standard cams and timing and had no issues, as long as the tune is right you'll be fine. That car was a bigport 16v running carbs and a distributor also, and it never pinged as long as I ran good fuel.

The 6 cylinder will also have a greater piston surface area. Are you comparing two engines in particular?

You won't have any issues with 12:1 compression on pump fuel, as long as the tune is quite good and you don't get too crazy with the ignition advance. I have these pistons but in 82mm bore, and using them with a set of TRD Carillo FA rods with the small end re-sized to 20mm, Clive Cams 248A (I think...

The diff will bolt straight in, the only thing you will need to change is the tailshaft and the handbrake cables. No need to change the gearbox or engine just for the diff.

A 4A-GTE would do high 12's easily enough. As long as the factory 4A-GZE bottom end has good compression still and the bearings are okay, a decent MLS head-gasket, some mild to medium cams and 15-18 pounds of boost with some decent tyres will have you in the low 13's to high 12's depending on the dr...

The Black Limited was a sales gimmick to get rid of the last 400 cars faster, there wasn't any Levins made as production models of them. Possibly an inside styling mule, but nothing released as far as I've seen.

Most bolt in cages are worse than not having one at all, and if you want to run a cage then don't bother with rear seats. To do it even remotely safely you would have to use fixed back seats and proper harnesses with proper padding on the cage, but even that is far from ideal without helmets. Carbon...

I have dealt with them in the past Jondee, multiple inaccuracies in shim thickness that were supplied to me and then a second set of shim-less buckets several of those were wrong also. I would suggest Supertech also, always spot on sizing and materials are fantastic.

I had 280 degree 8.3mm lift cams on a stock smallport 10.2:1 bottom end with a standard bigport head, standard map ecu and only other supporting mods were removing the butterflies and shafts from the TVIS plate, a pod filter in an airbox and good 4-1 headers and a hks hi-power. Mine made good power ...

You won't see much of a gain just using oversize valves as they really need the porting, cams and compression to go with them. There's definitely gains to be had, but they aren't cheap and there are many other areas you should be looking at first. If you're using cams that large I would suggest goin...

Please don't use JB weld, it expands at a different rate and will eventually seperate. Get the block decked until it cleans up and use a new gasket, and you will gain a little extra compression that way also which is a bonus. If you try dodgy fixes to get it running you'll get a dodgy engine, simple...

At what valve lift though? Anyone with a spare blacktop head and access to a flowbench will be able to tell you.

I wouldn't bother getting cheap pistons coated, coating does nothing to strengthen them and on a standard 4A-GE it would be unneccesary anyway. Use a reasonable brand like Teikin or new genuine ones and you won't have a problem. All good engine builds won't be cheap, but they're still a lot cheaper ...

The shock towers are too weak, and over time you will notice the factory spot welds tearing. Stitch weld the whole tower and brace the floor as it will still flex under load, as well as bracing the mounts on the diff and it can work. Still has no real advantage over seperate shock and spring for a w...

I wouldn't bother with the guy that did your previous machining, the top of your block has some seriously deep scoring and would need to be decked even to use a normal composite gasket. If he's missed that god knows how capable he is at anything else. Once a gasket has leaked I wouldn't re-use it as...

16x8 0 offset with a 205/50 won't fit without flaring the guards, 205/50 on a 15x8 rubs even with lightly flared guards with the sills 90mm off the road for example on my own car. Unless your running the suspension fairly high?

Can you PM me the pick up address, as I can get a quote from my freight accounts what it would cost to get picked up and posted that way? Obviously wouldn't organise it until I've paid in full.

I would suggest DHL? I use them all the time at work, got a seat from England delivered to Australia in 2 days and was less than $100 aud (roughly $80 USD at the moment)

If he's never heard of back cutting valves he can hardly be a guru, I'm also very interested in seeing photos of the finished work. Your parts shopping list also looks quite good, thought about brakes and suspension yet? I'm looking into picking up an imported AE92 GT-Apex here is AUS.

Price on a Runfree Levin front bar shipped to 3132 Australia?

I'm interested, rough shipping price to Victoria 3132 Australia?

There's no way that's been decked, it still has imprints from the old gasket on the sealing face.

I have a couple of my car you can use, might want to crop them little though. http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w494/Jimmee1990/Mobile%20Uploads/1412651_10153601429775370_1866267428_o.jpg http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w494/Jimmee1990/Mobile%20Uploads/892033_10153601423170370_321876071_o.jpg

Not a fan of the lights, but I really like that front splitter idea.

There are lots of race fabrication workshops that make these, if you were going to go to the effort of going to a watts link I would suggest going with something specifically designed for your car rather than adapting something else and avoiding all the potential poor geometry issues.