I'm waiting on a very large shipment from Megan racing right now... :) I received my shipment of Mishimoto parts last week. Radiator, fans, and oil cooler. I pulled my engine harness to fix all of the wires I had run outside of the looming so I could make it to the last drift event, and while I'm at...

Thanks Yoshi. I can make lines as well, but once I factored in the cost of lines if I make them and just the core it came out to the same price lol (I get mishimoto parts through my shop too). I was just curious if anybody else has used this oil cooler yet. If not, I guess I'll be ordering one short...

There aren't many companies that make a bolt in oil cooler kit for our cars. The only one I know of is Greddy, and that thing is spendy. I believe on the old forums we had a discussion thread on oil coolers and what people have used, so I wanted to recompile pictures and information about it. I boug...

oldskewltoy- The engine platform that I will be using will be solid, and I agree that is very important, you are underestimating how much rotational mass plays a roll in fuel economy. Flywheel, pulleys, driveshaft, and wheels, etc. On my 08 WRX I picked up a consistent 5mpg going from the stock whee...

yoshi- The cages from Rhodes Racing have a couple of different options, but the one I'm looking at is compliant with FD regulations. I just don't how much altering I will have to do if it was intended for use in a hatch instead of a coupe (I have a coupe).

I'm going to be putting a cage in my car soon, and I have been looking at the Rhodes Racing cages. Several of my friends run them (one of them runs it in his FD S13), and they've held up excellent. They're cheap, and work well. So, my only question is: they only list one for AE86, they don't have di...

I am doing a fuel economy build on my corolla... lightweight wheels, flywheel, pulleys, carbon fiber driveshaft, etc. It won't be done for about a year, but I'm shooting for 50+ mpg. Wheels make a huge difference in fuel economy.

I used -8, but I wish I would have used -10.

I worked all night long on thursday and friday (until about 3AM) to get the car ready for drifting on saturday. I ended up finding the issue, the wiring to the igniter was giving me problems. I didn't have time to fix them the right way, so I routed new wires, and ziptied them in place. https://scon...

igniter had good voltage. I ended up running new wires for the signals from the ECU to the igniter (or visa versa). that solved my issue. The weird thing is that I couldn't get the wires to ground out anywhere when testing them. After I ran the new wires, I had no more issues.

Checking the resistance of the wires between the igniter and the ECU, all of them are normal. 0.2-0.5 ohms. The main power wire that goes from the ignition switch to the igniter (black with an orange stripe) has 10.4 Mohms of resistance. That's NO BUENO. Somewhere in the short section of underdash h...

I decided to take the distributor completely out of hte question. I unplugged it (The 2 wires that go to the ecu). CEL is on, and it runs just fine, but still has the same issue. So... the issue is not with the distributor, but with the igniter side of the circuit. OH JOY. I've got 5 more new wires ...

bump. Fixed those wires, issue still persists. I now have a code 6. I've swapped: Coil Igniter Distributor ECU I've replaced/rewired: Distributor to ECU wiring Underdash harness water temp & RPM signal wire I have literally replaced/swapped everything associated with the code 6 (distributor RPM ...

So, after DD'ing the corolla for a month or two, the week of a drift event in May it started PUKING blue smoke out the tailpipe. I thought maybe PCV or piston rings, but upon tearing it apart I found oil in the #4 exhaust port. After looking at it more, I discovered that the valve seals were not ins...

The CEL only stays on for a few seconds. not enough time to jump the diagnostic plug and count the flashes. I found this in the engine harness... the 2 brown wires go to the AC connector (I don't have AC), and the other two go to the igniter. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y243/PygmyX/IMG_20130901...

So, after rebuilding my motor I'm having some very weird electrical issues. Only on LEFT HAND TURNS or LARGE BUMPS, my tach starts jumping around, the car bogs/misfires terribly, and the CEL will come on. I have zero emissions devices on this vehicle, nothing even plugged in, and the CEL has stayed ...

herp derp. I knew I read it somewhere before, thanks dood.

How much do these driveshafts weigh? I just searched through the thread and couldn't find an answer, I could have skipped over it accidentally. Just curious what the reduction in rotational mass will be. Stock is ~22lbs.

yoshi- no i haven't talked to them about it. I highly doubt it's still under any kind of warranty. This gauge has been kicking around in a garage for a verrryy long time. You're right, every manufacturer has a lemon every now and again. I'm just not a huge fan of autometer. I don't particularly like...

Autometer makes some great gauges, but they also make some cheap gauges. Here are my issues with my Autometer gauge: 1) it's cheap. Literally this one costs like $35 new. And, the needle fell off. I haven't dropped it. 2) It's mechanical. Slow to respond, which makes readings inaccurate. I don't lik...

I dunno about that Yoshi. The needle fell off. Does that sound like a reliable gauge? lol. I had to take it apart and re-install the needle.

So, I believe stock oil pressure ranges from 20-80psi. I'm sitting at like 14psi at 1k. Granted, my oil pressure gauge is a cheap mechanical autometer gauge, but it still worries me a little bit. Anybody running similar pressures and having issues (or no issues)?

You do realize what the purpose of a charcoal canister is right? It captures hydrocarbons as they are venting. A gas cap does not vent, the purge solenoid allows the pressure to alleviate into the charcoal canister, and then into the intake. The charcoal canister captures the hydrocarbons that would...

LOL.


But anyway. here: http://toyota-parts.toyotapart.com/ptr041790003

1) It gets rid of a bunch of vacuum lines. I did it on my car. It was worth it to me.

2) Fuel pressure regulator goes in between teh fuel pump and carburetor.

Also, did a leakdown test as well as another compression test. Leakdown was less than 20%, so I was like "huh. Compression should be waaaay higher than 60psi if there is that little of leaking." Sure enough... http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y243/PygmyX/AE86/IMG_20130506_164355_579_zps707...

Oh yeah, I've never pressure tested an oil cooler. But I imagine it wouldn't be difficult. Plug one end with a rubber plug that has a hole in the middle of it, and insert a pressure gauge into that hole and seal it up with something. Then use the same thing on the other end, and instead of a pressur...

GTS brake lines are needed.

AH so that's why I couldn't find anything. Thanks dood! Also, that first part number you provided (for the TRD .8mm) is actually a "superseded" number. It no longer pulls up anything in the Toyota system. If you search for that part number on teh interwebz, it will pull up the Initial D fa...

So, I have been scowering the internet for the part numbers for the TRD head gaskets. I found the first one... .8MM TRD Gasket- PTR04-17900-03 or... 00643-11115-000 But, I can't seem to find the part number for the elusive .5mm head gasket for the 16v. They are easily found for the 20v engines. Help...