Sealed Power brand, available from O'Reilley Auto Parts measure right down the middle of factory spec. I'd encourage you to platigage them before buttoning things up, but that will save you a few bucks and they are readily available.

You're not going to get any benefit from spinning to 9k without cams and valvetrain to support it. If you are serious about spinning the engine that high, you really should be making different decisions. At minimum, you will need to have the rotating parts balanced as a set. That will probably cost ...

The valves will tick if the clearance is too tight. A couple of my valves are right at minimum spec and they tick when the engine warms up.

AE86 pump should have plenty of capacity. Get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and set it within the AE101 spec and you're good to go.

The number of ribs on the block don't have a direct correlation to the rotating parts inside the block. There are two crankshafts. The early largeport engines came with 40mm crankshafts. All other 4AGE engines came with 42mm crankshafts. If you have silvertop rods, you need to make sure you have a 4...

Make sure you block off the opening that would have been covered by the factory radiator. Air chooses the path of least resistance and it will not go through the radiator effectively if it can go in the opening on the side.

And, if you have the smaller crank, Supertech makes 11:1 overbore pistons that take 18mm wrist pins. The cost will be a bit over your budget, since you'll need to have the rods machined slightly to fit the pistons. They include rings, as well.

How did you come up with those rates? I would highly advise not running such high spring rates. The car already doesn't turn with proper spring rates. Going that high will make things much worse.

An interesting data point that I just noticed: As of this writing, there are 66 posts in this thread (this being the 67th.) 8 of those posts were made by people that did not join in Jan 2013 Of the non-Jan 2013 people, seven of them accounted for the 8 posts That seems to indicate that the only ones...

I still lurk here, but I don't post that much. Most of the time, I start to reply, and then start to think about what will happen if I do. It's always one of two things: a) I post a sensible answer and it is ignored or b) Smartass comments start pouring in which makes me lose interest. The result is...

I say, drive the piss out of what you have now. You just might find that the car is a lot of fun the way it came from Toyota.

When I first installed my Tomei diff, I used the oil that was included with it. It chattered a lot at low speed and didn't engage very smoothly. Since then. I've switched to Motul P90 and all of those problems went away. Have you verified that you don't have any thrust angle in the rear? I always ha...

I track my car and I don't drift it (on purpose,) so maybe this will be useful to you. I have a TRD 2-way and a Tomei T-traxx. The Tomei is a vastly better diff, despite what you might read from supposed experts. IIRC, the Tomei comes set at 80% lock, and is the highest lock percentage available out...

Make me an offer. I'd like this out of the garage

F1 200mm chromemoly flywheel and Autozone lifetime replacement OEM style clutch for the AE86 for sale. They were installed new and have about 6,000 miles on them. I recently installed a new engine, flywheel and clutch with everything matched and balanced, so I no longer need this. It works perfectly...

I assumed it was BPT, but maybe it's NPT.

Autometer makes similarly styles oil senders for their gauges. They also have a BPT to NPT adapter so that you can use the factory bung. Might be easier going that route, since you can theoretically call them and get questions answered easily.

AW11 rack is about 1/2" shorter on the pinion side. There are quite a few FWD manual rack and pinion models that are easier to find and cheaper. I'd probably go that route rather than trying to find Corolla manual racks. There is nothing special about the Corolla or AW11 racks.

I doubt there is much difference between those two brands. They either fit or not. When you install and adjust the brace with the front wheels in the air and then try to install it when the front wheels are on the ground, you'll see why you need it.

Mine were all crusty and rotted out, so I didn't bother trying to find new ones. My car is mostly a track car, doesn't get driven on the street much and almost never in the rain. It also lives in a garage, so I am not that worried about the extra noise or rust like most people would be.

I don't run either of them. Upper is probably a good idea, since you can wear away the paint and get rust on the body that way.

Check the round connector on the back of the alternator. If it isn't snapped in all the way, you'll get random charging. You may need to unplug it and clean the contacts too. Mine was all gunked up with oil and when I cleaned it, I haven't had any other problems.

Make sure it really is a smallport. If it came from Toyota in an AW11, it isn't. The easy way to tell is if you have the TVIS plate between the intake mani and the head.

If you're running anything more than 1.5 deg of camber with power steering, you're likely to feel what I call "wandering" while driving straight at relatively high speed (ie: highway speeds.) I think it is caused by a combination of excessive camber and the design of the power steering sys...

Buying any used engine is a total crap shoot unless you know and trust the person that built it. This is no different when buying a JDM engine. The source of those "low mileage" engines is that the car registration regs in Japan call for a rebuild or replacement of the engine after so many...

I have been running Sealed Power bearings that are available at O'Reiley. They measure exactly in the middle of factory spec. A rebuilt largeport engine with smallport high compression pistons and Tomei poncams really livens the car up. That is exactly what I have in my car currently. Unfortunately,...

What Deuce said. Just make sure you scrape off all the old gasket material from both mounting surfaces. It's a bit of a pain to get everything cleaned up around the studs, but a small razor will do the job. I like to do a final cleaning with brake cleaner or some other degreaser to ensure the mounti...

Be sure the contacts in the round connector and on the alternator are clean when you plug the connector in. Many people replace "bad" alternators that really just have dirty contacts.

...what is the estimated cost of all of this and is oem a necessity or is there a brand that is okay to use for rebuilding. also I do not have emissions Cost depends on how much of your existing stuff can be resused. I would expect the valve parts are all resuable. I would expect the crankshaft and...

To add to what OST said, be sure to measure everything before you spend any money. The FSM has the procedure. For example, if your cylinder bores are out of spec, you'll need to overbore the block, which is around a $200 expense, plus you will need oversized pistons. That may make it a better choice...