RS*R EXMAG GT II

And that is pretty pricy for used. Just saying.

Coming from a purist... I would keep the motor stock(or stock rebuilt), EFI, the whole shebang with some bolt ons, i.e. header, exhaust, intake. Spend your money on bushings, suspension, diff. Then, the important part, have fun with it and learn how the chassis works and drives. I see a ton of overl...

0.5mm trd hg.. I only spray copper on them after repainting it for re-use(not recommended) **backyard mechancs only Also I torque mine to 65 ft/lbs in stages(hand tight, 30, 50, 65) with the correct tightening sequence. try to use new or "newer" headbolts. TRD metal head gaskets will leak ...

you should be able to see the diff with the fill plug out. if you see pinion gears, its an open diff.

Can you not adjust the idle the normal way? Screw on the top right of the throttle body.

I looked through your build sheet and it looks like you are running the OEM throttle body. Should be a Flat head screw on the side by the tps.

I have one from an ae92 in mine. works fine.

In the JDM days, i would find Flywheel bolts in there to replace an overtightened bolt that stripped the head.

I haven't melted a Dizzy cap since I went OEM Toyota Cap and rotor. Knocking on wood like a mofo right now.

shaved the body lines? a pic would help

New to the corolla life, used to be a datsun guy. anyways, just bought a 1986 corolla coupe with a 4AC, and the Panhard rod is actually bent, making my axle sit weird. looking to see if anyones got one laying around, aftermarket, stock doesnt really matter. as long as it will works, email: Gatlin22...

My rear shocktowers are getting really bad.
pics later.

Show me how you fixed yours.

w000t! Grats, dude. Take her out for a congratulatory BWAAAAAAH. lol

hasn't ran in 2 months?
Cold start isn't working?
Do you feel/hear the fuel moving through the fuel rail when the pump is running?
you getting spark?

Cruising speed?
around 3000 @ 55 mph(3000 rpm lean spot/stumble is probably to get better emissions results or fuel economy)
4500 at 80mph. Stock T50, stock 4.3 rear end.

No one has any experience with this huh? I was thinking I could get the JDM brackets and weld a support bar between them. Is this a good idea? :P That would work for the JDM bumper. or you could get a bash bar made with the mounting points for the oem bumper or jdm bumper. or a WTB ad for one and g...

I found a parts diagram and a listing.



http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/archive/index.php/t-333.html

16572-16010 bottom radiator hose 4A-GE $22.38 +GST

i can't tell if your trolling or not. Honestly i just dont think it will be a good idea. My buddy had one of those rwd celicas with a 4age in it and the weight of the vehicle made it a dog. Horrible gas mileage and not enuff power to really move it anywhere. not his car, but it was this model. http:...

I won't be using a 20v head though just the bottom end You will be fine. Just use the right pullies. i.e. rwd waterpump, alternator bracket with rwd pulleys. You running the st pistons too? might make it interference. bp head on bt block and pistons are definitely interference. Actually bent all my...

I am pretty sure it will. I did all that and more with a blacktop block. Small port oil pump, rwd alternator, waterpump, brackets, pulleys, etc. I even threw a big port head on it with the blacktop pistons. I replaced the rear main seal with a part I got from Cabe toyota, Im assuming it was the smal...

now one of these engine will be going into a fox mustang. this car has already had a ka24de running in it but i traded the ka for an sr but with the sr being a front sump with an aluminum pan. lol...wut. Am I reading this wrong? 1.6l in a mustang? aside from that.... all 4age are front sump as well.

even if the 80's styling doesn't come back, it would be nice if they would release some "simpler" sport models without 8 miles of wiring and computers I would believe the gt86/frs/brz was more ae86 if it was styled more like a 2door corolla, instead of a bigger celica. A simple 2 door rwd...

I used a cheap walmart 4 way to do this. find the one that fits the hole on the wheel and hammer it on, not all the way, just enuff to break it loose. Take off the 4 way before you get the lug all the way off or its gonna be more PITA. BTW, i didnt use a regular ball peen, BFH is required. either yo...

Just the pump or pickup?!? if the pick up fits, you have just made a huge discovery Discovery? It's old school technique from the 90's in Okinawa. IIRC, the pump and everything go right onto the bracket...Granted, I havent done it since '95, so my memory could be fuzzy. I remember getting the pump ...

seems kinda pricy for a knock off.. even if it is old

That's overkill unless you already have an axle out. You can achieve basically the same thing (i.e. overfilling) by jacking the axle up from one side instead of the center, and adding fluid through the fill hole. I did have the axles out, I replaced my r&p at the time. Either way, my axles come...

Welcome to the club!

Here is some reference info for you, specifically the manuals section.

http://www.aeu86.org/technical/ae86-manuals/

check out mr. rongfk's posts. He sometimes sells the adaptor harness, that he makes.

Help support our forum and our scene.

http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=5119

I used this when i did mine last.. Castrol Syntrax™ Limited Slip 75W-90 Full Synthetic Gear Oil I've also used mobil1 with good results. Mobil 1 Syn Gear Lube LS 75W-90 I have OEM LSD. If i was running an aftermarket, I would use whatever they recommend. I also filled mine the "Taka" way. ...

Nice.

Since you are on the internet and refuse to search anything or read any of the forum, maybe google is too difficult.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=toyota+ae86+sr5+vs+gts