that's cool, it's just that reverse light beepers that aren't in fork trucks or construction equipment remind me of old people who use them because they would otherwise kill people and cause accidents with their lack of situational awareness.

yeowtch! the first picture looks like someone dragged a grinding disk between a couple lobes. I want to say those look very similar to how my cams looked when I found out the hard way that the PO had used RTV blue to help seal the head gasket, blocking the entire oil passage to the head and cams. I ...

I think it really depends on how badly rusted... if it's just some light speckling, things are probably fine, probably could get away with cleaning with a wire brush and some emery cloth. but if it's solidly rusted over the whole thing, you might not be able to use them, considering they are what th...

because beeping reverse light bulbs are freakin' annoying.

I don't actually know the answer, but the OCD in me needed to say, "'definite', not 'defiant'".

this is my Monday troll post, I guess.

does the MR2 still use the MAF sensor with the trapdoor? I know on the Mazdas, that have a very similar setup, if you pop the top off of it, there's a gear/detent/spring setup. this gear can be clicked a couple of detents, and then your a/f will change, since this is how the ECU is getting airflow i...

Is that the difference between an MR2 and Corolla rack?

Planetary reduction is amazing. I've got a '96 F250 with the 7.3L diesel. it was slightly slow turning over, and found that the 2003 superduty starter bolted in, and was a planetary reduction starter. Rockauto had one brand new for 80 bucks. KILLER deal. after that starter was put in, the engine tur...

One of my frequent tracks is Blackhawk Farms Raceway, near South Beloit, IL. I started out using Hawk HP-PLUS pads front and back. They were ok for autocrossing, But on track after about 2-3 laps things would get warm and squishy. I think this had more to do with there being very small thermal mass,...

I've used the jdm zenki front bumper, with holes cut for brake ducting, without the lower lip. I've got up to nearly 120, almost redline in 5th on track, BIR to be specific, and have never noticed any lightness other than over some rough patches. Granted, at a track you're not at those speeds for ex...

^^^ what Totta said. driveshaft U-joints, also check to make sure your shocks/swaybar links are tight, and make sure your panhard rod and the rest of the suspension bolts/nuts are tight. if everything's new, sometimes they seem to loosen a bit once things have compressed and 'settled in'. If you kno...

my GTS already had it yanked when I bought it, my '86 SR5 coupe doesn't appear to have it (I don't know if SR5's even had the option), and I honestly don't know if my '84 SR5 hatch has it or not, I haven't even looked. I've got a cool wiring diagram book, I'll have to see if there are any useable sc...

so I was expecting a thread about it not turning over, but it DOES crank, just not fire. I didn't see yet where you verified if you were getting spark at a plug or not. You verified the fuel pump turns on; have you verified that the injectors are spraying fuel? both fuel and spark are needed to crea...

my gut says it's cam profile and timing. when I built my 16v, with stock cams, there was the typical dropoff after about 6700 rpm or so. when i put on the Toda cams with longer duration, the whole curve moved up, but the drop in torque was less pronounced. I agree that with a 12% increase in cylinde...

I do a lot of AutoX, and really wanted the extra torque at the bottom half of the curve for coming out of corners when you can't shift down, but aren't in the 'good' rev range yet. sounds like you're on-track to a fun machine!

here's a picture of the brand-new Aisin clutch slave before I put it into my car: http://www.sharkpork.com/galleria/var/resizes/vehick/ae86/P1000894.JPG?m=1454522415 looks like yours might not have the feed opposite of the mounting ears.. yep, I found another picture of mine mounted: http://www.shar...

I run a 7-rib largeport, and I kept T-VIS. Not an overly crazy build: 0.8mm head gasket, 10.3:1 oem first-oversize pistons, stock exhaust manifold, cleaned the ports, but no bowl work. T-VIS was very noticeable, in sound as well as butt-dyno (and real dyno, I think this was 108 at the wheels.). Then...

how much higher, in additional percentage? like 50% higher? pegging the needle?

does it go back to normal after it's fully warmed up after driving for awhile?

Almost sounds like the distributor could still be a tooth off? I'd check by making sure the engine is at TDC, then pull the cap, and make sure the rotor is pointing right at where the the plug wire from cylinder 1 would go, with the distributor housing about in the middle of it's travel range. When ...

It almost sounds liike the steering column shaft might have some stripped splines, or a loose bolt-clamp, so it's not actually turning things.. I'd start there and work towards the wheels. Could also be a tooth or two broken off of the steering rack gears, but that's really something that happens ev...

make sure that your steering rack bushings are actually holding it in place. with the wheels on the ground, have someone else turn it while you watch to make sure that it stays in one place and doesn't move. if it's still the original rubber bushings, they may have finally deteriorated, allowing the...

My thought, which I've never acted on yet, was to make a hole in the back of the head, just flush with the 'floor' of where the oil would sit, something like an AN-12 or -16 size, maybe even a -8/-10 if one for each bank of valves, and use some hoses or hardlines to drain right to the sump. This wou...

plus, if that's what you're into, you can get a lot of street cred by saying you have ARP fasteners for everything! lol.

So, I used an Illegal Garage lightweight flywheel/clutch setup when I put my motor together a long time ago. LOTS of track days / Time Attack / autoX, it was basically all I used the car for. I honestly cannot remember if I just re-used the original flywheel bolts, or if I got new ARP ones, but I've...

I got mine from a GM parts desk for cheap; first-oversize OEM coated 10.3:1 from the geo prism gsi.. I want to say like two hundred bucks, but I don't remember, that was a long time ago. I think I contacted a guy who was a midwest4AG member who happened to work at said shop; I'm sure other contacts ...

When I was hard-drivin' my GT-S, I was running non-extended LCA's, NRCA's, and 14x7 -9 with 225/50-14 hoosiers/hankooks, 13x8 +4 with 255/40-13 hoosiers. with some of the 225's, I ran 2mm spacers to clear the inside strut, and the outer shoulder of the tire would occasionally rub the firewall at ful...

did you get the car as it sits right now? If it were me, knowing that the engine had been opened up, and not knowing if it ever ran correctly for the previous owner, at a MINIMUM, I would yank the cam covers, make sure the cam timing is correct (timing belt), make sure the distributor timing is corr...

Another source is Rockford Driveline

http://rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm

no affiliation, but they're only a couple hours from me, so basically "local".

--sarge

On my first GT-S, for a Corbeau Forza II, I just got some 3/16" bar stock and made brackets right on the floor, and bolted the seat right to them. no sliders, no adjustment. Made it so I couldn't let "short people" drive my car, because they couldn't reach the pedals. Even with the lo...

something *IS* off.. you've got 195's on a 9-inch wheel!!

Increased caster (higher number) is towards the front.

We need more information on your offset, and other changes to your suspension/geometry to give an answer that means anything.