Does the engine just stops while warming up, and then difficult to start? You need to narrow down the problem to either fuel supply or injector signal. Try spraying Quick Start thru the FPR vacuum port to see if it will start right after warm up/stop. You can also try jumping the electrical fuel pum...

To clean the combustion chamber, just go to the local Ace hardware and buy a 1" Dia. wire bush, made from (((.009" wire))) set in a cap with a 1/4" shaft. The fine wire can clean the surface, without leaving marks in the aluminum when using a die grinder or drill motor. The only place...

J565c-4.17 Mounting height- The center of the device lens shall be mounted no less the 24 in. (610mm) above the road surface. But there has to be a lot of vehicles on the road with lites lower then 24". My guess, there is not to many states actually look at enforcement? When my vehicle was insp...

Search Cometic gaskets. They have several thinner or thicker MLS head gaskets for the 4AGE. If you want to use a Dremel tool to de-burr, use one of the small sanding drums. Or just use sand paper to knock off the burrs. Less chance of screwing up the head surface. You just need to do a really good j...

The grounding location on the intake manifold is common for all 4 of the injectors. If its a good ground for 2 injectors, it should be OK for the other 2 injectors. It is must likely a bad plug pin or wire. You are going to have to check each wire run to find the problem.
Davew7

The odds are low, but the problem could actually be the crimp in jondee86's photo or pin/plug connectors. I had increase resistance at a brass crimp where several sensor wires tee'd into a common ground wire. That is why I commented on solidering these 30 year wire joints. You have to check every wi...

Since you have the red-black wire striped back to the tee connection, Use a VOM [preferred] or continuity lite with a long test lead and verify that the red wire with the black trace, that runs to the ECU plug is good. There could be a break or enough resistance to screw up the engine ECU. You may w...

The electrical signal to the injector is so short that most VOMs will not register the signal. Go to you local auto parts and ask for a noid light. They are only a few bucks, and will verify the injector signal. davew7

Your plan sounds like a reasonable build. The only thing not mentioned was your ignition system. You will need a stand alone ignition system that will handle higher revs then a stock big port ECU. You will just need a few $$$ for your budget. davew7

The TPS is a good possibility, but it would not explain the difference you see between a hot and cold engine. The cold engine needs more fuel, i.e. the green sensor, tells the ECU that more fuel is needed but the fuel pressure is not there to deliver it. DaveW7

You need a richer mixture at throttle tip in. That 30+ year old fuel pump does not have enough pressure to enrich the mixture enough. Pull the fuel line at the filter and verify "deadhead" the line into a pressure gauge. You need a PSI reading in the mid 40's to get a regulated PSI in the ...

Try searching 4A-GE dimensions by Rick Hargraves
He has detailed prints for fabricating both RH and LH engine mounts. http://www.webgate.net/~rbp/4age.html
DaveW7

Rick
Thanx for the info, Dave

Rick Did you replace the ignition coil with a stock Toyota coil or did you find a replacement coil with about the same primary resistance. I've been thinking about replacing my 30+ yr old coil, with something that will fire a .040-.044" plug gap.
DaveW7

I actually have a Brute Power fuel pump, from Rock Auto. I'm very pleased with the pump, and it was on the lower price range in the pump selection group. I would get a new strainer for the pump, But unless you know there are issues with the fuel tank that sound like an extra $. You could always get ...

The best method for checking pressure is verifying the pressure with and without the vacuum line attached to the PR. 30 PSI fuel pressure is not going to cut it even with vacuum line attached! You really need higher pressure in the 34-35psi at a min with the vacuum attached. For accelerating you nee...

The input side of the fuel filter is 1/4" NPT, just thread in a pressure gauge there. Min should be around 40 PSI.
DaveW7

Two probable causes, You do not have enough fuel pressure or the TPS functioning. Put a pressure gauge in the fuel line from the pump. The easiest spot is in front of the in-line filter. At a min you need 38-40 PSI. If it below the 38PSI get a new pump and strainer. Check out Rock Auto for a good pr...

It's a 1987 block. DaveW

One suggestion on the setting up the TPS. The bottom screw attaching the TPS to the TB, can be a real PITA when it comes to access. $hit can the stock Toyota screws and go to your local hardware store, in my case Home Depot and get two Allen Socket screws. They should be 4mm - 0.7thds x 12mm lg. Lif...

The MR-2 block should swap right over into a GTS, assuming that you have the old RWD engine to change out the water pump, pulleys, manifolds, and flywheel, etc,etc. The only problem I've heard of is that some of the engine block bosses, i.e. engine mounts, where not tape out on the MR-2 blocks. In m...

Sorry but long term reliability and cost-efficient vehicle maintenance, is really low on the list for USA mfgr when designing vehicles for the domestic market. The Mfgr's are only looking in terms of warranty requirements. They have three main goals, cost, crash rating, and EPA fuel. Once the vehicl...

On one of my 4AGE motors I just used a standard pipe plug and gasket sealer. Should be able to get one at your local hardware store. If it is a real tight clearance requirement, you could get a pipe plug with a Allen Socket Head. Davew7

With all those issues, it sounds more and more like your timing belt may have jumped a tooth. How old is the belt? I would remove the front cam belt covers and verify that the cams are set correctly. You probably need to adjust belt tension or replace the belt.

As aukword1 mentioned, the outer pulley ring is bonded to the center section of the crank pulley. I used my old the crank damper for another 2 yrs, and the outer ring slowly moved during that time. But it did not separate. After a couple years I replaced the damper with an alloy pulley. Note if you ...

One of my 4age's had the crank damper timing mark off by more then 20*. After setting the crank at TDC, I filed a new notch in the outer ring so the timing could be re-set correctly. I then put a paint mark across the rubber ban so I could verify that the outer ring had not moved relative to the inn...

Adjusting the throttle damper will not improve the idle. It only effects the throttle rate of closing. There is a rubber plug on the top of the throttle body. [ Assuming the engine is in good tune ] Under the plug is the adjusting screw you are looking for to smooth out the idle. If the problem is a...

A 1.5* caster increase will make the steering heavy. I would take a look at the front lower strut bar. You could probably modify the rubber attaching bushing. Reduce the front bushing thickness then add spacers to the back side of the bushing. You could probably add enough spacers to the back side, ...

Couldn't you used a narrow tie-warp to hold the cable in place, or trim a regular width one down to fit the grove. Davew7

Do the string alignment also check the panhard rod is not bent or the bushings are off center. There is a chance that if you swap the lower control arms left to right that it may correct the problem. Then again you could end up with the rear axle dog tracking in the opposite direction. When you have...