I'm terrible about things like commenting on composite repairs, for the uninitiated getting the part back into shape is the goal. Don't mean to be an ass about it.

Another though is if any wires were cut and spliced. Whether crimped or soldered, bad connections can be a culprit.

Jondee is probably right on. Make sure all your ground/earth connections are clean and tight. Paint, corrosion and loose joints will hinder conductivity. My first place to look in such a situation is typically the ignition components. The igniter cuts out when it gets hot, especially on older cars, ...

In the fiberglass repairs, did you feather the base part, at least to a 10 to 1 scarf? Not many people know to do that, but it makes the repair so much stronger. Composite repairs can be a pain. Masking tape and rubber gloves will be great friends. Oil and grease your worst enemies. That flocking lo...

And you put on a dash mat that'll flock up the flocking. Other than that a big thumbs up!

I don't really need the set, but maybe you'd have something you need and would consider for trade?
Their alternator pulley is an overdrive size. Waterpump pulley is stock size. Crank pulley is stock size. I typically underdrive my accessories. They can sit on my shelf until I or someone needs them.

Maybe a FWD mani would do better, with the way turns back into the block would give the clearance to the steering box. At least it would have a better blended exhaust flow and remove a 180* bend. Fabbibg the downpipe would give a chance to tune the exhaust a bit as well. Just need a mani and downpip...

Looking at that engine compartment again. Is there a reason for using a turbo manifold?? Clearance issues? Wouldn't a stock Corolla mani do a better job?

https://31625.smushcdn.com/527924/wp-content/blogs.dir/1127/files/2015/03/29432274_2073049389386639_5417026359618699264_n-300x225.jpg?lossy=1&strip=1&webp=1 MRP has a number of kits now... one option gives you aluminum rods - a long time drag racing favorite. As to the engine mods... one th...

That .012" might work well enough. I found a lot, if not most, aftermarket pistons are machined for a .010" lower compression height. That's for a good clean up on the block.

Upgraded pump internals or dry sump oil system. Aftermarket rods. Forged pistons. Main studs. Girdle would be a bit of a help.

The six speed has the starter on the intake side, but all you nee is a backing plate from a late '90s 4 or 7A and the starter from same. It's actually better having the starter on the "cold" side of the engine. If you are looking for a trans from a wrecking yard Celicas came with an 'A' se...

Check the gear ratios, that would be the biggest difference. Other than that, depending on year, either a C50 or C52 would be used. My '87 AE82s had the C52 trans in them and they were both DOHC. If you are concerned with strength and longevity you could look at any corolla with a 4/7A engine but re...

I have a JDM MAP ECU and an e-manage, not sure I'll ever use it, but maybeeeee. Would be in my MR2 with a 7AGE, unless I go the stand-alone route of course. At least with the e-manage you can get a good handle on the fuel AND timing with the right harnesses.

For a "plug and play" there are a few out there. If you want a piggyback set-up I'd say the best would be a Greddy e-manage. The JDM units can be controlled with a piggyback but the USDM unit cannot. For a PnP look at AEM, I think I saw one available there.

For a "plug and play" there are a few out there. If you want a piggyback set-up I'd say the best would be a Greddy e-manage. The JDM units can be controlled with a piggyback but the USDM unit cannot. For a PnP look at AEM, I think I saw one available there.

I'd say a set of mild cams would do well enough. Didn't realize you had an 'E' series trans. That's great! Not sure a big bore TB would be necessary. The stock TB really does well enough. Didn't experience enough gains with mine. If you do want to ude a big bore TB look into adapting some billet TB ...

jinx wrote:for AWD, a boosted 7AG (stock head/stock cam) will make more torque than you'd know what to do with
A plain old journal bearing T28, T3 or small t3/t4 will do

+1 on that, use the N/A manifold for best results.
My main concern would be your tranny at that output level.

Rogue
All depends on what you want from your engine.

you leave a LOT on the table by running a stock head but that's the million dollar question. How much is a LOT ? Big valves, porting, cams, etc, only relevant at the crank/tires No dyno overlays plotting the torque, for a stock head vs modified ? Must exist, with countless 7AG builds. That's one of...

I built a 7age with just the stock 4age head. Put the same effort into the head I used as I would any other build, good valve grind and some minor blending in the ports, stock valves. That was back when they were just starting to talk about 7AGE builds. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. T...

Ugh, facebook. I'm a bit of a rare bird these days, I don't do facebook, twatter or snapchit. Not my scene. I keep to small circles. Now, if I could access that piece of facebook without signing my life over to facebook I might consider checking it out. As for a 2 litre 7AGE I know of a few places t...

Let's hear about those 7AGEs. I've built a few of these for others, still haven't put mine together, moved several times in the past years. Not hearing much about the 7AGE any more, wondering if people are still doing this hybrid build.

Just a thought here. If this is a USDM car the crank angle goes through the igniter before it gets to the ECU and just the TDC signal goes directly to the ECU. You would get spark as the MSD is triggered by the distributor but doesn't shoot a signal to the ECU. I believe if you got an igniter back i...

Nicely done! I always thought the manufacturers should have used threaded fitting instead of pressed-in tubes. Not that I've had issues with Toyotas in the area, but I've had problems with many other manufacturers, especially German autos. @$!?)*$# Volkswagen!

Getting a bit off topic so I added an edit to this post... https://www.club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12011 Cheers... jondee86 Nice one! Clarity incarnate. Sorry for the late response but I havent logged in for awhile. Anyway, I read what Jonde's post, however; I still stand by my origi...

Couldn't get the pics up. If it is a 3A a 4A should bolt up, but that trans is supposed to be really weak, like in a few hard limiter bounce shifts and things go awry. Same with the AWD trans.

By the year it should be 3E, If it is an A series a 4a would bolt up. If it is a 3A it would be easy to get the AWD gear into the Tercel.

3E engine. That trans is pretty weak too.

I've seen some earlier FWD Tercels with "A" series engines, the later had "E" series engines. So I'm sure it's possible to have an "A" series. If it is an "A" engine get an engine and trans from an FWD Corolla, of course with electronics, and it should be a bo...