Ugh, facebook. I'm a bit of a rare bird these days, I don't do facebook, twatter or snapchit. Not my scene. I keep to small circles. Now, if I could access that piece of facebook without signing my life over to facebook I might consider checking it out. As for a 2 litre 7AGE I know of a few places t...

Let's hear about those 7AGEs. I've built a few of these for others, still haven't put mine together, moved several times in the past years. Not hearing much about the 7AGE any more, wondering if people are still doing this hybrid build.

Just a thought here. If this is a USDM car the crank angle goes through the igniter before it gets to the ECU and just the TDC signal goes directly to the ECU. You would get spark as the MSD is triggered by the distributor but doesn't shoot a signal to the ECU. I believe if you got an igniter back i...

Nicely done! I always thought the manufacturers should have used threaded fitting instead of pressed-in tubes. Not that I've had issues with Toyotas in the area, but I've had problems with many other manufacturers, especially German autos. @$!?)*$# Volkswagen!

Getting a bit off topic so I added an edit to this post... https://www.club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12011 Cheers... jondee86 Nice one! Clarity incarnate. Sorry for the late response but I havent logged in for awhile. Anyway, I read what Jonde's post, however; I still stand by my origi...

Couldn't get the pics up. If it is a 3A a 4A should bolt up, but that trans is supposed to be really weak, like in a few hard limiter bounce shifts and things go awry. Same with the AWD trans.

By the year it should be 3E, If it is an A series a 4a would bolt up. If it is a 3A it would be easy to get the AWD gear into the Tercel.

3E engine. That trans is pretty weak too.

I've seen some earlier FWD Tercels with "A" series engines, the later had "E" series engines. So I'm sure it's possible to have an "A" series. If it is an "A" engine get an engine and trans from an FWD Corolla, of course with electronics, and it should be a bo...

jondee86 wrote:Getting a bit off topic so I added an edit to this post...
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12011

Cheers... jondee86

Nice one! Clarity incarnate.

Sorry to burst your bubble, but that's not the way it works on a 4AGE. I actually thought it was that way too, until someone (jondee) posted otherwise. If the crankcase were a positive vent, manifold vacuum, without an operational valve the engine would not idle. Every time the throttle would close ...

After reading that bit I realize how long I've been away from the whole thing, I can't even get the terms right, I've been calling it 'HP' when I meant 'EP'. I have recommended the use of phosphates in machinery, engines and gearboxes. It's been 20 years since I went that route.

Phosphates and sulfur have been added to oil for quite some time for their HP qualities, their abilities to adhere to metal surfaces and reduce friction. I have read some studies on the subject, NASA did a decent test on the subject. I used TSP in my VW engines. Only thing that made it seem like it ...

Great read! Thanks for this, it's an important issue any gearhead should pay attention to. Can this be made a sticky so it doesn't get lost in the pile of posts? If you want another interesting subject try lubrication chemistry or HP additives. See how hot it gets when you talk about adding TSP to y...

Too bad there isn't a flow metering device to measure the flow rate instead of, or in addition to, pressure. In the past I've built my 1/4 mile engines with looser tolerances and high volume pumps (VW days). Increased clearances and notched rod thrust surfaces to allow oil to flow. No real way to me...

factory oil pump & 8000rpm redline can't be compared to an elaborate dry sump & 9500+? rpm Totally different operating parameters. Wouldn't be surprised if the restrictor was 'overwelmed' in the latter Apples and oranges really. For a factory oil pump, high RPM is probably the worst case sc...

I've had similar issues with a 20R in the past, oil pooling in the valve cover that is, and it produced a nasty oil cloud when it happened. For that problem I found refreshing the rocker assembly helped a lot, also increased the oil pressure since it wasn't bleeding off into the cam valley. I'll be ...

Why did that post twice???

Inadequate crankcase breathing hindered oil drainback. This makes sense. Not really the case here. the late 4AGE, small port head, has a secondary oil return to make up for the inadequate oil return of the earlier models. It is a good size return, 5/8" I.D. planted in the head where OST had sh...

Inadequate crankcase breathing hindered oil drainback. This makes sense. Not really the case here. the late 4AGE, small port head, has a secondary oil return to make up for the inadequate oil return of the earlier models. It is a good size return, 5/8" I.D. planted in the head where OST had sh...

3/8" NPT on that? -8 flare?

Aw man, I hate these problems. To be honest I've been doing the same with my 1990 Toyota pickup. Different issues though, the thing runs but has CELs. Pain it the tailpipe! I feel for ya. Could it be a fuel issue? Good pressure until the engine runs? Like a restriction, fuel filter, pinched line, we...

From memory on my car before I changed the engine to 4AGZE, the resister pack bracket was bolted underneath the ignition coil bracket so they were earthed at the same time. I have seen that, I have also seen the resistors grounded with their own bolt. Basically any place you can access a bolt to gr...

The resistor pack does not need to be grounded. It is just 12V in and 12V out and there is no reason for grounding. OK, so I was shooting from the lip there. When the circuit is not active it is 12V in and 12V out, but when it is active it is more like 12V in and 3V out due to voltage drop across t...

The resistor pack does not need to be grounded. It is just 12V in and 12V out and there is no reason for grounding. https://i.imgur.com/xJWoyLP.jpg That makes absolutely no sense. The ECU is grounded to the chassis and the injectors, in order to complete the circuit, must be grounded to the chassis...

What about the ground wire that goes from the front of the engine to the chassis? So many people forget that one. Black wire with a yellow tracer with a black plug. Typically bolted to the front engine lifting hook.

Another thought, I had a similar issue with a VW squareback I had a long time ago, long time ago, the transistors burned out. That took a long time to figure out. Open the ECU and inspect the components, look for anything obvious like blown capacitors or melted transistors or resistors. Look for cor...

Our engines injectors are a 'batch fire' type of injection, it's why there are 2 injectors per ECU out. Typically cylinder 1 and 3 fire together then 2 and 4, since those are the cylinders that fire close together. So, when the injectors ground leads go to the resistor, which is 2 resistors in paral...

Ooohh, cutting the earth wires and just jumping the ECU to the block is BAD. The ECU is grounded to the block, but along the way from the block/manifold there are tap points for the various sensors for their grounds. You'll need to splice your harness back together. As for the painting of the earth ...

Pins and needles, pins and needles.