Hey guys, just wanted to check in again. I also have some questions about velocity stacks.
EngineSince I was busy working on the brake system, I haven't had time to start the engine and test how it's running in the winter. At the very beginning, the car is pretty hard to start and takes 10-20 seconds before starting. I've up the post start enrichment table, and I'm starting to think I also need to up the start fuel prime time too. Turns out the colder temp fuel - air temp correction map is a bit off, I was running a bit lean. Adjusted it a bit but probably needs more tests and tweaks to tune it properly.
Here's a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq24GNBUjx4Brake and Clutch progressI've finished up overhauling the braking system and the clutch components as well.
Got the pedal brackets and pedal all painted up to help prevent future rust:
As I was installing it and adjusting the stop screws and clutch-start interlock switch, the wires twisted off. Got some help from someone at work who knew how to solder to show me how. First time soldering! It's actually not too bad.
Got various missing gaskets and clips that were missing from the Toyota Dealership, the parts customer service at the one closest to me are super nice.
Also ordered an AISIN clutch slave from ebay and braided stainless steel clutch line from T3.
Comparing old and new parts before installing. The OEM clutch hose has a very thick rubber and looks to be in great shape still unlike the brake hoses. My old clutch slave has seen better days. It no longer pops back out and is probably leaking or going to leak soon.
The Goodridge brand braided stainless steel brake lines are pretty good. The fittings look to be of stainless steel and overall good quality. The only complaint I have is that the rear brake lines are bit too long. I compared all the hoses and lines and it turns out OEM rear brake hoses should be the same length as the clutch hose. The lines aren't kinked or rolled so hopefully they stand the test of time.
Since I'm overhauling the brake system, I thought I might as well clean up some of the brackets down there as well. Before and after:
Finally on the car
Although in decent shape, the aluminum clutch master was a bit corroded so I sanded off the white nasties, and polished it a little. Here it is on the car with the proper gasket. Gasket material seems to be treated paper. Perhaps paper coated with something?
On goes the old brake booster and brake master cylinder.
Questions / Prepping for a professional tuneI think it's time to get a proper set of velocity stacks. 2 out of the 4 stacks are damaged and I really should replace them. Jondee86 or anyone else with experience on the ST/BT velocity stacks. Do you know what the inner diameter of the velocity stacks for OEM ITBs are?
I've measured mine and they are 48mm in diameter. I've heard the black top velocity stacks might work? The length of mine are 50mm.
Since my ITBS are tapered as well with considerably more length than the OEM ITBs, I'm guessing common advice for matching the best length of velocity stacks for BT/ST ITBs is not going to help as much. My intake manifold is probably going to add a bit more intake runner length than stock. Perhaps sticking with the HKS velocity size would be best for now?
I also probably need to take the car to Carbs Unlimited at some point and have them take a look at the ITBs. I wasn't able to find any vacuum and I did the cover the intake bellmouths trick that jondee86 mentioned by using my hands. I can feel the vacuum build up and the engine was not happy. So I think we can conclude that the throttle bodies need to be rebuilt for lower than 1500 rpm idling.