CloudStrife's AE88

CloudStrife
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Mon Nov 06, 2017 12:56 pm

Ok, I think we are on the same page.

As far as the larger sleeve going through the top rear axle bracket hole, It is not fitting. Now, looking at the axle bracket top rear hole, it actually has a conical shape. The sleeve slides through about 1/2mm, then it contacts a smaller diameter, half way through the axle bracket. This is where I am getting the most resistance.

My thought was to file it down until the sleeve can slide through. But why would they want you to do that? Why not just make the diameter of the sleeve proper? That part just doesn't make sense to me..
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jondee86
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby jondee86 » Mon Nov 06, 2017 10:42 pm

It's a folded sheet steel bracket and the holes will have been punched out. That's why
you get a bit of a taper on th holes and the brackets can be less than perfect. Just file
the holes out a fraction to get rid of the lip and slide that tube in there :-D

Cheers... jondee86
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby aukword1 » Tue Nov 07, 2017 7:44 am

jondee86 wrote:It's a folded sheet steel bracket and the holes will have been punched out. That's why
you get a bit of a taper on th holes and the brackets can be less than perfect. Just file
the holes out a fraction to get rid of the lip and slide that tube in there :-D

Cheers... jondee86


That's basically what I had to do to get mine to fit. I used a drill and elongated some of the holes a fraction and then they fit perfectly.

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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Tue Nov 07, 2017 10:07 am

Thanks for the tips guys.

Unfortunately the car fell off the jackstands this morning. Thank god I wasn't working underneath it. I need to get this guy on solid ground!
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truenorican
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby truenorican » Tue Nov 07, 2017 12:01 pm

CloudStrife wrote:Thanks for the tips guys.

Unfortunately the car fell off the jackstands this morning. Thank god I wasn't working underneath it. I need to get this guy on solid ground!


Man, that's scary. Yea, work on the driveway man. The weight of the car just sinks into the dirt and is obviously not stable. On top of the fire ants all over our lawns in Florida, I can't stand them.

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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Tue Nov 07, 2017 12:33 pm

Yeah, I still can't believe it. I lived in an area where the ground wasn't so soft before and I just totally forgot . And you're right, it was horrible getting bitten lol.

When you come up here for the PS stuff?
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby truenorican » Tue Nov 07, 2017 4:15 pm

Lol, its the worse.

I'll text you to see what date works for us. I have to drive up to Riverview for work so I may just keep heading north to pick up the PS stuff.

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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Wed Nov 08, 2017 12:10 pm

So I got to raise up the car on the fronts today, after putting the rears on. Mind you this is with control arms missing and alignment far far far from ok, but we are getting near baseline. Fronts are almost maxed out with 2-3 threads left. Rears are at 3/4, maybe a little more, of upward adjustment, with around 1/4 left.

Now:
Image

Prior:
Image

@purchase:
Image


Here is a video with the aftermath of the dumb towing company dropping my car.
https://youtu.be/bWVCTJrohi4

The nic on the rotor doesn't seem like it will affect pad bite, or at least to the point I'd be worried, unless anyone else can chime in..
The big concern I have is the lower control arm. I had no idea how bad it was, but a large amount of matrial was grinded off, including the grease "zerk" fitting. How bad is this? The hub itself seems fine. That damn lower arm was new factory and it would suck ass to replace...

Thoughts?
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Thu Nov 09, 2017 3:36 pm

Alright I hate these rear links.

Which side are these supposed to orient? I figured the blue bushing side with the collar through it would go on the traction bracket. However I have been hammering and trying to force that other side into the chassis bracket. I took it out to study and it looks like fucking hell. I am marring the **** out of the bracket.

Image

Image
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CloudStrife
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Thu Nov 09, 2017 4:23 pm

Nevermind. I figured it out and it's retarted how these like to go in. Basically you need a lift. I don't have one. **** Cusco.

They "lock" in by the two burred edged collars (one on each side). You basically push the length of the rod downward, which creates a circular locking motion. Unfortunately, I run out of downward travel and cannot push any more. No matter how high I jack her up.

Yay.
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Fri Nov 10, 2017 11:33 am

Success!
Image

I used brute force and angry motivation and got the bolts in. The **** is probably marred and scarred to high hell but I'm over it. I'd really recommend using a 4 or 2 post lift as it would not have taken so much effort. Also remember when removing the upper arm to remove the flanged nut first. It's harder to get to, but once you give torque relief, the bolt can actually move. From the factory and after 30 years that force makes it very close. Also, If I did this again I would do 2 things:

Get the T3 brackets as JDM suppliers take too long and nobody has them.
Get the Formula Link, instead of Formula Link Jr. from Cusco. I originally didn't want to get the rear links with two sides of adjustment, because I wanted a stable and secure mount to the chassis side (like the Link Jr.'s), but I'm sure it doesn't really matter. I would not get T3's because metal "joints" are for the track in my eyes, not DD duty.



Now onto removing the rear brakes.

I ended up disregarding the method of using a rounded file or drill to remove material from the axle hole. It's just too much of a pain and leverage is lacking. I can dremel the inside, but not the outside as there is no clearance between caliper assembly and axle bracket. So since I have my T3 rear wilwood kit, I'm just gonna take the old calipers off and after I get the traction brackets done, I'll fit the brakes.

Of course T3 doesn't give even the slightest instructions, which is a bitch because the fronts were hard enough to find info on, and probably 2% of people are even running rear willwoods. Oh well.

IT CONTINUES.
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Fri Nov 10, 2017 5:56 pm

So taking off those little dust shields is a little more involved than I thought... Lol

Anyway, here is what you do if they get stuck (which is pretty common).

https://youtu.be/mNeqzK0HIqc

Now I need to figure out if the rear willwoods use the rear dust shield or not. Especially because the hard-line bracket is welded to it.. :roll:

Good news is axles look pretty good. Surprised the edges weren't marred at all on the diff side.
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Sat Nov 11, 2017 12:01 pm

So I'm probably just gonna answer my own question but here goes.

The orientation and everything looks pretty good. I feel good about what was supplied with the kit and how I've used it. I ended up have to modify both the mounting points though. PMM posted a video and they just basically forced the misaligned lower mounting bolt until it reached the other side: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJIWwXwLdqQ. I went a different route and modified to give the bolt a better angle.

Here is how everything looks:
https://youtu.be/8AuyQE2dKTU

Only 2 concerns I have.

1.) Are the locking washers needed? On almost all my image searches, no traction bracket utilizes them. I'd like to remove them unless it's essential, since I barely have enough thread on the nut side to torque down. Granted, once everything is torqued down, I will get more threads, but to me it doesn't look comfortable enough.

2.) What are the small bolts for?
Image
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Sat Dec 02, 2017 7:46 pm

Everything looks good rear suspension wise. Torqued it in order according to spec. My dog wouldn't move lol.

Image
Image
Image
Image

Right now I'm trying to figure out the Rear Big Break Kit from T3. No instructions of course. No internets clues. So that's fuckin great of course.

Image
Image
But first I'd like to take care of the the rear axles (got new gasket, bearings, retainer, and metal gasket), has anyone replaced the bearings/gasket? The FSM says to basically saw the axle inner retainer plate off....
:| :| :| :| :? :shock:

Image
Image

Lots of SSTs here.. wtf is an oil bath.. don't have a grinder..


I would say forget it, but Those bearings are like 30 years old and rusty.
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Thu Dec 07, 2017 12:58 pm

I decided against rebuilding the axle components. I'll just hope the shop won't have a problem with it when I take my diff/tranny in for service.

Image

Almost done. Just having an issue where the E-brake cable won't reach the passenger side caliper bracket... If I could just figure that out I'd be damn close to finishing the suspension and brakes.
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby aukword1 » Thu Dec 07, 2017 1:06 pm

looking great man! I'm jealous of those rear brakes lol I can't commit to that brake kit yet until I figure out what rear axle I'm going to go with. Also, You can adjust the e-brake cable from the e-brake itself. It might give you enough slack to link it. You can always ask Gabe or one of the guys at T3 to see what they do. They usually respond pretty quickly.

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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby Jayrdee » Thu Dec 07, 2017 1:10 pm

s i c k
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Thu Dec 07, 2017 4:38 pm

Meh, I called them. It seems like the cable isn't long enough (but the sheath is). I fully slacked the E-brake, but it was too taught after the "T", not before it (was actually pretty slack on the e-brake handle side).

So they asked me to take them off and measure them. Unfortunately the brackets that hold the E-brake cable on the chassis side have stripped holes now :(. So since I suck at tap and die, I'm gonna have to have a shop re-tap them.

Honestly man, It's not worth it. The casts from Wilwood were messed up (Gabe even told me this) and you have to meticulously file it down. Plus either the bolts or the threads on the caliper kept stripping. I think the threads were messed up on the bolts from the factory.

It's really been an ordeal man.
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby aukword1 » Fri Dec 08, 2017 9:07 am

that sucks man, hope you get everything sorted out.

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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby truenorican » Fri Dec 08, 2017 2:36 pm

Thanks again for the power steering parts! It was nice meeting you yesterday and your 86 with those big baller parts. Lol

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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:44 pm

Yeah you too man! I'll hit you up if I ever get rid of the bracket.

Unfortunately, I just got burned out with the willwood kit. Especially after the bolt stripped the aluminum on the caliper bracket. I'm just gonna put the stock rear brakes on. Not sure what I'll do about the front...
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Mon Dec 11, 2017 3:34 am

Anyone happen to know the thread pitch/length of the two flange bolts which secure the prop valve to the chassis? I think I lost mine in the move, and it's not available through dealer so I have no reference point..
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Tue Dec 12, 2017 3:46 pm

You guys suck :P

It's M6, with a thread pitch of 1.00. I could only get a 40mm length bolt at the hardware store, I believe 35mm would be factory.

Image

Finally got the prop valve back on. It was a bitch. The PO stripped one of the nuts, so I had to reshape the nut. Also, the lines had improper kinks when he put them on, so I had to "re-kink" it. I just hate dealing with hardlines in general. As a note, if you do this make absolutely sure the nuts are screwing in properly, and not at an angle. If you don't, you will not only strip away any hope, but you could leak.

So happy I got her started and now idling. I can't drive her, so sometimes I just get in and start lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvsDxLNmhI

So now the IACV is completely hooked up, seems like it engages properly. I cold start at around 2k, then gradually drops to ~1.2k. I don't usually get blips. The TPS plug is cracked and won't stay on. At vibration, it'll probably come off so I either need to get new plug, or heatshrink it on temp.

I do have a little oil leak. I believe it's at the disty. Apparently, the right bolt was missing on the disty.. I put one on since that was the side that leaked. I have a new disty ready to go in, but need to make absolutely sure I know what I'm doing.

Also returning all the brake upgrade kits. I was very unhappy with them. Also a little peeved at T3. They apparently had casting issues from the factory. I also had multiple issues otherwise. I just don't think for 1,000$$ it shouldn't be plug and play..

As far as stock goes, I'll be getting these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PHASE-2-FRONT- ... 1438.l2649

Rebuilding calipers, deciding on pads. I have Techna fit lines I ordered ages ago. Was going to get the Endless lines but it's a waste not to use the Technafits.

Anyone have tabs on BOTH a rear and front rebuild kit? OEM is about 100.00$ I think.
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:23 pm

Installed the AW11 disty I had for months finally; looks 10x better. Hopefully it fixes the oil leak I had as well, the factory o-ring on the old disty still looked decent..

Image

Only downside is it didn't come with the bracket which holds the spark plug wires.. So I'll be looking to buy that :)

Follow Jondee's instructions and you can't go wrong.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12343#p82153

It idles so good, I don't even know if it's necessary to set timing, but I probably will anyway.
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby notnilc20 » Tue Dec 19, 2017 8:33 pm

Looking good Cloud. I should have held onto my ol aw11 distributor but I sold it for a measly $80...got the heatshield too....nice.

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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby aukword1 » Wed Dec 20, 2017 7:39 am

Just a side note, you can buy just the aw11 distributor cap from autozone for like $10 and use it on your stock 4age distributor.

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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby Jayrdee » Thu Dec 28, 2017 2:47 pm

CloudStrife, idk if you follow Japanese Nostalgic Car at all but I saw this article today and I thought of you, since you're a Cusco slut Lol.

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/motorsport-a-brief-history-of-cusco-racing/
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CloudStrife
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Thu Dec 28, 2017 4:20 pm

Cool article man, thanks!

So, as I told Aukword before, I ditched the willwoods. Both front and rear. They'll be up for sale if anyone is interested. I was just overall disappointed in the quality control for the price.

Anyway, rebuilding the fronts and rears with OEM parts, and Phase 2 rotors. Still not sure what I'll use for pads; not really looking to fork out for Project Mu, so looking for good street pads. Maybe Hawk HPs. I've heard OEM is good too.

The rear axles are in the shop, I'm having those bearings replaced and pressed on.

Caliper brackets will be going to powder coat. Calipers will be as well, so I'll be waiting on that.

After installing that stuff, I need to set an eyeball alignment, and she'll be towed to the body shop. Then I need to figure out what she's gonna get painted.
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby Jayrdee » Thu Dec 28, 2017 6:58 pm

CloudStrife wrote:Cool article man, thanks!
Then I need to figure out what she's gonna get painted.


I vote no paint ;) Treat the rust spots on the chassis (if any) and then save the rest for go-fast parts :D :D

There's just something about a worn AE86 with its battlescars thats so sexy.
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Re: CloudStrife's AE88

Postby CloudStrife » Thu Dec 28, 2017 9:28 pm

He says with a mint one-color Levin :)
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