badboy88000's AE86 1UZ Hatch Build

badboy88000
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Posts: 33
Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:08 pm

badboy88000's AE86 1UZ Hatch Build

Postby badboy88000 » Fri Oct 23, 2015 3:55 am

So I've been a member for quite some time on C4AG (since 2002?), some of you may remember me, but I dropped from the scene in 2007 because I had to shift around my priorities (i.e. school). Fast forward 2015, I've spent the past 2 years building another corolla because there's just something about a corolla that always brings me back. I've had my fair shares of other cars and phases but the AE86 will always be the platform that started it all for me.

I've put countless hours of time, blood and sweat at the expense of others, but I am glad on how it came to be.

In 2013, I picked up this corolla from a local owner:
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I was told the frame was generally straight. Not knowing much into the car, I bought the car without knowing all the history behind it. It appealed to me because of the price point and the fact that it already had a ford 8.8 rear end installed already.

Later down the line I found out the car's frame was slightly bent on the front causing set backs for me, but I found my way around the issues.

I started to tear down the car to reenforce the chassis as I knew that I would not be going the 4AGE route.
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One of the previous owners of the car cut this enormous hole in the firewall, because they thought that they would have an easier time fitting a 20V into the car with the hole there (which did work but it was a stupid idea). I had to work with what I got.
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I decided on a power plant and chose the 1UZ engine as my engine of choice. I had my choice of 4AGZE, 20V Black top 4AG, 20V Blacktop 7AG, F22/20C, SR20, BEAMS, or the 1UZ. After much debate, I chose the 1UZ. I know the initial cost is expensive and is not that much cheaper than other solutions, but the final cost in the long run, the 1UZ will be the cheapest.

I picked up a 1UZ from the Junkyard:
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And I tore it down to clean it. It had pretty low milage, but the previous owner didn't seem keep the change the oil too often. The journals looked good though so it probably would be ok.
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I tried to use a pressurized system to hold the valves up properly when i was changing the valve stem seals out but it wasn't enough to hold it up. I ended up trying to do the rope trick to change out the valve stem seals and was successful until the last cylinder where i ended up snapping the rope when i attempted to pull it from the cylinder. I had no choice but to pull the heads. In the end, I sent the heads to get cleaned up, hot tanked, decked, and valve seals changed out by a machine shop. After about a week, I got the heads back, ready to be dropped.

While waiting for the engine heads, I put together the transmission with the 1uzfeswapkit.com's transmission adapter kit.
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I think there's a new version out there now, but the old version (mine) required this to be cut:
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The bottom of the 1UZ bell housing also needed to be notched:
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Last edited by badboy88000 on Fri Oct 23, 2015 5:02 am, edited 3 times in total.

badboy88000
Club4AG Regular
Posts: 33
Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:08 pm

Re: badboy88000's AE86 1UZ Hatch Build

Postby badboy88000 » Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:16 am

I was not happy (obviously) with the firewall, but with the help of buddy (Thanks Joe!) we went to the Junkyard and found an SR5 with a clean fire wall. We chopped it up and pulled out a section larger than the current hole:
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Before I welded the firewall shut, I went ahead the sanded down the seams and spot welded along the seams. I may had over done it a little.
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I trimmed the firewall a bit and cut the hole on the car a bit smaller than the cut out firewall I had. I fired up my trusty welder and welded the firewall shut:
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I also pulled the windshield that night, but i ended up cracking it :cry:
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Fun parts are starting to trickle in - AJPS steering spacers and a wilwood proportioning valve.
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Picked up this pretty expensive flaring tool, but it's specific for 37° angle single flares. FYI, these are specific for AN/JIC fittings. Brake lines use 45° double flares.
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Bought some 2"x8"x1.5" aluminum blocks for spacing the subframe out. I want to space the subframe as small as possible without much interference from the transmission tunnel and other things. 1.5" is pretty good, but most people use 2", which I feel is a bit too much. I was able to make it work with massaging the tranny tunnel a bit.
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Had to cut the radiator support out, which is documented on a number of 1UZ builds:
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More fun parts - Installing the ACT clutch and HD flywheel:
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Engine Test fit - 1 of many:
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badboy88000
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Posts: 33
Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:08 pm

Re: badboy88000's AE86 1UZ Hatch Build

Postby badboy88000 » Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:45 am

I don't believe in removing something on the car that was meant to be there. Why remove the brake booster when there are actual cheaper and easier solutions? A brake booster delete plate is about 85-90 from T3. My solution? 35 dollars, and STILL maintain great breaking ease. I used a 95 toyota tercel brake booster with a 7/8" master cylinder from a 99 toyota camry. I did a mock up of the proportioning valve and made some lines.
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Needed to make a line for the fuel feel to the 1UZ. The engine's fuel feed port is on the drivers side while the return line comes out the passenger side. Using my bender and flaring kit, i made this hardline that goes underneath the water pipes:
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The ford 8.8 was NOT shortened properly by the person who got it modified, so i removed it, and sent it off to the rear end shop to get shortened to AE86 spec. When giving measurements, make sure you let the shop know the distance from rotor to rotor surfaces.
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More parts - Stainless steel pipes for exhaust, SakuraFab tranny mount, ford LSD rebuild carbon plates
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Started trying to fit a radiator and deciding on how to mount it:
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Then tried to put the hood on the gauge the fitment of the radiator, which is when I noticed the frame was not straight.
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The hood, headlights would not match right, no matter how hard I tried to get it aligned. So off to the junkyard - found an SR5 with no front collision damage:
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Got back home and removed the radiator support on the corolla:
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Trimmed and installed the fresh radiator support. Headlights lined up Perfect, so I tack welded on the support to finalize the fitment.
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Looking good!
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Last edited by badboy88000 on Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:47 am, edited 1 time in total.

badboy88000
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Posts: 33
Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:08 pm

Re: badboy88000's AE86 1UZ Hatch Build

Postby badboy88000 » Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:58 am

An old trick Luis Maya showed me a long long time ago when I was doing my manual steering swap. You can buy T3's ready to drop in shaft, find a supra's intermediate shaft, or you can do this - total cost, $10 for scrap 3/8" metal bar stock.
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Installing more of the steering components. Megan outers. We will see how these hold up. I used the top ones because those are specific for manual rack with manual knuckles.
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Just comparing the length of the MR2 rack and the ae86 manual rack. AE on top AW on bottom.
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Will post more later!

Toy86
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Location: Tucson, AZ

Re: badboy88000's AE86 1UZ Hatch Build

Postby Toy86 » Wed Mar 02, 2016 6:40 pm

Bump! Awesome build bro, looking forward to up-dates!

badboy88000
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Re: badboy88000's AE86 1UZ Hatch Build

Postby badboy88000 » Wed Apr 06, 2016 4:26 pm

Haha sorry for the lack of updates, I've been real lazy about posting up more. The car was completed in June 2015, so ill have more updates on the way.

SR86RD
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Re: badboy88000's AE86 1UZ Hatch Build

Postby SR86RD » Sun May 08, 2016 6:46 pm

please do, awesome stuff

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Jinsoku
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Re: badboy88000's AE86 1UZ Hatch Build

Postby Jinsoku » Sat Jul 09, 2016 11:00 pm

Good to see you back on here, nice hatch!!!!
Since 2001

Deuce Cam
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Re: badboy88000's AE86 1UZ Hatch Build

Postby Deuce Cam » Tue Jul 12, 2016 11:30 am

Regarding the steering racks...

looks like the ae86 housing is shorter, but is it's rack/gear longer, or the same length as aw11?