My '93 Toyota Corolla Levin AE101 "Di Analys"

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matthewramdeen1
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My '93 Toyota Corolla Levin AE101 "Di Analys"

Postby matthewramdeen1 » Thu Aug 09, 2018 8:22 pm

** 56K BEWARE **
Hey Peeps

I'm new on this forum, I figured if I'm going to start a thread on my newly acquired 1993 Toyota Corolla Levin AE101. (At least, that's the code for 'em here in JDM markets, I see other people using that same code for the 4dr sedan version with the 4AFE). Then Club4AG seemed like the best community to settle down!

But I digress. I'm simply just looking for a place to put down my thoughts, log my progress, tell tales of my hits and misses and get some feedback from veterans in the 4AGE community. So mods, If I'm posting this thread in the wrong sub-forum or if this isn't the sort of thing you do at Club4AG, then my all means - just set me straight :geek:

So to Start off - here are the base specs of my car that I found on the net.... good to just keep it for reference https://www.carfolio.com/specifications/models/car/?car=263010.

It's a 1993 model, bought it with around 180,000+ KM on the clock. Bone stock 4-AGE 20V Silvertop with 5 spd C52 gearbox (Non-LSD). Got the dual exhaust which gives a nice sporty note. I'm dubbing this machine "Di Analys" - and if you're scratching you're head don't worry :D That's just our Jamaican dialect for saying "The Analyst". I figured instead of giving it the usual pet name, I'd let this car signify a milestone in my life - Got a new job as a Business Analyst (BA) pretty much the same time I bought this car. I'm stepping up from a 1996 Suzuki Swift 3cyl - so you can imagine the performance difference is night and day for me.

But enough of the wordy stuff. I like to tell my stories with pics. So my first tale will be about my firs major repair to the car.... And that was Changing the clutch.

Bout 2 weeks ago I got a little excited and tried to launch to make the gap in Traffic. Boyyyyyy was that ever the last I'd be doing that. HORRID GRIND trying to get into 2nd - clutch pedal sank to the floor - didn't want to come back up. I thought $#!@ - this is the day I screw up my pride and joy. :o Lo and Behold, I was able to get it moving again but the clutch went from streetable grab all the way down to slipping in 3rd gear. That was Monday - By the end of the week it was slipping so bad that I couldn't even get it past 3K RPM in 1st gear! Talk about a nightmare.

Now up to this point, I didn't have a dedicated mechanic. The location of my new job meant I couldn't just go round the block to my usual mech - So I needed to try something new! Tried searching the interwebs for mobile mechanics since I'd need the someone that can come to my location when I'm in a pinch. Finally boiled down to mechanics that advertised their work like this Image Or Like This....
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:D I think I know which of the two put some effort into their work. So I messaged Travis The Mobile Mechanic on facebook https://www.facebook.com/travisthemobilemechanic/ and we got to talking about what kind of jobs he's done and to take a first look at Di Analys initially scheduling him for August 11

Fast forward to slipping clutch week and BOOYYYYY did I have a trial by fire ready for Travis the Mobile Mechanic :lol: He actually came from the shop >>> to my home >>>> to help get the car back to the shop at Rodgers Tyre & Service Center in Portmore, right around here http://bit.do/euBmo

And so our journey begins

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Some way, some how. We managed to drive it on the slipping clutch about 21KM to the shop. Here's your first look at the car about to go on the lift

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Doubt the car even cooled off properly before Travis started on the case - unbolting bits and pieces from the top before we jacked it up

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And it's up! I swear it was like 30 mins between the time I pulled up, to the time the car got lifted - almost like they change clutches for a living :P

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Impact wrench makes quick work of the plastic undertrays and many other bolts for the various supports under the car. When all was said and done, we found some wet spots under the car - explains why I gotta top up with 10W40 a couple times and top up Power Steering Fluid. But right now that is the least of my concerns

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And there it is, Gearbox is off. Old Pressure plate exposed and ready to go

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There's the culprit. Whatever I did with that launch COMPLETELY DISINTEGRATED one side of the clutch disc. I was holding on by the rivets for God's sake. The bellhousing was completely filthy - shredded organic material and oil everywhere.

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First thing's first, we realized the rear crankcase seal was leaking into the bellhousing. By some stroke of luck, the nearby auto parts shop had one. So we replaced it straight away. The old one was as stiff as a piece of styrofoam!

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Blasted the bellhousing innards with a pressure washer to get all the gunk out. And then set it on its side to drain oil the old gear oil.

So here's the part where I show you all the new shiny bits that I'm gonna replace.
  1. Most important is the clutch kit. Its an Ebay Stage 3 Clutch Kit https://ebay.to/2KH2zCv Comes complete with Stage 3 Clutch, Pressure Plate, 200MM Lightweight Chromoly 10lb Flywheel and Throw Out Bearing.
    Image
  2. Next up is the ARP Flywheel Bolts - also bought it off Ebay https://ebay.to/2MyCkjp Comes with 8 bolts and the assembly lube. They can take 58 ftlbs compared to stock 54 ftlbs AND they're re-usable.
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  3. Also needed about 4 quarts of 75W90 Gear Oil. Most of the Auto Parts stores had 80W90 and the only 75W90 was Amsoil - really Expensive $#!@ Dangit! had to bite the bullet and buy 4 quarts of the Amsoil Synthetic. looks like this http://bit.do/eubEj
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I bought a small tube of thread locker but mech opted for the Assembly Lube instead. ARP bolts lubed up. Bolted in the new 4.7KG (10lb) flywheel down to 58 ftlbs. For reference, here's a neat site comparing the 20V flywheel weights http://www.my-acoustic.com/Car/weight_issues/compare_20v_flywheel_weight/compare_20v_flywheels_weight.htm. Then bolted in the Stage 3, 6-puck clutch and blue pressure plate. Sorry I didn't take more pics at this point, as you can see - it was starting to get late.

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A fair bit of elbow grease and some helping hands Travis got the gearbox back in place and wasted no time putting together all the pieces. It was like 4:30PM when we reached the shop - And by the time it was all done it was about 9:30PM. Dunno how many mechs in the states stay in the shop till those times, but I'm glad I had Travis in my corner. Damn good labour price too if I may say so myself.

I'm writing this about 1 week later from the install date and all I can say is, don't let people on the internet scare you from lightweight flywheels and Stage 3 clutch setups. The thing is entirely streetable, no chattering, you can still slip the clutch, and the RPM movement up or down isn't as dramatic as some make it sound. I'm about 100KM into my 1000KM break-in period and the level of rebound coming from the pressure plate is the only thing to get used to.

Phew! :D That took longer than I thought.
Last edited by matthewramdeen1 on Wed Aug 15, 2018 5:59 pm, edited 7 times in total.
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Re: My '93 Toyota Corolla Levin AE101 "Di Analys"

Postby matthewramdeen1 » Thu Aug 09, 2018 9:03 pm

But wait..... There's more

So that Clutch job was on a Saturday. On Sunday I realize my cooling system couldn't keep in water - had a severe leak at the Radiator inlet for the top tank. I patched a previous crack at with some epoxy in the same area and figured I could jerry-rig something. Fast-forward to half a tube of epoxy and 1" OD PVC coupling later and I was in a bit of a pickle. Nothing I tried could keep water in the system. :shock: After all that Clutch work - I had to park my car on a beautiful Sunday.

Monday was a public Holiday - by now I'm sweating bullets. How the hell am I going to fix this thing before work tomorrow??!! Basically all business places were closed. My bro pulled up in his 3SGTE 4WD Corona and said I should try calling some places in the yellow pages that fix radiators.
  1. First Call - No Answer
  2. Second Call - No Answer
  3. Third Call - Radiator Lee answered the phone!! Told him my life story with the radiator woes and he said bring it quick before 1PM - he's not staying at the shop on a Public Holiday

To this day I hadn't troubled anything in the engine bay - And there I was unbolting sockets and hose clamps to get the Radiator out. My bro showed me the ropes since he's done this sorta thing on his Corona a couple of times. By 10AM radiator was out and made a straight shot for Radiator Lee's place.

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If you're in Jamaica - this guy can get you out of some major scrapes at odd hours with your Radiator problems

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As you can see, the entire top plastic tank was dry rotted beyond repair. Amazing how I got by this long. A bit too much shaking of the engine during the clutch job was enough to break the tank inlet right off. Radiator Lee wasted no time prying off the tabs with his trusty flathead screwdriver.

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While the top was off, he also rodded out the tubes - it's amazing how much gunk and slime he got out of the thing. Then he found the right top tank for my application - made sure it had the deep neck that fits my radiator cap. A bit of silicone and some elbow grease and Voila! It's done. Gave it a little pressure test on the bench and it held up well! Carried it back home and reversed the steps to get it back in my Levin.

That was Monday - I'm writing this on Thursday and the tank is holding up well still.
I was worried I'd have to move up the timeline on getting one of those double core aluminum radiators. But Alas! The stock radiator lives to fight another day. I can put off that upgrade for a while.

Took the time to also try out some new LED bulbs I ordered same time as the clutch kit.
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The brass ones are the 1156 Single contact bulbs that work for Reverse and Turn signal. The chrome ones are 1157 Double Contact that work with your Hi/Lo Brake lights and Front Park Lights. The difference in brightness is obvious. Only downside is now I need a load resistor to fix the hyperflash caused by the LED bulbs

OK, that should be it for the first round of repairs. My next big work is fixing some leaks and front end bits. I'm also eyeballing some more stuff I want to buy off Ebay and install. I suppose I can make another post with a roadmap of upgrades I want to make. No crazy swaps or conversions - just some good upgrades that anyone can appreciate.

That's all for today! Cheers!
Last edited by matthewramdeen1 on Wed Aug 15, 2018 6:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: My '93 Toyota Corolla Levin AE101 "Di Analys"

Postby jondee86 » Fri Aug 10, 2018 2:58 pm

Welcome aboard Matthew :) Sure wish I lived somewhere that you could get
a radiator fixed on a public holiday, and workshops stayed open until the job
was done. Hope you bought those guys a cold drink when they were done :)

Glad you explained how you came to name your car. I read "dialysis" at first
glance and thought that's a strange name for a car :D

Cheers... jondee86
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Re: My '93 Toyota Corolla Levin AE101 "Di Analys"

Postby matthewramdeen1 » Sun Aug 12, 2018 10:45 am

jondee86 wrote:Welcome aboard Matthew :) Sure wish I lived somewhere that you could get
a radiator fixed on a public holiday, and workshops stayed open until the job
was done. Hope you bought those guys a cold drink when they were done :)

Glad you explained how you came to name your car. I read "dialysis" at first
glance and thought that's a strange name for a car :D

Cheers... jondee86


Thanks for the hospitality! Trust me, when your back is against the wall.... you pull out all the stops to make something happen. Didn't get to buy Radiator Lee a drink... but he did charge me a fair price for the tank and the labour - I was all in for JMD$6500 - which in USA terms works out to around USD$50.

Since I'm here typing.... might as well make my next update to the thread. This time - I'll just lay out the Roadmap for the build

Now As I mentioned before, I'm not trying to do anything crazy with Di Analys. So no swaps, no forced induction - really tryna just elevate the visceral feel, response and feedback with this platform. At the end of it, the mod list should be stuff that any future owner of the car could appreciate. Ideally, no mod should make the car worse than stock - and that's my goal!

For now I'll just make this a simple list of mods - If anything I can treat this like a sticky post and come back to it when I cange my mind on some items.
So here goes (In no particular order)

  1. Relocate Battery to the Trunk
    I actually did this with my Suzuki Swift. I was looking online at Taylor, Moroso and Allstar Battery boxes and trays and wasn't finding one that would match well with the batteries they sell here in Jamaica. I might go the same route as last time and have my fabricator guy make a custom steel box that I can bolt up to the chassis - It'll have foam padding keeping the battery in place and a vent tube for the acid fumes. I'll put it in the rear passenger side of the trunk to balance out my weight. From my experience, shifting the weight helps with the turn-in; but on the longer corners you may notice you don't have the weight to keep the wheels planted.
  2. Custom Air Box and Cold Air Intake
    I can only do this mod AFTER moving the battery to the trunk. I'll use that space to section off the cavity left from the battery for my cone air filter. I'll need my fabricator guy again to make something custom to fit the size filter I want. Also need him to build in a support for the factory Air Flow Meter. I'll pair it with a universal cold air intake kit to delete the flimsy rubber hose that clamps on to the intake plenum.
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  3. Lightweight Flywheel and Stage 3 Clutch DONE!
    Well this mod came ahead of schedule. Its a 4.7KG (10lb) flywheel.Only thing I see lighter than this is a 4.4KG Toda Racing flywheel for USD$300+ While this whole kit came with flywheel + clutch + pressure plate for USD$259. Very streetable - definite upgrade from stock Organic clutch. And I don't think I'll get anywhere near pushing the limits of the clutch. If it goes bust, I'll be the first to eat my words of my praise for the Ebay kit. :lol:
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  4. Lightweight Crank Pulley DONE!
    Taking the lightweight, rev-happy theme from the flywheel upgrade and taking it one step further. Only recently did I see NonStop Tuning Pulley kit in the classifieds section of the forum. But I've been eyeballing an Arospeed T6061 Aluminum Pulley for a while now.Want to put more control of the rev range under my right foot - making it easier to get it into VVTI when I need it for the overtake 8-)
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  5. Double Core Aluminum Radiator
    After the Radiator Lee episode - I can safely put off this mod for later down in Di Analys timeline. It will come in handy especially when tackling our new Jamaican Highways where I'll need to keep the 4AGE in the high RPM bands to keep up with traffic while going uphill for extended periods. Saw the radiator for this engine on Ebay for Around USD$145. I'd pair it up with 2 slim radiator fans and stainless radiator hose to make the entire cooling system bulletproof
  6. 320MM Steering Wheel DONE!
    I bought this car with a chipped and cracked 360MM aftermarket steering wheel. Besides it being an eyesore - It's much too big my handling and i sometimes hit my legs with big steering inputs. I want to take the size down to 320MM which suits my style and makes for faster steering inputs. I've been eyeballing an OMP Trecento steering wheel for a while now for USD$69 on Ebay. Hope I can make it happen
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  7. 4x100 15X8" Wheels with Kumho Ecsta Tires
    Currently have on a set of 16x7" wheels wrapped in Westlake tires :oops: Haven't found a ditch in them yet, but I can assure you they'll be gone by the time I get to endgame with Di Analys. I want to go with 8" wide wheels with 0 offset and wrap 'em in 225 tires. Looking for that aggressive stance.
  8. Spark Plug Cables DONE!
    Of course, yes I know going aftermarket Spark Plug wires isn't going to provide any performance boost, neither will I ever exceed the capacity of a set of OEM plug wires. But I like the look of coloured Plug wires, and 10MM worth of wire + insulation feels like a lot of peace of mind. Should outlast the car and set me up for any possible ignition mods I could dream of.
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  9. Triple A-Pillar Gauges: Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature & Wideband Air/Fuel
    The Levin already comes iwth a voltmeters so don't need that. But I would love to see some gauges that could indicates the health of the engine, possibly giving me a chance to pick up something going whrong before it goes horridly wrong. After a lot of research, the best 3 gauges for an A'pillar gauge pod would be: (1) Oil Pressure (2) Oil Temperature and (2) Wideband Air Fuel. In terms of the brand, I'm familiar with Glowshift, AEM, Defi, Prosport, PLX Multigauges, etc. But the one I like best is MaxTow - Yes they are marketed for Diesel Trucks - Yes they are a line under the Glowshift Brand. But I like the dual digital + analog display which I wasn't seeing across the other brands for a reasonable price. Looks like these.
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  10. Tire Pressure Monitoring System
    Another one for monitoring the car health, in particular tire health. I once found myself with a slow leak which topping up with air could only get me so far. Found out it was a screw wedged in the tire, ended up getting it plugged. I'd prefer to stop eyeballing and guessing if my tire can make it through the day and simply look at my gauge and have the facts. I like this kit from Orange Electronics - comes with internal sensors and not those silly sensor caps that can go missing with sticky fingers. Looks like this
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  11. Stainless 4-2-1 Exhaust Headers
    This would be more of an endgame mod - If I see myself still having Di Analys after a couple of years - I can try getting more performance oriented mods. Such as this 4-2-1 Exhaust manifold - Notice I didn't say 4-1 header, I'm looking for more low - mid end power to keep it peppy in the day-to-day traffic. After 4K RPM I'll just let the VVT-i do its thing and let me climp up through the RPM range.
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  12. Coilover Suspension
    Again - endgame level stuff. The amount of money to bring in a set of coilovers into my country would make it more like an investment, not a bolt-on mod. I'll keep looking if there's a reasonably priced Lowering Spring + Shock Combo out there. I'll need something with enough height and dampening adjustability for our Jamaican roads
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  13. Greddy Emanage Ultimate Piggyback ECU
    Did I say endgame already? :lol: Just in case - endgame level stuff. Not looking to get into the high price point of standalone Engine Management. I've been seeing that this unit as close as you can get to standalone features from a piggyback. If I was looking to optimize my powerband - this would be the way.
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  14. Pertronix Second Strike Ignition Box + Flame-Thrower HV Ignition Coil
    Once again for good measure - endgame. Combining this with my flywheel and pulley would really give the a punchiness to the engine response with my right foot.A set of iridium plugs and 10MM plug wires would give it the reliability factor for peace of mind.
    Image Image

So that's where my head is at with the mods list. As time progresses, as I learn more, as priorities shift - of course I can expect this list may change. And I may have a nice chuckle looking back in this thread and say "What the hell was I thinking in 2018??!!" :D
Last edited by matthewramdeen1 on Tue Sep 11, 2018 9:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: My '93 Toyota Corolla Levin AE101 "Di Analys"

Postby Jayrdee » Tue Aug 14, 2018 5:40 pm

Threads like this are what make the internet so f*cking cool. I always find it interesting to read the build threads of those from different parts of the globe.

Welcome to the forum! Definitely looking forward to seeing your progress!
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Re: My '93 Toyota Corolla Levin AE101 "Di Analys"

Postby matthewramdeen1 » Tue Aug 14, 2018 7:45 pm

Jayrdee wrote:Threads like this are what make the internet so f*cking cool. I always find it interesting to read the build threads of those from different parts of the globe.

Welcome to the forum! Definitely looking forward to seeing your progress!


Thanks man. The Tuner scene here in Jamaica is check full of 90's FWD Toyota, Honda and Nissan goodness.
Followed by the Subaru and Evo AWD scene.
And even more rare here is the RWD scene.

Truth be told, I first came on here and it seemed everybody and their grandma had an AE86 story to tell :lol: :D Didn't know if my little 'ol AE101 FWD corolla story would get any traction. But this is Club 4AG afterall - there's no 4AGE story too small for the community. ;)

By the way, for anyone with a C52 gearbox with their 4AGE 20V, take note. If you have the dreaded 2nd Gear Grind there are some things you can do to remedy tour situation, short of buying a gearbox rebuild kit and taking it to a transmission specialist
  1. Change your Gear Oil - 75W90 is what you need. 80W90 will be too thick on startup. If you can get synthetic - go for that too. Anywhere between 3 - 4 quarts depending on how far back you can tilt the front of your car to fill the box
  2. Adjust the clutch slave cylinder rod - so that it extends more on the pressure plate and takes more pressure off the clutch disc. Even though you press the clutch, it may be a case where you aren't getting 100% disengagement - and 2nd gear doesn't like that.
  3. SINK THAT CLUTCH ALL THE WAY - especially going into second, don't try to shift casually, make a concerted effort to sink that clutch or try to do a double clutch before engaging

I'm on 200KM into my new clutch, and by taking these measures in my daily drive, I forgot about the 2nd gear grind. Heck - I even shifted into 2nd after loading up 6K RPM in 1st gear and no grind!
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Re: My '93 Toyota Corolla Levin AE101 "Di Analys"

Postby matthewramdeen1 » Tue Sep 04, 2018 10:27 pm

OK... UPDATE TIME! :D :D

It's the never-ending cycle for the Enthusiast
  1. Order parts online
  2. Install said parts
  3. Enjoy the mods
  4. Discover another itch that needs to be scratched
  5. See Point #1 :D

I ordered 3 parts from my mod list I posted earlier
  1. Racing Spark Plug Wires
  2. 320MM Steering Wheel
  3. Lightweight Crank Pulley

Unfortunately only 2 of 3 parts arrived by the time the weekend rolled around - but I wasn't gonna let that stop me. Mapped out the schedule with my Trusty mechanic Travis https://www.facebook.com/travisthemobilemechanic/ and got around to it on Sunday.

So here's the story in pics.
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First up is the Service Parts List:
  1. 4 quarts of Valvoline 10W30 synthetic.
  2. Oil Filter - had the option of buying a purolator of the Japanese version - went JDM of course!
  3. New Plugs - I wanted NGK BKR6EP-11. But store gave me the cheaper copper version instead. Works good so far
  4. Amsoil Powerfoam to give the intake a good cleaning


Here's the montage of the service
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Travis started by jacking up the Di Analys, rest it on the jack stands then start to spin away at the undertray bolts. Next up to find the oil drain plug, position the oil drain pan and BAM! All the black goop was pouring out.

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While the car was still up... decided to address another issue I was having - Front Engine mount. Take a look at the old one - yep, busted! But the one I bought from the Auto parts store had a different design :? Travis figured something out though - with the right combination of 14MM bolts and washers... got it in! Engine feel very snug in its new home

OK, We're done under the car - now let's go topside!
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First pic is what I bought the car with - obviously the wrong set of wires for my 4AGE 20V - that set looks like it matches the 4AFE with the square tops. I bought the replacement set from B&B Manufacturing with their OML High Performance Race Wires. After some back and forth on the fitment - settled on the correct part number for my application. Red Matches my colour too! Just for comparison - take a look at the flimsy NGK wires compared to these beefy OML wires. Thoroughly impressed! http://bbmanufacturing.com/ Check them out if you're interested - they make kits for the 16V too

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  1. Old Plugs out - Some black deposits around the electrode - maybe a bit rich. But overall health seems OK. I've seen worse plugs.
  2. Dropped in the new set of coppers.
  3. OML Race wire set comes with 2 packets of Die electric grease - Damn straight we're gonna use it with the new plugs!
  4. The kits also comes with a set of wire separators to help organize these fat wires. Of course had to get rid of the OEM wire separators as they were too skinny. Doesn't look too shabby if I do say so myself.


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Getting towards the end now - pour in the good stuff. *glub glub glub* A spot of Oil Treatment for good measure

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One more problem I needed to fix. Always notice some "wetness" on the distributor side of the block. Told travis to take a look at it and figure its a seal that's not holding up. I got a new O-ring when I bought all the parts and Travis set to work. Pull off the Distributor Cap, use a marker to set set one of the notches as a reference point. Clean up the area. Then assemble it all together again with the new O-ring

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And the finishing touch. OMP Trecento 320MM Steering Wheel wrapped in calf leather. After putting in some seat time with this thing - I'm convinced it's my best mod to date. The smaller wheel makes this whale feel like a hot hatch - and I don't have to worry about sweaty hands. For $69 off ebay I can definitely recommend.

I'll drop in another update once the pulley gets here 8-)

Until then. Cheers!
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Re: My '93 Toyota Corolla Levin AE101 "Di Analys"

Postby matthewramdeen1 » Mon Sep 10, 2018 6:10 pm

OK, this is gunna be a quick one 8-)

Just Saturday I went to my foreign courier and picked up my Arospeed Lightwieght T6061 Aluminum Crank Pulley - roughly 70% lighter than the stock crank pulley. Got it at around 3:30pm on Saturday and didn't even wait - phoned up my mech Travis https://www.facebook.com/travisthemobilemechanic/ so we could get it installed for my cross country weekend run.

So here we go:
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Like I said before, I already spotted this Arospeed Crank Pulley and set my mind to buy it from about a month ago.
Only recently did I realize that one of our Vendors, NonStopTuning,has a similar aluminum kit. I'll see if I can support them somehow on the next buy.
But that's not a knock on this unit! The fit and finish on this is nice. The Arospeed brand carries a bit more weight than NST if I may say so myself. And I like this diamond coating more than the anodized colours. Not to mention, gives me an excuse to buy a Arospeed decal sticker, you know, for that extra 1hp. :D

Put it side by side with the stock unit and you can definitely tell you're getting the good stuff. And the weight of both in your hands - you can DEFINITELY tell the difference.


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OK, enough staring at the pulley, time to get it on there. For that I'm back at the shop, Rodgers' Tyre & Service Center http://bit.do/ewBMC Rolled Di Analys into the bay and we got it on the lift. Dropping in a few angle shots since I didn't have many from before :D

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So there's old betsy, in all her heavy, discoloured anc chipped glory. Say bye bye Betsy! :mrgreen: Hit it with the impact wrench to get the bolt loosened up and take some tension off the belt. Within a couple minutes it was ready to go. Put on the new one Crank Pulley easy peasy with the notched orientation - heck we even kept the sticker with the QR code. The alternator belt looks like crap though, so I'll be changing that out soon enough.

All in all, that's the install. Now I've taken it for a 100KM+ country run and here's my take. The pulley isn't a magic want, it's not "VTEC just kicked in yo!", it's not gunna pin you back in your seat. WHAT IT DOES DO - is make your throttle work much more efficiently.
  1. Picture yourself pressing the pedal 1/4 way to get the effect that you would pressing the pedal 1/2 way.
  2. If you want to cruise, you can just give the pedal 1% and it'll hold your speed steady.
  3. Makes the rev range feel smoother and predictable when on throttle.

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To Wrap it all up, Travis gave the underside an inspection - check all the suspension parts, came back with a parts list looking like this.
  1. Rack End
  2. Tie Rod End
  3. Rear Stabilizer Links
  4. Trailing Arm Bushings
  5. Rack & Pinion Overhaul
  6. Wheel Alignment

So I'll keep these in mind as i shoot for the next month end. Also contemplating moving the battery to the trunk as well - depending on the budget I might have to pick on. But we'll cross that bridge when we get to it. Oh, side note - finished my 1000KM clutch break in - think I can let it rip now :D

That's the latest for now. Cheers guys!
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matthewramdeen1
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Re: My '93 Toyota Corolla Levin AE101 "Di Analys"

Postby matthewramdeen1 » Wed Oct 03, 2018 6:18 pm

OK Folks... you know what time it is.... oh yeah :D

UPDATE TIME
Or as some might call it, "I've got an old car and gotta replace some suspension parts" time

It's all good though, I like bringing this car back to fighting form... learning along the way and enjoying the results. We got a lot to get through in this episode, so get strapped in, adjust the buffer speeds on your browsers... pics incoming! :twisted:

By now you all know my trusty mech, Travis, I'll drop a shameless plug anyway :D https://www.facebook.com/travisthemobilemechanic/.
Scheduled a time to get back to the Shop at Rodgers Tyre Centre in Portmore - find it here https://goo.gl/maps/h1EVA9kNJoD2

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Went to the auto parts stores early Saturday morning to grab the goods. I like shawn's for the price, but this time they didn't have everything I needed, so popped over to Sheldon's auto as for the rest. Asked for those discounts any chance I could get. As you can see, decent mix of front end and rear suspension bits. But that's not the biggest part of this story, not by a long shot. Stay Tuned! :)

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I honestly don't know why I keep taking these pics, you guys have seen Di Analys on the lifts in virtually every post I make. And everytime it's a dirty car, lol.

Before we move on.... a little ICE BREAKER! 8-) Spotted these hanging around the shop.
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Internet points to anyone who can guess (1) What engine head that isin first pic? (2) What Complete Engine that is in second pic?

OK, back to the car....
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There's Travis getting to work with the impact wrench, making some room to change out the suspension bits..... Hmmm, strange.... didn't think the subframe had to come out to change out rack ends, but ok.... wait, what's he doing around there - that's not how you change out the tie rod end.... [gasp].... the hell is my steering rack doing on the ground??!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Oh yes peeps, all that build up leads to this.... today we're rebuilding the rack and pinion. Solving the power steering fluid leaks once and for all!

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This guys does the rebuilds - Just for the record, there are other people that can do rebuilds - in fact, this shop came highly recommended as a nice shop that can rebuild your rack in an hour or so and for a fraction of the cost of Power Steering Specialist - check 'em out here: http://www.reconpowersteering.com/home.html. I'm just trying out another avenue - so later on in life I can tell a young whipper snapper what works and what doesn't :) .So he starts off by assessing the rack, then get's to work on pulling it apart. Before long we're left the the steering shaft - in all its dirty, greasy glory.

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Next up is cleanup time. About a gallon of gasoline and a paint brush did the trick - got all the dirt and grease out of the parts where it mattered. And while it's being cleaned up, all the old seals and o-rings were removed from the unit. And then the painstaking process of putting on the new seals, o-rings and lubricating the shaft begins.

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Time to put humpty dumpty back together again. Take the old seal - match it with the right size from the box of new seals - and place it back inside the rack in the right order. rinse and repeat and till all seals are replaced with the new stuff. Then lube it up with some grease - but not just any grease - notice the red tint, different form the grey goop you usually buy at the gas station. Then comes time to fit it back up in Di Analys. Make sure you catch it from the inside as well.

And with that, my power steering leak is gone. Of course I'm gonna watch it to see if it holds up, but I'm expecting to never have to top up power steering fluid in the foreseeable future. All in for this job, set me back the equivalent of USD$126 parts and labour - whole job took a matter of hours. Unfortunately, the work started late that day so by time we were done all the alignments shops were closed. :roll: Not to worry, Travis and Rack & Pinion guy gave me a drivable alignment to get me home that evening. First thing on Monday I'd find my way to the alignment stand.

..... But wait.... you didn't think we were done did you? :D there's still some more parts to install.
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Couple things going on here so lemme give you the run-down
  1. First up is the rear stabilizer links - you can see for yourself how worn and busted they were - second pic you can see shiny new Taiwanese bits :D You can also see Travis popping in some new rear disc pads.
  2. Second up is the trailing arm bushings, there was some play with the old bushings - improvised a way to squeeze out the old one with an old wheel knuckle, pipe and hammer - go figure.
  3. Alternator Belts - 4AGE uses a 5 rib belt - I count the ribs on the old one and some way - some how there were only 4 ribs :shock: Or what ws left on the ribs anyway. They were so severely busted, I dunno how I made it this far. Dropped in the new belt on my Aluminum Crank Pulley - put the tension on it and I'm good to go - no squeaks.
  4. OK - looking from the sides of the caliper I coulda sworn the pads were worn down more that what I have here. In any case - dropped in the new pads front and rear. I should be able to make some "Oh $#!T" stops on the boulevard and not fret about my pads from now on.


Don't go anywhere.... dropping the next post shortly to bring this episode to a close. :mrgreen:
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matthewramdeen1
Posts: 8
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Re: My '93 Toyota Corolla Levin AE101 "Di Analys"

Postby matthewramdeen1 » Wed Oct 03, 2018 6:59 pm

OK Lets wrap this up.

So last post I rebuilt the rack and pinion, changed out tie rod ends, rack ends.... the works :geek:
But there's only so much you can eyeball the alignment. The guys set me up with a pretty decent alignment - Only felt the steering pull if I really floored it. But the right advise was to give it an alignment as soon as I could - and that's what we're doing today.

So..... Fast Forward to Monday
I head on over to the Tyre Warehouse that is right frickin' beside my workplace at lunchtime, things just seem to work out. Here are the pics.
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So its the Tyre Warehouse on Spanish Town Road - they got like 5 balancing machines and only 1 alignment stand. I suppose if you're selling new tyres then balancing is more in demand. In any case - I came here to do 2 things
  1. 4 Wheel Alignment - Toe and Camber - I don't want any uneven wear or any uneven steering pull when I'm done
  2. Balance the front 2 tires - I'm always getting vibrations whenever I'm pushing past 100KPH - makes it harder to enjoy the 20V VVTI.


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First up is the balancing. pop the tire on the machine and let it spin. Within a couple of seconds it tells you how much weight you need to even things out.

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Balancing done, now we head on over to the alignment stand.They put the alignment sensors on Di Analys, punched in the card model and within a coule seconds we had an alignment target fro the front and rear to work towards. Rear Alignment was a walk in the park, really just setting the camber as close to neutral. But the front alignment.... my god. :D Alignment guy was like WTF dude! Take a look at the monitor shot, fronts were well into the red - I swear he was muscling under that rack end for the better part of 10 mins to get it back to green.

Whole thing cost me the equivalent of USD$26. Entirely worth it for the piece of mind. I can rest easy knowing I can push Di Analys on the toll road and not worry about vibrations or about unevenly wearing out the tyres.

Well that's the update for now peeps. Next update I should be buying some parts and making some changes in the engine bay.
Until next time.... cheers! :D
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