16v 4AGE making me lose my mind.

[fupersudge]

Having a issue with my 16v 4AGE swapped sr5 car. Its ran rough ever since I bought it and I've been trying to fix the issue. I added a EFI Main relay and bolted up the ground on the harness by the ECU that was not bolted up. Now the car idles low and like it has an aggressive cam. Also when I check timing its 10* even if the diag port is not jumped.

Anyone have any idea what could be wrong?

Car is a 1986 SR5, Engine is a 16v bigport 4AGE and the ECU is a kouki ecu. Not 100% what the harness is from though.

[allencr]

What's the compression?
Disable one cylinder at a time to find out which are & are not pulling their weight, they gotta be or should be equal, producing equal test results from each one.

[fupersudge]

What's the compression?
Disable one cylinder at a time to find out which are & are not pulling their weight, they gotta be or should be equal, producing equal test results from each one.

Compression SHOULD be damn near perfect. Engine has less than 3,000 miles on it. What would be the best way to disable the cylinder on these engines? Unplug injector?

Not used to these motors, not enough spinning triangles lol.

[fupersudge]

I let the car idle and I unplugged a buncha **** to see if anything changed.

TPS = stalled
MAF = stalled
Injectors = unchanged on 1 and 2, stalled on 3 and 4.

So it looks like the injectors on 1 and 2 are not working. As for what reason, I have no idea. I was told my car had the wrong injectors in it and is missing a resistor box that deals with the injectors. Not sure if this is something that was done for a reason before i got the car or not.

[yoshimitsuspeed]

It could be the injectors or it could be spark. Just because the motor has low mileage does not guarantee the compression is good. It could have been rebuilt poorly, it could have been honed wrong or not at all, it could be out of spec, or it could have been broken in poorly. It could have a cheap HG or one improperly installed that could be blowing between two cylinders etc. I deff second the idea to compression test it.
Next see if all four cyls are getting spark.
Make sure all four injectors are getting power to the + side.
With the injector clip off test the Ohms between the two terminals on the injector. If they are low impedance they should be around 3 Ohms and if they are high impedance they will be around 12 Ohms. They should all be about the same.
This will tell you whether or not you need a resistor pack.

If all the above checks out then a noid light would be very helpful. If you don't have one then one thing you could do is switch a working injector with one that isn't working. If the problem follows the injector then that's your problem. If the problem stays on the same cyl then it's most likely on the ground side of the injector wiring or in the ECU it's self. Check continuity between the negative on each injector clip and the injector pins going into the ECU. If continuity looks good then try a different ECU.

[fupersudge]

Ok...

Checked spark. Appears that all I am getting spark all around.
Checked Ohms on injectors, 15/15/15/16 is what I got on those. Appear to be redtop injectors ( tan top ) and from what I read this means I don't need the resistor box.
All clips for the injectors are getting 12v as well on both wires ( not even sure if this is right, but figured id mention it )

So then I was like "might as well just switch the injectors around and see what happens"

put the 3 and 4 injectors in the spots of 1 and 2, same issue. When I pull the clips for 1 and 2 the motor keeps running like the tractor is currently is. Dies out when I pull clips for 3 and 4. Then I switched the 3 injector clip around with the clip for 2. Turn on car, and pull the 3 injector clip that is currently in the 2 spot and the car dies.

So as far as I can tell, wires for 1 and 2 are no good...

[yoshimitsuspeed]

Wiring or ECU. Check continuity from the injector clip to the ECU clip on the FI wires.

[fupersudge]

Wiring or ECU. Check continuity from the injector clip to the ECU clip on the FI wires.

How do you do that?

[yoshimitsuspeed]

There should be two injector signal wires going into the ECU.
Pull the ECU plug out and locate the two pins using the BGB.
Pull the injector clips off and stick one end of the ohm meter in the negative pin on the injector clip. Stick the other end of the multimeter in the ECU clip. Try both injector pins. You should get continuity of two injectors on one pin and two injectors on the other pin. If the continuity is roughly the same on all four then the wiring is not likely your problem. If there is not continuity on the two that don't work or if they are significantly different than the two that do work then I would question the wiring. If they look good I would start to question the ECU.

[fupersudge]

I am getting roughly 22ohms on the yellow and black wire and 7-8ish on the red and white.

This is on every injector clip...

[yoshimitsuspeed]

I am getting roughly 22ohms on the yellow and black wire and 7-8ish on the red and white.

This is on every injector clip...

Ok. i'm not sure what they are supposed to be but all four being the same is a very good sign. Do you have or can you find another ECU to try?
You might just pull off the cover and see if there are any noticeably damaged or burnt components.

[fupersudge]

Not 100% sure what I am looking at inside here. So I took pictures. The brown spots don't look like they are burnt, but like I said...

I am not completely sure whats going on. Thats why I took pictures lol

[fupersudge]

Also, is it possible that I blew a relay or something when I bolted up the E01and E02 ground and that's what is causing this issue?

[yoshimitsuspeed]

I don't see anything unusual but it will be hard to see in pics.
You are mostly looking at the individual components. Look for burnt or leaking caps.




Burnt resistors


Or other anomalies and damage.



If it was a fuse or relay then none of the injectors would be working.

[fupersudge]

I am gonna check over some wiring stuff, and friend is coming this weekend probably with a spare ecu and etc.

hopefully I will be able to drive it soon...