thought id start a thread for my work in progress 7AG 20v, so far I've acquired a set late model Formula Atlantic throttle bodies(a friend of mine has developed an adapter for the 20v head!), VVT cam gear for the blacktop head, soon im getting my hands on some new cams! hope this build will pan out the way i want it :D

OH BOY!! Another 7AGE! I'll be watching this one.

I will ask why you went with the 20v head though. A lot do, but I've found the big port does as well, if not better. Having the 20v moniker is more an ego than necessity. Each to his own.

I have a couple of suggestions, right off the bat. The 4AGE oil pump and the 7AFE block oil galley interface is a tad off. Need a late 4AFE pump gasket and port match the holes or live with a restriction at the block.
And the other is to get the MRP girdle and studs. Can find it at "Battle Garage"(I'm taking for grated you reside in the U.S.A.). It's a bit pricey, but well wort it! A plus is being able to use the stamp steel 4AGE oil pan. Helps with the exhaust clearance issues under the block.
Another thing is to relocate the starter to the intake side of the engine. A 7AFE starter and backing plate do well enough, you don't NEED to source a 20v 4AGE starter and backing plate.

Just my 3 "must dos" for a 7AGE. I was able to use the stock exhaust with the steel pan and relocating the starter, I live in California and stock equipment keeps the Nazis happy.

Really helpful advice for someone.

totta crolla wrote:Really helpful advice for someone.

Isn't that why we are here?

With that in mind, anybody thinking of using ladder caps should consider the MRP girdle. Nice piece! Even in a 4AGE.

Another not a fan for a 7AG 20V, the intake valves are too small, compared to a fully ported big valve largeport head.

also the TRD F/A ITBs don't require an adapter for use on a largeport head. I wouldn't want to see the air flow disruption with an adapter that goes from the long wide TRD ITB to the oddly shaped 20V port. To be honest if running the 20V head, run the 20V throttles.

Unless you're building a full race engine the 7AGE does best with a mild to moderate small port head. An all out build is better with the large port. The 20v is mostly posturing.

Either way the 7A has become my favorite overall engine for my little cars.

Eagerly waiting to see where this build goes.

odd enough MRP chose a stock 20V head/oe cam on his 440hp 7AG beast. Hit a 'wall' with oem valvesprings iirc.

RollaChriz 550+hp street 7AG thru a stock 16V head/oe cam. So ya never know with these heads, until 'performance' tested
Obviously both boosted tho. A TON of n.a. 7AG builds documented & dyno'd on the web. Dunno how much info still up

From memory, RollaChriz did break his ladder caps... but I'd think that's a lotta stress on that poor li'l motor

sirdeuce wrote:OH BOY!! Another 7AGE! I'll be watching this one.

I will ask why you went with the 20v head though. A lot do, but I've found the big port does as well, if not better. Having the 20v moniker is more an ego than necessity. Each to his own.

I have a couple of suggestions, right off the bat. The 4AGE oil pump and the 7AFE block oil galley interface is a tad off. Need a late 4AFE pump gasket and port match the holes or live with a restriction at the block.
And the other is to get the MRP girdle and studs. Can find it at "Battle Garage"(I'm taking for grated you reside in the U.S.A.). It's a bit pricey, but well wort it! A plus is being able to use the stamp steel 4AGE oil pan. Helps with the exhaust clearance issues under the block.
Another thing is to relocate the starter to the intake side of the engine. A 7AFE starter and backing plate do well enough, you don't NEED to source a 20v 4AGE starter and backing plate.

Just my 3 "must dos" for a 7AGE. I was able to use the stock exhaust with the steel pan and relocating the starter, I live in California and stock equipment keeps the Nazis happy.

no particular reason, just whats currently available to me! ill take note of the issue with the oil pump and the advice on the starter, thanks for the info

oldeskewltoy wrote:Another not a fan for a 7AG 20V, the intake valves are too small, compared to a fully ported big valve largeport head.

also the TRD F/A ITBs don't require an adapter for use on a largeport head. I wouldn't want to see the air flow disruption with an adapter that goes from the long wide TRD ITB to the oddly shaped 20V port. To be honest if running the 20V head, run the 20V throttles.

yeah some friends have told me that its a bad idea, but i wanted to do something a little different, chances are ill swap back to my S/T throttles and use the FA throttles on a less serious engine.

been slowly gathering parts..

so far i have some cams, and a whole rotating assembly. my cylinder head needs some work so im sending it into a machine shop soon. so i was thinking i might as well have my exhaust and intake ports shaved and polished too, does anyone have any advice about this? theres nothing in the TRD bible about 20v heads other than part numbers.

Kuromi_loves_toyota wrote:been slowly gathering parts..

so far i have some cams, and a whole rotating assembly. my cylinder head needs some work so im sending it into a machine shop soon. so i was thinking i might as well have my exhaust and intake ports shaved and polished too, does anyone have any advice about this? theres nothing in the TRD bible about 20v heads other than part numbers.

I've been known to work 20V heads, here are 2 recent examples:
https://gallery.ostportworks.com/thumbn ... ?album=103
https://gallery.ostportworks.com/thumbn ... ?album=112

sick! ill definitely use your work as reference material, if you dont mind could i send you a private message about a commission?

Kuromi_loves_toyota wrote:sick! ill definitely use your work as reference material, if you dont mind could i send you a private message about a commission?

sure....