AE86 4AGE overheat

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jondee86
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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby jondee86 » Tue Jan 03, 2017 7:29 pm

Swooki wrote:I did the resistance test of male terminal and i got = 1182 is that okay?

That's very close to what I got when I tested mine, so I would call that good :)

One thing you will find with an AE86 is that electrical connections build up a bit
of extra resistance due to old age, vibration and oxidation/corrosion. This means
that many times when a switch doesn't work, relays don't click or electrical stuff
just works a bit randomly, you can fix it by simply unplugging connectors, fuses,
relays etc and putting them back.

Pulling the connector apart and pushing it back together gives the contacting
surfaces a bit of a scrape/wipe/clean that removes the oxidation, and restores
a good contact. So when strange electrical gremlins infest your car, sometimes
pulling all the fuses and relays is all it takes. Loosening ground screws until you
can twist the lug back and forth a little, then tightening the screw again, does
the same thing for your ground connections.

Cheers... jondee86
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CloudStrife
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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby CloudStrife » Wed Jan 04, 2017 10:36 am

I didn't read the initial post, but usually when taking current measurements, especially resistance (ohms), on cars as old as this, you should take it with a grain of salt like JohnDee said.

For the most part, when you are reading resistance, from my experience, a complete OPEN is what you are looking for ("OL", "overload", or anything with thousand ohm readings). An open is the most important; some systems you are measuring are little princess fairies and become unhappy at moderate ohm fluctuation readings, even just outside of the parameters in the FSM. But for the most part, being a little bit over the narrow range should be ok :)

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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby Swooki » Thu Jan 05, 2017 1:44 pm

jondee86 wrote:
Swooki wrote:I did the resistance test of male terminal and i got = 1182 is that okay?

That's very close to what I got when I tested mine, so I would call that good :)

One thing you will find with an AE86 is that electrical connections build up a bit
of extra resistance due to old age, vibration and oxidation/corrosion. This means
that many times when a switch doesn't work, relays don't click or electrical stuff
just works a bit randomly, you can fix it by simply unplugging connectors, fuses,
relays etc and putting them back.

Pulling the connector apart and pushing it back together gives the contacting
surfaces a bit of a scrape/wipe/clean that removes the oxidation, and restores
a good contact. So when strange electrical gremlins infest your car, sometimes
pulling all the fuses and relays is all it takes. Loosening ground screws until you
can twist the lug back and forth a little, then tightening the screw again, does
the same thing for your ground connections.

Cheers... jondee86


:) sick! dude no wonder!! I was messing with my relays and fuses and i fixed the hazard light. the hazard wasn't working but the turn signal was? Then couple days ago the turn signal went out and hazard worked lol so i just shook the wires around the it went back to normal. Now i finally understand why it's doing that. Thank you so much for your help!!!! I am thinking of painting the car soon like just a 300 dollar paint job so it doesnt rust out. Right now it's all sanded down and primered. I am leaving for a year in August so planning for a cheap paint job to prevent rust and when i come back i will paint the whole shell take everything out. what you think? :mrgreen:

CloudStrife wrote:I didn't read the initial post, but usually when taking current measurements, especially resistance (ohms), on cars as old as this, you should take it with a grain of salt like JohnDee said.

For the most part, when you are reading resistance, from my experience, a complete OPEN is what you are looking for ("OL", "overload", or anything with thousand ohm readings). An open is the most important; some systems you are measuring are little princess fairies and become unhappy at moderate ohm fluctuation readings, even just outside of the parameters in the FSM. But for the most part, being a little bit over the narrow range should be ok :)


Oh okay that's a relief. I am new to using a multimeter. None of my friends know how lol some didn't even know what it was :?:

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jondee86
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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby jondee86 » Thu Jan 05, 2017 4:01 pm

Swooki wrote: ... so planning for a cheap paint job to prevent rust and when i come back i will paint
the whole shell take everything out. what you think?

Body shop paint supplier should be able to fix you up with some good "zinc oxide"
or similar rust preventing primer/undercoat. Might save you a bit of prep work
in a years time... talk to the experts about that one.

Gutting a whole car to a bare shell for painting will be a lot of work and it will
reduce you to tears more than once. But, when you finally get it back together
and hear it run for the first time, you will have learned a heap about cars, and
you will have a grin from ear to ear :D Built not bought... its the best feeling !!!

Cheers... jondee86
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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby Swooki » Thu Jan 05, 2017 8:22 pm

jondee86 wrote:
Swooki wrote: ... so planning for a cheap paint job to prevent rust and when i come back i will paint
the whole shell take everything out. what you think?

Body shop paint supplier should be able to fix you up with some good "zinc oxide"
or similar rust preventing primer/undercoat. Might save you a bit of prep work
in a years time... talk to the experts about that one.

Gutting a whole car to a bare shell for painting will be a lot of work and it will
reduce you to tears more than once. But, when you finally get it back together
and hear it run for the first time, you will have learned a heap about cars, and
you will have a grin from ear to ear :D Built not bought... its the best feeling !!!

Cheers... jondee86


What's zinc oxide lol i can't find any information on it. I will contact local shops. So you wouldn't recommend me to get a like a $400 paint job for now? Then when i come back in a year have the whole shell painted with show room paint and all?

Sounds amazing!! I never took a whole car apart like that.. or will the job do it?
I do not trust myself painting it myself i was thinking of letting a shop do it aha(no experience)

Am i suppose to gut the car myself and just give them the shell?(tow it to them) or should i let them gut it and stuff.
I dont want the shell be grinding on the floor =( itll mess up the new paint!!

There's like little rusts everywhere inside and out, thats why i wanna paint the whole car and i can prevent some parts from rusting. I looked under the drivers side and my clutch and stuff are all rusted lol

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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby jondee86 » Thu Jan 05, 2017 10:16 pm

Swooki wrote:So you wouldn't recommend me to get a like a $400 paint job for now? Then when
i come back in a year have the whole shell painted with show room paint and all.

This question can't be answered definitely without a lot more information on the
condition of the car right now, where it is going to be stored, what kind of climate
you have etc etc. Primer in general is not enough to stop bare metal rusting, as it
is not waterproof. To keep moisture away from the metal you need at least a coat
of enamel (which is waterproof). There are special primers for steel that have some
form of zinc mixed in with the paint, but most of them are not really suitable for
automotive use.

A $400 "closed door"paint job will be fine so long as you tell the people that are doing
the painting that you intend doing a full repaint at a later date. That way they can
advise you on what paint to use that will be suitable for adding further coats later.

Under the dash you will find a lot of bare steel parts with surface rust. It seems that
since they are not seen, the factory did not waste money on painting them :) Again,
there are products that can be applied to rust to neutralize it and stop it spreading
until it can be permanently fixed. Have a read of aceforever's build thread as he
already went down the same road you are heading...
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14755&start=90#p101623

Read the whole thread if you have some spare time... there are a lot of really useful
tips in there, and DIY treatments for rust and other problems.

Cheers... jondee86
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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby CloudStrife » Fri Jan 06, 2017 9:41 am

If you want to use spot treatments for rusting, look up "POR15", it's the best stuff in the U.S. market.

Be sure to wear eye, mask, and glove protection as it's toxic as all hell :)

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywo ... 9lt9eyh0_b

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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby CloudStrife » Fri Jan 06, 2017 9:42 am

And there are shops that will completely take apart your chassis and paint, but that kind of job starts getting anywhere from 5, 10, 15k...

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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby Swooki » Sat Jan 07, 2017 7:31 pm

jondee86 wrote:
Swooki wrote:So you wouldn't recommend me to get a like a $400 paint job for now? Then when
i come back in a year have the whole shell painted with show room paint and all.

This question can't be answered definitely without a lot more information on the
condition of the car right now, where it is going to be stored, what kind of climate
you have etc etc. Primer in general is not enough to stop bare metal rusting, as it
is not waterproof. To keep moisture away from the metal you need at least a coat
of enamel (which is waterproof). There are special primers for steel that have some
form of zinc mixed in with the paint, but most of them are not really suitable for
automotive use.

A $400 "closed door"paint job will be fine so long as you tell the people that are doing
the painting that you intend doing a full repaint at a later date. That way they can
advise you on what paint to use that will be suitable for adding further coats later.

Under the dash you will find a lot of bare steel parts with surface rust. It seems that
since they are not seen, the factory did not waste money on painting them :) Again,
there are products that can be applied to rust to neutralize it and stop it spreading
until it can be permanently fixed. Have a read of aceforever's build thread as he
already went down the same road you are heading...
http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php ... 90#p101623

Read the whole thread if you have some spare time... there are a lot of really useful
tips in there, and DIY treatments for rust and other problems.

Cheers... jondee86


Exactly. I have no where to store it. Parents don't want to clean out the garage full of junk or even let me touch it. It may be outside covered or i'll teach my family to drive stick and drive it every other day. I live in LA. Where could i get a coat of enamel for rust prevention? hm.. so what do you suggest i do if i cannot go with the primer route? Should i just get a $400 dollar paint job like you said and tell them that i plan to do a full repaint at a later date?

Also, My friend told me if i get a $400 dollar paint job it'll be hard to take out to repaint because it's cheap paint. is that true?

I will look at that post!! thanks =)

CloudStrife wrote:If you want to use spot treatments for rusting, look up "POR15", it's the best stuff in the U.S. market.

Be sure to wear eye, mask, and glove protection as it's toxic as all hell :)

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywo ... 9lt9eyh0_b

And there are shops that will completely take apart your chassis and paint, but that kind of job starts getting anywhere from 5, 10, 15k...


I heard of POR15! so do i just apply it to the rust part? and that's all? have you ever used it?

Do you think i should just paint the whole car $400 closed door and repaint the whole shell at a later date.. (planning to teach family how to drive stick so they can drive it around once in a while) My friend told me if i get a $400 dollar paint job it'll be hard to take out to repaint because it's cheap paint. is that true?

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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby jondee86 » Sat Jan 07, 2017 7:53 pm

Swooki wrote:Should i just get a $400 dollar paint job like you said and tell them that i plan
to do a full repaint at a later date?

Take your car to the paint and panel guy and tell him what you want to do... something
to stop it rusting for the year while you are away and the car is stored outside. Preparation
is the key to a quality paint job, and you won't get a lot of prep work done with a $400
paint job. So whatever paint you put on now needs to be a suitable base for further prep
work and finishing coats later.

That's what you need to discuss with the paint and panel guy. If he can see your car and
what you have done up until now, he should be able to give you good advice :)

Cheers... jondee86
Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.

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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby totta crolla » Sun Jan 08, 2017 5:44 am

Mine is a rally car, it gets used Year round and needs to deal with everything I can throw at it including heavily salted roads, this stuff just does the job:
http://www.mslmagazine.co.uk/tested-acf ... on-review/
I use a pump up garden sprayer to apply to the chassis once a Year. Water, mud, salt just washes off with water from a hose.
My laid up MR2 also benefits from a coating once a Year. The quart sized bottle does both cars with some left over.

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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby CloudStrife » Sun Jan 08, 2017 2:50 pm

Yeah, I've used PoR-15 before and it is awesome. Basically, you just sand off the rusted or bare metal areas, clean it with a good degreaser (dawn dish soap is good if you don't have any fancy stuff), and apply I think 3 light coats. You can then either use a top coat (POR-15 also sells this, you want to top coat anything that has a significant amount of UV exposure), or you can jst leave the initial base coat open to atmosphere.

I didn't top coat mine, as I want to identify the rust spots, what caused them (I.E. where they are leaking), and remember where I applied my rust inhibitor, but you don't have to do that.

If you get a can of it, it's more than enough, it's a medium viscosity and is applied with a sponge-type applicator (Lowe's/Home Depot/ etc. should have this).

Once that stuff dries, it will almost never come off. Even sanding it off is a big pain in the a** :). It is very tough stuff.

On painting the car, I always suggest two options:

1.) Strip, sand, prime, and mask off the car your self. If you do all the prep work, you can take it into a good paintshop for a cheap re-spray. Most of the cost of a good paint job goes into pre-paint work. A re-spray can go for anywhere between 250-800 depending on a multitude of factors.

2.) Learn how to paint yourself. I don't really know the specifics, but it's not too hard too learn. You can start by taking the money you would spend on a paint job, and buy an HVLP gun, paint, and materials. https://www.google.com/search?q=hvlp+pa ... BnAQsxgIHA

You could also just go to Maco or a cheap paint shop and ask for a re-spray, but they will get overspray everywhere. It's not hard to remove overspray, just a lot of elbow grease...

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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby Swooki » Tue Jan 10, 2017 6:55 pm

jondee86 wrote:
Swooki wrote:Should i just get a $400 dollar paint job like you said and tell them that i plan
to do a full repaint at a later date?

Take your car to the paint and panel guy and tell him what you want to do... something
to stop it rusting for the year while you are away and the car is stored outside. Preparation
is the key to a quality paint job, and you won't get a lot of prep work done with a $400
paint job. So whatever paint you put on now needs to be a suitable base for further prep
work and finishing coats later.

That's what you need to discuss with the paint and panel guy. If he can see your car and
what you have done up until now, he should be able to give you good advice :)

Cheers... jondee86


Oh okay. I will do more research on local people who does body and paint works!! thanks =) keep you updated.

What would you do?

totta crolla wrote:Mine is a rally car, it gets used Year round and needs to deal with everything I can throw at it including heavily salted roads, this stuff just does the job:
http://www.mslmagazine.co.uk/tested-acf ... on-review/
I use a pump up garden sprayer to apply to the chassis once a Year. Water, mud, salt just washes off with water from a hose.
My laid up MR2 also benefits from a coating once a Year. The quart sized bottle does both cars with some left over.

found it on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-AC ... rds=acf+50
Woah so i can just spray it over the bare metal all over the car and i'd be cool? Especially since a quart size bottle can do a two cars according to you! :D
What would you do?

CloudStrife wrote:Yeah, I've used PoR-15 before and it is awesome. Basically, you just sand off the rusted or bare metal areas, clean it with a good degreaser (dawn dish soap is good if you don't have any fancy stuff), and apply I think 3 light coats. You can then either use a top coat (POR-15 also sells this, you want to top coat anything that has a significant amount of UV exposure), or you can jst leave the initial base coat open to atmosphere.

I didn't top coat mine, as I want to identify the rust spots, what caused them (I.E. where they are leaking), and remember where I applied my rust inhibitor, but you don't have to do that.

If you get a can of it, it's more than enough, it's a medium viscosity and is applied with a sponge-type applicator (Lowe's/Home Depot/ etc. should have this).

Once that stuff dries, it will almost never come off. Even sanding it off is a big pain in the a** :). It is very tough stuff.

On painting the car, I always suggest two options:

1.) Strip, sand, prime, and mask off the car your self. If you do all the prep work, you can take it into a good paintshop for a cheap re-spray. Most of the cost of a good paint job goes into pre-paint work. A re-spray can go for anywhere between 250-800 depending on a multitude of factors.

2.) Learn how to paint yourself. I don't really know the specifics, but it's not too hard too learn. You can start by taking the money you would spend on a paint job, and buy an HVLP gun, paint, and materials. https://www.google.com/search?q=hvlp+pa ... BnAQsxgIHA

You could also just go to Maco or a cheap paint shop and ask for a re-spray, but they will get overspray everywhere. It's not hard to remove overspray, just a lot of elbow grease...

My car is already all sanded down and primered. Where can i get light coats? Got any links?
Found a POR 15 top coat. ( https://www.walmart.com/ip/POR-15-45918 ... 3=&veh=sem )

Maybe i can get something like this to use the POR 15. http://puu.sh/ticEu/86f7f0e09f.jpg

Did you do POR 15 all over the car or just rust spots?
(There are instructions on the POR 15 on how to apply right?)

1. Car is already sanded and primered!! =) hatch hood isnt tho. 250 sounds really cheap i'd be down for it as long i can prevent rust.

2. I always wanted to learn but my friend told me it is really hard and i can mess up easily. I will watch videos on how to do paint jobs. Maybe i should get a part from junk yard and practice lool like a hood or something idk.

I never heard of Maco until you mentioned it LOL. You really think there will be alot of over spray? hmm idk man lol i wanna get a cheap paint job for now but might do POR 15...
I can just put POR 15 on rust spots thats it? Will the shop have trouble sanding it down?

What would you do?

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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby jondee86 » Tue Jan 10, 2017 8:14 pm

Swooki wrote:What would you do?

I already gave you my recommendation. Right now you are getting suggestions for
products that are entirely unsuitable for what you want to do. POR15 is a great product
and I have used it... problem is that it cures hard as hell. It's used for rust protection
on the chassis and hidden places... never on exterior panel surfaces exposed to view.
The POR topcoat is designed for use over the POR15 rust treatment.

The ACF-50 also sounds like a great product, but I don't see any info on how to remove
it when you want to paint the car. I would say that unless you can remove it completely
from the surface you will not be able to get paint to stick. Good paint adhesion relies
on the surface being free of grease, oil, wax etc... so, do you feel lucky ??

I figure that if you want good advice, go ask an expert (or two). That's what I would do :)

Cheers... jondee86
Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.

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Re: AE86 4AGE overheat

Postby Swooki » Tue Jan 10, 2017 10:44 pm

jondee86 wrote:
Swooki wrote:What would you do?

I already gave you my recommendation. Right now you are getting suggestions for
products that are entirely unsuitable for what you want to do. POR15 is a great product
and I have used it... problem is that it cures hard as hell. It's used for rust protection
on the chassis and hidden places... never on exterior panel surfaces exposed to view.
The POR topcoat is designed for use over the POR15 rust treatment.

The ACF-50 also sounds like a great product, but I don't see any info on how to remove
it when you want to paint the car. I would say that unless you can remove it completely
from the surface you will not be able to get paint to stick. Good paint adhesion relies
on the surface being free of grease, oil, wax etc... so, do you feel lucky ??

I figure that if you want good advice, go ask an expert (or two). That's what I would do :)

Cheers... jondee86


Oh ops i accidentally copied and paste that into your reply LOL mb :(

Yes thanks for your advice i appreciate it!!
I seen one person use POR 15 all over his VW bus aha.
I might just use it for the rusted parts under the dash and stuff.

Last question.
I was doing research and i want to paint the car panda.
But i couldn't find any information on the correct color code for it.

People said to do 038 or 041 for panda and not sure which is the best. What do you think?
And 202 for black.

And is there like a post where it says where to paint the car half black? do you get me?
:?:

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Re: AE86 Paint Colour Codes...

Postby jondee86 » Tue Jan 10, 2017 11:40 pm

Copied this from a post on the AE86DrivingClub site...

AE86 colours:

038 White (1983-84)
041 White (1985-87)
147 Silver Metallic (1983-85)
148 Silver Metallic (1987)
151
159 Medium Gray Metallic (1987)
164 Silver Metallic
202 Black (1987)
204 Black Metallic (1986)
23D Silver Metallic (164)/Medium Gray Metallic (159) (2 Tone)
2M8 Silver Metallic (147)/Black (202) (1984)
2M9 Red (3D7)/Black (202) (1984)
2N2 White/Black panda (early)
2T6 Red (3E6)/Black (202) (1985-86)
2T7 White (041/Black panda using 041 white
2P2 silver
2X1 silver
2X5 Light Blue Metallic (8C7)/Medium Blue Metallic (8D4) (2 Tone)
2W9 silver
3C3 Shell Metallic
3C7 Rose Gray Metallic
3D6 Dark Orange Metallic (1984)
3D7 Red (1984)
3E6 Red (1985-87)
3G9 Wine Metallic (1987)
4E1 Light Topaz Metallic (1984)
558 Yellow (1984)
561 Yellow (1985)
6G5 Light Green Metallic
8A8 Light Blue Metallic (1983-85)
8A9 Blue Metallic
8B1 Deep Blue (1984)
8C7 Light Blue Metallic (1986-1987)
8D7 Blue Metallic (1987)
8D8 Light Blue Metallic

Looks like 041 over 202 for a black and white panda. 041 is apparently not a modern
"bright white", and some people seem to like it better because it is more in keeping
with the white used on Toyotas in the 1980's. Sorry, can't help with which colour goes
where. I guess you just have to find a pic that you think looks good, and follow that.

Cheers... jondee86
Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.

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Re: AE86 Paint Colour Codes...

Postby Swooki » Thu Jan 12, 2017 11:40 pm

jondee86 wrote:Copied this from a post on the AE86DrivingClub site...

AE86 colours:

038 White (1983-84)
041 White (1985-87)
147 Silver Metallic (1983-85)
148 Silver Metallic (1987)
151
159 Medium Gray Metallic (1987)
164 Silver Metallic
202 Black (1987)
204 Black Metallic (1986)
23D Silver Metallic (164)/Medium Gray Metallic (159) (2 Tone)
2M8 Silver Metallic (147)/Black (202) (1984)
2M9 Red (3D7)/Black (202) (1984)
2N2 White/Black panda (early)
2T6 Red (3E6)/Black (202) (1985-86)
2T7 White (041/Black panda using 041 white
2P2 silver
2X1 silver
2X5 Light Blue Metallic (8C7)/Medium Blue Metallic (8D4) (2 Tone)
2W9 silver
3C3 Shell Metallic
3C7 Rose Gray Metallic
3D6 Dark Orange Metallic (1984)
3D7 Red (1984)
3E6 Red (1985-87)
3G9 Wine Metallic (1987)
4E1 Light Topaz Metallic (1984)
558 Yellow (1984)
561 Yellow (1985)
6G5 Light Green Metallic
8A8 Light Blue Metallic (1983-85)
8A9 Blue Metallic
8B1 Deep Blue (1984)
8C7 Light Blue Metallic (1986-1987)
8D7 Blue Metallic (1987)
8D8 Light Blue Metallic

Looks like 041 over 202 for a black and white panda. 041 is apparently not a modern
"bright white", and some people seem to like it better because it is more in keeping
with the white used on Toyotas in the 1980's. Sorry, can't help with which colour goes
where. I guess you just have to find a pic that you think looks good, and follow that.

Cheers... jondee86


Thanks bro. Appreciate it. I will let you know how everything goes! =)

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