4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

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RLZ
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4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:34 am

I know there is some ppl running this set up, just wondering does it needs any modification on the block to run all the ae86 gts stuffs? like oil pump water pump alternator etc.. Someone selling a 1620 long block i would like to get it if its easy to drop in and go, any opinions guys? thanks!
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby MisterJerk » Thu Jun 11, 2015 10:05 am

I have had my 1620 going on 3 years now. 20v BT bottom end with 16v oil pump and all 16v accessories. 16v head large port head and stock cams and ecu/wiring.

originally i used the complete bottom end with oil pump and everything. had to notch the alternator, and shave the water pump ribs, for the tensioner.
a year later, switched to new oem 16v oil pump and changed the alternator bracket. also deleted the bottom block to tranny mounts.

the 20v pan does not have the oil cooler drain, so i deleted mine. removed the cooler and oil filter is directly on the block(like jdm)

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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby oldeskewltoy » Thu Jun 11, 2015 11:36 am

MisterJerk wrote:I have had my 1620 going on 3 years now. 20v BT bottom end with 16v oil pump and all 16v accessories. 16v head large port head and stock cams and ecu/wiring.

originally i used the complete bottom end with oil pump and everything. had to notch the alternator, and shave the water pump ribs, for the tensioner.
a year later, switched to new oem 16v oil pump and changed the alternator bracket. also deleted the bottom block to tranny mounts.

the 20v pan does not have the oil cooler drain, so i deleted mine. removed the cooler and oil filter is directly on the block(like jdm)



You can buy an oil pan that fits the 20V that accommodates an oil cooler... search for 1988-1992 Corolla All-Trac (AE95). The oil pan can be purchased new on Rock Auto for about $50
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Thu Jun 11, 2015 12:45 pm

MisterJerk wrote:I have had my 1620 going on 3 years now. 20v BT bottom end with 16v oil pump and all 16v accessories. 16v head large port head and stock cams and ecu/wiring.

originally i used the complete bottom end with oil pump and everything. had to notch the alternator, and shave the water pump ribs, for the tensioner.
a year later, switched to new oem 16v oil pump and changed the alternator bracket. also deleted the bottom block to tranny mounts.

the 20v pan does not have the oil cooler drain, so i deleted mine. removed the cooler and oil filter is directly on the block(like jdm)



Needs notch the alternator and shave the water pump if i use the complete 20v block, what about i use the 16v alternator/bracket, water pump and oil pump? because i have a fully stock 16v blue top on my car now, i could use all of the blue top accessories if needed. What did you mean delete the bottom block? For oil pan i will just get the ae95 one like oldeskewltoy said above. Also what do i need to look at if im buying a 1620 long block from someone? thanks!
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby MisterJerk » Thu Jun 11, 2015 1:16 pm

RLZ wrote:Needs notch the alternator and shave the water pump if i use the complete 20v block, what about i use the 16v alternator/bracket, water pump and oil pump? because i have a fully stock 16v blue top on my car now, i could use all of the blue top accessories if needed. What did you mean delete the bottom block? For oil pan i will just get the ae95 one like oldeskewltoy said above. Also what do i need to look at if im buying a 1620 long block from someone? thanks!



the 16v alternator bracket, 16v water pump ribs and the 20v tensioner, live in the same spot. You will not have this problem, running 16v oil pump and water pump. Do not mix up the lower timing pulleys, 20v is wider.

You will need to xfer the stud for the timing belt tensioner spring as well.

block to tranny reinforcements, cast iron things that bolt to the 16v block and the tranny bellhousing. they dont bolt to the 20v block.

you may need to do somethign about a thicker HG, 1.0mm mls type or something to that effect(I did, cause stock cams)

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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:41 pm

MisterJerk wrote:
RLZ wrote:Needs notch the alternator and shave the water pump if i use the complete 20v block, what about i use the 16v alternator/bracket, water pump and oil pump? because i have a fully stock 16v blue top on my car now, i could use all of the blue top accessories if needed. What did you mean delete the bottom block? For oil pan i will just get the ae95 one like oldeskewltoy said above. Also what do i need to look at if im buying a 1620 long block from someone? thanks!



the 16v alternator bracket, 16v water pump ribs and the 20v tensioner, live in the same spot. You will not have this problem, running 16v oil pump and water pump. Do not mix up the lower timing pulleys, 20v is wider.

You will need to xfer the stud for the timing belt tensioner spring as well.

block to tranny reinforcements, cast iron things that bolt to the 16v block and the tranny bellhousing. they dont bolt to the 20v block.

you may need to do somethign about a thicker HG, 1.0mm mls type or something to that effect(I did, cause stock cams)



ok got it, what injectors you used? since the compression been increased will the blue top injectors still works? can i use the red top injectors with a red top ECU? Do you have your build thread really interested in this set up :D
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby yoshimitsuspeed » Thu Jun 11, 2015 10:15 pm

I will never understand why there is so much interest in this hybrid. Piston geometry is so important to an optimized build and it all revolves around the pistons relationship to the head.
How much are you spending on this hybrid motor?
How does that compare to a proper build with proper top and bottom end designed for each other?
If you come across a killer deal and will be satisfied with mediocre results and are willing to have an interference motor that doesn't even have good piston geometry then go for it I guess but I would rather spend a little more money on a proper build.
Hell I hate shaving the head and block to try to gain compression but I would rather run a 16v head with NA pistons and a massive head shave over 20v pistons. At least they were designed for the head and aren't a bad design.

As to your compression I don't know why people think this would change the injector requirements but it does not. You are not increasing airflow therefore you do not need more fuel.

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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Thu Jun 11, 2015 10:44 pm

yoshimitsuspeed wrote:I will never understand why there is so much interest in this hybrid. Piston geometry is so important to an optimized build and it all revolves around the pistons relationship to the head.
How much are you spending on this hybrid motor?
How does that compare to a proper build with proper top and bottom end designed for each other?
If you come across a killer deal and will be satisfied with mediocre results and are willing to have an interference motor that doesn't even have good piston geometry then go for it I guess but I would rather spend a little more money on a proper build.
Hell I hate shaving the head and block to try to gain compression but I would rather run a 16v head with NA pistons and a massive head shave over 20v pistons. At least they were designed for the head and aren't a bad design.

As to your compression I don't know why people think this would change the injector requirements but it does not. You are not increasing airflow therefore you do not need more fuel.


I know, You are right, if i have $$ i would rather build my blue top, because someone selling a 0 mile 1620 long block which is rebuilt blue top head, new valves, valve seats, valve guides, valve springs, 7 rib block, with 20v crank, red top high comp pistons, fully balanced as well, head and block have been decked, ACL bearings and ARP studs, all torqued in 3 stages etc...he asking $1600 for it, sounds like a good price because if i rebuild my blue top its almost the same price maybe more depends. Do you think its worth to get this set up? i will consider your opinions for sure you guys has more knowledge than me, im appreciate your help :D
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby Rogue-AE95 » Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:37 pm

RLZ wrote:with 20v crank, red top high comp pistons


That changes everything about our opinions on this "hybrid." Except what was said earlier about the water pump, block stiffeners, etc. About the oil pan, you could always have a bung welded to the pan for an oil drain.

16v pistons belong under a 16v head like Yoshi's been saying (this and another post). Much better than running 20v pistons under a 16v head.

Price? I don't know, it sounds good to me, but I would want to see paperwork/receipts for all of the work. Including contact info for the shop to verify the work that was done.
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Fri Jun 12, 2015 11:03 pm

Rogue-AE95 wrote:
RLZ wrote:with 20v crank, red top high comp pistons


That changes everything about our opinions on this "hybrid." Except what was said earlier about the water pump, block stiffeners, etc. About the oil pan, you could always have a bung welded to the pan for an oil drain.

16v pistons belong under a 16v head like Yoshi's been saying (this and another post). Much better than running 20v pistons under a 16v head.

Price? I don't know, it sounds good to me, but I would want to see paperwork/receipts for all of the work. Including contact info for the shop to verify the work that was done.



I don't think he still has the paperwork and receipts since he told me he built it long long time ago, what do I have to look at if I'm buying the motor? Any opinions?
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby yoshimitsuspeed » Sat Jun 13, 2015 9:51 pm

I guess we should have asked for more details but typically 16/20 means 20v pistons on a 16v head. The rest really doesn't matter. Cranks are the same. Rods are dimensionally and functionally the same.
Everything else like oil pumps and whatnot can be switched out.
So yeah IMO you are looking at a 16v that has a notch in the block.
Whether it's worth it does totally depend on who built it and how well it was done though.

Also don't use top color on the 16 valves. It just confuses everyone. Use generation or descriptors such at smallport pistons.

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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Sun Jun 14, 2015 12:16 pm

yoshimitsuspeed wrote:I guess we should have asked for more details but typically 16/20 means 20v pistons on a 16v head. The rest really doesn't matter. Cranks are the same. Rods are dimensionally and functionally the same.
Everything else like oil pumps and whatnot can be switched out.
So yeah IMO you are looking at a 16v that has a notch in the block.
Whether it's worth it does totally depend on who built it and how well it was done though.

Also don't use top color on the 16 valves. It just confuses everyone. Use generation or descriptors such at smallport pistons.


I know thats actually not a real 1620, but with 16v pistons will works better on 16v head doesn't? 20v cranks are lighter right?
This is what he replied me " I've done plenty of research and the guy who helped put this together was a Toyota mechanic and 86 enthusiast himself. He's built Form Atlantic motors and pretty much was my guide with this build ” but it's just what he says who knows...
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby yoshimitsuspeed » Sun Jun 14, 2015 12:59 pm

RLZ wrote:
yoshimitsuspeed wrote:I guess we should have asked for more details but typically 16/20 means 20v pistons on a 16v head. The rest really doesn't matter. Cranks are the same. Rods are dimensionally and functionally the same.
Everything else like oil pumps and whatnot can be switched out.
So yeah IMO you are looking at a 16v that has a notch in the block.
Whether it's worth it does totally depend on who built it and how well it was done though.

Also don't use top color on the 16 valves. It just confuses everyone. Use generation or descriptors such at smallport pistons.


I know thats actually not a real 1620, but with 16v pistons will works better on 16v head doesn't? 20v cranks are lighter right?
This is what he replied me " I've done plenty of research and the guy who helped put this together was a Toyota mechanic and 86 enthusiast himself. He's built Form Atlantic motors and pretty much was my guide with this build ” but it's just what he says who knows...


Cranks are the same. The Blacktop rods are a little lighter than other 20/42 rods but critical dimensions are the same. Like I said you basically have a 16v with a dent in the block.
The longblock may have other things like a blacktop oil pump but if it does just slap a 16v pump on it and you are good to go. Pay attention to all the ancillaries like that as you assemble it to make sure you have the right combination of parts.

Also pay attention to things like FWD vs RWD accessory pulleys. It's also important to pay attention to the crank pulley and timing belt gear. BT crank gear is thicker and the pulley is thinner so they must be run together. You can't run a 16v/ST crank gear with a BT pulley or vice versa.

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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Sun Jun 14, 2015 1:50 pm

yoshimitsuspeed wrote:
RLZ wrote:
yoshimitsuspeed wrote:I guess we should have asked for more details but typically 16/20 means 20v pistons on a 16v head. The rest really doesn't matter. Cranks are the same. Rods are dimensionally and functionally the same.
Everything else like oil pumps and whatnot can be switched out.
So yeah IMO you are looking at a 16v that has a notch in the block.
Whether it's worth it does totally depend on who built it and how well it was done though.

Also don't use top color on the 16 valves. It just confuses everyone. Use generation or descriptors such at smallport pistons.


I know thats actually not a real 1620, but with 16v pistons will works better on 16v head doesn't? 20v cranks are lighter right?
This is what he replied me " I've done plenty of research and the guy who helped put this together was a Toyota mechanic and 86 enthusiast himself. He's built Form Atlantic motors and pretty much was my guide with this build ” but it's just what he says who knows...


Cranks are the same. The Blacktop rods are a little lighter than other 20/42 rods but critical dimensions are the same. Like I said you basically have a 16v with a dent in the block.
The longblock may have other things like a blacktop oil pump but if it does just slap a 16v pump on it and you are good to go. Pay attention to all the ancillaries like that as you assemble it to make sure you have the right combination of parts.

Also pay attention to things like FWD vs RWD accessory pulleys. It's also important to pay attention to the crank pulley and timing belt gear. BT crank gear is thicker and the pulley is thinner so they must be run together. You can't run a 16v/ST crank gear with a BT pulley or vice versa.


Yeah basically it's a 16v just with a 7 ribs block and higher compression. What about the silver crank gear and pulley? I'm not sure it's a silver or black top tho. I tho I have to use all the 16v pulleys. Overall sounds like better get a red top high comp would be easier swap?
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby yoshimitsuspeed » Sun Jun 14, 2015 2:10 pm

RLZ wrote:Yeah basically it's a 16v just with a 7 ribs block and higher compression. What about the silver crank gear and pulley? I'm not sure it's a silver or black top tho. I tho I have to use all the 16v pulleys. Overall sounds like better get a red top high comp would be easier swap?



I will not aknoledge any understanding of red top because people NEED TO STOP USING TOP COLOR ON 16 VALVES.

If you can find a SMALLPORT for a good deal then go for it. The SMALLPORT head is better than the LARGEPORT .


As far as being easier? Maybe a tiny bit but as long as you already have a motor in your car to mix and match parts from it will not be particularly harder to use this motor. Just check everything and if something is different and could be a problem like sensors, coolant pipes etc then take them off your motor and put them on the new motor.

Top color means nothing. Use something useful like generation or proper descriptors of the motor such as 3 rib largeport.

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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Sun Jun 14, 2015 2:33 pm

yoshimitsuspeed wrote:
RLZ wrote:Yeah basically it's a 16v just with a 7 ribs block and higher compression. What about the silver crank gear and pulley? I'm not sure it's a silver or black top tho. I tho I have to use all the 16v pulleys. Overall sounds like better get a red top high comp would be easier swap?



I will not aknoledge any understanding of red top because people NEED TO STOP USING TOP COLOR ON 16 VALVES.

If you can find a SMALLPORT for a good deal then go for it. The SMALLPORT head is better than the LARGEPORT .


As far as being easier? Maybe a tiny bit but as long as you already have a motor in your car to mix and match parts from it will not be particularly harder to use this motor. Just check everything and if something is different and could be a problem like sensors, coolant pipes etc then take them off your motor and put them on the new motor.

Top color means nothing. Use something useful like generation or proper descriptors of the motor such as 3 rib largeport.


Sorry I meant small port high comp. i have stock blue top in my Corolla so I can mix up things to the swap, usually what's the value of a high comp small port? Someone selling a Jdm map high comp on the forum now for $600 include harness and ecu, #4 cylinder low compression maybe due to ring or something else. Is that a good deal? The distributor and injectors are difference from the usdm motors right? I wonder if I get the mapped motor it's hard to find those parts which is only Japan have them, correct me if I'm wrong.
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby oldeskewltoy » Mon Jun 15, 2015 6:59 am

be careful.... smallport needs custom bits to work in longitudinal layout (in a front engine rwd layout)

smallport head is not necessarily better.... smallport heads can have serious port/bowl flaws... as can largport heads. In equal builds, the smallport head does offer a bit higher port velocity allowing for a bit more low end power (low end torque), but the difference becomes negligible as the rpm levels go up.


One more thing... Yoshi.... what did I tell you about criticizing your potential customers.... :roll:
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:11 am

oldeskewltoy wrote:be careful.... smallport needs custom bits to work in longitudinal layout (in a front engine rwd layout)

smallport head is not necessarily better.... smallport heads can have serious port/bowl flaws... as can largport heads. In equal builds, the smallport head does offer a bit higher port velocity allowing for a bit more low end power (low end torque), but the difference becomes negligible as the rpm levels go up.


One more thing... Yoshi.... what did I tell you about criticizing your potential customers.... :roll:


Except the intake manifold needs to be welded or use the adapter on the small port, what else needs to be modified? Can I use the blue top head because it's better flows?
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby saiGone » Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:39 am

If you're going to pay $1600, you myswell have one rebuilt. You won't spend THAT much more and you'll know exactly what is going into it.

Idk i don't trust used "rebuilt" motors
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby yoshimitsuspeed » Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:17 am

oldeskewltoy wrote:be careful.... smallport needs custom bits to work in longitudinal layout (in a front engine rwd layout)

smallport head is not necessarily better.... smallport heads can have serious port/bowl flaws... as can largport heads. In equal builds, the smallport head does offer a bit higher port velocity allowing for a bit more low end power (low end torque), but the difference becomes negligible as the rpm levels go up.


One more thing... Yoshi.... what did I tell you about criticizing your potential customers.... :roll:



And there you go telling me how to conduct my business again.

I'm getting so sick of this top color confusion and dealing with it day in and day out if I loose a customer and gain one more person not using 16v top color it will be worth it.

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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:40 am

saiGone wrote:If you're going to pay $1600, you myswell have one rebuilt. You won't spend THAT much more and you'll know exactly what is going into it.

Idk i don't trust used "rebuilt" motors


$1600 for a rebuilt small port high comp is a good price and its better than rebuilding the big port 16v i think, i know its hard to trust used motors
But what do you guys think rebuilding/building the big port 16v? my goal is get around 140whp, i know its not that easy on an N/A big port 16v tho.
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:44 am

yoshimitsuspeed wrote:
oldeskewltoy wrote:be careful.... smallport needs custom bits to work in longitudinal layout (in a front engine rwd layout)

smallport head is not necessarily better.... smallport heads can have serious port/bowl flaws... as can largport heads. In equal builds, the smallport head does offer a bit higher port velocity allowing for a bit more low end power (low end torque), but the difference becomes negligible as the rpm levels go up.


One more thing... Yoshi.... what did I tell you about criticizing your potential customers.... :roll:



And there you go telling me how to conduct my business again.

I'm getting so sick of this top color confusion and dealing with it day in and day out if I loose a customer and gain one more person not using 16v top color it will be worth it.



haha, from now on i will not say any top colors, how hard to get 130whp~140whp from a big port 16v actually?
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby oldeskewltoy » Mon Jun 15, 2015 5:19 pm

RLZ wrote: how hard to get 130whp~140whp from a big port 16v actually?


Not hard at all. Properly ported head, properly built block with squish set to .8mm, compression 11 to 1, cam 264 type. You should also upgrade injectors.... 240cc should be enough


What is harder is making it emissions compliant... if you need that sort of thing....



Concerning intake solutions for smallport longitudinal installations, the smallport - largeport adapters are not ideal... you will likely lose more making this work, then having the smallport manifold reversed, or "cut and shut" (both methods of changing a smallport intakes T/B opening end). Running ITBs typical loses because the ITBs are very often not properly set causing issues of their own. The ITB adapters, and the smallport-largeport adapters also typically need vertical height adjustment for proper fitment, and optimal flow.

As to costs.... $1600 isn't even close. Excluding paying for port work, the cams, and pistons will run $1200+ and that doesn't include the cost for the main overhaul parts like bearings, gaskets, seals, and machine work.
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby yoshimitsuspeed » Mon Jun 15, 2015 11:25 pm

RLZ wrote:
saiGone wrote:If you're going to pay $1600, you myswell have one rebuilt. You won't spend THAT much more and you'll know exactly what is going into it.

Idk i don't trust used "rebuilt" motors


$1600 for a rebuilt small port high comp is a good price and its better than rebuilding the big port 16v i think, i know its hard to trust used motors
But what do you guys think rebuilding/building the big port 16v? my goal is get around 140whp, i know its not that easy on an N/A big port 16v tho.


140 WHP is easy. But definitely not $1600 easy.

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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby saiGone » Tue Jun 16, 2015 8:12 am

that $1600 Engine for sale also wont be anywhere near 140whp though.

It's basically a rebuilt largeport w. hi comp block. Something he could achieve for around 2k+ his current set-up
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:09 am

oldeskewltoy wrote:
RLZ wrote: how hard to get 130whp~140whp from a big port 16v actually?


Not hard at all. Properly ported head, properly built block with squish set to .8mm, compression 11 to 1, cam 264 type. You should also upgrade injectors.... 240cc should be enough


What is harder is making it emissions compliant... if you need that sort of thing....



Concerning intake solutions for smallport longitudinal installations, the smallport - largeport adapters are not ideal... you will likely lose more making this work, then having the smallport manifold reversed, or "cut and shut" (both methods of changing a smallport intakes T/B opening end). Running ITBs typical loses because the ITBs are very often not properly set causing issues of their own. The ITB adapters, and the smallport-largeport adapters also typically need vertical height adjustment for proper fitment, and optimal flow.


As to costs.... $1600 isn't even close. Excluding paying for port work, the cams, and pistons will run $1200+ and that doesn't include the cost for the main overhaul parts like bearings, gaskets, seals, and machine work.


So from what you said above get the small port manifold rewelded it would be better than a large port manifold on the adapter? From what im understanding the large port manifold has more flow right?
I know for $1600 is far from 140whp probably triple that lol What i heard mapped small ports are around 140hp, is it worth to do the map conversion? since the distributor and some other things are different from the US 4age, and those parts are hard to find i believe.
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RLZ
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby RLZ » Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:12 am

saiGone wrote:that $1600 Engine for sale also wont be anywhere near 140whp though.

It's basically a rebuilt largeport w. hi comp block. Something he could achieve for around 2k+ his current set-up



i know its far from 140whp on that set up but still better than rebuilding the blue top doesnt it?
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby yoshimitsuspeed » Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:42 am

RLZ wrote:
saiGone wrote:that $1600 Engine for sale also wont be anywhere near 140whp though.

It's basically a rebuilt largeport w. hi comp block. Something he could achieve for around 2k+ his current set-up



i know its far from 140whp on that set up but still better than rebuilding the blue top doesnt it?


Better how?
Cheaper maybe.
You would be able to get more power out of your largeport with a proper build but not for $1600.

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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby oldeskewltoy » Tue Jun 16, 2015 10:58 am

RLZ wrote:
So from what you said above get the small port manifold rewelded it would be better than a large port manifold on the adapter? From what im understanding the large port manifold has more flow right?


Incorrect - the largeport shrinks down to pretty small area where it bends from vertical flow to horizontal flow, the smallport manifold is far superior... especially when you are considering an adapter.

RLZ wrote:I know for $1600 is far from 140whp probably triple that lol What i heard mapped small ports are around 140hp, is it worth to do the map conversion? since the distributor and some other things are different from the US 4age, and those parts are hard to find i believe.


the type of management (MAP, AFM, AlphaN, etc.) isn't going to change the engines power*, only the mechanical parts will determine the power. * - Some power can be found with a knowledgeable tuner tuning full engine management, but the basic parameters of the power band are set by the mechanical parts.

The smallport made 130hp, or about 110whp
OST Cyl head porting, - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=300

Building a great engine takes knowing the end... before you begin :ugeek:

Enjoy Life... its the only one you get!

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oldeskewltoy
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Re: 4age 16v head on 20v block? (1620 set up)

Postby oldeskewltoy » Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:05 pm

OST Cyl head porting, - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=300

Building a great engine takes knowing the end... before you begin :ugeek:

Enjoy Life... its the only one you get!

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