FX16 power steering issue looked like it boiled down to just one bad o-ring:

Replaced, running ok. Now it looks like I have an oil leak in the same neighborhood.
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taroroot wrote:Nice job! A OEM spoilertte that's not warped and cracked!
Yup, junkyard find. If I had to do it again, I would have just taken the entire hatch. The OEM spoiler isn't really designed to be removed without breaking a bunch of brittle plastic.
taroroot wrote:Do you have the rear hatch area cover? I recall seeing one picture of someone who still had it. That thing I think is very rare!
Came with the car, but it's kind of falling apart in some spots. It's made of particle board and two metal rails with plastic ends. The particle board is chipping away and the fabric is falling apart. It shouldn't be too hard to refresh.
taroroot wrote:It seems there was more love for these in Australia. Australian company SuperPro makes polyurethane suspension bushings that fit. I just did all front & rear bushings, fit well.
Good to know. I replaced the suspension bushings on my MR2, it really made the car feel tighter.
It's weird how Austrailia mainly got 4-door versions of the AE82.
taroroot wrote:Yeah, those P/S pump like to leak, I just kind ignore it.
Since I was going to do some maintenance stuff anyway, it wasn't too bad to replace the pump and the high pressure line. Maybe cost me $200 in parts via Rock Auto.
taroroot wrote:I just killed the stock engine and am wrapping up a 20V install. Replaced hacked and bent in 16v fuel line to fit the 20v with Russel line. Pretty bling. I got the kit made for Honda Civic that had one 90 bend on one side. It has the correct size banjo adapters, but the hose was about an inch short. Went to local speed shop and bought more Russell hose. I know I was able to get OEM Toyota engine mounts, but that was a while ago. I've since gone to a solid steel welded rear mount. 3M Window weld single part polyurethane to fill fron mount does not last under hard driving.
I'm running a KAAZ 1.5 LSD which is awesome for dirt, I think its one of the biggest upgrades for that. But on street and on autocross I tried it once its kinda tricky and weird feeling. Kinda reverse torque steer. Coming out of a turn and you give it gas, the wheel wrenches in your hand trying to go straight.
I just got a lithium starter battery. Its pretty amazing how tiny and light it is. Replacing the DieHard platinum I relocated to rear prob dropped over 40 pounds in one step!
They don't inspect here, I've gotten rid of emissions devices. I only drive this at events anyway. That cleans up the bay quite a bit and allows use of easily found silicone hose for the intake. I got mine from Pegasus.
Just bought a new K&N cone intake filter to replace the generic knock off. I think that contributed to the death of my engine. When I blew air through it, just as much dust came out the inside as outside. Since I'm using it in dirt, I also got the filter for the filter foam wrap stuff.
20v... jealous. California emissions laws make swaps kinda rough and I'm lame mechanic who can't weld.
It sounds like you've got a pretty nice FX setup. What did you do for suspension? Have any photos or a build thread?
oldae82 wrote:you Californians have the only good fxs around. Makes me cuss and stamp my feet in sheer envy.
Yeah, anyone who has to deal with rust would be shocked at the cars that show up in Cali junkyards.
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Installed new pads and rotors today. Autozone rotors, Hawk HPS HB191F.590 pads front... HB203F.550 did not fit in the rear:

HB401F.587 might be the next part number I try. Autozone had some cheap pads in stock for $20, so I installed those for the meantime, part # D352. I'll have to measure the old ones up and see what'll work.