Things I should know about the FX16?

[Skaughtto]

I bought a 1987 FX16 GT-S this week while my 1986 MR2 is down with some wiring issues(waiting for parts to arrive). Anything big I should know about the car? Tips? Best upgrades?

It seems like parts may be harder to find than I first expected. 4AG stuff is out there of course, but it looks like FX pieces are specialized. There are two FXs at nearby junkyards that I'm going to yank parts off of this weekend - anything I should keep an eye out for?





w/junkyard trim & tail lights:



Found a gauge cluster, cluster surround, fuel sending unit, and turn signal stalk. I think I need the signal stalk with cruise control parts on it though, which is probably really hard to find since it was optional.

[oldae82]

Whenever you see an fx16, grab whatever you can. I have a shed full of parts, most of which I'll probably never use, but hey . . . Mine, which I've had for 12 years, is starting to be a hassle in major parts. Recently needed a rf axle shaft- the part identified as such by NAPA, Advance and O'reilly's was not right. Finally got a shop to fit a cv joint in it. Broke a parking brake cable- took the original and two wrong but different cables to assemble a new one, with the help of a shop to swedge the end fitting. I love the car, but now rust,on a N.C. body, is starting to be noticeable. I've pulled off the little rock guards behind the front and rear wheel wells and tossed them, since they're holders of corrosive agents. It is the original SUV, and I don't know where I'm going to go when I have to give this one up.

[taroroot]

Mine is now a rally-cross vehicle and its awesome fun!
The FX16 specific stuff that is different from a regular FX. Rear struts, rear discs. Front struts. The 4AGE bits of course. The CV shafts are mislisted in most of the parts replacement catalogs. I think if you get the ones listed for the diesel it matches. Best bet to take originals and make sure they match. I eventually ended up having a set custom made using original OEM end from a AE92 as the aftermarket replacements are not as strong. I snapped a couple shafts before going the high strength custom shafts.
Later bigger AE92 front rotor, caliper bolts on if you remove dust shield.
The front headlight bracket has a ball joint that will/is broken. I use a ziptie to hold it together. Every one I seen is cracked.
Grab door hinges, I recall taking a hinge from opposite side and flipping it around to help saggy door.
Rust is the demon. Roof rust in the corners is especially evil and sunroof does not help. Theres pieces of foam wedged into the corners of the roof that can act as moisture condensation holders.
Watch the transmission, with their age they get worn. The AW11 transaxle is actually exactly the same except the shifter shaft comes out the other side. I've rebuilt mine using the guts from a AW11 transaxle.
In a pinch you can put in a transaxle from regular 4AC corolla but gearing is tall.
Grab those light clusters. Watch out for rusting light sockets and bad grounds causing funky lights.

[Skaughtto]

Whenever you see an fx16, grab whatever you can. I have a shed full of parts, most of which I'll probably never use, but hey . . . Mine, which I've had for 12 years, is starting to be a hassle in major parts. Recently needed a rf axle shaft- the part identified as such by NAPA, Advance and O'reilly's was not right. Finally got a shop to fit a cv joint in it. Broke a parking brake cable- took the original and two wrong but different cables to assemble a new one, with the help of a shop to swedge the end fitting. I love the car, but now rust,on a N.C. body, is starting to be noticeable. I've pulled off the little rock guards behind the front and rear wheel wells and tossed them, since they're holders of corrosive agents. It is the original SUV, and I don't know where I'm going to go when I have to give this one up.

Good advice. I've grabbed some stuff from local junkyards, but I haven't started hoarding parts... yet. It's amazing how many simple parts are discontinued. I got really lucky and found some radio brackets on a junkyard car. Still missing a battery rod+clamp and I need to find a turn signal stalk with cruise control options.

Mine is now a rally-cross vehicle and its awesome fun!
The FX16 specific stuff that is different from a regular FX. Rear struts, rear discs. Front struts. The 4AGE bits of course. The CV shafts are mislisted in most of the parts replacement catalogs. I think if you get the ones listed for the diesel it matches. Best bet to take originals and make sure they match. I eventually ended up having a set custom made using original OEM end from a AE92 as the aftermarket replacements are not as strong. I snapped a couple shafts before going the high strength custom shafts.
Later bigger AE92 front rotor, caliper bolts on if you remove dust shield.
The front headlight bracket has a ball joint that will/is broken. I use a ziptie to hold it together. Every one I seen is cracked.
Grab door hinges, I recall taking a hinge from opposite side and flipping it around to help saggy door.
Rust is the demon. Roof rust in the corners is especially evil and sunroof does not help. Theres pieces of foam wedged into the corners of the roof that can act as moisture condensation holders.
Watch the transmission, with their age they get worn. The AW11 transaxle is actually exactly the same except the shifter shaft comes out the other side. I've rebuilt mine using the guts from a AW11 transaxle.
In a pinch you can put in a transaxle from regular 4AC corolla but gearing is tall.
Grab those light clusters. Watch out for rusting light sockets and bad grounds causing funky lights.

Your experiences are pretty spot on:
- One of my headlight bracket ball joints was completely broken, the other is most likely cracked.
- My doors just kinda fly open. There doesn't seem to be a place where they stay put.
- I can see evidence of some small rust spots, but luckily nothing major. (California)
- I already soldered one bad ground in my tail lights.

---

I've had the car for about two months now and it's been good. Most of my time has been spent repairing small items.... soldered a number of wires that were loosely connected, repaired the trip odometer, replaced cracked interior trim, installed new hatch lift supports, re-aligned the NRG quick release hub, put in an old Kenwood head unit, vacuumed, changed the oil, removed the AC compressor, replaced the tail lights(cracked).

I need to rebuild the distributor and put in some front and rear motor mounts. Later I'll get it caught up on some of the major maintenance items.

Where's the best forum to post a WTB thread if I'm looking for parts? I've been trying to create an account on ae82.net for a while, but it keeps giving me an error.

[Skaughtto]

Replaced:
Sunroof cables (junkyard)
Spoiler (junkyard)
AC compressor (junkyard)
Windshield wiper motor (junkyard)
Turn signal stalk (car-part.com)
Toyota grille emblem (club4ag forum member)
Rota Flight Wheels 15x6.5 +40mm (craigslist)

During:


After:


---







dat sunroof fitment


dat oem spoiler







---

Before:


During:


After:


Replaced:
water pump
thermostat
timing belt
timing belt tensioner
cam shaft seals
crank shaft seal
power steering pump
power steering hoses (used)
power steering pressure hose
distributor (rebuilt)
distributor cap, rotor
spark plugs
radiator
valve cover gaskets

The new pump is leaking out the back(I stuck a paper towel there):



Bought a new o-ring and snap ring from Toyota in hopes they'll stop the leak(already tried 12oz of Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak).



44330C
RING, SNAP(FOR FLOW CONTROL VALVE); RING, SNAP(FOR PRESSURE CONTROL RELIEF VALVE)
Part Number# 9615101700

44343A
RING, O(FOR FLOW CONTROL SPRING SEAT);
Part Number# 9671119014

Waiting for tiny parts...

[sirdeuce]

Things you should know about the AE82/FX16. One thing I found out is the brakes are cross biased. Brake circuits are not front/rear but left front and right rear and right front and left rear. It's weird I know, but it's a safety thing they built in.

[taroroot]

Nice job! A OEM spoilertte that's not warped and cracked! I think cross biased brakes are the norm now? Do you have the rear hatch area cover? I recall seeing one picture of someone who still had it. That thing I think is very rare!
It seems there was more love for these in Australia. Australian company SuperPro makes polyurethane suspension bushings that fit. I just did all front & rear bushings, fit well.
Yeah, those P/S pump like to leak, I just kind ignore it.
Clutch you should no prob finding replacement, you can get anything from stock to multiplate setups. I'm currently running a Exedy flywheel/clutch combo that's listed in catalogs for the last gen Celica or MR-S.
I just killed the stock engine and am wrapping up a 20V install. Replaced hacked and bent in 16v fuel line to fit the 20v with Russel line. Pretty bling. I got the kit made for Honda Civic that had one 90 bend on one side. It has the correct size banjo adapters, but the hose was about an inch short. Went to local speed shop and bought more Russell hose.
I know I was able to get OEM Toyota engine mounts, but that was a while ago. I've since gone to a solid steel welded rear mount. 3M Window weld single part polyurethane to fill fron mount does not last under hard driving.
I'm running a KAAZ 1.5 LSD which is awesome for dirt, I think its one of the biggest upgrades for that. But on street and on autocross I tried it once its kinda tricky and weird feeling. Kinda reverse torque steer. Coming out of a turn and you give it gas, the wheel wrenches in your hand trying to go straight.
I just got a lithium starter battery. Its pretty amazing how tiny and light it is. Replacing the DieHard platinum I relocated to rear prob dropped over 40 pounds in one step!
They don't inspect here, I've gotten rid of emissions devices. I only drive this at events anyway. That cleans up the bay quite a bit and allows use of easily found silicone hose for the intake. I got mine from Pegasus.
Just bought a new K&N cone intake filter to replace the generic knock off. I think that contributed to the death of my engine. When I blew air through it, just as much dust came out the inside as outside. Since I'm using it in dirt, I also got the filter for the filter foam wrap stuff.

[oldae82]

you Californians have the only good fxs around. Makes me cuss and stamp my feet in sheer envy.

[Skaughtto]

FX16 power steering issue looked like it boiled down to just one bad o-ring:



Replaced, running ok. Now it looks like I have an oil leak in the same neighborhood.

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Nice job! A OEM spoilertte that's not warped and cracked!

Yup, junkyard find. If I had to do it again, I would have just taken the entire hatch. The OEM spoiler isn't really designed to be removed without breaking a bunch of brittle plastic.

Do you have the rear hatch area cover? I recall seeing one picture of someone who still had it. That thing I think is very rare!

Came with the car, but it's kind of falling apart in some spots. It's made of particle board and two metal rails with plastic ends. The particle board is chipping away and the fabric is falling apart. It shouldn't be too hard to refresh.

It seems there was more love for these in Australia. Australian company SuperPro makes polyurethane suspension bushings that fit. I just did all front & rear bushings, fit well.

Good to know. I replaced the suspension bushings on my MR2, it really made the car feel tighter.

It's weird how Austrailia mainly got 4-door versions of the AE82.

Yeah, those P/S pump like to leak, I just kind ignore it.

Since I was going to do some maintenance stuff anyway, it wasn't too bad to replace the pump and the high pressure line. Maybe cost me $200 in parts via Rock Auto.

I just killed the stock engine and am wrapping up a 20V install. Replaced hacked and bent in 16v fuel line to fit the 20v with Russel line. Pretty bling. I got the kit made for Honda Civic that had one 90 bend on one side. It has the correct size banjo adapters, but the hose was about an inch short. Went to local speed shop and bought more Russell hose. I know I was able to get OEM Toyota engine mounts, but that was a while ago. I've since gone to a solid steel welded rear mount. 3M Window weld single part polyurethane to fill fron mount does not last under hard driving.
I'm running a KAAZ 1.5 LSD which is awesome for dirt, I think its one of the biggest upgrades for that. But on street and on autocross I tried it once its kinda tricky and weird feeling. Kinda reverse torque steer. Coming out of a turn and you give it gas, the wheel wrenches in your hand trying to go straight.
I just got a lithium starter battery. Its pretty amazing how tiny and light it is. Replacing the DieHard platinum I relocated to rear prob dropped over 40 pounds in one step!
They don't inspect here, I've gotten rid of emissions devices. I only drive this at events anyway. That cleans up the bay quite a bit and allows use of easily found silicone hose for the intake. I got mine from Pegasus.
Just bought a new K&N cone intake filter to replace the generic knock off. I think that contributed to the death of my engine. When I blew air through it, just as much dust came out the inside as outside. Since I'm using it in dirt, I also got the filter for the filter foam wrap stuff.

20v... jealous. California emissions laws make swaps kinda rough and I'm lame mechanic who can't weld.

It sounds like you've got a pretty nice FX setup. What did you do for suspension? Have any photos or a build thread?

you Californians have the only good fxs around. Makes me cuss and stamp my feet in sheer envy.

Yeah, anyone who has to deal with rust would be shocked at the cars that show up in Cali junkyards.

---

Installed new pads and rotors today. Autozone rotors, Hawk HPS HB191F.590 pads front... HB203F.550 did not fit in the rear:



HB401F.587 might be the next part number I try. Autozone had some cheap pads in stock for $20, so I installed those for the meantime, part # D352. I'll have to measure the old ones up and see what'll work.

[taroroot]

20v... jealous. California emissions laws make swaps kinda rough and I'm lame mechanic who can't weld.

It sounds like you've got a pretty nice FX setup. What did you do for suspension? Have any photos or a build thread?

you Californians have the only good fxs around. Makes me cuss and stamp my feet in sheer envy.

Yeah, anyone who has to deal with rust would be shocked at the cars that show up in Cali junkyards.

Nevada has awesome FX16's, that's where one of mine came from.

Suspension I'm running Koni inserts that were listed under Corolla GTi. Front fits the FX16 OEM strut case, the rear I had to source a later AE92 GTS OEM strut and cut it open. Then modify the lower mount holes by having a machine shop drill new hole. Unfortunately it had too little metal on one edge and it tore through. I had thick plates with the matching holes made and welded them on, and while I was at it installed a camber cam bolt setup on it. I forgot the name of the company but its a pretty nice setup. It uses a bolt with eccentric cam setup kinda like the rear toe setup that is a lot nicer than the other aftermarket solution of narrower bolt with a cam lobe on it. The springs are hard to find TRD springs for the FX16. I'm thinking of getting the Ground Control conversion kit though so I can run custom rate and length. I want it back at stock height with not as high a rate. Right now it drops about 1 inch or so and higher rate good for asphalt.

I don't have a dedicated build thread, but have a blog at studionewmedia.com that I post up about working on it at times.

You should learn to weld, it's not that hard to do simple stuff. It's pretty satisfying to fabricate simple mounts. I made some for intake manifold brace, exhaust brace, made the solid engine mount. Also did my rear battery box. Zapped together quick stuff like tacking together 16v and 20v ECU bracket to fit the 20v ECU in same spot as 16v.

[Skaughtto]

Your blog is pretty amazing. I haven't seen many people put that much work into an FX16. The struts on mine are pretty worn out, so I need to refresh the suspension soon. The Koni + Ground Control setup makes sense for a lot of cars. Finding the right lowering spring is really hit or miss.

Did you take a welding class or just buy the equipment and go? Most people I talk to say, "If you want to be a welder, buy the gear and weld." I really need to get into it sometime. My ultimate dream is to build a Locost Lotus Super 7 replica.

---

More work done this weekend: HB401F.587 rear pads fit perfectly, oil change, removed the NRG quick release, installed a Nardi hub and Snap Off quick release:





The FX16 is probably going on the back burner for a few weekends while I replace the valve seals on my AW11 and get my SW20 back on the road for my niece or Craigslist.

---

Replaced one oil cooler line that was loose, a clamp on it had failed. Put on the underbody panels, so quiet now.

[taroroot]

Bought the equipment and go! Read up on internet. Get together with friends and do a bunch of projects and learn as you go along. I wouldn't trust myself to do critical structural welds though. Its been mostly body work, little brackets. Taking classes would be the way to go if you want to become really proficient. I started with a stick buzzbox welder and fixed mask. Do yourself a favor and start with a wirefeed, or at the least get an autodarkening helmet.

I'm getting ready to tear down the 20V I just installed. Its not running as well as it should so I'm probably going to take it to machine shop for rebuild. Debating how much to do on it.

[Skaughtto]

I now have power windows and door locks... in my trunk:

[oldae82]

Are those front rotors you're showing? Solid, not vented?

[Skaughtto]

They were rears.

[oldae82]

Gotcha'. I saw one fx16 in a junkyard, and now I can't remember if it was a gts, that had solid front discs, and I wondered if it was a production change. As light as the car is, I don't see why a solid disc would be detrimental, and it should be lighter.

[taroroot]

Gotcha'. I saw one fx16 in a junkyard, and now I can't remember if it was a gts, that had solid front discs, and I wondered if it was a production change. As light as the car is, I don't see why a solid disc would be detrimental, and it should be lighter.

I think that might have been a regular FX? if it has rear discs then its a FX16 and those front must have been some crappy aftermarket replacement, but I think regular FX might have been solid fronts.

Wow, factory power window and door locks? Nice. I'm kind going opposite and stripping mine down since the engine swap puts me into mod class anyway. I got halfway through event with the fresh rebuilt 20v. I went new oversize OEM pistons, block bored to match, new bearings all around, ARP main studs, rod bolts, head studs, balanced. New valve guide seals. OEM headgasket, new oil pump. Was running great, and then I broke one of my Driveshaft Shop shafts! They're being awesome and getting me a replacement end though.
I think one of my Koni's has gotten messed up, it ingested part of the boot.
I wouldn't mind the factory power lock, mine has aftermarket solenoids, which is always a hack. but somewhere in linkages is messed up as the lock mech doesn't work right on one side anyway.
The rust has suddenly gotten bad. I'm gong to have to address it soon.

[Skaughtto]

Wow, factory power window and door locks? Nice. I'm kind going opposite and stripping mine down since the engine swap puts me into mod class anyway. I got halfway through event with the fresh rebuilt 20v. I went new oversize OEM pistons, block bored to match, new bearings all around, ARP main studs, rod bolts, head studs, balanced. New valve guide seals. OEM headgasket, new oil pump. Was running great, and then I broke one of my Driveshaft Shop shafts! They're being awesome and getting me a replacement end though.
I think one of my Koni's has gotten messed up, it ingested part of the boot.
I wouldn't mind the factory power lock, mine has aftermarket solenoids, which is always a hack. but somewhere in linkages is messed up as the lock mech doesn't work right on one side anyway.
The rust has suddenly gotten bad. I'm gong to have to address it soon.

Yours is definitely a much more exciting car. Mine is just a commuter that I try to keep running and comfortable. Koni struts are still a part of the plan though... my suspension is super old and worn.

---

Few more updates:

I was using some LED headlights that I bought from Amazon for a couple months, but have since removed them. There was just no cut off and light was everywhere on the road without any focus on where it needed to be. If you're thinking about getting them, don't. They aren't the solution for improving visibility.

---



Failed smog, installed a new cat, then passed smog (results above).

My dad and I had to use a grinder on the sides of the flanges on the Walker cat. It didn't fit right out of the box into the odd cradle near the b-pipe. The cat also didn't accommodate the previous o-ring type gaskets, so luckily I had bought the other style from Rock Auto.

---



Still has a few leaks, still needs new suspension, but it still gets me back and forth from work each day...

[CloudStrife]

LOL, I see you mounted the microphone on the steering column.

I always wire my stereo properly, and cleanly route the mic just like you did. However, I thought on the 86 it would be useless for phone calls with people talking to me and in the background they hear "Yeah so anyway... brrrrrr----brrrrr-bbbRAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH... Sorry, just passing someone; anyway.....".

I really like your build thread, from my experience these things are always trashed which is why I never buy them. There are always a few clean ones on your coast though. California and Nevada have all the clean 4AG chassis it seems .

Sorry about smog, it's the main reason I won't live in cali. In Oregon and Washington you rarely fail emissions test, and when you do there are ways of beating the system. When I was in Hawaii (where they have very strict rules), I always had a "hookup" shop when I had messy Hondas running rich.

Keep up the good work, I love the build thread. Your interior looks really clean. I honestly always thought the FX16 interior looked better than the 86; even the GTS.

[taroroot]

Sorry about smog, it's the main reason I won't live in cali. In Oregon and Washington you rarely fail emissions test, and when you do there are ways of beating the system. When I was in Hawaii (where they have very strict rules), I always had a "hookup" shop when I had messy Hondas running rich.

Huh? I'm on Oahu and emissions is loose here, no testing, no visual. There is recon, which can be a PIA. That's concerned mainly with suspension and chassis mods. So I run 20v with no charcoal canister, no EGR and they don't care. I do have a cat, though it could be gutted and they wouldn't know.

[CloudStrife]

Hey Taro,

I was referring to safety, not emissions for Oahu. And yeah, if you are trying to get Recon (which all my cars needed) it was ridiculous. I guess because I had gauges and dressed like a beach bum I got the BRADAH hookup haha.

I've seen your threads and gone through your pictures, you have a great build! Was it you that had a custom CA intake with your friend's artwork on the box? It looks really nice.

And I appreciate all the info you posted in the EGR delete thread. Your responses were pretty much all that made sense lol.

[Skaughtto]

Swapped my rear tail lights with another set I had hanging around. One was brighter than the other, but it wasn't caused by anything electrical. The right one had a bunch of rust coating the interior. When I wiped the rust away, I also wiped away the reflective silver paint on the inside... so the issue persisted. It would be fun to use a heat gun to remove the lenses, but I've got other projects to work on first.

---

Rock Auto & Ground Control shipped fast:



KYB 232030 (2)
KYB SM5069 (2)
KYB SB117 (2)
KYB 365041 (2)
KYB SM5019 (2)
KYB SB101 (2)

Ground Control coils are 300 front and 200 rear.

---

AC service ports on my car look like they are both 7/16. I'll try recharging the system during the summer.

---

Built a new trunk privacy cover:





Painted with black primer, covered the metal tabs with gorilla tape, and adhered the gray felt with some Loctite spray. Wife says the cover looks good and makes the whole interior look worse by comparison I still have to string it up with some cord or shoe laces.

[Rogue-AE95]

Nice work on the cargo cover!

[taroroot]

You still around? I'm curious about your suspension, howd it work out?

Update on my FX16, I cannot recommend welding your engine mount solid. I did it because the stock rubber kept tearing. Making it solid created more problems, eventually cracked my bellhousing and snapped bolt in it. Had to take it to machine shop to repair since all the other bellhousings I had didn't have the intake side starter hump. I just got done fabricating a mount using polyurethane bushing and tubing for the front and rear. I changed out the bracket to a junkyard one I had because it got bent too and even after the bellhousing repair and I bolted it together, it started coming loose because the bracket was not sitting flat on the mounting surface.
My driver side top mount OEM rubber one is tearing too, that one I might try finding OEM since it doesn't see as much stress as the front and rears. I think it tore as much from getting torqued around when dropping the transaxle multiple times as anything else.
Experiencing engine driveability problems, trying to figure out if its ECU. Last event it stalled out, and the fuel pump suddenly got noisy. Was able to eventually get it running and got home. Denso pump is on order. ALso changed out the AFM, I was using the old 4AGE one which I found out is not correct for 20V. Trying a Camry one, some people say it works, though I can't find definite ohm measurements for the 20V AFM to compare. I also hear what might be the VVT "click of death". I really want this to work, the car is a beast at WOT and when the revs hit the upper band! Might eventually go standalone, that'll get rid of AFM

[Skaughtto]

Still around.

I bought new front and rear motor mounts via Rock Auto, but haven't installed them yet. I've seen people make their own, but I need to read up on it more and see what works. There were some AW11 guys for a while who were pointing the finger at stiffer polyurethane mounts causing chassis problems for a while.

I don't have my own garage, so I have to drive a little ways to work on my cars, which slows me down... and I'm already a pretty slow fair-weather mechanic. Suspension still needs to be installed - looks nice in boxes. Lately I've just been getting coffee in the morning, putting a few things back together on my AW11 and going back home.

[buffalohunter7321]

Hi;
Was wondering if I could possibly ask you a big favor!

I was rear ended on the 26th of April and I am in need of lots of body parts. But the one I need the most is the tail light lens's. Could you get a Phone # for me of one of the Junkyards that have these FX16's so as I could get a hold of them to see if I can purchase some parts from them? Thanks

[Skaughtto]

Hi;
Was wondering if I could possibly ask you a big favor!

I was rear ended on the 26th of April and I am in need of lots of body parts. But the one I need the most is the tail light lens's. Could you get a Phone # for me of one of the Junkyards that have these FX16's so as I could get a hold of them to see if I can purchase some parts from them? Thanks

I get most of my used parts via craigslist, row52.com and car-part.com